helppppp

Vapor, Liquid or Cooling Management. Flutes, plates, etc.

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dan_buddy
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helppppp

Post by dan_buddy »

is there anyway i can put stainless to copper?
sodder weld
i have a 2inch copper pipe and a stainless fitting for puting my still together with a try clamp
i cant find a copper fitting no where not even the internet
i have ordered a stainless fitting and dad says it canot be done ?
help please
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bearriver
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Re: helppppp

Post by bearriver »

Slide the triclamp fitting into the pipe and solder it using standard soldering processes. Soldering SS to Copper is simple. Some folks recommend tinning the stainless with solder first, but I don't think that is necessary.

If the triclamp don't quite fit, press fit that baby in there. (Worked for me)
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Re: helppppp

Post by SoMo »

bearriver wrote:Slide the triclamp fitting into the pipe and solder it using standard soldering processes.

If the triclamp don't quite fit, press fit that baby in there. (Worked for me)
Use a b tank or map gas and heat that thing as hot as you can then put the solder to it the heat of the pipe should melt the solder not your torch. Keep at it.
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Re: helppppp

Post by dan_buddy »

bearriver wrote:Slide the triclamp fitting into the pipe and solder it using standard soldering processes. Soldering SS to Copper is simple. Some folks recommend tinning the stainless with solder first, but I don't think that is necessary.

If the triclamp don't quite fit, press fit that baby in there. (Worked for me)
yeah ima little worried about it not fitting to the net sayes the fitting is 52 mm but i got out the tape and my pipe it 51 mm inside
thank you
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bearriver
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Re: helppppp

Post by bearriver »

Interference... You can relieve some ID on the pipe, to make it dry fit if you want. First try freezing the ferrule, heating the pipe, and putting it together. If you have access to a press, I'd be surprised if hat didn't work just fine.

My pipe is type L, and the SS ferrules are DIXON brand. The pipe swelled after pressing just a bit.
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Re: helppppp

Post by dan_buddy »

you bys are smart and yes i have a bearing press this should work beautiful thank for the help
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Re: helppppp

Post by emptyglass »

You dont want it to be a press fit, you'll need just the smallest ammount of space for the solder to wick its way in. No gap, no solder flow. 0.002" to 0.005" is all thats needed, basically a sliding fit.

Dont overheat the stainless trying to get the copper up to temp :thumbup:
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Re: helppppp

Post by Brendan »

Listen to EG ^ , he knows everything about metal and copper work!

Contrary to some other suggestions, I was taught to use minimal heat for SS to copper, can be done with just a propane torch. Use an acidic style flux, and apply your heat slowly to the copper, not overheating the SS. And make sure both pieces are buffed completely clean.

If you're interested, I have a little SS to copper soft soldering in my build thread (in signature block below).
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corene1
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Re: helppppp

Post by corene1 »

I would anneal the end of the copper tube then use something solid to tap into it to flare it then clean it well flux it then solder it. I used an old socket to flare this piece of copper for a slip fit on tube.
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Re: helppppp

Post by S-Cackalacky »

Or, you could do an "easy flange" on the end of the 2" copper pipe. There's a thread for it here on the forums.
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thatguy1313
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Re: helppppp

Post by thatguy1313 »

+1 on the easy flange.
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Re: helppppp

Post by BigSwede »

...and I guarantee there are pure copper ferrules out there if all else fails. I know of at least two different types, offered by many different vendors. I have used them in my build, because I like the appearence. But they are pricey.

So, you now have 3 options, EZ flange, copper ferrule, SS ferrule. And they all work! If you use a SS ferrule, just be sure to get flux appropriate for stainless, makes all the difference, as well as sourcing a 4% silver solder like Stay Brite, tends to "wet" stainless better than antimony solder IMO.

Good luck!
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Re: helppppp

Post by dan_buddy »

Brendan wrote:Listen to EG ^ , he knows everything about metal and copper work!

Contrary to some other suggestions, I was taught to use minimal heat for SS to copper, can be done with just a propane torch. Use an acidic style flux, and apply your heat slowly to the copper, not overheating the SS. And make sure both pieces are buffed completely clean.

If you're interested, I have a little SS to copper soft soldering in my build thread (in signature block below).

Your rig is actually insane good work man that's nice enuff to sit in the living room year round

I well try the easy flange last one foot of 2 inch copper pipe where I live cost me 42 bucks and I wouldn't wanna reck it

Brendan where did you get the red silicone ? Will any silicon do ?
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Re: helppppp

Post by dan_buddy »

Off topic but I bought a burner and it burns yellow is that ok ? I no it will leave black on my keg
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Re: helppppp

Post by bearriver »

It's your thread.

What type of regulator are you using, and what kind of burner?
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Re: helppppp

Post by dan_buddy »

its a outdoor lobster boiler i cant find nothing on or anything to do with it was bought at wallmart a year ago
it has a air damper right befor the unit that i have closed if i open it should i get a hotter flame?
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Re: helppppp

Post by Hound Dog »

dan_buddy wrote:its a outdoor lobster boiler i cant find nothing on or anything to do with it was bought at wallmart a year ago
it has a air damper right before the unit that i have closed if i open it should i get a hotter flame?
You should open the damper, blow it out with some compressed air to make sure it is clear then light it. Adjust the damper so the flame is blue. This is optimal burn and it won't soot up. Make sure the gas valve on your tank is wide open and adjust with the regulator.
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Re: helppppp

Post by T-Pee »

dan_buddy wrote:...it has a air damper right befor the unit that i have closed if i open it should i get a hotter flame?
There's your problem right there. You wouldn't do very well without oxygen wither, ya know. Open it a bit at a time and tune it in. Like Hound sez, blow it out too in case there's a critter using it for a condo.

I haveta ask, why'd you close it in the first place?

tp
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Re: helppppp

Post by dan_buddy »

i bought if off a fella for 20 bucks he said it dident work that good lol
i only bought it for the frame i thought i could put i new unit in it
took it to the shed and blew it out all clean ( it basically new )
opened the damper a bit and its all blue
thank you bys
20$ well spent
works like a charm
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Re: helppppp

Post by T-Pee »

:thumbup:

tp
dan_buddy
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Re: helppppp

Post by dan_buddy »

Is 3/8 coil enuff for a 50 liter pot still
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Re: helppppp

Post by T-Pee »

dan_buddy wrote:Is 3/8 coil enuff for a 50 liter pot still
Barely. 1/2" is much better.

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Re: helppppp

Post by rad14701 »

Most here would consider 1/2" as minimum for a boiler the size of a 15 gallon keg...
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Re: helppppp

Post by Halfbaked »

I'd have to +1 Rad. 1/2 inch is the least I would ever consider.
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