Heating element question.

Vapor, Liquid or Cooling Management. Flutes, plates, etc.

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raketemensch
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Re: Heating element question.

Post by raketemensch »

You can also just add a 4" ferrule to the top and use it for a fill/clean port.
ulster_beef1
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Re: Heating element question.

Post by ulster_beef1 »

raketemensch wrote:You can also just add a 4" ferrule to the top and use it for a fill/clean port.
Thats the route I am going. Some people dont like cutting the still and rely on just the pre-manufactured area where the still column attaches (whatever its name) but I like the idea of being able to access the area, so I shall use the cork seal and ss bolts route.

Now to find a local ss steel welder to attach the 2.25 inch flange for the element to screw in to.
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raketemensch
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Re: Heating element question.

Post by raketemensch »

Well, this route just has a 4" ferrule with a tri-clamp, which I trust much more than the cork seal, personally. You would also need to use natural cork without glue, which can be hard to come by. The ferrule/triclamp option can use a generic PTFE gasket.
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Re: Heating element question.

Post by ulster_beef1 »

pfshine wrote:Yep go with the scr but get the 10,000 watt one. Very simple and is plug and play. By the way you don't need 2-1/4" nut. Just get a 1" half coupling and solder it on, don't need to weld it solder works wonders.
Can I ask why you recommend going as high as 10,000 for a 3kw element?
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Swedish Pride
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Re: Heating element question.

Post by Swedish Pride »

rather have the overhead for a few pounds more, I've a10k on 5.5k element
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pfshine
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Re: Heating element question.

Post by pfshine »

Lots of overhead and when you eventually grow weary of long heat up time or change over to something that requires more watts to operate at or even just trying to do a stripping run, you won't have to get a new controller. Besides it's not much more maybe a few American dollars. WHEN you upgrade not if, you will only need to get a couple things to move up to 5500.
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Re: Heating element question.

Post by Hound Dog »

:lol: PF if right about the "when" part.
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slim49
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Re: Heating element question.

Post by slim49 »

so, its no a problem to have the mash immersed over the elec element?
I have a 110 ac 12 L sterilizing ss pot I am converting.
just wanting to be sure.
thx,
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Re: Heating element is WET??

Post by slim49 »

so, its no a problem to have the mash immersed over the elec element?
I have a 110 ac 12 L sterilizing ss pot mod.YX 12LM, I am converting.
going to make a 34" reflux tower. shooting for "Flavor" !
borrowing on the Home Distiller 1.25", so I can switch over to bigger pot in the Future.
just wanting to be sure.
thx,
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rad14701
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Re: Heating element question.

Post by rad14701 »

If the element isn't submersed it will fail by what is called "dry firing"... There are very few elements that can be dry fired and they are quite expensive... If an element dry fires while there is alcohol vapor in the boiler the whole rig could go BOOM...!!!

Seriously, it sounds like you need to do substantial research before proceeding to any practical application in this hobby... What you don't know can kill you...
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