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Bokakob 2" mini-still column

Posted: Sun Jan 20, 2008 2:39 am
by Pikluk
heres my results after of a ton of reading, asking question and research.

first ill give a huge thanks to the people of this forum.
special thanks to Uncle Jesse for this wonderful forum and Bokakob for the design and to all the others who takes time to help others.

this is the way i builded my reflux still.

head
1/4" copper pipes
copper plate(used a piece of the 2" pipe cuted open and hammered flat)
2" copper pipe
2" copper treaded adapter male
1/4" inline brass needle valve

used this template for the cuts.the file name say 1.5" but it include one for 2" too.
http://www.mediafire.com/?61di0xcx3z1" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
i didn't follow the 1/4" between plates, i gave it more like 3/4".
made the cuts with one blade on the saw then used sand paper folded with sand on both side, made a nice tight fit took me about 5min with #180 paper,easier to solder like this.
DSCF001.jpg
DSCF004.jpg
DSCF0039.jpg
fullhead.jpg
column
2" copper pipe
2" treaded copper adapter female
fullcolum.jpg
condenser
2" copper test cap(lot cheaper then a regular one)
2x 1/4" 90°brass compression fitting
1/4" copper pipe
3/8" copper pipe

can't take any credit for rolling the coil,a really nice guy made it for me.
DSCF0043.jpg
boiler connection
2" copper end cap
8x 6-32 stainless bolts/nuts
cardboard(no ink or gloss)

didn't had the right tool so i made a bunch of little holes and finished with a dremel.
i don't think its the best way to do it but i don't think i will use this boiler for long but the price was right(free), i want something bigger.
DSCF0031.jpg
DSCF0027.jpg
DSCF0030.jpg
edit:fixed pictures size

Posted: Sun Jan 20, 2008 3:32 am
by Chev
WOW. Beautiful still, this must not be your first copper project. With skills like that, I would look into tackling Pint's pot still design when you get bored (then send it to me) :D

What the nub poking out of the back?
Oh, thermometer slot :D

Posted: Sun Jan 20, 2008 4:08 am
by stoker
very nice work.
I even like the way you attached the column to the lid.

Posted: Sun Jan 20, 2008 5:22 am
by Ricky
should do you a nice job. fix it where you can attach the head directly to the boiler and should work as a potstill. i like the fact that you went outside the box on the boiler connector. a little flour and water will seal it up tight. the only prob. i see you have already addressed. need a bigger boiler! :lol: that rig would look great on a 7.5gal keg if you can get one! nice job! 8)

yep

Posted: Sun Jan 20, 2008 8:35 am
by Uncle Jesse
Very nice work!

Posted: Sun Jan 20, 2008 11:10 am
by Pikluk
thanks for all the good words :).
actually this was the first time working with copper(did a lot of work with brass no soldering tho,when i was a locksmith), but husker gave us a really nice tutorial for soldering copper here http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4052.
and yes a 7.5gal keg would be perfect for me, i got 4 carboy... do the math(4 strip run and one spirit run...).

Posted: Sun Jan 20, 2008 11:27 am
by pintoshine
I learned three very cool construction ides in the past few weeks.
Thanks to punkin for his thinking outside the box and building a compact double walled condenser by putting elbows on the inside of the inner pipe.
And thanks to Pikluk for showing me how to build a slant plate head. I've been schooled for sure.
That was an excellent display. Also your solution to the boiler connector is awesome. That's one of those things that makes me smack myself up side the head and say "Of course you idiot"

Posted: Sun Jan 20, 2008 11:36 am
by frikz
Very nice still!

I especially like the condenser, what's the diameter of the centre coil and how did you bend it? Is it 1/4" O.D. tubing?

Posted: Sun Jan 20, 2008 11:59 am
by Pikluk
schooling pinto no way, your youtube vids are awesome your the king... :).
cant wait to see the rest.

Posted: Sun Jan 20, 2008 12:02 pm
by Pikluk
frikz

a really nice guy made that coil for me i can't take any credit for it.

