Idea for a Pot still head
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Idea for a Pot still head
Sorry that I do not have a better drawing right now, but I wanted to know if there was any thing wrong with the theory work.
basically 2inch riser at about 14-18 inches into a 2 inch 90, then a 4-6 inch run, then another 2 inch 90 that reduces to 3/4. then a 4-6 inch run into a 3/4 inch 45 that eventually runs into a 1 inch over 3/4 condenser at about 18ish or so inches in length.
Thanks.
T
- Swedish Pride
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Re: Idea for a Pot still head
i have 32" condenser and and other few inches would not gone astray when I strip hard.
just a riser and then a 90 them down to 3/4 with an 90 triclamp or so you can adjust the angle will suffice.
just a riser and then a 90 them down to 3/4 with an 90 triclamp or so you can adjust the angle will suffice.
Last edited by Swedish Pride on Mon Oct 17, 2016 6:51 am, edited 1 time in total.
Don't be a dick
Re: Idea for a Pot still head
18" Liebig might be a little small.
Re: Idea for a Pot still head
Thanks, this is why I ask....
I also have, from my brewing days, a 25foot 3/8 inch counterflow chiller that I could work in as the condenser as well.
More reading on using a couterflow chiller has revealed some downfalls of the idea
I also have, from my brewing days, a 25foot 3/8 inch counterflow chiller that I could work in as the condenser as well.
More reading on using a couterflow chiller has revealed some downfalls of the idea
Re: Idea for a Pot still head
HERE is a proven pot still design that many members have built... A 24" - 36" liebig would be better than 18"... I run a 28" on a 7.5 gallon pot still...
Re: Idea for a Pot still head
Thanks, I know I have a way to go, but I am getting there.....
Re: Idea for a Pot still head
Toss in a union so the liebig is adjustable
- still_stirrin
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Re: Idea for a Pot still head
+1.C2H5O5 wrote:Toss in a union so the liebig is adjustable
And you won't need the 2nd 2" 90* elbow...it's wasted money. Just put a swing joint in with the union and you'll be able to angle your Liebig as needed.
And I would recommend using a 1" union. Reduce from your 2" 90* elbow to 1" pipe and into the union. Then, out of the union a short piece of 1" to a 1" 90* elbow. Then, out of that you can reduce to what ever you need for your Liebig vapor tube, but not smaller than 1/2".
Stepping down the sizes "gracefully" will help your vapor flow stay more stable through the run. Using a 1" union makes your potstill head more modular in case you want to add a thumper inline in the future (just thinking ahead).
ss
My LM/VM & Potstill: My build thread
My Cadco hotplate modification thread: Hotplate Build
My stock pot gin still: stock pot potstill
My 5-grain Bourbon recipe: Special K
My Cadco hotplate modification thread: Hotplate Build
My stock pot gin still: stock pot potstill
My 5-grain Bourbon recipe: Special K
Re: Idea for a Pot still head
Took a couple pics that may help
You can use a smaller union, my Liebig is going to be 6' so I decided on a beefier union and to reduce after the elbow
.
With Liebig parts
Just make sure to position the union so that the UNION tightens as the Liebig is lowered
You can use a smaller union, my Liebig is going to be 6' so I decided on a beefier union and to reduce after the elbow
.
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Re: Idea for a Pot still head
I got one of these,
a bit extra work, but worth it to me
a bit extra work, but worth it to me
Don't be a dick
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Re: Idea for a Pot still head
Excellent! Triclamp trumps a union every timeSwedish Pride wrote:I got one of these,
a bit extra work, but worth it to me
LM Still Operating Instructions
Cranky's New Distiller's Advice
Using Google Search
Drinking Rum before noon makes you a Pirate not an alcoholic.
Cranky's New Distiller's Advice
Using Google Search
Drinking Rum before noon makes you a Pirate not an alcoholic.
Re: Idea for a Pot still head
I want to thank everyone for all the help so far.
I may have missed it, but is there a Pro/Con thread about using 15g kegs as a boiler?
The main issue it seems to me would be emptying and cleaning.
To empty I guess I could just rack back out of it.
Right now I am having a hard time finding a place that is cost effective to do any modifications.
This will determine my way ahead. Really thinking that I just want to bolt a 2 inch pot to the keg and direct fire....saves a tone of money and hassle.
Thanks again.
T
I may have missed it, but is there a Pro/Con thread about using 15g kegs as a boiler?
The main issue it seems to me would be emptying and cleaning.
To empty I guess I could just rack back out of it.
Right now I am having a hard time finding a place that is cost effective to do any modifications.
This will determine my way ahead. Really thinking that I just want to bolt a 2 inch pot to the keg and direct fire....saves a tone of money and hassle.
Thanks again.
