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HookLine wrote:Why do you want two different reflux heads (LM and VM)? They both do the same job, so one is enough.
a quick question about this pic, ive used plumbers thread tape to seal the brass fittings, is there a downside to this?? i know u guys use flour paste etc to seal and was wondering whether this thread tape will leach anything detrimental?? cant remember brand or type off top of my head.
HookLine wrote:Nice welding. Pity you don't live nearby. Did you have to float the 2" threaded nipples when welding them onto the column, or are they tight fits to start with?
HookLine wrote:What is the vertical distance between the plates?
HookLine wrote:Did you de-lead the brass connectors?
De-lead the brass, no i didnt, how do i go about doing this?
Since i want to control the temp, i was thinking of getting a catering hot water urn and pulling it apart and using the variable control dial and element on it. Is this feasible? Do these maintain a temperature by reducing the power, or by simply turning on and off?
HookLine wrote:I control the power on my still element with a zero switching triac module that you can buy from RS Components (Product Code: 489-3424). Works brilliantly but you have to wire it into a box and the total parts cost is about $130. It is a big advantage being able to fine tune your power input for both reflux and pot stilling.
nuddy wrote:Now one thing i dont have ready is the triac controller, that one u linked me to hookline looks good but i dont have the money at the moment to splash out on it. So what i was planning on doing, is to get my first wash or two down, then put these thru a few stripping runs to get myself a collection of low wines. Then store these low wines until i can get the triac controller to do the spirit run. Is this feasible? Do low wines keep well, what the prefered method of storage?
nuddy wrote:What would be be best way to approach this, Im thinking of using both elements (2400 watt types) continuously during the strip, and just collecting everything after the first 150ml.
How critical is the temp when doing stripping runs? Can i just leave them both on and have the collection valve fully open and collect away?
nuddy wrote:ive machined the surface of the flange to form a solid fit but the element has a less then an idea surface to seal to.
My only options i can see are to turn up a substitue boot out of nylon.
Is there any other way to seal these? bear in mind that these elements will be removed to wash the boiler out, so it will have to be removable and faily durable.
DestructoMutt wrote:first your heating elements - go to your local hardware store, they will have screw in replacement elements for water heaters, they will also have a conversion plate for converting from bolt in to screw in. weld the conversion plate onto your boiler, screw the element in (or use the screw in element and a 1" pipe union welded to your boiler).
third, your element control - thermostatic control is not good, it is a on/off proposition. you don't want on/off cycling, you want a steady boil, the amount of boiling is directly related to the amount of cooling supplied by your reflux condensor.
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