Home Distiller

soooooo using a tortilla shell will cause that corrosion???

you can use LA-CO Aluminum Flux for copper to aluminum for some thing like soldering the a worm to the pot...But as the others stated for a boiler s.s or copper should really be used... here the link for the flux, available at most welding shops...http://www.ati-intl.com/alumsold.htm" onclick=&...

might work for steam injection, but I would not use these items in a pressure situation....

Seems that someway to harness solar energy into heating the boiler would help....Solar steam/super heated water generator would work well for something like this...After all if it takes fossil energy to make "green" energy that seems to defeat the purpose...

I ran my glass column up to 212F for an hour on the cleaning run and it held up fine...Borsoloite is made for high temperature waste and vent in a lab setting....Just need to make sure you make provisions for a small amount of expansion that does take place. I used thick cork gaskets on the end of t...

Here's a glass column ponu I made a while back...Did not have any issues....It was rather nice to be able to physically see the head shots taper into the hearts...I used cork gaskets to allow for any expansion between the plates....Glass is indeed nice, easy to clean and makes watching more interest...

I like the S.S...how did you bend your tubing???? That shit is a pain to coil up....

The little guy on the left (spirit still) is built pretty much like a copper glass pack you would stick on a car...I had a bunch of reducers in the vapor patch and a crappy condenser on it before. Cut out all the reducers and built the new condenser...it works well, did a run Sunday and it ran right...

welcome aboard BC, good to have ya here..I too am a fellow plumber, my ass don't hang out so I'm not quite 100% ...

"I will solder in a copper coupler in the mouth"

you do not read stuff like that every day...

You can use a 3" tri clamp flange and tri-clamp cap....Drill a 2" hole into the cap (or whatever OD the pipe is your using), slide pipe to desire length and solder the cap to the pipe...Now you can pull the thing out with the ease of pulling a tri fitting clamp...I did the same on one of m...

Piece of industrial wax paper cut to fit inside the lid would work, then the lid and all are covered and leak proof...just a thought

I like how the 45's are placed, the offset looks to balance the weight out nicely....

I know the feeling....I walk around day to day with still designs running through my head....

It would be beneficial to solder that joint in suspension....using a vise, jack stands, fire bricks ect... That concrete floor is a huge heat sink that and it would give you access to the opposite side of the joint to heat from (keeping the flame from directly coming in contact with the flux).... Th...

piece of unistrut and some pipe clamps works very well....can remove it when your not using it as well....

Been neglecting my spirits still...so I did some upgrades today....Got a new boiler attached (well, my old 8 gallon i used to use for my first ponu's),and got rid of the old coffee pot, all new packing, and a new condenser....kinda cut a bunch of shit out I didn't need anymore and simplified it up.....

I tin all brass surfaces if i install brass any on a build.....


http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopi ... s#p6959882" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

Can't tell if that is copper to stainless or copper to copper....Besides that, the heat required to solder is all the same, usually around 450F or so for soft solder. (more silver in it the higher the temp needed). It's the flux and joint preparation that makes or breaks the deal...If your doing cop...

drive by your distillery every day...like the non aged corn mash you guys run down there.....

hooked on steam myself here......the ONLY way to go....

Here we go, got a super sized cardboard telfon wrapped gasket with the ol' flour paste and some turn buckle tie downs..

As well one of these is always handy....Officially ready to go...T minus 24 hours....

Here's the parrot...went a little outside the norm on this one...When I get my scanner working I will post a better vapor/liquid path...

hmmm, not sure if 5" is enough to cool down a 1/2" pipe...

aluminum oxidizes....have to dip it in an anti oxidation paste before cranking down those lug bolts...

$ 165.50 so far

you talking about fitting allowance???? or total length???or do you want to know socket depth on the 4" side???

so the general consensus here is giver her a good squirt of O2 at the beginning and then let it sail on.....

I am curious about this as well. Seems a guy could set up a very low pressure hose with a needle valve and inject O2 at a very low rate to assist the yeast.....I am thinking a drop tube into the wash (ferment vessel) and letting it "percolate" at a rate of a couple bubbles every ten second...