T
- Swedish Pride
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Re: Idea for a Pot still head
if you stick a fillport and a drain on em they are fairly foolproof, make the fillport 4" if you have girly hands or 6" if you have big mittens and you feel there is need to get inside of it to clean.
I have a 4" and use it for filling the keg, if I was inclined to clean the inside it would be a hassle to retch properly
I have a 4" and use it for filling the keg, if I was inclined to clean the inside it would be a hassle to retch properly
Don't be a dick
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Re: Idea for a Pot still head
I run gas and have no drain. I normally run ten to twelve gallons at a time and usually wait till the next day to dump. I just set it from the burner to a trashcan dolley once its cooled some and roll it to the edge of the shop and just pour it out.
Remember not to blow yourself up,you only get to forget once!
Deo Vendice
Never eat Mexican food north or east of Dallas tx!
Deo Vendice
Never eat Mexican food north or east of Dallas tx!
Re: Idea for a Pot still head
I am reaching out to a few local welders asking for the following:
2 inch ferrule
1.5 inch ferrule
2 (two) female 1/2 NPT couplings.
Depending on the cost, I might just have to fill/clean/dump/rack out of the top opening....
I think at one point I was WAY WAY OVERTHINKING what I needed, got all caught up in the bling.....
T
2 inch ferrule
1.5 inch ferrule
2 (two) female 1/2 NPT couplings.
Depending on the cost, I might just have to fill/clean/dump/rack out of the top opening....
I think at one point I was WAY WAY OVERTHINKING what I needed, got all caught up in the bling.....
T
Re: Idea for a Pot still head
You just dumping at the shop? How long before the smell goes away? Anyone run likker knows that hot slop smell. Dig you a hole with a pto post hole diger just keep it open an put a lid of some kind on it. Dump lime every so often.
So I'm tole
So I'm tole
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Re: Idea for a Pot still head
It definately has a smell! +1 on the hole. If you live in the country finately invest in a pig or two to dispose of the grains also.
Remember not to blow yourself up,you only get to forget once!
Deo Vendice
Never eat Mexican food north or east of Dallas tx!
Deo Vendice
Never eat Mexican food north or east of Dallas tx!
Re: Idea for a Pot still head
so looking into having my brother weld up a keg for me.
Is the $50 price difference between a 6 inch triclamp and a 4 inch triclamp worth it?
Is the $50 price difference between a 6 inch triclamp and a 4 inch triclamp worth it?
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Re: Idea for a Pot still head
Tape measure your bicep. Thats the defining limitation
Remember not to blow yourself up,you only get to forget once!
Deo Vendice
Never eat Mexican food north or east of Dallas tx!
Deo Vendice
Never eat Mexican food north or east of Dallas tx!
- still_stirrin
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Re: Idea for a Pot still head
$50 difference for clamp, cap, and ferrule? Heck of a deal, I'd say.TxBrewing wrote:Is the $50 price difference between a 6 inch triclamp and a 4 inch triclamp worth it?
ss
My LM/VM & Potstill: My build thread
My Cadco hotplate modification thread: Hotplate Build
My stock pot gin still: stock pot potstill
My 5-grain Bourbon recipe: Special K
My Cadco hotplate modification thread: Hotplate Build
My stock pot gin still: stock pot potstill
My 5-grain Bourbon recipe: Special K
Re: Idea for a Pot still head
Parts List:
EDPM gasket - (is this what I should be using? PTFE or Silicone?)
Clamp
Tall ferrule
reducer to 2 inch
4 inch - 54.90 Shipped
6 inch 100.45 Shipped
Looks like the 4 inch wins
T
EDPM gasket - (is this what I should be using? PTFE or Silicone?)
Clamp
Tall ferrule
reducer to 2 inch
4 inch - 54.90 Shipped
6 inch 100.45 Shipped
Looks like the 4 inch wins
T
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Re: Idea for a Pot still head
Silicone wrapped with teflon plumbers tape seals great and keeps silicone out of vapor contact.wrap the shi.....crap out of it.
Remember not to blow yourself up,you only get to forget once!
Deo Vendice
Never eat Mexican food north or east of Dallas tx!
Deo Vendice
Never eat Mexican food north or east of Dallas tx!
Re: Idea for a Pot still head
Trying to get my parts list together for the boiler conversion so I can order by Friday, the list so far
1x 1/2 coupler - bottom drain
3x 4 inch gasket
3x 2 inch gasket
3x 1.5 inch gasket
1x 4 inch tall ferrule
1x 4x2 inch cap style reducer
1x 4 inch TC Clamp
1x 2 inch clamp
1x 1.5 inch ferrule - heating element
I all ready have the 1.5 inch TC Clamps.
Looks like less than $80 shipped
Does the list and the price look right?
