How to solder (beginners guide)

Other discussions for folks new to the wonderful craft of home distilling.

Moderator: Site Moderator

Just4Fun
Novice
Posts: 16
Joined: Sat Jan 12, 2013 6:33 pm

Re: Howto solder (beginners guide)

Post by Just4Fun »

I went to my Local Compressed Gas and Welding Supply outlet, I have a Bottle of Lucas Tec-Flux. It is 4oz of red liquid that was recommended by the salesman. Its primary purpose is to remove the Oxide layer from the material to be worked, stright and to the point. I wasnt able to get MSDS on the product but will keep searching. I will be trying this product this weekend and will post my conclusions.
User avatar
jholmz
Distiller
Posts: 1245
Joined: Mon Dec 24, 2012 10:18 pm
Location: U.S. Midwest corn belt

Re: Howto solder (beginners guide)

Post by jholmz »

Just4Fun wrote:I went to my Local Compressed Gas and Welding Supply outlet, I have a Bottle of Lucas Tec-Flux. It is 4oz of red liquid that was recommended by the salesman. Its primary purpose is to remove the Oxide layer from the material to be worked, stright and to the point. I wasnt able to get MSDS on the product but will keep searching. I will be trying this product this weekend and will post my conclusions.
just a little on that what was there excuse for not giving you an msds if they have a product on there shelves or sell a product they are required to have a copy of the msds
Just4Fun
Novice
Posts: 16
Joined: Sat Jan 12, 2013 6:33 pm

Re: Howto solder (beginners guide)

Post by Just4Fun »

Not the companies fault, I had the salesman keep the doors open a little past closing. I didnt wanna keep him, and it just slipped my mind. I really hope it works, I was on the phone with everybody in the state and nobody had anything. So when this place said they had 1 bottle left I couldnt pass it up.
User avatar
jholmz
Distiller
Posts: 1245
Joined: Mon Dec 24, 2012 10:18 pm
Location: U.S. Midwest corn belt

Re: Howto solder (beginners guide)

Post by jholmz »

