Valve Plate design
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Valve Plate design
Ok guys I need some input here.. I have been working on a valve plate for future plated column build... Here are some pics. I want you guys to tell me how to maybe improve this, or see if you see any reason it will not work.
The plate is just setting in a scrap piece of 4" pipe just for the photos.
The stem on the rivets is .12 in and the hole is .265.
Tell me what you think. I thought about leaving the hole in the center for a drain. Do you think it will drain the plate and allow it to collapse?
The plate is just setting in a scrap piece of 4" pipe just for the photos.
The stem on the rivets is .12 in and the hole is .265.
Tell me what you think. I thought about leaving the hole in the center for a drain. Do you think it will drain the plate and allow it to collapse?
Re: Valve Plate design
You will not need the hole in the centre for drainage, there will be enough weepage when the still is not driven with vapor.
Thats a nice plate KS, it should work well.
OD
Thats a nice plate KS, it should work well.
OD
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Re: Valve Plate design
Ok OD I will put a rivet in the center hole, or use it for the tree to run up through..
Re: Valve Plate design
Where will you place that apperatus? In the bottom of the flute?
Translation:
Wahare you puddin nat?
Translation:
Wahare you puddin nat?
Trample the injured and hurdle the dead.
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Re: Valve Plate design
When I build another flute (plated column) I will make 4 or 6 of these and use for my bubble plates. I only set this inside of the scrap pipe for photos.
There is another member whom is wanting one for more Vodka than whiskey so I thought of installing him 6 plates.
There is another member whom is wanting one for more Vodka than whiskey so I thought of installing him 6 plates.
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Re: Valve Plate design
you S U C K, Larry... I understood perfectly...LWTCS wrote:
Translation:
Wahare you puddin nat?
Re: Valve Plate design
That translating tool you have seems to be working out very wellKentucky shinner wrote:you S U C K, Larry... I understood perfectly...
Luv ya.
Cheers Bro
Trample the injured and hurdle the dead.
Re: Valve Plate design
has there been any discusion on valved verses bubble cap? been loving all this plate talk and i'll plunge one of these days. sounds like a realy fun project. get to use all my machining equip thats collecting dust. gman
Re: Valve Plate design
There has glassman. But damned if I can recall who's thread.glassman wrote:has there been any discusion on valved verses bubble cap?
Either Jethro's, Shinner's other build thread or maybe Joe Rednose's bubble cap thread.
But I recon all the dialog gonna make over to this thread as Shinner is the first one here to build the valved assembly.
Stay tuned I'm sure.
BTW, I can't wait to see all them valves dancing a happy Irish Jig.
Trample the injured and hurdle the dead.
Re: Valve Plate design
Yes, was me who suggested to try a valved plate.
This plate looks pretty well done, it’s very unlikely the all valves get pushed up and close the holes with the washers, they are long enough.
But… I would not miss to install an overpressure valve (15 PSI) in the lower column before the plates or in the boiler, just to be secure.
I would like to hear the sound when the still is in full action.
This plate looks pretty well done, it’s very unlikely the all valves get pushed up and close the holes with the washers, they are long enough.
But… I would not miss to install an overpressure valve (15 PSI) in the lower column before the plates or in the boiler, just to be secure.
I would like to hear the sound when the still is in full action.
Licensed Micro distillery "Bonanza"; fighting the local market
Re: Valve Plate design
1. Will you perminently afix each plate to the column wall?
2. How much liquid will you allow to collect on the plate?
3. How many plates will you employ for this forthcoming build?
4. Can I barrow seven thousand dollars?
I like the bubble cap more than the perforated version. This design seems like a happy medium.
2. How much liquid will you allow to collect on the plate?
3. How many plates will you employ for this forthcoming build?
4. Can I barrow seven thousand dollars?
I like the bubble cap more than the perforated version. This design seems like a happy medium.
Trample the injured and hurdle the dead.
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Re: Valve Plate design
Thanks and I agree.LWTCS wrote:1. Will you perminently afix each plate to the column wall?yes
2. How much liquid will you allow to collect on the plate? @ .62 inch
3. How many plates will you employ for this forthcoming build?6
4. Can I barrow seven thousand dollars?No dont have it.
I like the bubble cap more than the perforated version. This design seems like a happy medium.
Last edited by Kentucky shinner on Sun Oct 24, 2010 11:37 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Valve Plate design
Me to I can waitrednose wrote:Yes, was me who suggested to try a valved plate.I was allready considering this.
