New BokaKob Advice

Other discussions for folks new to the wonderful craft of home distilling.

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Corsaire
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Re: New BokaKob Advice

Post by Corsaire »

A solar still like they use to distill sea water might work but it seems difficult to make one big enough for enough wash to feed a boka.

Depending how far north you are, some people are having succes by leaving their wash outside and freezing it.

But your intro states you already have a pot still?
Just go with that. A good neutral recipe, a strip run and a spirit run is what most people use here with good results.
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Re: New BokaKob Advice

Post by The Baker »

For myself the solar still would be a fun thing.
And it could be used almost continuously with little effort so could maybe produce more than you would expect.

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Re: New BokaKob Advice

Post by Sandslinger »

Expat wrote: Tue Sep 29, 2020 8:00 pm My still is a combo nuclear and hydro powered, I just don't keep them on-site. :lol:
Took me a bit too long to get it, gave me a good chuckle though.

I got one more question. I bought 5 Meter of 6mm copper pipe, that I am going to fill with salt, and double coil. I can only get 5 meter lengths though and I am worried that this might not be long enough, as I see people mentioning all the way up to 7 meters ? Any thoughts ?
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Re: New BokaKob Advice

Post by Sandslinger »

Corsaire wrote: Wed Sep 30, 2020 2:23 am A solar still like they use to distill sea water might work but it seems difficult to make one big enough for enough wash to feed a boka.

Depending how far north you are, some people are having success by leaving their wash outside and freezing it.

But your intro states you already have a pot still?
Just go with that. A good neutral recipe, a strip run and a spirit run is what most people use here with good results.
I should lend a bit of backstory to this. I have a air distiller and a spiral apparatus :oops: that I am using at the moment, The problem is both require constant oversight, With the air distiller I am cleaning out 25 liters in a day 5 liters at a time, but that means I need to spend a entire day inside, which for my fidgety self isn't all that easy. But vastly more important is the fact that my gf objects to the smell. I am threading a fine line keeping the peace at home as it is, which is why I was looking at the solar/condensation still idea.

I know people that use it and it has the nice side-effect of not producing any smell whatsoever, and if you use the 50c heating element you can make it completely un-recognisable to the casual observer. Paint it like a plant pot and make it look like an ornament if you want =). Efficiency and all is important, but nothing is more important than peace in the home :angel: .

The freezing idea sure is interesting for the winter though, I'll have to give that a try =)
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Re: New BokaKob Advice

Post by The Baker »

Sandslinger could you tell me more about the little 'heater type that is used for heating fruits for fermentation that goes to max 122F.'

I hope to make a solar still one day but had never thought of the little heater. Great idea. Thanks.

Afterthought; would that be an aquarium heater or would an aquarium heater do the same job?

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Re: New BokaKob Advice

Post by Sandslinger »

The Baker wrote: Mon Oct 05, 2020 4:45 pm Sandslinger could you tell me more about the little 'heater type that is used for heating fruits for fermentation that goes to max 122F.'

I hope to make a solar still one day but had never thought of the little heater. Great idea. Thanks.

Afterthought; would that be an aquarium heater or would an aquarium heater do the same job?

Geoff
I have previously only found it in one shop that doesn't sell outside my country. It is a immersion heater designed for heating up fruits and purees to speed up enzyme processes, hence I know it is food grade certified.

It looks like this one https://partymanshop.com/heater/heater- ... -130v.html. That one says it is food certified too, the same shop has ones at half the price, but they don't state that they are food certified.

Aquarium heaters typically only go to 35c maximum, and I am not sure if they are food certified(meaning the plastic might break up in ph levels outside its tolerances). Also I haven't tried the condensation distilling, at such a low temperature, but I guess the same principle applies.

The picture i linked earlier is a solar focused version, with the enzyme heater you can make a indoor version.

Get a 25 Litre bucket, place a 10 litre bucket inside that is raised on stilts about 25 cm from the base.(The mash and the heater goes in the inside bucket). Make a false bottom between the stilts and the 10 litre bucket to discourage the condensed alcohol from condensing again.

Make a reasonably tight lid, The shape of the lid determines the strength of the alcohol(consider how the reflux does it) a domed lid will make weaker alcohol than a flat one for example, the maximum you can expect is 50abv, which is much stronger than what I want due to safety precautions so I use something like this https://www.ikea.com/gb/en/p/blanda-bla ... -50057254/.

You can to speed the process up, put a fan to blow on the lid, but it is not required as long as the room the container is in is cooler than 50celcius.


