New Easy Still with adjustable thermostat.

[SiliconJaguar]

OK, I've just started a second batch to try and sus out my 2006 Yeast and yeast food supplies better.

This one is...

20 Litres of rain (tank) water.
5Kg of Raw sugar.
4 tea spoons of White Varietal yeast (Nov2006 Batch) - 18% Alc, 7-35 Deg C tolerance (When new).
4 tea spoons of Biocibus (nutrient) - 2006 Batch.
4 tea spoons of DAP - 2006 Batch.
Wash temperature is sitting at about 30-32 deg C. We are back to hot days as the rain has gone for now.

I re hydrated the yeast for 30 minutes this time in a glass jar with the lid loose. Half a teaspoon each of Biocibus, DAP, & sugar.
It froffed up very nicely which tends to make me believe that the yeast is still fine???

I stirred the raw sugar in well and even used a jug of boiling water to dissolve it all.

2 hours later the air trap is burping but nothing fantastic. Maybe one burp every 30-60 seconds.

I'll see how active it is tomorrow.

.-.-.

[SiliconJaguar]

OK, I've currently got two washes on the go.

The first failure wash which I added 4 teaspoons of yeast, DAP, Nutrient to tonight.
And the second wash as per the last message (5kg sugar).

Neither seem to be doing much percolating. It's been several hours now and both seem to have stopped dead.
The current temperature here is 28 deg C.

I'm starting to wonder if it's not so much the yeast as the nutrients? The DAP and Biocibus? Maybe the yeast needs feeding?

The first wash is expendable now in my opinion and I'm happy to experiment with it.
What can I grab out of the kitchen cupboard to add to the wash to try and feed the yeast to see if it takes off again?

I am also considering throwing some bakers yeast in it from the pantry that I have sitting there to see what that does also.

What do you think?

I'd like to sus this out and know what's going on before going nuts and ordering $200 of Yeast & nutrients etc from the wine making suppliers again.
.-.-.

[SiliconJaguar]

Just had a look in the cupboard.

No bakers yeast. I thought I had some but I don't. I will buy some tomorrow.

But I do have.

- Polenta (powdered dry corn).
- Bi-Carb Soda.
- Epsom Salts.
- Vegemite / Marmite.
- Arrowroot

Tomorrow I can buy anything useful from the department store just let me know.

I have heard that Milo is useful as a yeast food? Is this true?

.-.-.

[rad14701]

SiliconJaguar, had I known you were going to attempt dicking around with that old yeast some more I would have offered up the following suggestion...

Rather than relying on the old turbo yeast for the active yeast colony you would be better off boiling the turbo yeast and only using it for the nutrient component... The boiled yeast would have added essential vitamin B and a few other minor vitamins and minerals to the rest of what the turbo yeast mixture contains... Then you could use plain bakers yeast to do the actual work... Several members have used this same method to use up otherwise worthless turbo yeast... Simply measure out the turbo yeast like it's any other nutrient, at a rate of about a tablespoon per gallon at most...

[SiliconJaguar]

Hi, Back again. The site seemed to be down today for some time for some strange reason.

I think the yeast is OK actually. I think I simply overloaded the first batch with too much sugar as you have already suggested.

The second batch I put in with only 5 Kilo sugar has been bubbling away quiet nice all day today.
The air lock burping about once every second or quicker.

We'll see how things go as the week progresses.

Oh and the yeast isn't turbo yeast. It's a quiet expensive 500gram packet from a professional wine industry supplier.

When I rang him on the phone to discuss buying some newer product he told me that the yeast I am using they have sent for testing 4 years after production and it still shows a higher cell count then most of the modern products have from new. It was quiet a good yeast back in the day.

I'm actually wondering about trying to make it reproduce and then dry it and store it to keep the strain going?
I believe that is possible, but I don't know how complex the process is?

I'll let you know how this second batch goes and if I get the normal yield of alcohol when distilling.

Oh and Monday ish I'll try and find time to split the first wash in half and add water to both to see if I can continue the fermentation through further as you suggested.

Thanks again for all the good advice.
.-.-.

[rad14701]

SiliconJaguar, the site was down for maintenance judging by comments made by Uncle Jesse last night...

As for the yeast, I highly doubt anyone has been doing viability tests on such old yeast as you have, but you never know... I'd be more apt to think someone was stringing you along in an effort to retain your business...