heres the msds
LUCAS-MILHAUPT INC -- TEC FLUX
=======================================================
Material Safety Data Sheet
=======================================================
MSDS Num: BVZCP
MSDS NAME: TEC FLUX
Responsible Party
Name: LUCAS-MILHAUPT INC
Address: 5656 S PENNSYLVANIA AVE
City: CUDAHY WI 53110
Info Phone: 414-769-9000
Emergency Phone Number: 800-424-9300(CHEMTREC)
Proprietary Ind: Y
Published: Y
=======================================================
Contractor Summary
=======================================================
Name: LUCAS-MILHAUPT INC A HANDY & HARMAN CO
Address: 5656 SOUTH PENNSYLVANIA AVENUE
City: CUDAHY WI 53110
Phone: 414-769-6000
=======================================================
Ingredients
=======================================================
Name: *** PROPRIETARY ***
-----------------------------
=======================================================
Health Hazards Data
=======================================================
LD50 LC50 Mixture: NONE SPECIFIED BY MANUFACTURER.
Route Of Entry Inds - Inhalation: YES
Skin: YES
Ingestion: YES
Carcinogenicity Inds - NTP: NO
IARC: NO
OSHA: NO
Effects of Exposure: INHAL: COMPONENTS & DECOMP PRODS OF TEC FLUX DOES NOT
POSE A SIGNIF RISK TO HLTH WHEN PROD IS USED IN ACCORD W/ INSTRUCTIONS &
APPROP PROT MEASURES. COMPONENTS/DECOMP PRODS MAY CAUSE ONE/ MORE OF FOLL
OWING SYMPS & EFFECTS IF EXPOS IS EXCESS HIGH &/PLNGD: IRRIT TO NOSE,
THROAT & RESP TRACT; NAUS, CHEST (EFTS OF OVEREXP)
Explanation Of Carcinogenicity: NOT RELEVANT.
Signs And Symptions Of Overexposure: HLTH HAZ: TIGHTNESS, CHILLS, FEVER,
SHORTNESS OF BREATH, ULCERATION OF MUCOUS MEMBS, PNEUM & PULM EDEMA.
SKIN: CAN PRDCE IRRIT/SKIN BURNS, PARTICULARLY ON ABRADED SKIN. PLNGD EXPOS
CAN CAUSE ULCERATIO N OF SKIN. EYES: CAN CAUSE SEV EYE IRRIT &/CORNEAL
INJURY. INGEST: POTNTLY TOXIC IF INGEST & INGEST OF MATL (SUPP DATA)
Medical Cond Aggravated By Exposure: PRE-EXISTING PULM DISEASES(E.G., BRONCH,
EMPHYSEMA, ASTHMA), MAY BE AGGRAVATED BY INHAL EXPOS TO LISTED COMPONENTS
& DECOMP PRODS OF CMPD. INGEST OF SUBSTANCE CAN AGGRAVATE PRE-EXISTING
First Aid: INHAL: REMOVE SUBJECT FROM CONTAMD AREA, ADMIN O2 & SEEK MED
ATTN. KEEP SUBJECT WARM & AT REST. PERFORM ARTF RESP IF BRTHG HAS
STOPPED. SKIN:REMOVE CONTAMD CLTHG & WASH AFFECTED AREA W/LGE QTYS OF WAT
ER FOR AT LEAST 15 MINS. SEEK MED ATTN IF NEC. EYES: FLUSH AFFECTED AREAS
W/WATER FOR AT LEAST 15 MINS. SEEK MED ASSIST IF NEC. INGEST: DO NOT INDUCE
VOMIT. KEEP THE SUBJECT WARM & AT REST.
=======================================================
Handling and Disposal
=======================================================
Spill Release Procedures: ISOLATE SPILLED MATL & TRANSFER TO IMPERVIOUS
CNTNRS. AVOID CONT W/SKIN, EYES & MUCOUS MEMBRANES. DILUTE & WASH
DOWN SPILLAGE W/WATER. WEAR APPROP PROT EQUIP (E.G.,GLOVES, BOOTS, IMPERVIOUS
GOGGLES) D URING CLEANUP & DISPOSAL.
Neutralizing Agent: NONE SPECIFIED BY MANUFACTURER.
Waste Disposal Methods: DISPOSE OF IN ACCORDANCE WITH FEDERAL, STATE/
PROVINCIAL & LOCAL REGULATIONS.
Handling And Storage Precautions: STORE IN A COOL, DRY PLACE AWAY FROM
INCOMPATIBLE MATERIALS.
Other Precautions: NONE SPECIFIED BY MANUFACTURER.
=======================================================
Fire and Explosion Hazard Information
=======================================================
Flash Point Text: NON FLAMMABLE
Extinguishing Media: USE MEDIA SUITABLE FOR SURROUNDING FIRE(FP N).
Fire Fighting Procedures: WEAR NIOSH/MSHA APPROVED PRESSURE DEMAND SCBA &
FULL PROTECTIVE EQUIPMENT(FP N).
Unusual Fire/Explosion Hazard: IF THIS PRODUCT IS PRESENT DURING A FIRE,
HAZARDOUS COMPONENTS AND/OR DECOMPOSITION PRODUCTS MAY BE EMITTED.
=======================================================
Control Measures
=======================================================
Respiratory Protection: IF AN EXPOS LVL(S) TO ANY COMPONENT &/DECOMP PROD
EXCEEDS ITS OSHA PEL(S), WEAR NIOSH/MSHA APPRVD RESP HAVING A
CONFIGURATION(TYPE OF FACEPIECE & CARTRIDGE/FILTER) & PROT FACTOR
APPROP TO NATURE & CON C OF THE CONTAM(S) GENERATED.
Ventilation: MECH LOC EXHST/GENL VENT ADEQ TO MAINTAIN AIRBORNE CONC OF
COMPONENTS & THEIR DECOMP PRODS W/IN RESPECTIVE OSHA PELS.
Protective Gloves: IMPERVIOUS GLOVES (FP N).
Eye Protection: ANSI APPRVD WEAR EYE PROT ADEQ