; edited for clarity
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Re: New BokaKob Advice

Post by Yummyrum »

Sandslinger , what you are referring too is called a Bucket still . There is an example in the HD wiki which personally I think should be moved to “What not to use or do “ due to all the plastic in it .
http://homedistiller.org/wiki/index.php/Bucket_still
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Re: New BokaKob Advice

Post by Sandslinger »

Yummyrum wrote: Tue Oct 06, 2020 4:43 am Sandslinger , what you are referring too is called a Bucket still . There is an example in the HD wiki which personally I think should be moved to “What not to use or do “ due to all the plastic in it .
http://homedistiller.org/wiki/index.php/Bucket_still
Yeah the plastic construction is a bit nasty, it works best made in glass or metal, with a metal top though =)
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Re: New BokaKob Advice

Post by Sandslinger »

Anyone know if a 5 meter long 6mm copper coil is enough to make a condenser for a Boka of 120cm. Worried that I won't get enough cooling effect as I saw other people here refer to at least 7 meter coils, which I can't buy where I am.
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Re: New BokaKob Advice

Post by Expat »

Sandslinger wrote: Tue Oct 06, 2020 11:09 am Anyone know if a 5 meter long 6mm copper coil is enough to make a condenser for a Boka of 120cm. Worried that I won't get enough cooling effect as I saw other people here refer to at least 7 meter coils, which I can't buy where I am.
The height of the column isn't really material here, only thing that should matter is how much power (watts) does it need to knock down.

For my first Bok, I rolled a 5m coil and it never had an issue knocking down 3kw of power. YMMV though as water temps, insulation and other factors can impact things. Personally not a fan of coils, pain in the ass to get right and take up too much height; significantly more complicated but I built a crossflow condenser.
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Re: New BokaKob Advice

Post by Yummyrum »

Sandslinger wrote: Tue Oct 06, 2020 11:09 am Anyone know if a 5 meter long 6mm copper coil is enough to make a condenser for a Boka of 120cm. Worried that I won't get enough cooling effect as I saw other people here refer to at least 7 meter coils, which I can't buy where I am.
I used 5m and it ended up about 175mm long from memory .Mine was not close wound , there was about 7mm gap between windings . It will work fine
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Re: New BokaKob Advice

Post by charcoal »

Sandslinger wrote: Mon Oct 05, 2020 3:29 pm
Corsaire wrote: Wed Sep 30, 2020 2:23 am A solar still like they use to distill sea water might work but it seems difficult to make one big enough for enough wash to feed a boka.

Depending how far north you are, some people are having success by leaving their wash outside and freezing it.

But your intro states you already have a pot still?
Just go with that. A good neutral recipe, a strip run and a spirit run is what most people use here with good results.
I should lend a bit of backstory to this. I have a air distiller and a spiral apparatus :oops: that I am using at the moment, The problem is both require constant oversight, With the air distiller I am cleaning out 25 liters in a day 5 liters at a time, but that means I need to spend a entire day inside, which for my fidgety self isn't all that easy. But vastly more important is the fact that my gf objects to the smell. I am threading a fine line keeping the peace at home as it is, which is why I was looking at the solar/condensation still idea.

I know people that use it and it has the nice side-effect of not producing any smell whatsoever, and if you use the 50c heating element you can make it completely un-recognisable to the casual observer. Paint it like a plant pot and make it look like an ornament if you want =). Efficiency and all is important, but nothing is more important than peace in the home :angel: .

The freezing idea sure is interesting for the winter though, I'll have to give that a try =)
My wife used to start my airstill for me on an alarm. After 2.5 hours, I was home and I changed the liquid and collection vessel. I did it in the spare bathroom or laundry as well.
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Re: New BokaKob Advice

Post by Sandslinger »

I am a bit unsure about the type of torch I should get for the soldering of copper ferrule to 54mm coppper pipe.

I was looking at this type https://www.dremel.com/en_US/products/ ... tane-torch. But it seems like it might be a little weak ?

Alternatively I was looking at this bad boy https://www.mytoolshed.co.uk/sievert-2 ... -gas-torch, but is that too hot, I saw some videos that said that if you run too hot, then you can damage the copper itself ?

I've never soldered anything before, so this is going to be a steep learning curve =) I got 2 extra bits of pipe to train on though.
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Re: New BokaKob Advice

Post by Zeotropic »

Sandslinger wrote:I am a bit unsure about the type of torch I should get for the soldering of copper ferrule to 54mm coppper pipe.