To be honest, with the low price of bulk bakers yeast and the success most folks are having with it I see no reason to be attempting to propagate and maintain your own yeast... I tried years ago, back during the home wine making boon, but finally gave up... I can buy 2 - 1 pound vacuum sealed bricks of Fleischmann's active dry yeast for under $5USD any day of the week at Sam's Club so why would I bother with anything else...??? I've pushed it to well beyond 14% (closer to 20%) by accident and still had no resulting off tastes or smells... All I ended up with was some extra time to ferment to dry, which would be the case with any yeast strain...

Keep us posted on your progress...

[forrestgump]

Hi SiliconJ,

$50 for 500gms of yeast? Bloody Hell.

I was feeling gypped because I paid $4 for 280gms of Bakers Yeast at Woolies last week. I am jealous of the Americans who seem to be paying about $5 / Kg at "Sams". I haven't yet found a cheap bulk supplier here. However, when a 20l wash only uses 70gm of bakers yeast it is not a huge deal.

Like you, we have had weather all over the place in the last couple of weeks. However, during that time I ran a Birdwatchers ferment with no problems at all. I didn't use heating at all. In fact it was in an open shed. Went through to completion and distilled out clean, clear and pure at 90%.

[SiliconJaguar]

Hi Forrestgump, Yep I bought the wine yeast and other supplies back in 2006 when I first got interested in distilling.
I found it hard at the time to get much of anything locally cheap in bulk. Plus I was new at it all and honestly didn't have a clue.

I mainly bought the wine yeast due to it's high tolerances both temperature and alcohol. I figured at the time it would make it harder for for me to stuff things up.

Anyhow I have the yeast now so if it's going to do the job still I might as well use it up. We'll see how this second wash goes.

I hadn't bothered with bakers yeast since I was under the impression it doesn't have a very high tolerance to alcohol?

Also back in the day I found the wine supplier reasonably cheap for other products like DAP and charcoal (for filtering).
So I spent I think it was about $120 back then and got quiet a few item's in bulk to see me through. Including some steralising products.

Even now I don't know a good source of DAP other then the wine suppliers once again. But they have wised up a bit and now the smallest amount you can buy is 5Kg.

When the wine yeast was new 1 - 2 tea spoons was easily enough to do 20 litres so the half a kilo went a long way.

By the look of it this second wash will run fine. I think i just overloaded the first with too much sugar.

I also have about 20 litres of molasses here that I used to give to the horse. But it's sat since about 2006 as well. I ran some out of the tap into a glass, it still smell's, looks, & tastes the same. I wonder how well this stuff keeps, and if I can use it up in a few washes? If so how much molasses (cups) & raw sugar (Kg's) should I apply to 20 litres of rain water?

I may try some bakers yeast in one of the next runs to see how it compares to the old wine yeast.

Probably my next big buy should be a decent still. The air still is easy for the counter top in the kitchen but I am very aware of the poor results it produces compared to a proper water cooled reflux still.
Probably my biggest problem is finding a spot to set up. As specially since I would need a couple of plastic 44 gallon drums and a pump to circulate the cooling water. Once again, why I've stuck with the air still to date.

I'd also like to find a decent source for oak chips and some bundy rum, vanilla galiano, & other essences.
Have been looking at the smugglers distilling shop online for some of these things.
Chasing a fuselex inline charcoal filter as well. To date I haven't been filtering anything.
I figured I'd do a strip run, filter that and then run it through again (double distil).

Anyhow, it's all good fun. Glad I decided to have another go at it.
.-.-.

[forrestgump]

Hi again siliconj,

I bought myself the fuselex wall mounted SS filter. I actually had quite a bit of difficulty in getting it because everybody wanted to sell me the plastic one. I had to pay twice as much for the SS one but I figure that the cost will soon be forgotten.

[SiliconJaguar]

Hi, Yea. That's the way I look at it too. It's a good investment. Stainless is forever basically.

Same as when I buy stainless stirrup irons and bits etc for the horse.

The Fuselex inline filter is about $60 including postage so not too bad for a one of life buy.

Now back to my current washes.

The second 5Kg one has stopped bubbling as of last night.
I tasted it and it tastes slightly bitter so I believe all the sugar has been used up this time?
Funny though after I disturbed it it started to bubble again!.

Also the first was that had 8Kg sugar in it has all of a sudden started to bubble again this morning. Weird!

