Prairiepiss's Modular CM, VM, LM pisser build

[Prairiepiss]

Rad here is my plan. I will run it first without for a couple 3 or 4 runs. Get bearings straight on it then start experimenting with the centering ring. After thinking about it many times over. I will start with the centering ring contact point just above the bottom of the reflux condenser. I think there it will act like a heat sink for the condenser. Possibly make it more efficient? Who knows? But that's why I made it a slip fit. So as you said. Find the sweet spot.

[Prairiepiss]

Mite as well post this up to. This is my 15 gal Keg boiler. I welded my bungs in for the drain and two heating elements. I'm holding off on the 4" triclamp flange I have for it until I get the 4 incher done. I took a 3/4" and a 1" stainless unions and cut them in half with a large hole saw and cleaned them up a little to weld on to the keg. The 3/4" is for my drain got a nice 3/4" stainless ball valve for it. The 1" are for the heating elements. I placed the drain half way between the carry handles on the keg. I thought that would be the best place to put it. So it wouldn't take out my shin when carrying it. I then placed the two 1" bungs on the other side of the keg at roughly 90 deg from each other. And 45 deg off center of that side. Yes its a crappy weld job. What do you expect? I haven't welded in 4 years. Oh it was a wire welder with stainless wire and 3 gas.

I only have the $20 I paid for the keg invested. All the rest are freebees.

Heres the unions. one uncut and one cut

[Prairiepiss]

Here is Heater bung number 1 or the lower one.

[Prairiepiss]

Here is Heater bung number 2 or the upper one.

[Prairiepiss]

Here is both Heater bungs.

[Prairiepiss]

And the drain valve.

[Kentucky shinner]

how often did you anneal it while you were working down that lip?

how bigga balls does that harbor freight expander have to expand copper...like could you turn 2-1/2" into 2-3/4" or 2-7/8"?

good to see your project on the move!
good luck, keep us posted.

Sorry didn't see these questions the first time.

#1 Your not going to believe me but. I didn't anneal it at all for any of the work I have done to it. On the 3" condenser jacket that is. It was harder to work with but it was doing what I wanted it to. I just didn't want to change it by annealing it. I think If I would have annealed it. It wouldn't have turned out so good.

#2 Not impressed with these at all. I bought all 3 sizes they have. The problem they have for us is the sizes. The one that fits in 2" is the middle one. And 2.5" I think is its max. I did play with it a little on 2 " but stopped because of the outcome. It kinda makes it octagonal. You have to run it out a little then rotate it a little and run it out again. Doesn't end up round. The next size up will not fit into the 2" and fits 3" about the same as the one does in the 2". So if you want to use it like I did get it. If you want to use it to expand copper pipe. Save your money. Oh and this is what I tried to use on my centering ring I just posted pics of. The problem there was it only fit half way in. So when I tighten it it flares out on the open end. it flared it a little with a lot of work. And I annealed the shit out of it.

I've been working on it a little here and a little there. I've got some really cool shit built. I just don't want to let the cat out of the bag on that just yet. When I get closer the the end of the tunnel I will. That stuff goes with the 4" flute build for a latter thread.

Thanks for this tutorial.. very nice work.

[Samohon]

Looking good PP, with Rad on the adjustable centering ring... Now that will be interesting...
Still waiting on those 2" x 3" reducers, guess you'll get round to it soon enough. Glad to see your build progressing...

Thanks for sharing mate' keep it coming...

[Prairiepiss]

Sam I was waiting on some solder. And I got side tracked changed direction. I will get pics up soon.

[Prairiepiss]

Sam the reason its taken me a little longer is. I had it out to where I wanted it for a 3" to 2" reducer. But I then decided to push my luck and go for 4" to 2". I need one for my flute build. It was so easy getting it to 3" I just had to see how far I could push it. And I'm here to tell you 4" is my limit with the tools I have. It's not finished. I need to cut it on the 2" side and clean up the 4" side. I have to get some solder on order tomorrow. I need it to finish it completely. I will be soldering a ring of 4ga copper wire around the 4" end and 6ga on the 2" end making flanges for my triclamps. Here is a pic that I took tonight. Sorry it's a phone pic. The tool I used has an OD of 4". This should give you an idea of what I did.

[Samohon]

Awesome PP, speechless...

Consentrating on finishing my flute build right now, but this is definitely on my to-do list...

Thanks man...

[Prairiepiss]

Thanks Sam.
Here are some better pics of the process. So all I did was flared a 2" pipe out to a little over 4". I'm not going to say it was easy to get to 4" But 3" is very doable. just past 3" its gets really hard. So my 3" reducers will be a lot easier to do. The fist pic is the pipe from witch this section came from. And this is the piece of 2" pipe I am making my 4" plated column from. More on that latter.

This is the chunk of oak I used to keep the other end of the 2" I was flaring from getting mangled. By the way you cant tell from looking at the pipe. Its in great shape.