Other Protective Equipment: PROT CLOTHING TO PREVENT SKIN INJURIES. AVOID
FLAMMABLE FABRICS.
Work Hygienic Practices: TO AVOID POSS INGEST OF MATL, WASH HANDS AND FACE
BEFORE EATING, DRINKING OR COMSUMPTION OF TOBACCO.
Supplemental Safety and Health: USERS OF THE "L" VERSION OF TO CONSULT "LR"
VERSION FOR ADDITIONAL INFO(FP N). HAZ DECOMP: CHLORIDE(FUME), ZINC
CHLORIDE(FUME), ZINC OXIDE(FUME), HYDROGEN CHLORIDE. EFTS OF OVEREXP: MAY
CAUSE ONE /MORE OF FOLLOWING SYMPS & EFTS: NAUS, VOMIT, DIARR, ABDOM
PAIN, CRAMPS, GI IRRIT, CONVULSIONS & KIDNEY DMG.
=======================================================
Physical/Chemical Properties
=======================================================
HCC: N1
B.P. Text: 229F,109C
Spec Gravity: 1.55
Solubility in Water: SOLUBLE
Appearance and Odor: RED LIQUID WITH A MILD ODOR.
Percent Volatiles by Volume: 37
=======================================================
Reactivity Data
=======================================================
Stability Indicator: YES
Stability Condition To Avoid: PRODUCT WILL DECOMPOSE AT ELEVATED TEMPERATURES.
Materials To Avoid: POTASSIUM PLUS ALUMINUM BROMIDE; POTASSIUM CHLORATE;
AMMONIUM NITRATE; IODINE PENTAFLUORIDE; BROMINE TRIFLUORIDE.
Hazardous Decomposition Products: FOLLOWING CMPDS ARE POTNTL DECOMP PRODS OF
TEC FLUX WHEN HEATED TO OR IN EXCESS OF BRAZING TEMPS: AMMONIUM (SUPP DATA)
Hazardous Polymerization Indicator: NO
Conditions To Avoid Polymerization: NOT RELEVANT.
=======================================================
Toxicological Information
=======================================================
=======================================================
Ecological Information
=======================================================
=======================================================
MSDS Transport Information
=======================================================
=======================================================
Regulatory Information
=======================================================
=======================================================
Other Information
=======================================================
=======================================================
HAZCOM Label
=======================================================
MSDS NAME: TEC FLUX
Company: LUCAS-MILHAUPT INC A HANDY & HARMAN CO
Street: 5656 SOUTH PENNSYLVANIA AVENUE
City: CUDAHY WI
Zipcode: 53110
Health Emergency Phone: 800-424-9300(CHEMTREC)
Label Required IND: Y
Date Of Label Review: 11/09/1994
Status Code: C
Label Date: 11/09/1994
Origination Code: G
Chronic Hazard IND: Y
Eye Protection IND: YES
Skin Protection IND: YES
Signal Word: WARNING
Respiratory Protection IND: YES
Health Hazard: Moderate
Contact Hazard: Moderate
Fire Hazard: None
Reactivity Hazard: None
Hazard And Precautions: ACUTE: INHAL: COMPONENTS/DECOMP PRODS MAY CAUSE
ONE/MORE OF FOLLOWING SYMPS & EFFECTS IF EXPOS IS EXCESS HIGH
&/PLNGD: IRRIT TO NOSE, THROAT & RESP TRACT; NAUS, CHEST TIGHTNESS,
CHILLS, FEVER, SHORTNE SS OF BREATH, ULCERATION OF MUCOUS MEMBRANES,
PNEUMONITIS & PULMONARY EDEMA. SKIN: CAN PRODUCE IRRITATION OR BURNS AND
CAN CUASE ULCERATION. EYES: SEVERE IRRITATION AND/OR CORNEAL INJURY. INGEST:
POTE NTIALLY TOXIC. MAY CAUSE NAUSEA, DIARRHEA, ABDOMINAL PAIN, CRAMPS, GI
IRRITATION, CONVULSIONS AND KIDNEY DAMAGE. CHRONIC: NONE LISTED BY MFR.
=======================================================
Disclaimer (provided with this information by the compiling agencies): This
information is formulated for use by elements of the Department of Defense.
The United States of America in no manner whatsoever expressly or implied
warrants, states, or intends said information to have any application, use or
viability by or to any person or persons outside the Department of Defense
nor any person or persons contracting with any instrumentality of the United
States of America and disclaims all liability for such use. Any person
utilizing this instruction who is not a military or civilian employee of the
United States of America should seek competent professional advice to verify
and assume responsibility for the suitability of this information to their
particular situation regardless of similarity to a corresponding Department
of Defense or other government situation.