After I distil these two off I'll make a decision as to weather to try some bakers yeast or not.
If the old wine yeast still looks to be working (2nd wash) I may do one of each.

I'll let you know how much alcohol I get out of this second 4Kg one soon.
.-.-.

[SiliconJaguar]

I ran 4 Litres from the second 4kg raw sugar wash through the still today.

I only got 300 Mills at approximately 40% alcohol.

Basically exactly the same as what happened the first time.

Also it went very quickly from clear to muddied at the end of the flow.

Normally I would get about 1 Litre alcohol from 4 litres wash.

Normally I would be able to get three easy cuts front, middle, & end.
However it dropped off very fast and just ran rubbish through .

Normally the still starts flowing 30 minutes after started and hits the tails about 30 minutes later.
The whole process taking basically a hour.

Currently It starts flowing rubbish through about 15 minutes after it starts to flow.

What it did produce was very clean odour and taste wise.

I also noticed there was a film of raw sugar coloured clay at the bottom of the still when empting that I would not normally get?
It didn't taste sweet or bitter, just bland.

Is this dead yeast? Or Raw sugar left overs? Or undigested sugar?

Anyhow, so am I still guessing that the yeast is too far gone to run long enough to use up all the sugar?

I'll buy some bakers yeast just for the fun of it tomorrow and throw that in and see if it kicks off again.

How much do you think I should throw in for each 20 Litre batch?

And won't the bakers yeast crap out at a very low alcohol range? Unlike the wine yeast which is rated to 18%?

.-.-.

[SiliconJaguar]

OK I now have sitting in front of me.

- Tandaco - Dry yeast - 12x (7 gram) Sachets.
- Lowan - Instant Dried Yeast - 280 gram Tin.

Both were about $5 each from Coles and Woolworths super markets.

What would you recommend I stick in the existing wash's to help them finish off?

And what would you recommend to try for a fresh 20 Litre wash?

If I don't have any success with the bread yeast I will be off to buy some more products including yeast from the wine companies. LOL !!

.-.-.

.-.-.

[August West]

what's your SG of your wash at beginning and what is it now.

Reccomend you try UJSSM under "Tried and True Recipies". Follow to a "t" and you'll make a good product.

Potstill or reflux?

AW

[SiliconJaguar]

OK, I left that last lot for a hellishly long time and then one day just decided I better run it through the still and get out of it what ever I can.

It hadn't gone too sour surprisingly enough. And I got a decent 4ish Litres of spirits out of each batch of about 20 Litres wash.

So here we go again with another try. I reckon the old yeast is still viable personally if maybe a bit lazy due to its age.
When I start it off in some room temperature tank water with a dash of raw sugar, a pinch of DAP, & old Biocubis it froths up quiet nicely in a jar within the first 15-20 minutes.

So this time I'm trying 2 lots of the same. (2x 25Litre Fermenters).

- 25 Litres Tank water.
- 4Kg Raw Sugar.
- 2 Teaspoons of White Varietal 18% tolerant (when new) yeast.
- 2 Teaspoons DAP.
- 2 Teaspoons Biocubis (Old) - Yeast food.
- 1 Teaspoon of Marmite.

I hydrated the yeast in a small jar for 30 mins first as above. And stir the sugar in good before adding the yeast and foods. Then stir all in well before capping the fermenter and setting the air lock.

It's still fairly warm here even of a night so I haven't bothered with a fish tank heater.
Even now at 7PM it's still 28 deg C inside the house. But there is a thunder storm coming just now so has probably made things a bit warmer for a bit.

Once fermenting stops again this time I might throw in and stir up some bakers yeast again at the end and let it sit a few more days like I did last time.

I'll see if it tastes sweet first before doing this as an indication of if the sugar hasn't been fully used up or not.

Will post more here as things progress.

.-.-.

[SiliconJaguar]

Both washes started to percolate by the next day.

The Air lock burping once about every 5-6 seconds so fairly slow compared to when the yeast was new.

I am also wondering what Vitimin B & Epsom Salts would do for a wash?
Would adding some of this at the beginning help feed the yeast and get it started better at all?

It's also started to get cold here now of a night. I may have to add a fish tank heater soon if things get any worse.

So far though the temperature under the house is around 21 Deg C or better most of the time though.

.-.-.

[rad14701]

SiliconJaguar, additional nutrients added at the start will help, as will additional aeration and leaving the fermenter open longer prior to aerating... Older yeast requires a longer aerobic phase due to the reduced number if viable yeast cells... Keeping the wash warmer also seems to help, at least from a personal observation standpoint...