I was looking at this type https://www.dremel.com/en_US/products/ ... tane-torch. But it seems like it might be a little weak ?

Alternatively I was looking at this bad boy https://www.mytoolshed.co.uk/sievert-2 ... -gas-torch, but is that too hot, I saw some videos that said that if you run too hot, then you can damage the copper itself ?

I've never soldered anything before, so this is going to be a steep learning curve =) I got 2 extra bits of pipe to train on though.
Harbor freight has one for $20 that is very good. I think it is called something like welder200. It is the best bang for the buck i have found. The next best would be $50 plus.
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Re: New BokaKob Advice

Post by Expat »

Sandslinger wrote: Mon Oct 12, 2020 3:38 pm I am a bit unsure about the type of torch I should get for the soldering of copper ferrule to 54mm coppper pipe.

I was looking at this type https://www.dremel.com/en_US/products/ ... tane-torch. But it seems like it might be a little weak ?

Alternatively I was looking at this bad boy https://www.mytoolshed.co.uk/sievert-2 ... -gas-torch, but is that too hot, I saw some videos that said that if you run too hot, then you can damage the copper itself ?

I've never soldered anything before, so this is going to be a steep learning curve =) I got 2 extra bits of pipe to train on though.
Both look small, any standard propane torch will be what you want.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Bernzomatic ... /202539561
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Re: New BokaKob Advice

Post by zapata »

Sandslinger, If it's only ever gonna be copper parts up to 2" then whatever cheap basic torch is in the hardware store will do. The dremel you linked seems... gimicky? Maybe it's great for jewelry, or some kind of crafts, or, IDK, maybe plumbing too. But it's not the universal cheap plumbers torch.

I'm not familiar with brittish tools at all, but the 2nd one seems both expensive and small? But from the same page, this one seems more like what I suspect most of us have used, and it's cheaper than both your links.
https://www.mytoolshed.co.uk/faithfull- ... blow-torch
Or this one is a bit nicer, and rated for MAP gas if you ever need hotter/quicker (but I don't know ya'll's MAP gas situation, here the tanks are interchangeable, I wouldn't buy a MAP specific torch if you'll only ever be using it on <2" copper)
https://www.mytoolshed.co.uk/faithfull- ... ower-torch
Or this one
https://www.mytoolshed.co.uk/monument-3450g-gas-torch

In the states, a benzomatic is in probably 90% of the garages shops and sheds. Either the basic $15 unit or the slightly fancier $50 MAP compatible swirly flame one. The micro style torches seem to hang out in kitchens and hobby rooms. Maybe they handle plumbing fine, I've just never seen on used for "work", just lighting cigars and scorching creme brule'.
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Re: New BokaKob Advice

Post by Sandslinger »

None of the cheaper variants linked are available in my country, I don't live in the UK I just linked the available types from UK sites so you guys could see what I was choosing between.

The price difference is pretty big between the different types and the better types run over $300 in my country, I dont think I can return them after trying them either so I would really like to know I am buying the right thing =)

The only one I found that specifically says it is rated for 54mm (2inch) pipe is this one https://shop.eriks.be/en/welding-equip ... -0013-mvb/, but I found many cheaper ones, running at 2,2kw or 1900 celcius.

Isn't there a minimum temperature I need the bottle to manage for soft tin soldering of a pipe this large ?. I see some people complaining that they struggle to get it warm enough, when soldering pipes at this width.
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Re: New BokaKob Advice

Post by Expat »

Sandslinger wrote: Thu Oct 15, 2020 5:23 pm None of the cheaper variants linked are available in my country, I don't live in the UK I just linked the available types from UK sites so you guys could see what I was choosing between.

The price difference is pretty big between the different types and the better types run over $300 in my country, I dont think I can return them after trying them either so I would really like to know I am buying the right thing =)

The only one I found that specifically says it is rated for 54mm (2inch) pipe is this one https://shop.eriks.be/en/welding-equip ... -0013-mvb/, but I found many cheaper ones, running at 2,2kw or 1900 celcius.