This plate looks pretty well done, it’s very unlikely the all valves get pushed up and close the holes with the washers, they are long enough.1 inch
But… I would not miss to install an overpressure valve (15 PSI) in the lower column before the plates or in the boiler, just to be secure.
I would like to hear the sound when the still is in full action.
Re: Valve Plate design
Use wooden disk/cutout to make a die the exact size diameter that will fit inside your pipe (less thickness of copper for your plate). Take flat piece of copper and cut your disk...plus 3mm or however high you want for a "wall". Etch/mark the line between the floor and wall on the copper (2 circles each 3mm ..or whatever depth you want, apart). Then slow start to bend the outer wall edge. When you get it about half way, place the copper on your wooden die and hammer the edges down. This will form a "cup"/plate that fits perfectly inside your column with the proper size walls.
Re: Valve Plate design
Can also use a rounding over bit in the router and trim a round profile on your wood block. Sorta alah easy flange.Usge wrote:Use wooden disk/cutout to make a die the exact size diameter that will fit inside your pipe (less thickness of copper for your plate). Take flat piece of copper and cut your disk...plus 3mm or however high you want for a "wall". Etch/mark the line between the floor and wall on the copper (2 circles each 3mm ..or whatever depth you want, apart). Then slow start to bend the outer wall edge. When you get it about half way, place the copper on your wooden die and hammer the edges down. This will form a "cup"/plate that fits perfectly inside your column with the proper size walls.
Trample the injured and hurdle the dead.
Re: Valve Plate design
something that iv found when shaping copper or sheet metal is that unless it is bolted down and stationary,,,, it will bend and shape all over the place.Usge wrote:Use wooden disk/cutout to make a die the exact size diameter that will fit inside your pipe (less thickness of copper for your plate). Take flat piece of copper and cut your disk...plus 3mm or however high you want for a "wall". Etch/mark the line between the floor and wall on the copper (2 circles each 3mm ..or whatever depth you want, apart). Then slow start to bend the outer wall edge. When you get it about half way, place the copper on your wooden die and hammer the edges down. This will form a "cup"/plate that fits perfectly inside your column with the proper size walls.
unless making dovetail cuts in your bends,,, i dont think that it would ever be perfect to an I.D of pipe,, (and then would be iffy). but then again,, im not a pro by any means,, and my tools are crude.
spooky
4" plate column >>>[/color] the flame that burns twice as bright only burns half as long
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Re: Valve Plate design
I will have some pics up by tomorrow on how im doing this.. I have something I am trying I just not sure how well its is going to work out... I may head back out to the shop after the football game tonight.
Re: Valve Plate design
atleast leave us with an ideaKentucky shinner wrote:I will have some pics up by tomorrow on how im doing this.. I have something I am trying I just not sure how well its is going to work out... I may head back out to the shop after the football game tonight.
4" plate column >>>[/color] the flame that burns twice as bright only burns half as long
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Re: Valve Plate design
I found some copper strips at the recyclers Friday. They are .75 inches wide. I am going to try to cut to the right length and solder it to the plate. Man these plates fit great. They were turned on a lathe and they are exactly 4.005 diameter and the ID of my pipe is 4.009. They are tight enough that I can work them into the column where I want them. Then make a dimple in the column so it wont slide down any further. I will tack it to the wall of the pipe with some 15% silver solder.
That is my idea anyway.
That is my idea anyway.
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Re: Valve Plate design
I think that valve tray will be the hot ticket for neutral spirit. I have really been doing lots a research on the different plate designs. from what i can find I think you actually get a better separation of alcohol from h2o with the valve plates. You may loose the flavor that comes through with the perforated plates though. I have thought of using this on the bottom and use perforated for the other plates in the column, for whiskey. Use all valve plates for vodkas and neutrals.
Re: Valve Plate design
damnit man,,, thats just what i was thinking... draw your lines on the outside,,, take a hole punch and hit 4 dents,,, slide the plates in, heat from the outside then stick your arm in there,, burn the hell out of it , and tack the plates.Kentucky shinner wrote:I found some copper strips at the recyclers Friday. They are .75 inches wide. I am going to try to cut to the right length and solder it to the plate. Man these plates fit great. They were turned on a lathe and they are exactly 4.005 diameter and the ID of my pipe is 4.009. They are tight enough that I can work them into the column where I want them. Then make a dimple in the column so it wont slide down any further. I will tack it to the wall of the pipe with some 15% silver solder.
