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kook04 wrote: maybe cuts are the biggest learning curve, here.
but from what I have read a good setup would be to get a high density incoloy 5500W element
Pamulli wrote:I also wonder about reactions between the alcohol and the heating element? Everyone is very concerned about material safety on this board, but I haven't seen any real mention of the makeup of these hot water heater elements and if there is any danger with them being in direct contact with the alcohol?
I also wonder about reactions between the alcohol and the heating element?
My assumption is that for a 240 setup, things get substantially more complicated. Correct?
So, here is what I am thinking...
Run 2 seperate elements in the keg, one from a simple light switch and one from a dimmer/triac setup above. When heating up the wash, turn on the switch and turn up the dimmer. After it has been heated, turn off the switch and use the dimmer/triac setup for controlling temp. Sound like a good plan?
Guys after some experimentation with my heating elements I have come to the conclusion that two factors are involved. One is thermal convection and the other is element surface area.
For those that find they are burning their beer, they can either get an element with a greater surface area, or for those like me who are stuck with what they got - simply ramp up the heat slowly at the beginning of warm-up to allow beer around the element to heat up and convect. If you put it on full blast the stuff around the element doesnt mix and gets really hot and burns. So i heat up with a 'power curve' now.. all good
240 a/c operates the same as 120 a/c, it is just bigger, so you have to use 240v rated components.
newerbrewer wrote:240 a/c operates the same as 120 a/c, it is just bigger, so you have to use 240v rated components.
Hmmm, does anyone have a schematic drawn up for a 220 setup instead of the 110? Would I use a different triac? Different resistor? Obviously, I'd use a bigger load dimmer and wire gauge.
I can only seem to find the lower voltage drawings. Could someone point me in the right direction?
Andy239 wrote:If you have a standard keg, how are you getting inside to hold the nuts from the bolts that go through the flange? Am I missing something?
tobben79 wrote:They have $20 digital controler.
And a $30 relay
Wire controler to relay switch
Wire 220 to the in posts and the element to the out posts
Then add 220 to the controler
Poof you have a fully controled temp to about a half degree
If need one built let me know
tobben79 wrote:It is definitely not that you need one to that degree. But some of us over build things. I looked all over for controling heat to accomplish a all most self running still.
I look at it this way if I can set the set points for either turn off at a certain temep ie alcohol st ops coming and water starts 190deg just say it turns off. Or to set it to get up to magic temp of say 175 and hold for x amount of time. This takes a hobby to a next level of control.
I will say im new to distilling but no were new to brewing or heating and cooling. And yes my brain dose not stop untill it builds things to the fullest capability of that object at hand.
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