Heating Element Control

[VoodooKlan]

Thanks for the reply.

To make sure i understand this (and for any buddy else that doesn't) the SSR i listed above uses a voltage signal of 3-32 to control the SSR and to just use a POT to control i would have to get an SSR that is controlled via resistance signal.

Now just so i get this clear in my own head. In the "New Distillers Reading Lounge" under "phase angle control modules" in section "distilling with electric heat", MuleKicker you posted a setup using a an SSR controlled by a voltage signal. But if i understand correctly that is possible b/c you also used a "SSRman-1P Intelligent Phase Control Module" and transformer which i can presume is what controlled the rate of fire of the SSR via signal voltage and not resistance signal. And that the "SSRman-1P Intelligent Phase Control Module" is controlled via resistance signal.

I've read other threads where PID controllers where used in manual mode (or percentage mode) to control an SSR. Would the signal out of the PID controller not be voltage? Then may i presume that the SSR would also have to be voltage controlled?

Thanks, if i have that clear, i've just learned something new today. I will be sticking to the PSR style setup and will be ordering parts this week. I was hoping i could source them locally, but oh well, simplicity factor wins.

[MuleKicker]

Correct. Some of these guys are just buying a standard 3-32V SSR and connecting it to a pot. This will not work, and I was basically saying, dont be fooled by the way the ssr looks, you have to read the specs for the way you are using it.

[Andy Capp]

For those of you who use a keg with a 2200w element try one of these. I purchased the MXA056 a while ago and it hasn't faulted. Took in to the local Jaycar shop and fitted a box and turn knob to it. Cut up an extension cord for power and away she went. Rated to 4000w but i would stick to 2400w or under. Cost under 50.00 all up no hassles.
Appologise if this unit has already been discussed but i searched and found nothing.

[Andy Capp]

Perhaps if i include a link it might be helpful
http://www.kitstop.com.au/page13.htm

[peanutaxis]

For my small, first still I only need about 800 watts. So I have just purchased this product. It seems to work well:

http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.as ... rm=KEYWORD

There is also this product, which sounds like a kit which you need to put together (solder) yourself, but which will take 10 Ampere (~2300 Watts):

http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.as ... rm=KEYWORD



These are from an Australian (+online) store. Sorry if these have been mentioned before in the infinity of pages here!

[Anthoney]

Here is a link to the right controllers in 10, 25, 40, 60 and 100A versions.

http://www.uxcell.com/search.php?catego ... ctSearch=1

[deastham2000]

I use this.
http://www.sutronics.com/acatalog/detail_bfm240_13.html
Simply connect to 240v power supply and my 3000W boiler, bypassing the thermostat on the boiler. I attach it to a biscuit tin to dissipate the heat.
Dave E

[Andy Capp]

This is great. Keep the links coming. Perhaps we should have a seperate sticky thread just for links to ready built controllers. They play such an important role in distilling but not everyone is able ( like me ) to build these things from seperate components. Just an idea thats all.

[MexicanCustard]

Mule Kicker, I'm no electrician/electrical engineer but do you see a problem with using a Crydom MCPC1225 in lieu of the SSRMAN-1P and SSR?

[MuleKicker]

Mule Kicker, I'm no electrician/electrical engineer but do you see a problem with using a Crydom MCPC1225 in lieu of the SSRMAN-1P and SSR?

You could. The part number you gave is only rated for up to 140V/25A. I would think you would want something rated for 220V. You could essentially get a router speed controller to do a 120V controller, if thats what your after. Prolly cheaper.

[Anthoney]

I looked at the Suntronic link and would like to make/repeat the point that some of these controllers work in different ways and you should be aware of what it is doing and how. The Suntronic device is a burst fire controller while the other devices we were looking at are phase angle controllers.

Whole cycle, or burst fire control, in which the thyristor is switched on at the start of a supply cycle and switched off again after one or more cycles (or half cycles).

Phase angle control, in which the thyristor is switched on (fired) at some delayed time after the start of every half cycle, and switches off at the end of the half cycle (when the current falls to zero). With zero firing delay the whole half cycle is conducted. As the firing delay is increased less and less of the half cycle is conducted.

Burst fire means the heating element is at full power for some length of time, multiples of around one second in the case of the suntronic device. The on off cycle is varied to give different average power but the power is always full when it is on. So if you set the control for half you will not get half your supply voltage powering your heater you will get all your supply voltage powering your heater every other second.

AC voltage goes up and down in a sine wave varying from zero to peak voltage. Zero is across the centre line of the sine wave and the half cycles above the centre are one polarity direction and below the centre line the other direction, hence Alternating Current. Phase angle control gives a variable voltage output by choosing when in the cycle to turn on. Phase angle control effectively clips the tip off the sine wave and so limits the power provided according to how much is clipped off. So if you set it for half you will get half your supply voltage powering your heater.

Arguably phase angle control is a better option apart from the possibility of generating radio interference. This is not always a problem in practice but can happen.

Both work though and opinion is only that. My personal preference for phase angle is just me. Others will have their own opinion.

[rad14701]

True, burst fire can provide cleaner power with less noise but I prefer phase angle control because it requires far fewer components to achieve the same end result... I have never had noise issues and have even tested for it at my friends electronics shop...