Beer Keg Still

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Beer Keg Still

Postby davesioux » Thu Feb 03, 2011 1:30 pm

OK, I've decided on building a beer keg still... I just found 4 kegs... 2 @ 15 gals and 2 @ 7 gals.. couldn't pass up the price so I bought them all...... NOW WHAT???

1. Do I cut the entire top off and fab a lid with a SS mixing bowl?

2. Do I leave it as is and add an adapter like the ones sold at Mile Hi?

What's the advantage vs disadvantage? I can see it's easier to clean the keg with the top removed.... but is it so difficult to clean a stock keg. I"m leaning to using it as is... but am concerned about the ease of cleaning.

Gonna start off with a simple pot still and later build a reflux tower.

Also, Do the small 7 gal kegs make good stills are are the just too small to mess with???

Advice appreciated.

living on the Bayou,
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Re: Beer Keg Still

Postby Husker » Thu Feb 03, 2011 1:39 pm

I would recommend that you leave one large, and one small one (at least) un-mollested.

Then, you can build what is called an 'easy flange' (search the forums, it is easy to find), and both of those will work great as boilers.

I would then look for the instructions to make a nice cook pot. I believe the user Absenthe has a really great tut on doing that. Built a wonderful pot, with nice handles.

I had multiple 15's and a single 7.5. I have 2 15's, that I can use as boilers (unmollested), and the 7.5 is also intact. I have a 15 that is a BOP (boiling pot). I have another 15, which I plasma cut a hole in the top. I have since given up on the upside down bowl thing. This one, I have built into a very nice worm in the bucket condenser. I have a 7 loop coil in there, attached to the top (there was still a couple inch ring of metal around the top skirt, and the bottom of the coil is 'perm' connected out the bottom.

Those are just some ideas. But DO NOT cut the top out of all of them, or you will kick yourself, trust me.

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Re: Beer Keg Still

Postby cob » Thu Feb 03, 2011 4:08 pm

davesioux wrote: snip I can see it's easier to clean the keg with the top removed.... but is it so difficult to clean a stock keg. I"m leaning to using it as is... but am concerned about the ease of cleaning.

Gonna start off with a simple pot still and later build a reflux tower.

Also, Do the small 7 gal kegs make good stills are are the just too small to mess with???

Advice appreciated.

living on the Bayou,
DaveSioux


davesioux your first statement is true, however the answer to your question is that a keg used as a boiler is literaly self cleaning eg. high temp alcahol wash slightly acidic. the cleaning is hot water rinse and done. unmolested kegs are more valuable and much less work. imho. cob
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Re: Beer Keg Still

Postby junkyard dawg » Thu Feb 03, 2011 4:16 pm

I've never had a problem cleaning an intact keg boiler...
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Re: Beer Keg Still

Postby davesioux » Thu Feb 03, 2011 4:22 pm

Ok gents... that sounds good. I like the idea of keeping it like it is...

This brings me to my next question.. what way do yall recommend to connect the tower to the keg?
Mile Hi has a copper to stainless coupler... but they want 57 dollars for it. There's got to be a cheaper and just as easy way to connect. I've been searching on the net... but everything leads me back to Mile Hi.

Any suggestions.

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Re: Beer Keg Still

Postby davesioux » Thu Feb 03, 2011 4:28 pm

My bad... my mouth was running faster than my need to read... just did a search on 'easy flange'... and got my answer.

Thanks Home Distiller!

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Re: Beer Keg Still

Postby irishpoitoin » Mon Feb 10, 2014 2:49 pm

hi am i was just wondering i have a keg with 3" hole in the top and i have a worm for it already but i was just wondering what is the best and cheapest way of connecting the 3" hole onto 3/4 copper pipe .by the way im not very good with bending and welding metal thanks for any reply
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Re: Beer Keg Still

Postby Bob Loblaw » Mon Feb 10, 2014 3:00 pm

My $0.02, after just doing this - keep the sanke fitting intact, but don't bother with an easy flange. There is nothing easy about it when you compare it to a stainless ferrule which fits perfectly into M-type copper pipe.

2014-01-29 15.24.16 (600x800).jpg


You can get the piece you need at amazon for all of $5.44 http://www.amazon.com/Dixon-L14AM7-G200 ... B00835O0J6. Then solder it up with a Harris stay-brite solder kit off of ebay for about $10.50. It will take you 90 seconds if you have the right tools. Or you can hammer and shape an easy-flange all day and it still won't fit into a triclamp as tightly unless you are some sort of master craftsman. With the sanitary fitting you can also use manufactured PFTE gaskets. There is even this one here that is designed to work with a keg - it is flat on one side, and has a lip on the other to fit the sanitary fitting. https://www.brewershardware.com/F1GASSIL.html
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Re: Beer Keg Still

Postby halfbaked » Mon Feb 10, 2014 3:03 pm

Hay dave I would not cut anything up yet. What I would do is figure out what you are trying to make and figure what you need to do to get there. I know you are excited as I was when I got my first keg. Once you cut it putting it back the way it was is not as easy and could prove costly. Go slow and use your knowledge as your roadmap.
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Re: Beer Keg Still

Postby Prairiepiss » Mon Feb 10, 2014 3:05 pm

irishpoitoin wrote:hi am i was just wondering i have a keg with 3" hole in the top and i have a worm for it already but i was just wondering what is the best and cheapest way of connecting the 3" hole onto 3/4 copper pipe .by the way im not very good with bending and welding metal thanks for any reply


So someone cut a 3" hole in the top?
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Re: Beer Keg Still

Postby BIGBIRD123 » Mon Feb 10, 2014 5:32 pm

I think you will be able to find something to help you with the 3" hole on the StillDragon site...

http://www.stilldragon.com/
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