Pot Still Capacity

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Playhard
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Pot Still Capacity

Post by Playhard »

People use various small stove top stills using standard cooking pots. For my first DIY pot still, I have purchased and plan to use a 12 quart pot. My thoughts are that this size would accommodate batches from 1 to 2 gallon projects. So, my question is: "Can I run a 1 gallon wash, with no issues, using a 12 quart (3 gallon) boiler?

I have a second question, for the near future. I also have a nice 7.5 gallon (1/4 keg) beer keg. Same question as above. Is there a law of diminishing returns regarding the size of the boiler vs. the size of the wash. At the moment, I can see small runs of 1 to 2 gallons. Use of the 1/4 keg gives me some practical options, particularly if if I can run a low volume project.

If I had a 1/4 keg system, would I even need to build a pot still, and just use the 1/4 keg for these 1 to 2 gallon projects?

Full disclosure. I am an old wine maker, but just cannot lift 1/2 kegs and 5 gallon carboys, with my bad back. And I want to try distilling. Thanks, in advance.
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Kareltje
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Re: Pot Still Capacity

Post by Kareltje »

Playhard wrote:People use various small stove top stills using standard cooking pots. For my first DIY pot still, I have purchased and plan to use a 12 quart pot. My thoughts are that this size would accommodate batches from 1 to 2 gallon projects. So, my question is: "Can I run a 1 gallon wash, with no issues, using a 12 quart (3 gallon) boiler?
Yes you can, provided you have no electrical elements that run dry if you do so. For very hard foaming mashes it even is advisable to fill only 1/3 of the boiler.
I have a second question, for the near future. I also have a nice 7.5 gallon (1/4 keg) beer keg. Same question as above. Is there a law of diminishing returns regarding the size of the boiler vs. the size of the wash. At the moment, I can see small runs of 1 to 2 gallons. Use of the 1/4 keg gives me some practical options, particularly if if I can run a low volume project.

If I had a 1/4 keg system, would I even need to build a pot still, and just use the 1/4 keg for these 1 to 2 gallon projects?
1 gallon in a 7.5 gallon keg I would consider a bit too small to be practical, but that is just my gut feeling.
If I had your pot and keg and I knew what I know now, I would make a boiler out of the keg and use the cooking pot for both a small boiler and a one-hole-thumper.
Full disclosure. I am an old wine maker, but just cannot lift 1/2 kegs and 5 gallon carboys, with my bad back. And I want to try distilling. Thanks, in advance.
And you can not use or make a block to lift kegs or carboys?
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NZChris
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Re: Pot Still Capacity

Post by NZChris »

Playhard wrote:People use various small stove top stills using standard cooking pots. For my first DIY pot still, I have purchased and plan to use a 12 quart pot. My thoughts are that this size would accommodate batches from 1 to 2 gallon projects. So, my question is: "Can I run a 1 gallon wash, with no issues, using a 12 quart (3 gallon) boiler?
Yes.
Playhard wrote:I have a second question, for the near future. I also have a nice 7.5 gallon (1/4 keg) beer keg. Same question as above. Is there a law of diminishing returns regarding the size of the boiler vs. the size of the wash. At the moment, I can see small runs of 1 to 2 gallons. Use of the 1/4 keg gives me some practical options, particularly if if I can run a low volume project.
There will be a volume at which you will run dry before you get the last of the desirable spirit, but it will be quite small. I doubt you will ever run into trouble.
Playhard wrote:If I had a 1/4 keg system, would I even need to build a pot still, and just use the 1/4 keg for these 1 to 2 gallon projects?
As long as it stays stove top, it should be ok, but if you put an element in it, it needs to be covered at all times.

Be aware that double distilling makes superior product to single runs. With a pot still, especially a small one, fermenting enough to charge your still three or four times to make a good quantity of low wines for a spirit run will fill your drinks cabinet a lot quicker than messing around doing the 'slow singles' I see advocated on forums and Youtube. It gives you three or four times the volume to choose your cut from than from a single run and is far less likely to result in disappointment.
Playhard
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Re: Pot Still Capacity

Post by Playhard »

Kareltje,

Thanks for the response. Just sold virtually all my wine making gear, this summer. Now, I am having some seller's remorse. Distilling is my plan going forward. HA Ha. And I still (no pun intended) get to make my fermented concoctions. Trust me, I have worn out my back hefting 1/2 kegs and cleaning them. Lifting 5 gallon carboys too. But, I still have a small inventory that would support distilling and a 7.5 gallon still. Soooooo much reading to get up to speed. Never soldered stainless to copper or s/s to s/s. I will practice on a small scale, first. I appreciate all your words of wisdom.

