Moving my still inside

[Pyewacket]

I have decided to move my stillin inside. I have been doing a lot of wood working in the garage -- sick of getting sawdust in my stilling gear. It is also safer to have this still in my house -- as I plan to use a hutch and cabinets to hide/secure my set-up.

I am going to build a new still. I was lucky to get a bunch of copper 1.5inch/1inch and a bunch of fittings for pennies on the dollar at our local Lowes. I have everything I need to build the below LMVM combo -- outside of the valves (I need to search on here for a good vendor for the 1inch SS valve).

The following design works well for the cabinet, and the materials that I already have. I have built Many concentric stills, and I have tremendous confidence in their ability to knock down vapors (once stuffed with packing). Although the two still heads are not true concentric stills, they follow some of the same logic, and in this case they act like two vertical liebigs or two single bore dephlegmator (however you want to look at it).

With the SS gate valve open --and the needle valves open, the two still heads will have no problem knocking down 5500W of power(unless there is a balance problem b/w the two heads). It should make for a fast stripper.

With the SS gate valved closed -- left side can be used as a pot still or for LM distilling.

And the hope is with the symmetry, it will make for decent VM flow/control.

Rough sketch of the idea, if any of you see an issue -- suggestions are welcome. Also, if you have recently ordered a SSgate valve, and have a good vendor -- would love that information.

[Danespirit]

Pyewacket ...your design looks good.
I am planning something a bit similar (with two valves,though).
The only issue i would think could cause some trouble is your reflux return.
I would make a little U turn on the inside...it serves like a vaporlock, so the vapor can't travel into it...
Everything else, looks great. You also thought about the symmetry, which is splendid..
Edit.. : alternative to the U turn, you could just make a slope on the lines a "pigtail"..that would act as a liquidlock.

[Pyewacket]

Danespirit...Great advice, I will do a loop vapor-lock on the two returns -- thanks

[Danespirit]

I just had another idea...
If you want to keep the symmetry...and a easy cleaning...just make a U on each refluxreturn line...kind like a bow on it.
That way it would be much easier to clean as with a "pigtail". It would act like the waterlock on a toilet.

[ben stiller]

I would think about running the h2o inlet into the bottom of the liebigs and then out the top to the upper condensers. Seems like
the liebigs would be receiving some pretty hot water. If you stay with your plan report back I am interested in how it works. Inch and
a quarter works really well inside the 1.5 for the condensers, but it sounds like you bought the pipe and fittings already and cheap.

[Pyewacket]

I would think about running the h2o inlet into the bottom of the liebigs and then out the top to the upper condensers. Seems like
the liebigs would be receiving some pretty hot water. If you stay with your plan report back I am interested in how it works. Inch and
a quarter works really well inside the 1.5 for the condensers, but it sounds like you bought the pipe and fittings already and cheap.

Yeah, I would much rather do the 1.25 inch inside the 1.5 inch. I think I paid $.99 each for the fittings lol. I doubt I will have more than $20 of copper (Pipe and Fittings) total -- in this build.

In my garage I have a water distribution hub -- nothing fancy just a 4 way valved garden house adapter. So, I will likely take your advice and come up with a better water distribution. I am gonna have to tie in under my sink -- will probably put together something similar.

[ben stiller]

do you have a Grainger in your area? I bought my 1.25 inch on clearance. Two feet for $11. Also have 5 feet for %35 and change.

https://www.grainger.com/product/MUELLE ... 1?$smthumb$" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

[Brutal]

I like this design still. I've been considering building one lately too, but I might leave the VM side off it and just do LM.

In the picture it looks like you have your take off valve below the liebig(s). It would probably work better if it was right below the reflux tee. Also I don't think the VM side concentric is going to do much? Unless it backs up the vapor should all sink into the liebig on that side and be condensed. If there is a small valve on that side it becomes another LM take off.

[ben stiller]

The more I look at this design the more it is growing on me. Couple more questions?
How tall will the 2" column be and what packing will you use?
You seem to be a fan of concentrics. Why this design over concentric heads?

[Danespirit]

+1 Brutal
The VM side is going to be a problem...i missed that point, when thinking of a design i had with two valves.
It has to have a valve for the Liebig takeoff, or a moveable coil (CCVM).
Water IN and OUT, should be switched around.

[Pyewacket]

like this design still. I've been considering building one lately too, but I might leave the VM side off it and just do LM.

In the picture it looks like you have your take off valve below the liebig(s). It would probably work better if it was right below the reflux tee. Also I don't think the VM side concentric is going to do much? Unless it backs up the vapor should all sink into the liebig on that side and be condensed. If there is a small valve on that side it becomes another LM take off.

The two lower liebigs are only product coolers -- and are small 3/8inch. The take-off valve on the VM side is superfluous -- might not even include it. I thought it might be handy -- I can't think of a good reason. I may -- instead of the valve -- pig tail vapor lock below the distillate cooler. You have me rethinking the effectiveness of the product cooler on the VM side. It probably will be worthless. A while back I made a product cooler that was a small coil inside a section of 1.5inch -- might do something like that -- or angle it the best I can inside the hutch. Or maybe just put the pig tail vapor lock inside a water sleeve for a cooler.

The more I look at this design the more it is growing on me. Couple more questions?
How tall will the 2" column be and what packing will you use?
You seem to be a fan of concentrics. Why this design over concentric heads?