Personally, I'd just buy a couple newer bricks of bakers yeast and boil portions of the old yeast for use as nutrients...

[SiliconJaguar]

Hi guys, Well I finally got myself a reflux still and some bits and pieces to go with it all.

See:http://shazam.zapto.org/igal/brewing-1/


It was a new still a year or so back but the old owner obviously didn't store it too well, there is some green corrosion etc but I expect it will clean up OK.

I also got one of those stacked carbon filtering buckets and a fermenter. All up $150 so not too bad I guess.

There were also some other bits like a big drum of sugar, some essences, and hopefully some more ceramic saddles and a alcohol hydrometer to come yet if he can find them.

OK Now for the questions!

- It's only a 4 Litre pot by the looks of things. Where can a get a 25 Litre one from for a reasonable price? I assume the same head will fit on the top?

- The hoses have been melted so I need to get some more hose from somewhere also.

- Would also like to get a couple of spare rubber bungs and a digital thermometer as the glass one is easily broken.

- Also need a pond pump as I don't want to waste water and will cycle water between two containers for cooling. Possibly even use an old thermo fan and transmission cooler?

- Is there a good water regulating valve I can grab to help set the temperature well?

- Oh where can I get these replacement carbon filters from?



Looking forward to trying out my first run on the new toy!.

.-.-.

[stilly_bugger]

Someone might move this due to the changed topic, but:

Where can a get a 25 Litre one from for a reasonable price?

EBay. You're looking at $200-$300 from a home brew shop (HBS)

I assume the same head will fit on the top?

If you go with one of these.

The hoses have been melted so I need to get some more hose from somewhere also.

Hardware or HBS

Would also like to get a couple of spare rubber bungs and a digital thermometer as the glass one is easily broken.

HBS or EBay

Also need a pond pump as I don't want to waste water and will cycle water between two containers for cooling. Possibly even use an old thermo fan and transmission cooler?

3000L/hr pond pump will do. 250W submersible pump is better. It's not recommended that you run these in water over 35°C. So on a 2000W element you'll get these run times per volume of cooling water, assumign you start at 15°C:

Tank vol. L : Time to 35 °C
200 : 2hr 7min
400 : 4hr 13min
600 : 6hr 20min
800 : 8hr 26min
1000 : 10hr 33min
1200 : 12hr 39min
1500 : 15hr 49min
2000 : 21hr 6min

Is there a good water regulating valve I can grab to help set the temperature well?

Gate valves are good for control of coolant.

Oh where can I get these replacement carbon filters from?

HBS. Maybe even supermarket.

[SiliconJaguar]

Wow, Some very good info. Thanks!

Will a Turbo 500 Boiler take the condenser I have? As in is the hole in the lid the same? And the 2KWatt element OK?

For cooling I have two options.
1. I have two 44Gallon (166 Litre) blue plastic drums that I can run water from one to the other. Or circulate back into the same drum. (Easiest Option).
2. I have a big water tank. But I would have to buy a garden shed or similar to sit the still in beside this.

Eventually I'd like to try using a transmission cooler and a fermo fan to try and cool the water down first before returning into the drum.

I assume a 25 Litre Still with 2KWatt element would take some 4 ish hours to run the wash through each run? Yes? No??

.-.-.

[stilly_bugger]

Will a Turbo 500 Boiler take the condenser I have?

Not sure, don't know 'em. Ring a HBS and ask what the diameter of the hole in the top is.

And the 2KWatt element OK?

Hmmm. That condensor might struggle with 2kW. How big's the element in the boiler? I'm guessing it's a single loop element, making it 900 or 1300W -- probably 1300.

For cooling I have two options.
1. I have two 44Gallon (166 Litre) blue plastic drums that I can run water from one to the other. Or circulate back into the same drum. (Easiest Option).
2. I have a big water tank. But I would have to buy a garden shed or similar to sit the still in beside this.

If you've got a tank, use it. No need for a shed. Just buy a few long hoses. There's a diagram of my setup here. All you need to make sure of is that the top of your reservoir drum is lower than the water level in the tank. Run the tank to a 44 drum by gravity and then pump from the drum to your condensor and from your condensor back into the tank.

The benefit of a tank over one or two 44s is that the coolant 'in' (as opposed to 'out') temp stays pretty constant throughout the run. With one or two 44s, you have to take into account the amount they heat up through the run and adjust coolant flow accordingly.

