I'm putting together my first design and was wondering if I could get your feedback. A general description of the components is below. A complete parts list with links is at the very bottom.
Boiler:
15.5 gallon ss keg, inverted
6" furrule professionally installed by welder
5.5kw, 220v electric immersion heating element. Ferrule installed by welder
Yeeco SCR
2" ball valve for drainage installed on the original neck
Column
6" -> 3" reducer
3" 90° bend
3" 45° bend
3" -> 3/4" reducer
3/4" ferrule -> 1/2" npt reducer
Condenser
Liebig; 3/4" over 1/2", 36" of which will be jacketed. I want to try to use recirculated water so I need this to be pretty long. I may add a radiator for the cooling water.
Any problems with this design in general? Should I be concerned about not having a column and installing a bend directly off the boiler? For instance, will puking be more of a problem?
I like that Dernord heating element. It looks like it was “point designed” for our purpose.
Reading through your spreadsheet, it looks like you’ve got all of the major items covered. But don’t forget the solder and solder flux on your “wish list”. You will have some soldering to do.
Also, you might consider wheels (castors) for the bottom of your keg/boiler. It’ll make it easier to move about, especially when full of wash.
And I didn’t see the makings for a parrot on your list....not that you need one...nor do I recommend making one. I just didn’t see it on your list.
ss
edit to add: Instead of silicone gaskets, order PTFE. Silicone is not the correct material to use on a still.
Word of caution. Those Dernord elements actually pull 6k watts, not 5.5. Read the comments. I know, because I bought one three weeks ago to replace my camco ( old style that could rust), wired it up, and I was only using 10 gauge wire, and the system overloaded. Run 8 gauge to the element. It's great to have the extra power, if your prepared for it. I had to return mine for my purposes to avoid a fire. Damn shame, lovely element.
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ShineonCrazyDiamond wrote:Word of caution. Those Dernord elements actually pull 6k watts, not 5.5. Read the comments. I know, because I bought one three weeks ago to replace my camco ( old style that could rust), wired it up, and I was only using 10 gauge wire, and the system overloaded. Run 8 gauge to the element. It's great to have the extra power, if your prepared for it. I had to return mine for my purposes to avoid a fire. Damn shame, lovely element.
I use those exclusively. When cold, they pull around 5.5 KW, but due to a negative temperature coefficient, when they get to the boil temperature they do tend to pull about 6KW at full power. I think that this is a good thing when stripping. On spirit runs, I use a controller so no big deal.
still_stirrin wrote:...But don’t forget the solder and solder flux on your “wish list”. You will have some soldering to do.
...
And I didn’t see the makings for a parrot on your list....not that you need one...nor do I recommend making one. I just didn’t see it on your list.
ss
edit to add: Instead of silicone gaskets, order PTFE. Silicone is not the correct material to use on a still.
Thanks for all of the suggestions! Can I ask why you don't recommend making a parrot? That was going to be my weekend project so I could practice my soldering before building my condenser.
ShineonCrazyDiamond wrote:Word of caution. Those Dernord elements actually pull 6k watts, not 5.5. Read the comments. I know, because I bought one three weeks ago to replace my camco ( old style that could rust), wired it up, and I was only using 10 gauge wire, and the system overloaded. Run 8 gauge to the element. It's great to have the extra power, if your prepared for it. I had to return mine for my purposes to avoid a fire. Damn shame, lovely element.
Thanks for the notice! I might put an ammeter inline so I can track how much juice it's pulling.
A few more quick questions if y'all don't mind. First, what type of union is used to connect the condenser to the threaded connector on the lyne arm / column? Would something like this work? https://www.homedepot.com/p/1-in-Copper ... /204620586
Finally, what type of connections do you use for the coolant lines on the liebig tee?
Maybe consider a Union rather than NTP to connect the condenser. Easier to take apart/re-connect and I think they last longer.
Have you done any checking on the size of 1/2" liebig you need for a strip with up to 6K watts? Seems like it may not be enough to run at full power. I'm not positive, so please double check.
OtisT wrote:Maybe consider a Union rather than NTP to connect the condenser. Easier to take apart/re-connect and I think they last longer.
Have you done any checking on the size of 1/2" liebig you need for a strip with up to 6K watts? Seems like it may not be enough to run at full power. I'm not positive, so please double check.
Good catch Otis. Indeed, it may be short for 5.5k-6kW. I always run shotguns, so my "length" isn't as critical...(it's all about the "girth", right?).
perfect. If you can't afford triclover, those unions are "the shiznitz".
telefonica wrote:Finally, what type of connections do you use for the coolant lines on the liebig tee?
I use sweat adapters and brass hose fittings so I can connect a standard stainless steel braided washer hose hookup. When the water is hot, the overbraid helps to protect a garden hose which flow back to the garden.
OtisT wrote:Maybe consider a Union rather than NTP to connect the condenser. Easier to take apart/re-connect and I think they last longer.
Have you done any checking on the size of 1/2" liebig you need for a strip with up to 6K watts? Seems like it may not be enough to run at full power. I'm not positive, so please double check.
Good point. I wasn't expecting to run at full power after bringing it to boil, maybe something more near 2.5kw. But even still, I should probably upsize to a 1" over 3/4" condenser. Has the added benefit of eliminating the threaded reducer and I can just use a triclamp to connect to the 3" -> 3/4" reducer.
OtisT wrote:Maybe consider a Union rather than NTP to connect the condenser. Easier to take apart/re-connect and I think they last longer.
Have you done any checking on the size of 1/2" liebig you need for a strip with up to 6K watts? Seems like it may not be enough to run at full power. I'm not positive, so please double check.
Good point. I wasn't expecting to run at full power after bringing it to boil, maybe something more near 2.5kw. But even still, I should probably upsize to a 1" over 3/4" condenser. Has the added benefit of eliminating the threaded reducer and I can just use a triclamp to connect to the 3" -> 3/4" reducer.
Sounds like a good choice. For only a few extra $ the 3/4” will double the volume/dwell time along with more surface area. I find 1 1/4” over 3/4 more forgiving, but lots of folks are ok with the 1” over 3/4”.