Isn't there a minimum temperature I need the bottle to manage for soft tin soldering of a pipe this large ?. I see some people complaining that they struggle to get it warm enough, when soldering pipes at this width.
I don't think anything that small is going to have enough heat to get a 2" pipe to temperature.
There has to be plumbers in your country, and they would need the tools to do this work.... No supply stores? Or are you working online only.
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Re: New BokaKob Advice

Post by GNBrews »

Back to Auber EZBoil for just a moment. I have one of those on my electric brewery controller and absolutely love it. The only drawback with it is that it only shows whole degree increments (eg. 80C, 81C, 82C, etc.). They make an even better unit with 1/10-degree resolution in "distilling mode", the DSPR220. It's a few bucks more, but well worth it.

https://www.auberins.com/index.php?main ... cts_id=559

Both the DSPR220 and the EzBoil have an "acceleration set point" which is very handy. The controller will run at full power (or less if you want) until it reaches the set point and then switch to a lower power output and give the controls back over to you with the knob. I set mine to use the full 5500W until it reaches 66C, and then automatically drop the power to 15% (800W) so I can ease the vapor flow up the column. It's very nice.
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Re: New BokaKob Advice

Post by Corsaire »

Expat wrote: Thu Oct 15, 2020 6:54 pm There has to be plumbers in your country, and they would need the tools to do this work.... No supply stores? Or are you working online only.
Plumbers here don't solder anymore. For water and gas lines compression fittings are king.
Took me a long time to find a proper torch, longer still for flux. And I had to pay a lot for it. Hope it'll be worth it!
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Re: New BokaKob Advice

Post by Sandslinger »

Corsaire wrote: Fri Oct 16, 2020 2:58 am
Expat wrote: Thu Oct 15, 2020 6:54 pm There has to be plumbers in your country, and they would need the tools to do this work.... No supply stores? Or are you working online only.
Plumbers here don't solder anymore. For water and gas lines compression fittings are king.
Took me a long time to find a proper torch, longer still for flux. And I had to pay a lot for it. Hope it'll be worth it!
The issue is that all the places professionals buy from are blocked from private purchasing you need to have a Tax registered company to even get in the door. To get the 54mm copper tubing I had to sift through a metal scrap dealers containers for a month, before I got lucky.

I am have a friend that lives outside the country and is still travelling back and forth buy even the 2inch ferrules and bring them to me because they cant be bought here, things like gas bottles is just hopeless to get across so I am kind of stuck with the burners that fit the bottles in my country.

There are some online retailers here and there, that seem to skirt the regulations a little bit, and sell bits and pieces, but their websites are notoriously hard to get a grip on what they are actually selling(perhaps on purpose)

There are things I could order online to my country of course, but I really don't want the attention ordering some of these parts through the mail, and gas parts you just can't order anyways.
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Re: New BokaKob Advice

Post by Sandslinger »

Expat wrote: Thu Oct 15, 2020 6:54 pm
Sandslinger wrote: Thu Oct 15, 2020 5:23 pm None of the cheaper variants linked are available in my country, I don't live in the UK I just linked the available types from UK sites so you guys could see what I was choosing between.

The price difference is pretty big between the different types and the better types run over $300 in my country, I dont think I can return them after trying them either so I would really like to know I am buying the right thing =)

The only one I found that specifically says it is rated for 54mm (2inch) pipe is this one https://shop.eriks.be/en/welding-equip ... -0013-mvb/, but I found many cheaper ones, running at 2,2kw or 1900 celcius.

Isn't there a minimum temperature I need the bottle to manage for soft tin soldering of a pipe this large ?. I see some people complaining that they struggle to get it warm enough, when soldering pipes at this width.
I don't think anything that small is going to have enough heat to get a 2" pipe to temperature.
There has to be plumbers in your country, and they would need the tools to do this work.... No supply stores? Or are you working online only.
Do you know how much kw output I should be aiming for ? If that torch can do 2400 degrees and it isnt enough what is going to be enough ?

I should probably mention that my pipe is in 3 separate parts of 40cm each, and I am thinking to use copper ferrules, welded on to fit them together. So considering each bit is 40cm, I guess the heat loss is going to be much less.
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Re: New BokaKob Advice

Post by Expat »

Sandslinger wrote: Fri Oct 16, 2020 4:25 am
Expat wrote: Thu Oct 15, 2020 6:54 pm
Sandslinger wrote: Thu Oct 15, 2020 5:23 pm None of the cheaper variants linked are available in my country, I don't live in the UK I just linked the available types from UK sites so you guys could see what I was choosing between.

The price difference is pretty big between the different types and the better types run over $300 in my country, I dont think I can return them after trying them either so I would really like to know I am buying the right thing =)

The only one I found that specifically says it is rated for 54mm (2inch) pipe is this one https://shop.eriks.be/en/welding-equip ... -0013-mvb/, but I found many cheaper ones, running at 2,2kw or 1900 celcius.