I assume a 25 Litre Still with 2KWatt element would take some 4 ish hours to run the wash through each run? Yes? No??

Yes. You can plug all your info into these calculators on the parent site to work out heat-up and run times. Navigate them using the left-hand menu. It's worth working out how they work.

[SiliconJaguar]

I think the standard element in the 5ltr Brewcraft Super Reflux Still is about 900 Watts in a loop configuration. I put a power meter on it and it sat at about 880 Watts consumption.

The Turbo 500 Boiler is a more modern design.
It has a sealed element in the base that also has built in boil dry etc protection. But it is 2KWatts.

http://www.aussiebrewmakers.com.au/reta ... _item.html


Features of this quality 25 litre boiler include:
- 2000w integrated element which is located outside the boiler.
- Boil dry reset.
- Thermal cut out fuse.
- Waste discharge tap.

Also thanks for the idea on gravity feeding the water down to the 44 Gallon drum. You have me thinking now on all sorts of idea's that also include watering the vegie garden down there in the same area as well.
.-.-.

[thecroweater]

they definatly make a 25 ltr boiler especially for these super reflux jobs because I saw one awhile back in Ballarat , no idea how good they are though , reckon they'd be around the 200 to 250 bucks mark new as well

[SiliconJaguar]

Yep, your spot on. The street price seems to be about $225 without looking too hard for the 25ltr boiler.

I gave the new BC Super Reflux a run last night.
Being the first time it gave me the heabie-Geabies running the thing. I was waiting for the thermometer to come shooting out the top or something. LOL.

But it wasn't too bad. I will have to get used to it though. The run took longer to start then my Air Still and ended a lot quicker too.
I wasn't sure how far I should fill it either.

The output was definitely a lot cleaner and smoother taste and smell wise on the first run compared to the pot / air still.
However it only created a 65% ish output though. I was expecting around 80%.

I think what I will try next is using the Air Still as a strip run on the initial wash and then run it through the reflex the second time to clean it up.

The pot still is a lot less mucking around then the water reflux still.

However if I had the 25ltr boiler this would help lots.
.-.-.

[thecroweater]

yeah look they have such a short column to reflux in i wonder if ya couldn't get an extension made up to go between that and the boiler ya looking at getting (shouldn't cost very much), pack this extension and you will be getting so much more reflux happening . say 600mm and you be at lest tripling ya theoretical plates , should get ya to azoetrope or close anyway . sorry if i f#cked the description up I'm smashed as a lord
Crow

[stilly_bugger]

SiliconJaguar, if you want my advice, something many people don't, if your condensor knocks down the vapour comping off 2,200W now sweat*, save the $250 on a new boiler, and

• acquire a second-hand 50L keg,
• put a 2,200W weldless element in it

(If you used the upturned stainless bowl method to attach your column to the keg you could even fit your 900W element in the keg and use it for the main part of your run.)

You can buy second-hand imported kegs here in Vic for around $60-$100AUD. Go to a scrap metal yard and you'll do better than that. Word up a publican and you'll do better again.

A weldless element will cost you $50AUD.

So for $150AUD you've got yourself a boiler that will take twice the volume. That said, those boil-a-beer boilers are quite good. They seal well, they're simple to use straight out of the box, and they have a boil-dry safety feature.

Now, to your condensor.

I'm with Crow. If you want high quality, like around 94-95%, neutral, view your existing condensor as simply the condensing and take off part of a new column and

• build a 1.5m packed extension in 1.5 or 2 inch. You'll get 1.5m of 2" copper in Oz for $80AUD.
• Use stainless scourers as your packing and a couple of fittings to attach to your condensor at one end and the boiler at the other.
• And insulate it.

(If you want to mess about with different column extension lengths, boiler power inputs and reflux ratios, use the calculator on the parent site. Just fill in the brown area.)

So, for the price of a boil-a-beer boiler you could have a boiler and a column extension, if you go about it in the right way.



*Note that the amount of vapour coming off a 2,200W boiler, and therefore the amount of vapour that a condensor has to knock down, depends on the percentage of alcohol in your boiler charge (the liquid in your boiler). A 10% abv boiler charge in a 2,200W boiler will produce 3.2L/hr of condensate, while a 38% abv boiler charge in a 2,200W boiler will produce 6.4L/hr of condensate. That's a big difference between running a wash straight from the fermentor and running a low wines. To test the upper limits of your condensor you really need to test it on a low wines, if you intend on using the column to run low wines.

