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disregard my post i thought you were talking about a pot still

whats the shotgun going on top of ?

a VM a LM or ?

how tall is the reflux column etc ?

yours should knock down a lot of heat

i have 5 X 1/2" in a 2" and it can handle 3600w stripping it would be about 2 feet long or so
it pretty much comes of the keg into 135" bend direct into the shotgun

i just put a little SS scrubber up each tube to help break up the vapor flow

if using SS bolts you can wrap the ends in ptfe and pull them through and tighten up.

i have something on a keg done this way and it has never leaked in years of use

bit dodgy but it works

Please forgive my ignorance but will the above link for the SSR allow me to adjust the voltage output(and by extension the heat applied to the wash) when attached properly and with the potentiometer I have? Still looking for an answer to that questions. Is there anything else I can do with the inco...

The threaded inside part ...does anyone know what size thread that might be?. I have a keg like that and was wondering if that thread was anywhere close to american size. I might could thread a spmething like that on my big lathe if I knew what it was. Bent here's a neat trick i used on 2" pip...

glad i could help and here's a bit extra (not sure if you forgot) some of the A types have a locking system on the spear that stops you just using the punch and turning them out (after de-gasing) you will get them "loose" but they will still be locked and wont lift out as there is a little...

yep your on the right track

give it a good scrub before the cleaning runs in hot water to help

citric acid powder from the baking goods area in a hot water and soak also cleans copper nicely as well before your cleaning runs
and it's a very "safe" acid

if "small" scrubbers i reckon about 10 if the big ones maybe 8 just depends on the scrubber

just begin with poking them in with a broom handle etc and see how many you need
you can always grab a few more and poke a bit harder

and what you have the tools to work with makes a part of the decision.

for me i can work copper with easier than SS

i just drill insert and solder for my own stuff

but if building for others i brace it internally or externally
depends on the situation (mostly in case they drop it)

http://www.geordi.com.au/ferrule%20dimensions.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

if you look at the link you can see a 50.6mm pipe requires a 64mm OD clamp (the OD of the ferrule)

same goes for the A type kegs and 2" pipe (in Australia anyway)



see thread
http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopi ... heel+spear

Usge wrote:That would work too...so long as you never wanted to remove your condenser or take them apart.

cut a short bit off the standard 1/2 inch and join it to the "wrong" 1/2 inch using the swage method

use that area as the "join"

vice grips x 4 ?

not that i would do it...

not all the heads will be in the 1st jar

i often dump the 1st 3 250ml cuts and some fores

IMO it depends on multiple issues along with your sense of smell and what you consider good product

looks good

do you have a valve on the output ?

i would allow about 350mm for the head and coil 250mm for the coil and 100mm for the plates but i would not cut the pipe, just cut in the plates as you can pull out the packing using a bit of wire bent into a hook on the end the "probe" extender tube will work but i would give it a little ...

i would collect the 1st 500ml in 100ml cuts (maybe the 1st 1000ml) and keep them all separate to sniff it should really show you the differences in head -> hearts quite well once you can sniff way back when i began i wish i knew about cuts.... I collect heads portion without the parrot. Then place i...

well your not the 1st to do it.... http://www.thestranger.com/binary/4d68/DRUNK-160-2.jpg http://www.thestranger.com/seattle/Content?oid=23562" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow http://www.thestranger.com/seattle/content?oid=23587" onclick="wi...

frozenthunderbolt wrote:Both of the last to posts are too high in sugar 4KG per 20L max 3.5 is better

we are talking 25L mate... 5 in 25L is fine (1kg per 5L give or take )

even your 4 in 20 is 1kg per 5L....

for 25L

i use 5kg sugar
1 lemon juice
1 plastic tub of Tpaste
1 pinch of epsom salts
roughly 1/2 cup "scoop" of lowans yeast (the one your talking about)

i would add the teflon

then it will be problem solved

you should be able to but it would be tight if it is no longer than 12" i allow 200-250mm for the coil you might be better of doing a "double cup reducer" using two 2" -> 1" reducers like this (thanks to Rad) but in 2" http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=8439...

well he's sold more than a dozen (more like 20) of them so the feds are a little slow...

they look pretty good to but his shipping rate is a little crazy

i used to be boka now i reckon build a VM

they are just as easy to build as a boka (i now consider easier than a boka)

heating is an electric stove top, . likley to cause you some issues if it is turning on and off the heat going on and off causes surging in the still and screws up the running :( try turning it to "FULL" and leaving it there the whole run but if it turns on and off still then maybe consid...

http://homedistiller.org/wiki/index.php/Boka_Refl ... w_To_Build" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

or maybe some who has been caught ?

temps are based on what % is in the pot = the ALC to water ratio the less ALC the higher the temp it rises higher as the ALC comes out inconsstant flow might be a coil not quite alwasy on a downward slope and then it surges it can also be due to surging heat input. How are you heating ? also turn of...

get a SS ball valve and use that, they are only about $10 (AUD) for a 1/2" not as fine controlled as a needle but plenty adequate for a BOKA you can get a ebay SS needle valve out of china for about $20 (AUD) with no valve your not going to be able to control reflux take off rates and it will b...