1x 1/2 coupler - bottom drain
3x 4 inch gasket
3x 2 inch gasket
3x 1.5 inch gasket
1x 4 inch tall ferrule
1x 4x2 inch cap style reducer
1x 4 inch TC Clamp
1x 2 inch clamp
1x 1.5 inch ferrule - heating element
I all ready have the 1.5 inch TC Clamps.
Looks like less than $80 shipped
Does the list and the price look right?
Re: Idea for a Pot still head
Ordered some of the parts for the boiler build, that should be complete after Thanksgiving
Went to a big box home improvement store to look at copper fittings and pipe for a 3/4 x 1/2 inch condenser
I have never soldered copper before but for some reason I thought the fittings would be slip joint style but all they seemed to have was butt style
Is that right?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Went to a big box home improvement store to look at copper fittings and pipe for a 3/4 x 1/2 inch condenser
I have never soldered copper before but for some reason I thought the fittings would be slip joint style but all they seemed to have was butt style
Is that right?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
- still_stirrin
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Re: Idea for a Pot still head
What do you mean by, "butt style"? By "slip joint", I assume you mean hub-style ends.TxBrewing wrote:...for some reason I thought the fittings would be slip joint style but all they seemed to have was butt style...Is that right?
Copper plumbing fittings at the big box stores are most typically solder style fittings, either with a hub (or bell end) or a "street-style" end which is the same OD as the pipe size would be. Street fittings insert into a hub for soldering.
Most of the 1" OD or larger fittings are all hub-type fittings. You may be able to find some 90* street elbows, with a hub on one side and the street end on the other. It allows a close connection between fittings, if needed.
ss
My LM/VM & Potstill: My build thread
My Cadco hotplate modification thread: Hotplate Build
My stock pot gin still: stock pot potstill
My 5-grain Bourbon recipe: Special K
My Cadco hotplate modification thread: Hotplate Build
My stock pot gin still: stock pot potstill
My 5-grain Bourbon recipe: Special K
- still_stirrin
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Re: Idea for a Pot still head
If you've never soldered copper fittings before, it easy to learn.
Be sure to use lead-free solder and water soluble flux. Get some of the sanding cloth (kinda like emory cloth) and flux brushes when you're in the plumbing department. Also, pick up a 3/4" and 1/2" fitting brush for roughing up the finish of the fittings' hubs.
So, when you've measured and cut your pipe to length, use the sanding cloth to clean and rough up the end of the pipe where the fitting hubs will mate with the pipe. Use the fitting brush or a bit of sanding cloth to clean and rough up the fitting bell inside. Use the flux brush and apply a light coat of flux to the inside of the hub AND the outside of the pipe. Then insert the pipe into the hub.
When you apply heat to the joint, point the torch flame to the hub on the FAR SIDE of the joint. Let it heat a bit and you'll see the flux simmer a little and draw into the joint. Then, touch the solder on the NEARSIDE of the joint at the edge of the hub (where the pipe enters the hub). The solder will melt and be pulled into the joint. You don't need a lot of solder as excess solder will just drip around the pipe and off the other side. It can be drawn into the hub and puddle inside the fitting too.
When the solder has been drawn into the joint, you'll see the silver ring around the hub/pipe joint, and you can then remove the heat. Let the joint cool for a few seconds until the solder hardens. If you move the pipe or fitting too soon, it can cause your joint to leak.
Always wipe the joint down with a damp cloth to remove excess flux while it is still warm. You'll be making plumbing joints like a "pro" in a heartbeat.
One big tip....always clean any joints (hub & pipe) that you're going to solder. Use the sanding cloth and/or steel fitting brushes. It'll help your joints to be solid and leak-free from the "get-go".
ss
p.s. - If you are going to buy a torch, get a MAPP torch. MAPP gas burns just a little hotter than propane so you'll heat up large copper fittings faster/better. Its worth the investment.
Be sure to use lead-free solder and water soluble flux. Get some of the sanding cloth (kinda like emory cloth) and flux brushes when you're in the plumbing department. Also, pick up a 3/4" and 1/2" fitting brush for roughing up the finish of the fittings' hubs.
So, when you've measured and cut your pipe to length, use the sanding cloth to clean and rough up the end of the pipe where the fitting hubs will mate with the pipe. Use the fitting brush or a bit of sanding cloth to clean and rough up the fitting bell inside. Use the flux brush and apply a light coat of flux to the inside of the hub AND the outside of the pipe. Then insert the pipe into the hub.
When you apply heat to the joint, point the torch flame to the hub on the FAR SIDE of the joint. Let it heat a bit and you'll see the flux simmer a little and draw into the joint. Then, touch the solder on the NEARSIDE of the joint at the edge of the hub (where the pipe enters the hub). The solder will melt and be pulled into the joint. You don't need a lot of solder as excess solder will just drip around the pipe and off the other side. It can be drawn into the hub and puddle inside the fitting too.