[thecroweater]

Ok Sick sober and sorry now but thinking straighter yes I' d go with the extension for sure , don't know if I'd go to 1.5 as your getting 65 from that short arsed thing 600 to 1mtr up to you though anyway the cool thing about this set up is just unscrew it and run it like it is for pot stilling as well . Also , and I don't want to preach to ya but If it was me I'd be lookin to F#ck off the plastic take off hose and attach copper tube , just saying I would

[maheel]

your also going to need to figure out a way to create some reflux control on that water jacket to get a higher % i reckon
as i dont think you have much reflux control on those

can you put it into 100% reflux ?

one way may be to create two ingoing water lines one to the reflux jacket and one to the condenser.
on your outgoing lines you could put a valve / flow control
this allows you to pressurize the cooling lines going into the still and control the flow of the water jacket after it exits at the valve giving you some flow control on the coiling jacket

bigger boiler is going to make life easier all round but

[stilly_bugger]

I don't pretend to know as much as maheel or crow, so if what I say in this post is wrong, slam it. I can take it. :

...don't know if I'd go to 1.5...

...your also going to need to figure out a way to create some reflux control on that water jacket to get a higher % i reckon...

That's why I suggest such a long extension. This is a cooling management (CM) still with a tiny reflux condensor (the water jacket in the column) and a larger product condensor (the bit that actually looks like a coil). Ignore the reflux condensor and what you have is a packed pot still. Now, a 1.5m stainless-scrubber packed 2" column with no condensor-induced reflux running on 2,200W boiler will start by pulling about 94% abv and will slowly taper off from there -- that is, when it's running as a packed pot still.

This is a good footing from which to start when you're working with a tiny reflux condensor. Then, the tiny reflux condensor (if it knocks everything down) can be used mainly to improve separation of heads, hearts and tails rather than having to worry about using the reflux it induces to increase the number of 'plates' in the column, i.e., improve purity. (Of course, recognising that the two tasks of increasing purity and improving separation are linked -- that is, that any reflux ratio greater than 0 improves separation, which helps you to stop smearing and, therefore, helps you to improve and maintain purity.)

[SiliconJaguar]

Hi guys,

Sorry for the late reply. Have been busy.

Well. So many excellent posts and so fast. I guess me finally getting away from the air / pot still got you all excited. LOL.

Some great info there for me to ponder on.

If possible it would be nice to keep the costs down and do some DIY instead of just buying the highly over priced hobby stills that are available commercially.

The hardest bit to make is the condenser. So if I can just bolt the old BrewCraft one I have now onto anything I build to tide me over for a bit it would be helpful.

I will see what I can find around the place in the way of keg's or other suitable containers to turn into a boiler and use one of the 2KWatt sealed elements you talk about.

For cooling I'm going to try a transmission cooler out of a car (sits in front of the radiator) and mount a heap of computer power supply fans on it. I'll use a pond pump and add a return valve after the pump but before the still to regulate pressure and flow. Much like that excellent diagram further up the page. I have two plastic 44 gallon drums. I'll try flowing from and back into a single drum first. But if it's not enough water and cooling going on I can flow from one to the other.

So any extension column I make has to also have a water jacket, grill, & packing similar to the condenser I have now?

In the mean time I'm going to try and run 5ltrs of 40% spirits through the BrewCraft reflux still and see what happens.
The 40% spirits is produced by doing a strip run for a hour using the old air still and then run through a carbon filter.

I think this should give me a pretty clean product so I can just get a few bottles on the go in the mean time to experiment with flavouring and aging.

I would like to try and get some bottles on the go that taste similar to...

- Bundy Rum
- Galliano
- Bourbon
- Vodka (Easy LOL).

Also I like the Bundaberg Reserve Rum. It is aged in oak. So I was going to try sitting some French oak chips in a bottle for a couple of weeks.

On another note. Instead of sugar, I can get a lot of whole barley cheap.
I also have about 20 Litres of molasses still sitting here.

Am also looking into small kegs as I'd like to do some beer but I hate the idea of having to muck with bottles.
.-.-.

[thecroweater]

If ya get this running right and can go from pot to reflux you can throw the filter in the back of the shed and with the ingrediance you have it wont be long before ya toss most of those flavorings too