Here it is. Lets start with a parts/equipment list (I probably forgot something)
- Any decent drill
- Hammer
- CenterPunch
- Bastard File
- These 1/16" bits
- 320 Grit Sand Paper
- Step Bit
- 4" plates
- 1/4" 316SS nuts
- 1/4" 316SS Rod
- Ruler (protractor and compass could help)
- A safe soft solder and flux
Drill is for drillin.
Hammer for tappin plats flat after centerpunching because it gives them a slight curve.
Center punch for making marks where all your "vapor holes" will be.(This punch made 1300 holes no problem)
Bastard File for smoothing the burs after drilling the holes.
1/16th bits for drillin holes (I used those bits. They were $14 a while back. You may have to find something similar)
320 grit for smoothing the plate nicely
Step bit for drilling downcomer holes (This does kinda sloppy holes IMO. Not the best choice)
4" plates, goes unsaid
Nuts are for nuttin'
Rod is for for treein'
Ruler for making lines and perpendicular lines
Solder goes unsaid
Got it? Good!
Here is a couple templates made to size.
The first one is for plates with 3/4" DCs with J traps or suspended cups
The second template is for 1/2"DCs with 3/4"RCs (downcomers and retention cups beotch)
Lets get started.
First, you will need to find the center of the plates. I use the chord and perpendicular line method SEEN HERE
. After making three lines cross you should end up
with three sets of symmetrical triangles (shown in illustartion below). Notice mine arent perfect. The 1/4" rod will have
a bit of flex and perfection isn't necessary if you dont need to "turn them down". Its best to make sure they fit your
pipe before being so careless
.Next, print out the template.
Print it the size it is! Do not alter its size! You may need to modify it slightly depending on your desires of DCs and RCs. It is sized properly to fit right up to your 4" plates.
Simply fold it along the dotted line, enclose your plate, and start centerpunching. Make it tight. Fold the paper into a square encapsulating it. You dont want that plate moving around. I had no problems and I wasn't being very cautious at all. After punching a plate it will look something like this.
(The center hole can be done later. Any time really)
Use the same paper template for your remaining plates. The centerpunch finds the holes in the paper and it goes a bit
faster. If you do it in lines you can go pretty damn fast. I can centerpunch a whole plate in 5 minutes or less.
IMPORTANT: Now you need to flatten those plates back out. Be gentle. If you dont flatten em youll twerk the bits and break
em. Just do it.
Moving on.
Chuck up your drill bit like this. Leave only 1/4" exposed. When I used less I couldn't see the bit and keep it straight. When I used more they broke easily.
Start drilling holes and don't rush it. They will break. Keep the drill staright. Never release the trigger until the bit
has exited the copper. I can do a whole plate with one bit in about 12 minutes. If you're breaking bits you're doing it
wrong, drilling too fast, or not using the bits I suggested (shame on you).
Next, you will use the file to smooth the plates and follow that up with a nice quick rugged sanding. I prefer a little
handheld sander but doing it by hand will work. Its just for looks and feel mostly.
At this point your plates should look something like this.
Now it's time to make some decisions. 1/2" or 3/4"? Cup traps or J traps? I havent finished yet, but, this stuff seems
pretty self explanitory. Odds are I'll have this tutorial finished before you get here. Otherwise, use
some common sense. If you don't understand flute theory and operation than go read more.
Good luck. Anyone can do this
Just for the record, I dont think I've really come across anything new here. I'm just showing it can be done with simple tools and little skill.