Isn't there a minimum temperature I need the bottle to manage for soft tin soldering of a pipe this large ?. I see some people complaining that they struggle to get it warm enough, when soldering pipes at this width.
I don't think anything that small is going to have enough heat to get a 2" pipe to temperature.
There has to be plumbers in your country, and they would need the tools to do this work.... No supply stores? Or are you working online only.
Do you know how much kw output I should be aiming for ? If that torch can do 2400 degrees and it isnt enough what is going to be enough ?

I should probably mention that my pipe is in 3 separate parts of 40cm each, and I am thinking to use copper ferrules, welded on to fit them together. So considering each bit is 40cm, I guess the heat loss is going to be much less.
KW is an unusual measurement in my experience when it comes to gas heat, typically its BTU. My concern is that the heating large copper to soldering temperatures requires a large amount of heat. Copper is very efficient at conducting that heat, so if you're only able to heat the pipe slowly its going to be a challenge because the copper will wick it away fast.

To my eyes that unit looks small, but perhaps its just the picture which is deceptive; it does appear to be MAP which is a step up from basic propane. Specifically for large I find that MAP is preferable as the extra heat makes things that much easier to complete. Not required, but nice.

So maybe that would work. Its very hard to judge without knowing more about the tool as well as the gage of the 2" pipe you've got (e.g. DWV, Type M, Type L. or a completely different standard local to your area). At the end of the day you may need to pull the trigger and try to make it work.
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Re: New BokaKob Advice

Post by zapata »

I have done and seen copper soldered over all sorts of stoves and burners from kerosene heaters to camp stoves to electric stoves. Even production professionals use a sort of electric hot plate on a regular basis, there are demo videos I watched on a solder and flux manufacturer's site where they did everything on a hot plate. If it is a pain in the ass to acquire a typical torch, then a camp stove can absolutely be made to work, if you aren't doing fiddly joints close to several others.

One of my earliest memories is my dad running into gramma's house to grab me to watch grandpa resolder granny's copper teakettle. He did it on a heater in the barn. A decade later I watched my dad resolder the same tea kettle with a propane torch. 2 decades later I had inheritted it and resoldered it with mapp gas (only because that was what was already hooked up to the torch). Apparently my family has a history of boiling the kettle dry and melting off the spout. :) Good thing copper is forgiving, in truth we could probably have fixed it on the first wood stove that ever melted it, by my uncle's telling that would be my great grandmother's, and we know they never had any fuel but wood and coal. My uncle says he saw my great grandpa re-solder it right on the wood stove. Which of course makes sense, if it can melt the solder on accident, it can do it on purpose. I know I'm way rambling here, but I find it hilarious that I have a tea kettle, that at least 3, probably 4, maybe more generations of men have been leaving on stoves, pissing their women off, and then having to repair it. Honestly, it's probably for the best because I'm fairly sure this kettle started off with lead solder, and none of it is left by now!

I checked and none of my torches have any readily available energy rating, in btus or watts. In reality, the energy is in the fuel as long as the torch doesn't throttle flow in some way. Any "wide open" propane or butane torch will suffice. But so will any open flame, it's just the torches are easier to control.

So get what you can. If you have to supplement with flame, hair drier or heat gun, so be it.
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Re: New BokaKob Advice

Post by Sandslinger »

zapata wrote: Sat Oct 17, 2020 12:52 am
So get what you can. If you have to supplement with flame, hair drier or heat gun, so be it.
Haha thanks for the chuckle and the reassurance.
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Re: New BokaKob Advice

Post by Sandslinger »

I have another question I hope someone has experience with.

I am looking at two different suppliers, that can provide Ferrules for my 54mm BokaKob. The pipe i sourced is in 3 different parts. I am thinking to use ferrules soldered to the pipe and joined with tri-clamps so I can separate the entire thing into 3 parts for storage.

The two different suppliers I am looking at DistillingUK and StillDragon have different layouts on their ferrules.

Stilldragon ferrules are made so the pipe fits inside the ferrule and rests on a little shelf inside, while DistillingUK ferrules slip inside the pipe.

I guess the latter is going to cause the pipe to narrow a bit round each ferrule is this going to reduce my throughput considerably or cause any other issues.

Does anyone have experience with which is the most stable setup ?