That is my idea anyway.
spooky
4" plate column >>>[/color] the flame that burns twice as bright only burns half as long
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Re: Valve Plate design
drill the center hole so a piece of 1/2 pipe fits in cap the ends
Then mount your plates on that
You can rig a hook on the bottom
hang a weight and then drop your plates into your column
when you tap the column on the bottom
the weight will act like a slide hammer and draw your plates in
Thats how i get my 24 plates in and out of my 2" column (mounted on a #6 ground wire)
squeals like a pig with all those plates squeezing in
Then mount your plates on that
You can rig a hook on the bottom
hang a weight and then drop your plates into your column
when you tap the column on the bottom
the weight will act like a slide hammer and draw your plates in
Thats how i get my 24 plates in and out of my 2" column (mounted on a #6 ground wire)
squeals like a pig with all those plates squeezing in
Daddy used, to say " Any landing you can walk away from is a good one"
Calculations don't mean shit when compared to the real world practical experience of many...RAD 9/2010
Calculations don't mean shit when compared to the real world practical experience of many...RAD 9/2010
Re: Valve Plate design
boy they do squeel like a pig..... when i pull my plates out, the dogs and girl starts bitchin... guess there on the same frequency.
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Re: Valve Plate design
Puddin Isn't that for dessert?Kentucky shinner wrote:you S U C K, Larry... I understood perfectly...LWTCS wrote:
Translation:
Wahare you puddin nat?
Serious, KS this is a nice plate.
I wish OD started his flute sooner, I just build a new column, but I love to build a flute.
This will have to wait a couple of years.... but maybe a evolution in flutes will help me build a nice one.
Henk
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Ambachtelijk Destileerderij Nes (Artisan Distillery Nes)
To conquer death, you only have to die
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Re: Valve Plate design
Ok then, buy a couple of FTG reducers of the appropriate size/diameter and cut rings off the bottom (as many as you can) at the height you want. Then solder a copper disk "floor"/plate in the bottom of the rings.Mr.Spooky wrote:something that iv found when shaping copper or sheet metal is that unless it is bolted down and stationary,,,, it will bend and shape all over the place.Usge wrote:Use wooden disk/cutout to make a die the exact size diameter that will fit inside your pipe (less thickness of copper for your plate). Take flat piece of copper and cut your disk...plus 3mm or however high you want for a "wall". Etch/mark the line between the floor and wall on the copper (2 circles each 3mm ..or whatever depth you want, apart). Then slow start to bend the outer wall edge. When you get it about half way, place the copper on your wooden die and hammer the edges down. This will form a "cup"/plate that fits perfectly inside your column with the proper size walls.
unless making dovetail cuts in your bends,,, i dont think that it would ever be perfect to an I.D of pipe,, (and then would be iffy). but then again,, im not a pro by any means,, and my tools are crude.
spooky
Re: Valve Plate design
wish that i would have thought of that when i was doing mine ...... that would make a perfect fit. that would give you an exact peramiter that the "floor" would fit into.
i just scribed my plates with a compas and cut out and filed the best i could to get a good shape (or so i thought).
dont get me wrong,, i made a pretty good fit, but doing it as you just described would be the best thing if you dident have a laithe.
spooky
i just scribed my plates with a compas and cut out and filed the best i could to get a good shape (or so i thought).
dont get me wrong,, i made a pretty good fit, but doing it as you just described would be the best thing if you dident have a laithe.
spooky
4" plate column >>>[/color] the flame that burns twice as bright only burns half as long
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Re: Valve Plate design
I have some material to make walls for it that would be 5/8 inch high. If I were building it for removable plates I think I would use the walls. Personally I am not building with removable plates. The new plates I have fit so tight I think once there in place I am going to solder them in the column.The only reason I would to that is just so that over time of heating and cooling the column I don't want the plate to some loose. I will slide my plate in place then use a center punch to dimple the wall so it will not slide any further down. Then solder it to the wall though the sight glass opening.
That is what I am thinking.. then you would have the perfect seal.
This is what is in my head at this time.
That is what I am thinking.. then you would have the perfect seal.
This is what is in my head at this time.
Re: Valve Plate design
An easier way do do it would be to put your plate into the column at the correct position, then make a ring from some soft solder to fit the inside diameter of the column, drop this ring onto the plate, then hit the outide of the column with heat until the solder melts. aand there is your soldered plate.Kentucky shinner wrote:Then solder it to the wall though the sight glass opening.
OD
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Re: Valve Plate design
I swear OD you are smarter than the average dog... hell ya
Re: Valve Plate design
KS, if you solder it in, what happens if you need to repair a plate? (washer falls off rivet, or whatever).
NChooch
NChooch
NChooch
Practice safe distillin and keep your hobby under your hat.
Practice safe distillin and keep your hobby under your hat.