LV / VM ...VM T off point

[hardboil]

HI All,


a quick question I'm building a LM/VM column, I have seen this http://homedistiller.org/forum/download ... &mode=view

but I'm wondering how close the T needs to be to that bottom plate, I don't want to heat up the plates to much and liquify the solder?

My current T off point to the top of the 90' T is 40mm below the bottom plate.

Vent to atmosphere and condenser water in / out, I plan to put a valve on the vent for the VM take off control.

The green tape is the bottom of the condenser coil.

[hardboil]

this might help?

[rad14701]

That looks good aside from reducing down so close to the column... I'd recommend waiting to reduce until you turn 90 degrees down into the product condenser... If you reduce too close to the column you could end up taking a performance hit... Food for thought...

[Danespirit]

+1 Rad.
Also i wouldn't reduce it that drastical...
What valve are you going to use, hardboil..?
Rest of the construction looks fine...it will produce a nice drop.

[hardboil]

ah yeah thats a 54mm to 22mm, its just in there to make it easier to handle, I was planning to go to 28mm then a SS gate valve but, I might look and see if I can find a cheap (ish) SS 54mm valve and reduce to 28mm after the valve.

[Danespirit]

That would be a good idea..
But if it is going to be to expensive, a smaller gate/ballvalve would also do the job.
I reckon a 54 mm valve is going to cost a fortune..$$$$

[hardboil]

That would be a good idea..
But if it is going to be to expensive, a smaller gate/ballvalve would also do the job.
I reckon a 54 mm valve is going to cost a fortune..$$$$

funny I found a 2" tri-clamp one for £54 so thats a £1 a mm


thanks for all the feedback much appreciated

[bearriver]

Large SS valves with PTFE seals are cheap on eBay... I just got a 2" for my 55 gal mash tun under $25. You just gotta dig around a bit.

I would avoid any reductions if possible, or make them as late in the takeoff branch as possible.

[Condensifier]

I don't want to heat up the plates to much and liquify the solder

You can wrap that area with strips of wet rag to keep it cool and it helps to have a spray bottle with water handy in case the rag catches on fire which it probably will.

[bearriver]

I don't want to heat up the plates to much and liquify the solder

You can wrap that area with strips of wet rag to keep it cool and it helps to have a spray bottle with water handy in case the rag catches on fire which it probably will.

If the OP did a good job fitting the plates then there is no problem if he uintentionally remelts the solder holding them in place. The already soldered seam will remain unchanged after it cools back down.

Flux etches the metal. That solder is stuck on there even if you melt it, hence my comment about a good fitting.

[still_stirrin]

Hardboil,

Here's a tip...put a couple of C-clamps on the part of the column that you don't want to heat when you apply the torch. The C-clamps will conduct the heat away and act as a fundamental cooling fin on the solder, allowing the Tee joint to heat up so you can solder it.
ss

[Danespirit]

Excellent advice Ss..!
A wet rag on the spot you want to protect, is also a good idea..
Just in case you want to save $$ on heatpaste.

[hardboil]

thanks guys, I will keep sharing my build.

[Condensifier]

I don't want to heat up the plates to much and liquify the solder

You can wrap that area with strips of wet rag to keep it cool and it helps to have a spray bottle with water handy in case the rag catches on fire which it probably will.

If the OP did a good job fitting the plates then there is no problem if he uintentionally remelts the solder holding them in place. The already soldered seam will remain unchanged after it cools back down.

Flux etches the metal. That solder is stuck on there even if you melt it, hence my comment about a good fitting.

Good point bearriver.