Sharing stainless work connecting cap to boiler.

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Pikey
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Re: Sharing stainless work connecting cap to boiler.

Post by Pikey »

Just to be "bloody minded" - I bought some Bakers Fluid and a big old copperhead soldering iron off ebay tonight :lol:

Got some old stainless sink tops I kep "just in case" - so we'll see what they do - for those in Uk who struggle with "Harris".

Hope it works for you Mikey :thumbup:
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Mikey-moo
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Re: Sharing stainless work connecting cap to boiler.

Post by Mikey-moo »

OMG that was so much easier.

Job done.
Soooo much easier!
Soooo much easier!
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SaltyStaves
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Re: Sharing stainless work connecting cap to boiler.

Post by SaltyStaves »

Well done.

Don't stand around admiring it for too long though. That flux needs to be cleaned off ASAP. A soak in citric acid solution will do the trick.
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Mikey-moo
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Re: Sharing stainless work connecting cap to boiler.

Post by Mikey-moo »

All done. The Harris website recommended bicarb solution to neutalis the acid. It's drying off now. Looks awesome. Thanks for all your help guys :-)
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Re: Sharing stainless work connecting cap to boiler.

Post by RedwoodHillBilly »

Don't forget to do a leak test. i.e. apply about 3PSI and use a soap solution to check for leaks. Much easier to check now than when making your first run. Small leaks are easy to find now, but are a pain to find and correct later. Been there, done that.
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Swedish Pride
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Re: Sharing stainless work connecting cap to boiler.

Post by Swedish Pride »

Mikey-moo wrote:OMG that was so much easier.

Job done.
IMG_20170607_46507.jpg

that looks as solid as a copper pipe to bowl connection I've seen, good work lad
Don't be a dick
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Mikey-moo
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Re: Sharing stainless work connecting cap to boiler.

Post by Mikey-moo »

Yay for me. And my pressure test shows no leaks... that thing is stuck on good and proper... might even support my reflux column! I sense some cleaning runs coming on...
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der wo
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Re: Sharing stainless work connecting cap to boiler.

Post by der wo »

Mikey-moo wrote:Job done.
To solder a piece of copper onto a stainless lid is the beginning of a nice story always.
In this way, imperialism brings catastrophe as a mode of existence back from the periphery of capitalist development to its point of departure. - Rosa Luxemburg
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Mikey-moo
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Re: Sharing stainless work connecting cap to boiler.

Post by Mikey-moo »

You're not wrong Der Wo! And if I can do it on this 4l bowl... then I can do it on the lid of a 50l stock pot... If only I had the room!
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Re: Sharing stainless work connecting cap to boiler.

Post by Pyewacket »

Nice Mikey-moo. Glad you got it sorted out -- looks great!
chilimies
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Re: Sharing stainless work connecting cap to boiler.

Post by chilimies »

Tested this method on a sheet of stainless steel first. It seemed like the solder was not turning into a a good concave form but rather formed as a ball. Im using zinc chloride based liquid flux. Solder is 97%tin 3% silver.
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Yummyrum
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Re: Sharing stainless work connecting cap to boiler.

Post by Yummyrum »

chilimies wrote: Thu Nov 05, 2020 9:25 am Tested this method on a sheet of stainless steel first. It seemed like the solder was not turning into a a good concave form but rather formed as a ball. Im using zinc chloride based liquid flux. Solder is 97%tin 3% silver.
Sounds like you are using right flux and solder . Balling is usually too much heat applied . It causes the stainless to oxidise and go black , then the solder won’t adhere .

Clean it all back to shiney again and use a very gentle heat . If its a MAPP torch , it will need to bi so low that the flame wants to keep going out . An electric paint stripping Gun ( like a hair dryer on steroids) is about enough heat to work stainless .

Think less heat is better with stainless .
Get a hog hair paint brush . Use it to paint the flux on . Keep painting flux on .
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Re: Sharing stainless work connecting cap to boiler.

Post by chilimies »

Thanks Yummy. I'm actually trying to carefully use the oxy acetylene torch at my workplace to do the job. I know it gets way too hot and it is not suggested for this kind of soldering. The steel didn't turn black but rather light brownish. We also have an industrial heat gun so maybe I will try that next. And maybe let the flux sit for a bit longer before starting to solder.
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