Pugi's Rum or "Pugirum"

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Pugi's Rum or "Pugirum"

Postby PUGIDOGS » Tue Feb 05, 2008 4:58 pm

Pugirum:

After many, many pounds of fermentables and different washes and procedures, I have come up with this recipe for Rum.

I want to say thanx to many people that have helped me and you may see some of there ideas in my recipe. THANX

I will start with my " Yeast Bomb "
2 vitamin B, crushed with mortor and pestal
5 teaspoons of 20-0-0, agrcultural fertalizer
1/4 teaspoon of epsom salt
1/4 cup bakers yeast
1 gallon water
Boil all for 15 minutes and strain.


The wash: 10 gallons total
2 gallons of feed molasses
4 LBS of cane brown sugar
the "yeast bomb" = 1 gallon
4 gallons water
3 gallons dunder or water for the first time you make the wash. Dunder is whats left in the still after a STRIPPING run!!!
1 cup bakers yeast

This will ferment out in less than 36 hours. So give it plenty of head room in fermenter or buy a good mop. Let sit for a day to settle.

Drain fermenter and leave about 1/2 gallon of wash in it. This leaves the yeast in there ready and willing to go with next wash. Strip this as fast as the still can go and I mean FAST. We are forcing the flavors through.

Make the wash again and pour on to the yeast left in the fermenter. Then strip again. Add the 2 stripped washes into still with equal amount of dunder that you have saved and the RUM OILS( see below )

Now for the tricky part. On the spirit run:
Run it easy, not to fast, not to slow.
Make the heads to hearts cut like normal and add heads to the vodka/neutral container, do NOT reuse these in your rum.
Run out hearts till you start to get the wet cardboard taste. On my still this is between 85% ABV and 50% ABV. Collect wet cardboard spirits and add to vodka/neutral container. Do NOT reuse these in you rum. For me this is from about 50% ABV down to 40% ABV.
Collect the 40% ABV down to 20% ABV in seperate container. These are your RUM OILS. Handle them with care and treat them special. Always add them to your still when you do a SPIRIT run and always collect them from the spirit run. The more times you use them the more concentrated they become. It wont take long and they will overflow into the hearts. This is the KEY to My rum.

To the full strength spirt run distillant I add:
One slice of pinapple per gallon
2 cloves per gallon
1/2 ounce of raisens per gallon
leave for a month shaking every now and then.
Cut to proof

I use home made carmalized sugar to color. Do not burn the camalized sugar but do make sure it colors up good. I have tried molasses but prefer the carmelized sugar.

This is a full body/taste rum. It is a fairly heavy rum and you will taste and smell the molasses.

Enjoy, Pugi
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Postby mikeac » Tue Feb 05, 2008 5:05 pm

Thanks a lot Pugi!! When I'm done making some neutral for SWHBO to play with, I'm gonna try it!! Very in depth! How important is the "yeast bomb" to the flavor?
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Postby PUGIDOGS » Tue Feb 05, 2008 5:19 pm

The Yeast bomb.....

When RHUM is made in the native lands it is fermented at higher temperatures because the ambient temps are higher. They want the fermintations to be fast as to minimise the chance of bacterial infections. The Yeast bomb does this.

I once did it out in my cold shop at night. It was 45 degress F. in the shop and in the morning it was 20 degrees F. The ferment was done in 48 hours in 45 to 20 degree weather.

I have not noticed the magnisium or nitrogen come over in the distillant at all. The boiled yeast provide the proteen.

I have done this without the yeast bomb and to me it seemed that the molasses flavor did not come through as much, it also took 10 days to ferment.

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Postby Ricky » Tue Feb 05, 2008 5:29 pm

The more times you use them the more concentrated they become. It wont take long and they will overflow into the hearts. This is the KEY to My rum.

might explain why i get early tails in a ujsm variant. i usually use tails with my ferment and do a single run in my potstill. might have to study up on this. thanks.
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Postby PUGIDOGS » Tue Feb 05, 2008 5:34 pm

I usually ran my heads and tails with My UJSM through the still 5 times then they went to the nuetral container. I would get early tails if I let them go to long. Pugi
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Postby BW Redneck » Tue Feb 05, 2008 6:38 pm

Hm. I'm not a rum person, per se, but I do notice a few similarities between this and UJSM:
You constantly have something fermenting, be it the full-blown mash or the yeast sediment on the bottom, which is analogous to the yeast-retaining grain bed on the bottom.
You let it ferment out and re-add sugar and nutrients (I'm assuming that you re-add the "yeast bomb" every batch.) If this is true, then it can be compared to removing part of the spent grain and adding new. Adding backset, of course, ensures continuity between batches.

