Sheet metal punch experience

[Scribbler]

Anyone here have much experience with these? I've come across what looks like two different styles. The first style looks intuitive enough: drill your pilot hole, thread the punch together and it pops your hole out as the punch meets the dye...

This other style looks a little stranger... Is this phot showing a tool holder with a bunch of punches, or is this unit part of the device? Aligning and centering your holes on this looks like it might get frustrating?

[S-Cackalacky]

The first type is fairly expensive and requires that you have full access to both sides of the sheet metal. That is, if you wanted to punch a hole in a keg, it would be near impossible. A hole saw is much less expensive and works pretty well.

I don't know anything about the second type.

[Truckinbutch]

Looks like overkill for what has been accomplished here with less sophisticated/expensive gear . What , exactly is it that you wish to do with it ?

[Scribbler]

Was thinking of using something like this for cutting the holes for the condenser tubes in the end plates for a shotgun...

[Truckinbutch]

Good layout tools , center punch , drill/drill press , and a hole saw will be a bit cheaper . Precision layout is more critical . Solder is very forgiving during buildup . You are plumbing . Not making up a bearing fit .

[Scribbler]

Truckingbutch! Good call... But I sure wish I knew where to get this solder that was filled with forgiveness!! Lol! I have found this lead free solder to be an unforgiving bitch! Maybe it's that it requires more heat than the old lead-plumbing solder? It's just so much thinner that if there is "looseness" it seems like the solder 'wants' to exploit it!!

I've never really thought about a hole saw though! I just assumed those were for electricians and framers and doorknob installers!! Your saying they are pretty good at doing nice tight holes in thin(ish) copper sheet?

[Prairiepiss]

Holesaw would work. Bit you need to ne able to hold that plate. So when it catches. It doesn't slice your hand holding it off. Go slow. And they done always make the best cuts and edges. But for the big holes they can't be beat.

For one inch or smaller. I use a step drill bit. It looks like a big cone with a cutting edge on each side. And each step is marked as to what size it is. These work great for copper. But for metal much over an inch hole. They aren't the best. But really egos for up to that inch. Plus its one drill bit that will do like 10 different sizes. This is what I used for drilling my plates.

Any drilling on copper go slow. Otherwise it will catch and damage the plate. If not you. Clamp the copper down so your hands aren't holding it. If at all possible. I just clamped mine down on a board with a couple clamps. Drilled through the copper into the board.

[Prairiepiss]

Oh and yes the second one you have pictured. That is the base. You would remove all the punches from it. Slip the sheetmetal in-between the plastic and base. Line up the correct size hole. Insert the punch. And whack the shite out of it with a hammer. Much like a leather punch.

[Soggy Bottom Boy]

.... And whack the shite out of it with a hammer. Much like a leather punch.

...or use an arbor press.

[Truckinbutch]

Truckingbutch! Good call... But I sure wish I knew where to get this solder that was filled with forgiveness!! Lol! I have found this lead free solder to be an unforgiving bitch! Maybe it's that it requires more heat than the old lead-plumbing solder? It's just so much thinner that if there is "looseness" it seems like the solder 'wants' to exploit it!!

I've never really thought about a hole saw though! I just assumed those were for electricians and framers and doorknob installers!! Your saying they are pretty good at doing nice tight holes in thin(ish) copper sheet?

I'd exp;ore less heat and a slower approach to the solder .
Mr. Piss pegged the drilling/sawing securement issue . I watched a fine young lady doctor put enough stitches in my left index finger to have made a baby quilt after I failed to adequately secure a piece of copper I was cutting 3" discs out of to make my parrot . That was with a hole saw on a drill press .

[Scribbler]

Thanks for the tips everyone!!!

Many years ago I worked for a company installing sound systems in churches, theatres, schools, restaurants, etc... Drilling some blank cover plates I experienced the "drill press grabs the piece and mangles your fingers bit"... Not fun.


I have a step / unibit that goes up to 1/2" and have used it for 1/4" holes. Worked great!! Maybe I will pick one up that can do my 5/8" holes.

Regarding the punch vs step bit... Expense isn't really an issue... I'm not in the hobby for cheap booze and I love tools, so I would rather pay more for a quality shop addition.... When you figure how much I've spent on tools and materials in the last two years and compare with how's much I drink... Well, I could drink store-bought the rest of my life and would be ahead!!!

[Prairiepiss]

Harbor freight has some step bits cheap. They work good for copper. Stainless will eat them up a little quicker. But will still do it. Price is right though.

[Scribbler]

Ok. Thx. I assume harbor freight is an online store and I can just google it? I guess I'm showing some age... I haven't done much online buying!! But I'm starting to think I might do more of it. When the local store doesn't have a big enough selection for what I want, AND the workers don't have any helpful knowledge, well it makes you question why you would take the time to drive over and look around...

I had a TERRIBLE experience at a local hobby shop... When everything they stock (and MORE) is on the web, ALL they really have is service, and if they ain't got that...

[The KYChemist]

Depending on where you are, there should be a "brick & mortar" Harbor Freight, nearby.