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I’m thinking I need a big red holy f#@k button, because everybody else has one...

Say what now?

Nice. I just broke mine. (Glass)

I would keep the length as well, but it really comes down to putting the collection point at a comfortable elevation. You know, so you don’t have to get on the floor to change jars.

I mean, what are the so called reasons a thumper should be smaller than the boiler?

My steam rig ran just fine with the opposite. Smaller boiler and larger thumper. Depends on what your doing.

Hilltop wrote:I've never heard of using a thumper the same size as the boiler, I'm sure someone can explain it better than me, but thumpers are smaller for a reason. Generally no more than half your boiler size or close to that.....

What would the reasons be?

Wow. A lot to take in.

Stands to reason though. A lot of my ferments end up on the low ph side when done. So why wouldn’t the tails be low in ph?

On a side note, a high ph could burn too right?

If rad were here he would say it’s a bokakob not a bokabob,

I think corene has it. A little sacrificial malt to thin the corn goo... Nowadays the high temp enzymes are the ticket for that.

Ouch!

My condolences.

spyked wrote:maybe its overkill. but its been modeled.

Oh! I get it now. Nice rendering.

Maybe you could run real slow and be ok on the undersized tubing/thumper/flake stand.

But why? Upsize and be happy...

Safer too.

Pictures of your setup?

Best start thinking modular.

If you want a CM, that’s cool. The bad rap came from that original through tube design you were looking at first.

If it’s your first still I’d go with CCVM but start out just running pot still mode (top capped off)

shadylane wrote:One of us needs to experiment, on how much pressure it takes to pop a lightly seated cork

Your the one with the manometer...

Thanks for volunteering

Nah, I don’t think I would go with that. Keep checking out idea’s.

The thru tube in the lower part of the column is a known short coming of that CM design.

Your not the first and won’t be the last...

Rye’s a bitch sometimes

Maybe he meant ‘fractioning’ column...?

I always had a PH crash on sugar washes. Something to do with my water.. maybe. So what worked for me is a good strong yeast colony to start with (yeast bomb), some PH buffering (shells of some sort), and a reasonable starting gravity. You can get the fermentation time down to a few days. But why be...

..off topic..

Glad to see you are posting again der wo

...as in the yeast produce CO2 as a byproduct and it hangs out on top of the ferment...keeping some of the nasty’s at bay. Pretty dang cool, actually.

So... why not pick a tried and true... and follow it to the T

Jump in and do your own experiments.

I started out paranoid I was going to get an infection if I didn’t use an airlock. Now I only use one when I think it will be sitting around for a while.

+1

DADY

How did you manage to get 4 - 1/2” inside a 1-1/2” pipe?

There are some steam threads around here somewhere. Doesn’t have to be that complicated but if math is your thing then go for it.

Basically though, it’s just a thumper being driven by a boiler filled with water instead of mash.

Are there any precautions I should take with the slop? I watched a vid about reusing beer yeast and the guy was taking great care not to let the slop have access to air I've found that you don't have to go crazy with sanitation and what not. Your not making beer or yeast harvesting in the tradition...

... so going deeper into tails will give more flavor. Maybe too much so that you get some funky flavors... when aged those flavors turn into complexity or character or whatever you want to call it.

But for drinking young less tails can make a less funky young whiskey... or something like that.

Just gotta say you guys are doing a great job on the Wiki!

HD google yeast starter and yeast bomb. All the info you could ever want is already here.

You can recycle yeast for a long time if you take care of it. UJSSM is the perfect example.