Posted: Sun Jan 20, 2008 6:30 pm
by HookLine
Pikluk, that is beautiful job. I am not surprised to learn you are a locksmith. And like others have said, it is an excellent photo tutorial on a slanted plate. A good picture is indeed worth a thousand words. (One small suggestion, the photos are a bit too big for my screen, might be worth downsizing them about 20%.)

I like the backdrop for the third photo!

There is nothing wrong with the way you have attached the column mount to the boiler, it is original and looks damn solid.

I agree with Ricky that it would probably be worth it to attach threaded fittings to the column-boiler connection, so you can pull the tall packing section out and screw the head section straight on to make a pot still. Even if you don't want to make flavoured spirits, it is still very useful for stripping runs.

Is the condenser cap soldered on or just sitting on? If it is soldered, you should put a hole in it (1/2" is plenty) as an emergency vent to prevent any pressure build up if the condenser fails for some reason.

Posted: Sun Jan 20, 2008 9:26 pm
by tracker0945
This is an excellent demonstration for all newbies (not noobs Punkin :wink: ) of how to go about the business of constructing your own still. I have read with interest the threads and posts of Pikluk in his quest to determine what type of still he needed and the materials and skills required for the job.
All I can say is congratulations and a very well done Sir. A piece of equipment to be proud of.
Cheers.

Posted: Mon Jan 21, 2008 11:46 am
by dr_gribb
Beatifull! The boiler connector is just brilliant in ist simplicity. Very good job one the slanted cuts I might ad.

Dr_G

Posted: Tue Jan 22, 2008 3:20 pm
by Pikluk
some more stuff.

used a piece of oak for the thermometer probe,
used a piece of a 5gal bucket handle and a chain bolted to the ceiling.
probeandsuport.jpg
DSCF0052.jpg

Posted: Wed Jan 23, 2008 3:37 pm
by duds2u
Every time I see those copper threaded unions I get jealous. Just can't find them here in Oz

Posted: Thu Jan 24, 2008 2:39 pm
by Pikluk
frikz
I especially like the condenser, what's the diameter of the centre coil and how did you bend it? Is it 1/4" O.D. tubing?
ask hook is the nice guy who made if for me.
dr_gribb
The boiler connector is just brilliant in ist simplicity
thank you the down side is that it doesn't give strength to the lid,
thats why i haded the support thingy.
hookline
I am not surprised to learn you are a locksmith
the name kind of give it away :)
hookline
I like the backdrop for the third photo!
special at the market got 80kg for 50$, and thought it would look nice behind a still head :P
hookline
s the condenser cap soldered on or just sitting on?
its just sitting there and i made a 1/4" hole after taking the picture(almost forgot to make it).

played with it a little(had 3x5gal carboy of birdwatcher sugar wash at 10%).
i only have a 1100w hotplate and this makes it bad for strip run with 52" of column,1 1/2 hour to boil and 3 more hours to strip half a carboy.
one question here the distilate came out kind of hot, will it be the same or worst with a 8" column?

Posted: Thu Jan 24, 2008 2:48 pm
by tracker0945
one question here the distilate came out kind of hot, will it be the same or worst with a 8" column?


Its an inherent part of the design and operation of this type of column. You have to run the condenser hot for ease of stabalization which gives you the hot distillate.

I had the same problem with mine and just constructed a small liebig condenser that fits on the outlet pipe. Just a piece of 1/2" tube over the 1/4" outlet pipe. The cooling water runs through it before getting to the condenser. Cools things down real good.

Cheers

Posted: Thu Jan 24, 2008 11:51 pm
by HookLine
frikz
I especially like the condenser, what's the diameter of the centre coil and how did you bend it? Is it 1/4" O.D. tubing?
Yes, 1/4" tubing from the air-con shop. The centre coil was wound around a 16 mm mandrel. I don't use salt/sand/water in the tubing, just bend it empty. Tape a foot or so parallel onto to the mandrel, then very carefully, and a little bit at a time, wrap the loose end around the mandrel. The first turn is the hardest, once you got that the rest is pretty easy. You have to keep as much (pulling) pressure as possible on the tubing while winding.