I seriously thought about two full concentrics on each side. I have a drawing somewhere that essentially had the LM side refluxing directly into and down through the 1 inch elbow and to the "T". Few things that made me change my mind: It would be extra work, I worry about the extra distillate pooling in the horizontal section of 1 inch pipe(smearing), I am an absolute stickler on centering distillate into the column packing -- and the nixon stone style reflux returns accomplish this better than most designs. Basically, I stripped out concentric components for simplicity.

I have a 42" column, and a "50 inch I could use. I know that the 42" will fit -- not sure the "50 will. I am thinking of taking the plunge purchasing some SSP.

Ben Stiller, I may just head down to Grainger. I didn't know they sold copper that way. They are bout half hour away. I really do want to use up these fittings though -- and of course I don't want to spend money where I don't have to.

[Pyewacket]

Man, I wish I had cad skills -- or even better MS paint skills. Anyway, updated with some labels that may make it easier to understand. Some changes as well

[thisguy]

Love your designs Pye.

[skow69]

My reflux head is somewhat similar.

So now the concentric on the right is not a reflux but a product condenser. Does the one on the left have enough capacity on it's own?

What is the loop on the right side for?

You might want to move the LM valve to above the condenser. LM smearing is all about the size of the pool of accumulated distillate. This one would be the whole Liebig full plus a couple inches.

I would reverse the coolant flow through the lower condensers to aide the temperature gradient.

As for cleaning the loop, I just flush it with hot water like the rest of the still.

Keep at it, Pye. You'll end up with a great still. Custom fitted to you and one of a kind, which is so much the better.

Skol,
skow

[skow69]

That picture is outdated. I should have used this one.

Not for the words, but the Liebig connection.

Oops.

[Pyewacket]

So now the concentric on the right is not a reflux but a product condenser. Does the one on the left have enough capacity on it's own?

Correct, it always was intended as such -- the addition of the needle valve (right side) originally was more of a byproduct of a cut and paste process with my feeble attempt at piecing this craptastic drawing together. The thought had crossed my mind that I would leave it in -- so I had myself convinced that it might be an interesting thing to have there -- wouldn't hurt. In the end there is absolutely no reason to have the ability to return distillate on that side. It would even require the right-side condenser to always be on to return the small amount of distillate created by possible vapor flow through the 3/8 return. Silly idea.

Yes, the left side condenser will be plenty capable of working as an LM. It will likely have enough capacity to strip full bore 5500w; without having to open up the VM valve and collect simultaneously. I gifted a smaller 1" concentric still to a good friend of mine. He has been using it for almost 2years now (countless runs). When he runs LM reflux for his neutrals, he is collecting at the same rate as I am on my coiled 2" condenser (he has the little guy on top of a 2" column). This little concentric knocks down vapors from a bayou classic -- low/moderate gas flow (key is packing the condenser). I have enough room to add an inch or 2 to the length of these condensers...and the extra diameter will increase surface area-- making it more effective.

You might want to move the LM valve to above the condenser. LM smearing is all about the size of the pool of accumulated distillate. This one would be the whole Liebig full plus a couple inches.

Good point. Because the return is just above the distillate cooler (3/8" T) it will not be able to collect into the 1" T -- Just fills up the 3/8" tube and returns to reflux. The little distillate cooler liebig will be maybe 6" long -- I will take your advice and do some math before I commit. The alternative is forgo the 3/8" T -- and put my reflux return above the takeoff -- Like skow69 shows in his photo (still considering this).

What is the loop on the right side for?

I thought it might be a good idea to put a vapor lock -- It will be a nice tight small loop in the 3/8" -- to promote vapor flow to the vertical product condenser as opposed to some of the down-draft vapor flow that can occur; Although, the distillate cooler would likely take-care of any small amount of down-draft.

Thanks for giving me things to think about -- As I try to flesh this out. It has been a while since I have done a build. It is nice to get excited about it again. Also, the prospect of moving this into the house has me thrilled. The wife said it was ok so long as it is self contained. I have this sliver of a space to left of my kitchen cabinets. And the hutch will look like a pantry -- with a lock haha.

Skow69 -- Yes, your head is very similar. Just different condensers, but the same idea. THANKS for posting!

[Danespirit]

Skow...you have a dangerous configuration going on in your first picture..Both valves closed...BOOM..!
There is not much pressure that can pass by on that small curled line..

[Pyewacket]

Skow...you have a dangerous configuration going on in your first picture..Both valves closed...BOOM..!
There is not much pressure that can pass by on that small curled line..

Danespirit,
I initially thought that, but I can't be sure of the size of the return. People make worms using 3/8" as the minimum size -- but I am not certain how that would apply here. I should shut up and let Skow answer --

[skow69]

I have to disagree. It's 3/8" tubing. It will bypass way more vapor than my 2625 watts could possibly make. Think of steam coming out of a tea kettle. How big is that hole?

As it turns out, I haven't used that valve since the initial test runs. It just doesn't provide any useful function with the way I run the still. That's why the handle is off in the later photo.

But thanks for being concerned about me. It's nice to know that you care.

[Pyewacket]

+1

But thanks for being concerned about me. It's nice to know that you care.

[Danespirit]

Ahh..ok i see, Skow..

[Pyewacket]

Got the bulk of the still assembled today. Took a while to get the gate valve:

Only have about $35 in her at this point. Still have the therm port to place -- and the return line -- distillate coolers. Probably be a couple weeks before she is ready for a cleaning run.