*** END OF RECORD ***

hope it helps
lovePitbulls
Novice
Posts: 24
Joined: Sun Jan 27, 2013 8:48 pm

Re: Howto solder (beginners guide)

Post by lovePitbulls »

Cant wait to re solder my still. My current setup was my first solder ever. I had some leaks that I noticed after my first run. So im gonna cut everything up and reconfigure my setup completely after seeing other peoples stills. I think I realized what my main problem was when soldering last week..which was I was burning the flux which just caused a huge mess. Cant wait to get back to homedepot and pick up my new supplies.
Just4Fun
Novice
Posts: 16
Joined: Sat Jan 12, 2013 6:33 pm

Re: Howto solder (beginners guide)

Post by Just4Fun »

Lucas Tec-Flux. Worked amazing. Solder flowed like water and adhered to the Stainless like it was meant to be. No complaints from me.
claytonhaske
Novice
Posts: 43
Joined: Wed Feb 20, 2013 9:51 am

Re: Howto solder (beginners guide)

Post by claytonhaske »

GingerBreadMan wrote:Image(I soldered a copper fitting to this bowl earlier)
can someone describe how to do this???? i cant quite find out how to solder a copper pipe to the bottom of a stainless steel bowl for the top of my pot still. the one in the picture is exactly what i need. thanks, clayton.
rad14701
retired
Posts: 20865
Joined: Wed Dec 19, 2007 4:46 pm
Location: New York, USA

Re: Howto solder (beginners guide)

Post by rad14701 »

claytonhaske wrote:can someone describe how to do this???? i cant quite find out how to solder a copper pipe to the bottom of a stainless steel bowl for the top of my pot still. the one in the picture is exactly what i need. thanks, clayton.
I solder copper to stainless the same way I do copper to copper... You just need to be mindful that the two metals absorb and retains heat at slightly different rates... When in doubt, tin each component separately and then position and heat until they join together... When the two metals differ greatly in thickness I have found this to be the easiest method, especially when the stainless is thicker...
claytonhaske
Novice
Posts: 43
Joined: Wed Feb 20, 2013 9:51 am

Re: Howto solder (beginners guide)

Post by claytonhaske »

rad14701 wrote:
claytonhaske wrote:can someone describe how to do this???? i cant quite find out how to solder a copper pipe to the bottom of a stainless steel bowl for the top of my pot still. the one in the picture is exactly what i need. thanks, clayton.
I solder copper to stainless the same way I do copper to copper... You just need to be mindful that the two metals absorb and retains heat at slightly different rates... When in doubt, tin each component separately and then position and heat until they join together... When the two metals differ greatly in thickness I have found this to be the easiest method, especially when the stainless is thicker...
thanks rad, now i need to read up on tinning. thanks, Clayton.
keepinitreal538
Novice
Posts: 1
Joined: Wed Apr 10, 2013 6:33 pm

Re: Howto solder (beginners guide)

Post by keepinitreal538 »

hi this whole thread has been very helpfull but just wondering could someone just jb weld the copper fittings. as far as i know theres no lead in it. could someone explain why you cant?
Sasher
Novice
Posts: 1
Joined: Mon Feb 18, 2013 7:33 pm

Re: Howto solder (beginners guide)

Post by Sasher »

could someone just jb weld the copper fittings. as far as i know theres no lead in it. could someone explain why you cant?
From the JB Weld MSDS:
http://www.jbweld.com/wp-content/upload ... d-MSDS.pdf

The product is 10-30% Oxirne,2,2-[(1-methylethylidene)bis(4,1-phenyleneoxymethylene)]bis,homo polymer (a plastic)
...And is catagorized as a hazardous chemical under OSHA Standards