I attached a photo of a small 4l mash of corn niblets and invert sugar. Looking to cobble something together to observe the distillation process.

Bill M
hd001.jpg
Last edited by Playhard on Thu Dec 14, 2017 4:52 am, edited 1 time in total.
Playhard
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Re: Pot Still Capacity

Post by Playhard »

NZChris wrote:
Be aware that double distilling makes superior product to single runs. With a pot still, especially a small one, fermenting enough to charge your still three or four times to make a good quantity of low wines for a spirit run will fill your drinks cabinet a lot quicker than messing around doing the 'slow singles' I see advocated on forums and Youtube. It gives you three or four times the volume to choose your cut from than from a single run and is far less likely to result in disappointment.
Thanks for the response. I appreciate the experience you shared. Same with Kareltje, I will practice on a small scale, first. Then, likely upscale to the 1/4 keg. For now, I just need to feed my enthusiasm.

I attached a photo of a small 4l mash of corn niblets and invert sugar. Looking to cobble something together to observe the distillation process.

Bill M
IMG_20171212_181741 (Mobile).jpg
Playhard
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Re: Pot Still Capacity

Post by Playhard »

Kareltje wrote:
And you can not use or make a block to lift kegs or carboys?
Took me two posts to figure out how to use the "Quote" button and respond to you directly. Anyhow, I have punished my back enough that it is clearly complaining. I used to slosh an empty 1/2 keg(s) to clean and rinse them out. Not anymore. A 1/4, however, will be ideal. And the distillate won't be 5 gallons, or 20 liters, heavy.

Bill M
Playhard
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Re: Pot Still Capacity

Post by Playhard »

If I can ask, without derailing the discussion, I still need a practical pot still condenser. There is a thread here, just for pictures. But I can't figure out any sizes that were employed for the worm in a bucket or the liebig condensers. I have no suitable copper at home for either of the 2 types here. I want to fab own, so I will need to go to a big box store. I did go to the local scrap yard, but they had no stock of copper plumbing. I am not tied down to using coiled copper or straight lengths, yet.

Question, is there a preference in simplicity for either the worm or the liebig type condenser? If, I was to use the liebig design, for a 10l still, are there rule of thumb copper pipe id/od and length dimensions for my small scale still? For example: 1/2" tube inside a 3/4" tube by 4' long condensing chamber? Or, is it 1/2" inside a 1" tube ?
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still_stirrin
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Re: Pot Still Capacity

Post by still_stirrin »

Playhard wrote:Question, is there a preference in simplicity for either the worm or the liebig type condenser?
Liebig...definitely. The worm and flake is much, much heavier (bad for a deficient back).
Playhard wrote:If, I was to use the liebig design, for a 10l still, are there rule of thumb copper pipe id/od and length dimensions for my small scale still? For example: 1/2" tube inside a 3/4" tube by 4' long condensing chamber? Or, is it 1/2" inside a 1" tube ?
3/4" over 1/2" will do just fine. Make it at least 30" long to handle your potstill. Make it longer if your potstill riser is larger than 2" OD.
ss
My LM/VM & Potstill: My build thread
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Playhard
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Re: Pot Still Capacity

Post by Playhard »

still_stirrin wrote:
Playhard wrote:Question, is there a preference in simplicity for either the worm or the liebig type condenser?
Liebig...definitely. The worm and flake is much, much heavier (bad for a deficient back).
Playhard wrote:If, I was to use the liebig design, for a 10l still, are there rule of thumb copper pipe id/od and length dimensions for my small scale still? For example: 1/2" tube inside a 3/4" tube by 4' long condensing chamber? Or, is it 1/2" inside a 1" tube ?
3/4" over 1/2" will do just fine. Make it at least 30" long to handle your potstill. Make it longer if your potstill riser is larger than 2" OD.
ss
Excellent. Really appreciate the advice. I see a lot of the liebigs. The info about the riser size vs condenser length is something that hadn't crossed my mind, yet. Thank you. I can make this happen pretty fast.
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goinbroke2
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Re: Pot Still Capacity

Post by goinbroke2 »

To throw my 2 cents at ya;
What I've done is gone from 57L keg on a propane burner, dumping it out when finished etc, etc and a 30L pail with 50ft of 1/2" copper line for a flake stand to a 57L keg on an angle iron frame with wheels and a 1" over 1/2" liebig condenser. While I do lift the 25-30L fermenting pails up to syphon them into the still, this can be easily addressed by putting the pails up high when empty, filling with a garden hose and syphoning into the still when done.