When the solder has been drawn into the joint, you'll see the silver ring around the hub/pipe joint, and you can then remove the heat. Let the joint cool for a few seconds until the solder hardens. If you move the pipe or fitting too soon, it can cause your joint to leak.
Always wipe the joint down with a damp cloth to remove excess flux while it is still warm. You'll be making plumbing joints like a "pro" in a heartbeat.
One big tip....always clean any joints (hub & pipe) that you're going to solder. Use the sanding cloth and/or steel fitting brushes. It'll help your joints to be solid and leak-free from the "get-go".
ss
p.s. - If you are going to buy a torch, get a MAPP torch. MAPP gas burns just a little hotter than propane so you'll heat up large copper fittings faster/better. Its worth the investment.
My LM/VM & Potstill: My build thread
My Cadco hotplate modification thread: Hotplate Build
My stock pot gin still: stock pot potstill
My 5-grain Bourbon recipe: Special K
My Cadco hotplate modification thread: Hotplate Build
My stock pot gin still: stock pot potstill
My 5-grain Bourbon recipe: Special K
Re: Idea for a Pot still head
The fittings I found do not slip into each other like PVC fittings do (slip joint)still_stirrin wrote:What do you mean by, "butt style"? By "slip joint", I assume you mean hub-style ends.TxBrewing wrote:...for some reason I thought the fittings would be slip joint style but all they seemed to have was butt style...Is that right?
Copper plumbing fittings at the big box stores are most typically solder style fittings, either with a hub (or bell end) or a "street-style" end which is the same OD as the pipe size would be. Street fittings insert into a hub for soldering.
Most of the 1" OD or larger fittings are all hub-type fittings. You may be able to find some 90* street elbows, with a hub on one side and the street end on the other. It allows a close connection between fittings, if needed.
ss
the just butt up to each other.
I need to do more investigating....
Thanks for the instruction for how to solder and the tip for map gass, will look into it
T
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Re: Idea for a Pot still head
This torch kicks ass, and the fuel is cheap to buy at any Asian restaurant supply store(about a dollar a can). I used one for all my 4" copper to stainless joints
https://www.amazon.com/Iwatani-Cooking- ... B00BBJC1CY" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
OVZ
https://www.amazon.com/Iwatani-Cooking- ... B00BBJC1CY" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
OVZ
Re: Idea for a Pot still head
Ok, so this will be the thread for my still build, and it will take a few months to get it completed, not sure if I can rename the thread or not, but either way.....
Went to a different home improvement store and they had a much better selection of copper fittings.
So the idea is to use a 24 inch section go 3/4 pipe as the outer jacket with a 1/2 inch product line.
I should be able to drill out the stops in the 3/4 x 3/4 x 1/2 Tee and rune the 1/2 pipe through them so that the only fittings that I need for the condenser are the 2 tees.
I now later I will need to figure out the water connections and the connection of the condenser to the still head, but I thought it would be best to wait until I get that built.
The only other option I am thinking about now is possibly moving up in size to a 3/4 by 1 or 3/4 by 1 1/2 unit.
T
Went to a different home improvement store and they had a much better selection of copper fittings.
So the idea is to use a 24 inch section go 3/4 pipe as the outer jacket with a 1/2 inch product line.
I should be able to drill out the stops in the 3/4 x 3/4 x 1/2 Tee and rune the 1/2 pipe through them so that the only fittings that I need for the condenser are the 2 tees.
I now later I will need to figure out the water connections and the connection of the condenser to the still head, but I thought it would be best to wait until I get that built.
The only other option I am thinking about now is possibly moving up in size to a 3/4 by 1 or 3/4 by 1 1/2 unit.
T
-
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Re: Idea for a Pot still head
Easiest way to build a Liebig:
Home depot and lowes sell 3&4' lengths of 3/4" and1"
Buy a four foot length of 3/4" and a 3' length of 1"
You wont ever regret building it that size.
The t fitting: yes you can sand the stops out ,or you can get a "repair t" its made to slide thru. No cuts necicary
Home depot and lowes sell 3&4' lengths of 3/4" and1"
Buy a four foot length of 3/4" and a 3' length of 1"
You wont ever regret building it that size.
The t fitting: yes you can sand the stops out ,or you can get a "repair t" its made to slide thru. No cuts necicary
Last edited by jb-texshine on Sun Nov 06, 2016 7:09 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Remember not to blow yourself up,you only get to forget once!
Deo Vendice
Never eat Mexican food north or east of Dallas tx!
Deo Vendice
Never eat Mexican food north or east of Dallas tx!