From 'The rules we live by':
http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopi ... =35&t=5090
8. These forums take a very strong negative view on the usage of plastics and synthetics in distilling. It simply is not safe to use in any area of hobby distilling (however HPDE buckets are acceptable for fermentation.) There simply are too many types of plastics and lack of reliable information about plastics, for us to reliably advocate their use anywhere in the distillation apparatus. Also, from past posting history, this topic seems to quickly boil down into an almost religious flame war. Thus we simply will not put up with it, and posts about any form of plastic use will be edited, deleted or locked. There is a forum for proven info for or against any material (material/safety.)
I'm thinking you probably don't want that stuff anywhere near high-ABV alchohol vapor... especially if you plan to drink it afterward :crazy:
rad14701
retired
Posts: 20865
Joined: Wed Dec 19, 2007 4:46 pm
Location: New York, USA

Re: Howto solder (beginners guide)

Post by rad14701 »

keepinitreal538 wrote:hi this whole thread has been very helpfull but just wondering could someone just jb weld the copper fittings. as far as i know theres no lead in it. could someone explain why you cant?
NO...!!! :problem:

It's been covered here several times if you take the time to search... :idea:
MaStiKa45
Novice
Posts: 11
Joined: Wed Apr 24, 2013 10:32 am

Re: Howto solder (beginners guide)

Post by MaStiKa45 »

Soldering copper!!!

Hard or not...you be the judge. :wave:

http://www.eyehandy.com/home-improvemen ... with-tara/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

:crazy: :crazy: :crazy: :moresarcasm:
ElectricEd
Novice
Posts: 8
Joined: Mon Apr 29, 2013 8:21 pm

Re: Howto solder (beginners guide)

Post by ElectricEd »

moe fishwater wrote:Anybody have a preferred flux they use. If so, can you tell me? Thanks!
Hi Moe,
I'm new to this new to this forum and am still in the process of making my still(s). I wrecked several SS tri-clamp flanges while trying to figure out how to braze SS to copper. Here's what I found, it is collated from several product guides that I found:

Brazing for Tri-clamps
Tri-clamps are made from Austenitic stainless steel. Austenitic stainless steels are non-magnetic. The Austenitic steels are based on the 18% chromium 8% nickel composition although the chromium addition can vary from 15-22% and the nickel from 6-11%. These steels cannot be hardened by heat treatment and must rely for their mechanical properties on mechanical working. This means that any thermal joining treatment will reduce the mechanical properties in the 'heat affected zone'. Austenitic steels if heated between 55O °C and 750 °C will precipitate complex Chromium Carbide. This will render the material susceptible to a rapid corrosion process known as weld decay. The degree of this precipitation will be a function of the carbon content but it is obvious that most thermal joining processes will be a potential hazard. The steels can be stabilised by the addition of either niobium or titanium and all Austenitic steels that are to be brazed or welded should either be in this condition or have a low carbon content. (302, 303, 304, 310, 316, 321, 325 and 347).

Fluxes
The use of a flux is essential when brazing stainless steel in air. With components where the joint area can be easily heated up to brazing temperature, Easyflo flux can be used. However, should prolonged heating be necessary, a flux metal reaction will take place when this flux is used. This reaction will form a film on the surface of the stainless steel so that it cannot be 'wetted' by the brazing alloy, and the addition of fresh flux will not remove this film. In these instances it is necessary to use Tenacity Flux No 5 flux. This has improved high temperature properties and does not react with stainless steel. The only problem is that the residues are not water-soluble and have to be removed with caustic soda, or mechanical methods, such as grit blasting.

Only use 56% silver. eg SilBRAZE 56IN from BOC, but can only be bought in 1/2 Kilo packs. $700+
SilBraze Tenacity Flux No 6 flux. Clean up with 10% caustic soda. About $77. (Tenacity Flux No 5 no longer available)


I could not justify spending $700 plus on the rods, so just used Comcoat 356T and knocked off the flux coating.
Using ordinary Cigweld No2 flux, you can see it filling up with the Chromium Carbide as you try to do the brazing. When it goes dark grey to black it's all over, if you haven't finished the brazing it is another stuffed joint that cannot be fixed. The Chromium carbide completely covers the tri-clamp and there is no way to clean it off in the places that you need to get the silver braze into. :crazy:

The Tenacity 6 flux is fantastic, it just keeps hanging on. Even if you think you've finished and cool it off, only to find that you've missed a bit, you can apply a little more flux to the missed area and reheat and carry on. :D :clap:

So there you are, a flux that really works on stainless steel!
Attachments
Tenacity No. 6 Flux Powder.pdf
Tenacity No 6 Brochure
(171.97 KiB) Downloaded 482 times
CRACKERCREEK
Swill Maker
Posts: 216
Joined: Thu Apr 25, 2013 8:47 am

Re: Howto solder (beginners guide)

Post by CRACKERCREEK »

I am having a "Real" issue soldering a fitting on my liebig. it seems the weight of the condensor is causing the solder to flex and crack. It also seems the solder isnt "Biting" into the copper. What am I doing wrong all the other connections are looking and holding up real well.
passatiji
Novice
Posts: 8
Joined: Mon Aug 12, 2013 7:01 pm

Re: Howto solder (beginners guide)

Post by passatiji »

Hi,

I am building my first column and have a question regarding solder.
Here is what I found at local retailers:

Image
Worthington 1/4 lb Lead-Free Copper Pipe Solder
Lead-free solder for plumbing applications
Approved for use in potable water applications

Image
BernzOmatic 1/8 lbs Lead-Free Copper Pipe Solder
Perfect for copper pipes, hot water heaters, and general plumbing repair
430°F melt temperature
Lead-free: NSF 61 certified safe for potable water systems
Meets ATSM standards B32
Silver bearing solder for increased joint strength

Both are approved for potable water systems.
BernzOmatic is stated for hot water systems
Which one do you think is better / safer?
Thank you!
User avatar
FightnFive
Novice
Posts: 53
Joined: Sun Dec 09, 2012 6:07 pm
Location: Someplace else

Re: Howto solder (beginners guide)

Post by FightnFive »

CRACKERCREEK wrote:I am having a "Real" issue soldering a fitting on my liebig. it seems the weight of the condensor is causing the solder to flex and crack. It also seems the solder isnt "Biting" into the copper. What am I doing wrong all the other connections are looking and holding up real well.
Did u resolve this issue? You might be getting the pipe too hot and burning off the flux. Doesn't sound like u are having a good flow of solder INTO your joint.
CRACKERCREEK
Swill Maker
Posts: 216
Joined: Thu Apr 25, 2013 8:47 am

Re: Howto solder (beginners guide)

Post by CRACKERCREEK »

FightnFive wrote:
CRACKERCREEK wrote:I am having a "Real" issue soldering a fitting on my liebig. it seems the weight of the condensor is causing the solder to flex and crack. It also seems the solder isnt "Biting" into the copper. What am I doing wrong all the other connections are looking and holding up real well.
Did u resolve this issue? You might be getting the pipe too hot and burning off the flux. Doesn't sound like u are having a good flow of solder INTO your joint.


This seemed to be the case so I cleanned it real well and tried it again and 3 runs in and were good to go.
Thanks.
new moon
Novice
Posts: 78
Joined: Wed Jun 15, 2011 7:24 pm
Location: tatler's ridge N.C.

Re: Howto solder (beginners guide)

Post by new moon »

wanting to attach a stainless steel fitting to my keg to install a heating element,..can some one suggest the best way to accomplish this??
wine is fine,...but likker is quicker!!
treeman88

Re: Howto solder (beginners guide)

Post by treeman88 »

what typ of solder do you use for stainless steel and what kind of flux
User avatar
frodo
Distiller
Posts: 1727
Joined: Sat Dec 07, 2013 11:55 pm
Location: hiding behind a pine tree. bout 100 miles east of new orleans

Re: Howto solder (beginners guide)

Post by frodo »

ya'll mind if i make a how to solider video. for this site...i am a master plumber in 2 states, and a journeyman in another
have been solidering for 30 + years and i think a video would help out...solidering is not just doing its seeing and feeling also
User avatar
frodo
Distiller
Posts: 1727
Joined: Sat Dec 07, 2013 11:55 pm
Location: hiding behind a pine tree. bout 100 miles east of new orleans

Re: Howto solder (beginners guide)

Post by frodo »

i threw a short video togather to go with Huskers excellent tips and procedures on how to solider
the reason i did this.. i tend to learn better if i see what is being done...rather than reading about it
the video is not studio quality. so please excuse the camera pointing up in the trees....