I hate doing things 3-4 times trying to get it right. Or, when I do and I'm done, I encourage others not to do what I've done but go straight to what works.

Do you have a room or a spot you can set up your stuff? I use the top of the washer and dryer for syphoning from but a heavy shelf would be in the future if I wasn't going to move everything to the garage when its completed. I use the 50A dryer plug in and distil in the laundry room. (water/tub/220v electricity/all available) My keg has a drain tap so I can drain it by bucket or if I wanted, into the sump in the floor. If I could leave the buckets fermenting on the washer/dryer I would have to lift anything over 5-10lb's.

Bottom line, if you can't lift, base your set up on gravity. Put everything in place empty(light) and fill/ferment/syphon/distill/drain all down hill in each step.
Numerous 57L kegs, some propane, one 220v electric with stilldragon controller. Keggle for all-Grain, two pot still tops for whisky, a 3" reflux with deflag for vodka. Coming up, a 4" perf plate column. Life is short, make whisky and drag race!
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TDick
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Re: Pot Still Capacity

Post by TDick »

Welcome Down The Rabbit Hole.jpg
Welcome Down The Rabbit Hole.jpg (6.14 KiB) Viewed 1513 times
There a lot more experienced hands here to give advice.
However I was reading a thread last night that discussed using a drill powered pump to move liquid around and I thought I'd share.
Drill Powered Pump.jpg
I sure others have used them and know the pros and cons.
But they are portable and for around $10, it may help solve some of your issues.
Good luck!
:mrgreen:
Playhard
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Re: Pot Still Capacity

Post by Playhard »

goinbroke2 wrote:To throw my 2 cents at ya;
What I've done is gone from 57L keg on a propane burner, dumping it out when finished etc, etc and a 30L pail with 50ft of 1/2" copper line for a flake stand to a 57L keg on an angle iron frame with wheels and a 1" over 1/2" liebig condenser. While I do lift the 25-30L fermenting pails up to syphon them into the still, this can be easily addressed by putting the pails up high when empty, filling with a garden hose and syphoning into the still when done.........
For sure. My photo shows an early rolling carboy stand. Sorry, it is a little cluttered, right now. It has 2 shelves. It will hold 8 x 5 gallon (~20lt) carboys. The stand was used for the carboy brainstorm for one season. Why? Well, once in late summer I noticed a 5 gallon flood of water on the garage floor, except it wasn't water, but wine. I had hard plugged a carboy and the summer heat caused the contents to expand. The bottom of the jug separated cleanly. I stopped using carboys as a general rule and went to s/s 1/2 and 1/4 kegs, whenever I could.

Thereafter, the cart was used as a table to elevate kegs for siphoning. I used an old block and tackle hung from the garage ceiling rafters to hoist the kegs. Might need to put the old process back into action. The cart is on wheels. My garage is a tight fit. My wife is great, as long as she can still park her car in the garage, she is ok with my uses of the space.

I have already ordered a 2" tri-clamp and s/s ferrule. Gonna need to ramp up to using my clean s/s 1/4 keg. Economies of scale, I think they call it.
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Playhard
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Re: Pot Still Capacity

Post by Playhard »

Bamaberry wrote:
Welcome Down The Rabbit Hole.jpg
There a lot more experienced hands here to give advice.
However I was reading a thread last night that discussed using a drill powered pump to move liquid around and I thought I'd share.
Drill Powered Pump.jpg
I sure others have used them and know the pros and cons.
But they are portable and for around $10, it may help solve some of your issues.
Good luck!
:mrgreen:
The title of your first pic is what any novice needs to know in advance - Welcome down the rabbit hole. In my previous post I indicated that my thinking is to ramp up from a 12lt pot to my beer keg 30lt pot . And I have only peeked down the rabbit hole. Thanks for the help.
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