After people try this a few times, this could possibly be called "the UJSM of rum".
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Postby RadicalEd1 » Tue Feb 05, 2008 8:25 pm

Yeah, but "pugirum" has a nice ring to it :D.
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Postby HookLine » Tue Feb 05, 2008 9:23 pm

So how do you pronounce it.? 'Poo-gee-rum', or 'Poo-jee-rum', or 'Poo-gye-rum' or 'Pug-eye-rum, or...?
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Postby punkin » Wed Feb 06, 2008 1:07 am

HookLine wrote:So how do you pronounce it.? 'Poo-gee-rum', or 'Poo-jee-rum', or 'Poo-gye-rum' or 'Pug-eye-rum, or...?


Depends how many you've had :wink:
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Postby HookLine » Wed Feb 06, 2008 1:37 am

And where you are from, I guess.
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ammonia

Postby schnell » Wed Feb 06, 2008 1:19 pm

does the extra ammonium salts from the fertilizer cause any problems?

i know urea will contribute to carbamate formation, which is undesirable, and I'd expect the ammonia from the fertilizer to be even more of a contribution.

and there may be lots of extra sulphides from the ammonium sulfate and the extra mag sulfate.

how's it taste? that's i guess the only really important issue.
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Postby smokerscully1 » Wed Feb 06, 2008 5:38 pm

I just ran something very similiar to this today--molasses and brown sugar wash--didn't do the 'yeast bomb' cause I have no vitimin B or fertilizer. It fermented a little slow--about 10 days. I ran it thru my pot still and saved the tails for a spirit run later on. Couple of tasters in the shop said it was pretty good rum but a little harsh--yeah --I guess so it hasn't even aird out yet. While I was cleaning up I noticed the dunder had a very pleasent smell--even had a nice taste to it--rather than throw it out I put it back into a fermenting tub added some more sugar (4 Kg) another 5 gallons of water and pitched a 1/4 cup more bakers yeast--we'll see if it goes. Damn this is fun.
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Postby rezaxis » Wed Feb 06, 2008 6:18 pm

I want to try this recipe, but all I can get is dried molasses. Is there a way to calculate how to substitute dry for wet?
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Postby Dnderhead » Wed Feb 06, 2008 6:36 pm

I think someone tried that ,to much funky stuff in it I don't know what
part of world you com from but you can try feed stores ,balk food,
natural food stores restaurant supplies
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Postby rezaxis » Wed Feb 06, 2008 6:47 pm

Feed store is where I went. The only one around these parts too. They used to carry it but don't any more. If I understand it right, to make this right it HAS to be feed molasses. Maybe I'm wrong.
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Postby belialNZ » Wed Feb 06, 2008 6:55 pm

I'd avoid natural food shops...

Found some here.. $13/500ml's...

I don't think I want to pay that kind of money for the quantities I would need.

Still, theres a feedstore I might get a chance to go out too over the weekend. I too wish to try this Pugirum recipe. I haven't drank rum in a long time, but do recall being quite partial to captain morgans back at university.
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Postby Dnderhead » Wed Feb 06, 2008 6:56 pm

Food grade will work but cost more, unless buy in balk ,food grade
has more sugar and less unfermentables
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Postby rezaxis » Wed Feb 06, 2008 7:14 pm

Yeah, I don't think I would do it if I had to pay those prices. I can get 50lb of dried molasses for $16. Maybe I can mix some dried with water and let it settle out some. There are some tack shops around. Maybe they have some.

But if I'm understanding right, dried feed molasses is not just dehydrated liquid feed molasses. There's something else added? Or it's not of the same quality?

Anybody got a breakdown of what's in a bucket of wet feed molasses? Maybe I can compare the two.
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Postby Tater » Wed Feb 06, 2008 10:24 pm

rezaxis wrote:Yeah, I don't think I would do it if I had to pay those prices. I can get 50lb of dried molasses for $16. Maybe I can mix some dried with water and let it settle out some. There are some tack shops around. Maybe they have some.

But if I'm understanding right, dried feed molasses is not just dehydrated liquid feed molasses. There's something else added? Or it's not of the same quality?

Anybody got a breakdown of what's in a bucket of wet feed molasses? Maybe I can compare the two.
If ya bother to do a search theres info out there on fourm about powdered molasses . Gist of it is it aint worth a shit .
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Postby pintoshine » Thu Feb 07, 2008 8:17 am

Except for the choice of molasses, and the addition of brown sugar, which would probably be the equivalent of using second run molasses, your yeast bomb, and your technique is the same as my fast fermenting molasses.

But what sets this rum apart from the rest is your choices on the finish. I am allergic to pineapple so I couldn't try this. I sounds excellent.

I just through recommending the "yeast bomb" to the new-distillers on yahoo. Isn't that one of the best fermenters you have ever tried?