http://www.dailymotion.com/video/x18kxl ... 1_creation
User avatar
T-Pee
Site Donor
Site Donor
Posts: 4355
Joined: Mon Feb 18, 2013 9:20 pm
Location: The wilds of rural California

Re: Howto solder (beginners guide)

Post by T-Pee »

"Solder". It's "solder".

tp
googe
retired
Posts: 3848
Joined: Wed Jun 20, 2012 6:53 pm
Location: awwstralian in new zealund

Re: Howto solder (beginners guide)

Post by googe »

Nice job mate :thumbup: , I to prefer visual then text!. Love hearing your accents over there, sawda :lol: . Looks like bloody beautiful weather there!.
Here's to alcohol, the cause of, and solution to, all life's problems.
"Homer J Simpson"
ty7466
Novice
Posts: 35
Joined: Sat Nov 23, 2013 9:29 pm

Re: Howto solder (beginners guide)

Post by ty7466 »

Im trying to solder as we speak and im having a problem with the pipes not getting hot enough. For some reason it just isnt heating up enough for the solder to get on the pipe. I stood there for a long time trying to heat up the pipe and fitting. Im trying to solder a reducer to my 2 inch pipe. Im doing in the cold so maybe that is could be part of it? What do you guys think?
googe
retired
Posts: 3848
Joined: Wed Jun 20, 2012 6:53 pm
Location: awwstralian in new zealund

Re: Howto solder (beginners guide)

Post by googe »

What are you using to heat it?.
Here's to alcohol, the cause of, and solution to, all life's problems.
"Homer J Simpson"
ty7466
Novice
Posts: 35
Joined: Sat Nov 23, 2013 9:29 pm

Re: Howto solder (beginners guide)

Post by ty7466 »

Propane torch!
googe
retired
Posts: 3848
Joined: Wed Jun 20, 2012 6:53 pm
Location: awwstralian in new zealund

Re: Howto solder (beginners guide)

Post by googe »

Thats all I had when I started, can do up to 4" with it but takes a while. The cold may be affecting it, have you got a ring burner or other heat sorce you can put it on to get it up to heat then use your propane torch?. Are you doing soft solder?.
Here's to alcohol, the cause of, and solution to, all life's problems.
"Homer J Simpson"
User avatar
T-Pee
Site Donor
Site Donor
Posts: 4355
Joined: Mon Feb 18, 2013 9:20 pm
Location: The wilds of rural California

Re: Howto solder (beginners guide)

Post by T-Pee »

Using the yellow-colored MAPP gas helps a lot too. Burns hotter than propane.

mw
Bob Loblaw
Swill Maker
Posts: 478
Joined: Fri Jan 03, 2014 11:13 am
Location: Pacific Northwest

Re: Howto solder (beginners guide)

Post by Bob Loblaw »

HookLine wrote:
Nightforce wrote:I guess I'm confused, is 95/5 tin/antimony okay to use in stills. One reply here seemed to say no and the other link seemed to say that it was only harmful if present in high levels of inhalation, unless I was mistaken.
Personally I would avoid it, especially as there are easily available and cheap alternatives that are some combination of tin, silver and copper. Should be able to find them at the hardware/plumbing or electronics store.
I got curious about this because I have been using the Tin/antimony solder I had laying around on my project and I was a little worried I'd made a mistake!

What I found (admittedly based on only a few minutes invested) contradicts the advice quoted above. The first two studies of solder toxicity I found stated that silver is considered to be far more toxic than antimony. FWIW, quoting one of the studies (links below)

"It is interesting to note that, according to the ATSDR and EPA, antimony is ranked
below zinc, bismuth, copper, and silver (all of which are constituents of lead-free
alloys), as well as lead, in terms of its potential threat to human health. "

Based on these studies - It sounds like tin/antimony solder would be the default and you should limit use of the silver solder to joining ferrous/non-ferrous materials. Interestingly, one of the studies asserts that antimony has fewer toxicity caveats/warnings than copper - the base material from which most of the stills on this site are built

http://trs-new.jpl.nasa.gov/dspace/bits ... 3-0222.pdf" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
http://www.psinter.com/downloads/aim/Antimony_Study.pdf" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
Easiest way to avoid being on a TTB list is to not purchase a boiler, full column, or condensor from a retailer. Build your own.
Post Reply