Once you wind the inner coil, slip the mandrel out and put a 32 mm mandrel over the inner coil, then wind the outer coil on that. The outer coil is much easier to wind than the inner.

It isn't so easy to explain, so I might find someone with a video camera and make a tutorial of how I do it.
Pikluk wrote:
hookline
I am not surprised to learn you are a locksmith
the name kind of give it away :)
Of course!

Posted: Fri Jan 25, 2008 12:01 am
by warrend
duds2u wrote:Every time I see those copper threaded unions I get jealous. Just can't find them here in Oz
Amen to that duds...

I've asked the same question on a couple of other threads, where the heck can you get these. I've done a heap of searching and calling, but with no luck.

If ANYONE can put us onto a supplier of these, even in NZ, I would be very grateful as I'm sure others would be too.

Cheers

Warren.

Posted: Mon Jan 28, 2008 6:15 am
by Pikluk
made a short column and condenser for striping, will also try them as a pot still in the near future.

2" copper pipe with 2" treaded female copper fitting for the column.

1/2" copper pipe
2x 1/2" copper end cap
3/8 copper pipe
1/4" copper pipe

drilled 1/4" hole on the end caps and 3/8" holes on the 1/2" pipe.
was easy to make took me like 15min.
shortcolunmandliebig.jpg

Posted: Mon Jan 28, 2008 6:35 am
by stoker
looks like a nice stock of sugar :wink:

Posted: Mon Jan 28, 2008 7:45 am
by HookLine
That Liebig condenser is too small for stripping runs. 1/4" is too small. 1/2" inside 3/4" would do it. My Liebig is 3/4" inside 1".

Posted: Mon Jan 28, 2008 8:41 am
by Pikluk
i will still use my boka head on top of the small column.
unless im mistaking most if not all condensing should be done by the reflux
condenser.

Posted: Mon Jan 28, 2008 8:59 am
by HookLine
Ahh, yes, of course. My mistake. My pot column just goes straight into the Liebig, which does all the condensing. But you are using your Liebig just for cooling the output, after it has been condensed by the coil condenser. :oops:

Carry on as you were, don't worry about me. :mrgreen:

Posted: Mon Jan 28, 2008 9:35 am
by pintoshine
I too went ahead and built the 1/4 inch heat exchanger onto my column. I use it to bring down the temp of the final product. It is a good thing to just incorporate into any design that emits hot spirits.

Posted: Mon Jan 28, 2008 10:43 am
by Blind Eye
Just curious what type of packing you were considering and what % of the 52" will you utilize?

Oh Ya that thing is awesome,nice work,quality!!

I'm on my way to a friends plumbing and heating store to pickup the 2" copper for $8.25 @ft.,and start mine today.

What is the difference with the test cap does that fit I.D or O.D. can't tell and did'nt understand the 1/4" hole you said earlier?

Posted: Mon Jan 28, 2008 1:23 pm
by Pikluk
just received my packing today.got one pound of copper mesh , only made
32" of packing with it, will need more :(.
i want to fill it to about 2" below the bottom plate.
playing with that right now steady at 94% about 400ml/h from low wine ~50%.

test cap are about 10$ cheaper then a regular end cap lot thiner too,it fits over a 2" I.D. copper pipe,
but since it was only to hold the coil at the right height.
the 1/4" hole its for safety its a vent hole to prevent pressure built up.

Posted: Mon Jan 28, 2008 1:35 pm
by Blind Eye
That sucks about the packing, I talked with a man from mile-hi and asked if a pound of copper would do a 48"er he said yea so thats what I ordered should be O.K. I hate to be holding my **** in my hand being held up over $12.00 that sucks.

Who are you purchasing from and are you happy with the stuff??

Posted: Mon Jan 28, 2008 1:50 pm
by Pikluk
http://www.home-distilling.com/HD_Disti ... pplies.asp" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

looked fine, didn't had problem rolling it or anything.

Posted: Mon Jan 28, 2008 2:40 pm
by Blind Eye
Noticed you chose to put the thermometer between the 2 plates versus further down the main stack, seems like that would give the most accurate reading but I've noticed others further down. I like the idea did you get any advice on that, is it proven or of your own design ?