In answer to some of the questions about the ammonia reactions, 20-0-0 is usually pure ammonia nitrate. So the ammonia sulfate you mentioned won't happen. Neither will magnesium nitrate. These salts are stable together. Iron, iron sulfate, in the multiviamins is more reactive than all the metals in the batch and there will be some iron sulfate and some iron nitrate but negligible amounts. The yeast generaly don't have time to produce the off flavors in such a fast fermentation. Even bakers yeast used in this wash is a pleasant flavor. I like it better for this type of wash than any of the ale or wine yeasts.
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Postby PUGIDOGS » Thu Feb 07, 2008 10:32 am

To answer a couple questions.

It is pronounced " Pug E "

I think Pint covered the part about the heavy salts and flavor.

Tater explained the part about powdered molasses perfect.

Like I said at the begining, this recipe was made with alot of other recipes combined. Pints fast fermenting or econo wash was the pefect ticket to simulate the fast ferments of Rhum distilleries in the carabean. Thanx again Pint. Oh and yes the yeast bomb is the best, I actually use it in all my sugar wash recipes including UJSM!!! I would also like to thank Harry and his GGGD for there knowledge. And Rafael Arroyo for being the godfather of Rums.

I try to keep this at about a 8 to 10% wash to minimise off flavors. If it tastes like to much molasses in the final spirit then cut back on molasses and add more brown sugar. I have done it with all brown sugar and it has made a fine light rum. Very buttery tasting, it will not be a dark or heavy rum though.

More on the yeast bomb, I dont always mix a new batch on the next wash. Alot of the componets will carry over with the reuse of dunder. The only one I always use is the Vitamin B. Yeast will eat this up very fast and love it. If your washes are staring to slow down then on the next one yeast bomb it.

Clarification will take a good rum and make it great. To clarify Molasses add 1 part molasses and 2 parts water, heat up till about 180/190 and let sit overnight then rack leaving the sludge behind. Same with dunder, After I run my still I leave the dunder in it till the next day then rack off the clean dunder and leave the settled crap behind.

The biggest part to making this rum is not reusing the heads or tails. The only part that must be reused is the " Rum Oils ". This is the KEY. Try it for a few generations and you will see what I am talking about....Pugi
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Postby HookLine » Thu Feb 07, 2008 11:00 am

Do you think the 'rum oil' trick might work for other recipes, like DW wheat germ?
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Postby PUGIDOGS » Thu Feb 07, 2008 11:56 am

I dont know that answer. The " Rum Oils " that we want for rum are an ester called Isobutyl Propionate. They of course come over in the tails. I have not tried to do this with any other distillant. It could be a good experiment though to narrow down what part of the distillant comes out that carries the wanted flaviniods and try to enhance by accumilating them and reuseing them.

I have a friend who likes what he calls the 3rd jar. I usually save this for him. It is the 3rd jar from a run of UJSM. Or the second jar of 6 total in the hearts run. He thinks this has the best flavor. I even made a label for him " 3rd jar whiskey "......Pugi
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Postby HookLine » Thu Feb 14, 2008 8:55 am

I looked up isobutyl propionate and it has a boiling point of 136.8ºC. It must only be coming over in tiny amounts as an azeotrope during a rum run.
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Postby PUGIDOGS » Wed Feb 20, 2008 10:04 am

After bottling some of this rum I wanted a beer. I opened up one of my home brews a American Pale Ale and noticed that the colors of the two are identical. Kinda funny...Pugi

Image
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Postby punkin » Wed Feb 20, 2008 10:31 am

Two very nice looking brews there Pugi. Are you bottlin your beer or kegging?












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Postby PUGIDOGS » Wed Feb 20, 2008 12:01 pm

punkin wrote:Two very nice looking brews there Pugi. Are you bottlin your beer or kegging?

Punkin, Bottling.....a whole lot of bottling. I am working on a corny setup for kegging. Just have to do it little by little to get it passed the SWMBO...Pugi












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Postby evilpsych » Fri Feb 22, 2008 8:55 am

The rum oils concept intrigues me as well.. anyone try this on a whiskey?
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Postby Bsnapshot » Fri Feb 22, 2008 11:09 am

When Buying feed molasses I know you do not want it Sulfured or with propionic acid.

But what about urea? all the feed stores have urea and it says not for human consumption. It make me want to go Hummm. Other than the grocery store which is to expensive for the amount I need I can not find any in bulk. I even checked Sam's club and Costco neither in my area carry it.
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Postby PUGIDOGS » Fri Feb 22, 2008 10:56 pm

Image

This is the label off of my molasses. Does it list the amount of urea on your label? Pugi

PS. sorry about the big pic, I thought if I shrank it down you could not read it.
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