I would actually greatly appreciate any advice on the best way to connect my pot to the pipe. there seems to be so many ways to solve it, but I am struggling to get a sense of the pro's and cons, and once i start cutting the steel lid I guess there is no going back.
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Re: New BokaKob Advice

Post by cob »

Sandslinger wrote: Mon Oct 12, 2020 3:38 pm I am a bit unsure about the type of torch I should get for the soldering of copper ferrule to 54mm coppper pipe.

I was looking at this type https://www.dremel.com/en_US/products/ ... tane-torch. But it seems like it might be a little weak ?

Alternatively I was looking at this bad boy https://www.mytoolshed.co.uk/sievert-2 ... -gas-torch, but is that too hot, I saw some videos that said that if you run too hot, then you can damage the copper itself ?

I've never soldered anything before, so this is going to be a steep learning curve =) I got 2 extra bits of pipe to train on though.
that dremel torch is butane not suitable for anything beyond small electrical work and crème brulee.

any of the bernzomatic ts 2000-8000 series torches will do well and last a lifetime and work with mapp also.
be water my friend
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Re: New BokaKob Advice

Post by zapata »

Sandslinger wrote: Sat Oct 24, 2020 3:50 pm Stilldragon ferrules are made so the pipe fits inside the ferrule and rests on a little shelf inside, while DistillingUK ferrules slip inside the pipe.

I guess the latter is going to cause the pipe to narrow a bit round each ferrule is this going to reduce my throughput considerably or cause any other issues.
The internal ferrules will cause a tiny obstruction in your column. Not enough to worry about from a production perspective. But on a practical level they can be annoyingly in the way if you want to slide something up and down the full column length, like a roll of mesh packing, or any kind of internal hardware that is tight to the OD. OTOH they create a lip that is conveniently perfect for holding up packing retainers, wall wipers, liquid redistributors and the like.

Choose your poison, you will learn to live with either. If I were being neurotic, I would have an internal ferrule at the bottom (to hold a packing support) and an external ferule at the top (offering an unobstructed path for inserting packing. For the middle joint I would choose external, unless you know you want to support something in there. You probably don't, and if you decide you do you'll find some other way around it. The "safest" bet is to go all external, then they can never be in your way, and after all you are still smith and if you need to support something inside the column you are capable of fabricating whatever you want. :lol:
I would actually greatly appreciate any advice on the best way to connect my pot to the pipe. there seems to be so many ways to solve it, but I am struggling to get a sense of the pro's and cons, and once i start cutting the steel lid I guess there is no going back.
Solder a ferrule on the lid (ensuring it is level, square, plumb and sturdy), then drill/cut/punch/file/grind the hole out. If you have a precisely sized punch or high quality hole saw you can make the hole first. But if you put the ferrule on first it will make you less nervous, you will no longer be cutting a lid, you will be removing the shit that is blocking your ferule!
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Yummyrum
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Re: New BokaKob Advice

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zapata wrote: Sat Oct 24, 2020 10:20 pm But if you put the ferrule on first it will make you less nervous, you will no longer be cutting a lid, you will be removing the shit that is blocking your ferule!
Good advise zapata :thumbup: and I like your way of thinking about things :ebiggrin:
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Re: New BokaKob Advice

Post by Sandslinger »

zapata wrote: Sat Oct 24, 2020 10:20 pm
If I were being neurotic, I would have an internal ferrule at the bottom (to hold a packing support) and an external ferule at the top (offering an unobstructed path for inserting packing.

Solder a ferrule on the lid (ensuring it is level, square, plumb and sturdy), then drill/cut/punch/file/grind the hole out. If you have a precisely sized punch or high quality hole saw you can make the hole first. But if you put the ferrule on first it will make you less nervous, you will no longer be cutting a lid, you will be removing the shit that is blocking your ferule!
Thanks, yes I like your reasoning. I think I will go the neurotic choice and go inside pipe for the bottom ferrule, and then use a copper filter to hold my packaging in, and use outside for the rest, letting the pipe be smooth.

I was looking at getting a little sight glass with a gin basket in it at a later date, but that's easy with the wonderful tri-clamp system.

For attaching the pot to the still the owner of distillingUK recomended this little guy https://www.distillinguk.uk/wp-content/ ... -copy.jpg . It looks like it might save me from having to solder steel against copper, which as I understand can be a big pain in the ass.
I have a guy who could help me weld the thing onto the lid, but having the part that connects the two be separable really appeals to me, both for storage purposes, and for the pot to look more innocuous when I do have to move it in public.

Thanks for your help !
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