Threaded copper fitting

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stringman
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Threaded copper fitting

Post by stringman »

Hi all
I am in the process of designing my mini boka still using a preserving boiler.
I will post it in the build section as I have many questions to ask.

What I was hoping to do was build a 2" slanted plate design.
I was hoping to solder a small section to the lid of the boiler and than have 2 sections of column, and the condenser (for ease of storage)
so that a few joins.

I looked at buying triclamp but they are hugely expensive. so I looked at making my own flanges. Looks good but I have no workshop.
Then I looked at threaded couplers and saw these

http://www.jtmplumbing.co.uk/pipe-fitti ... ale-pp6083" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

if I used some ftfe on the threads would this work?

I would be so muche easier and cheaper if it did (which means it wont LOL)
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skow69
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Re: Threaded copper fitting

Post by skow69 »

It would be more time consuming than tri clamps, but I don't see why it wouldn't work. The biggest problem would probably be the fragility of copper threads. I would get a thread file and chase them from time to time. Also try using liquid teflon. It might seal better than tape. It certainly would save a lot of money.

EDIT: It looks like the appropriate thread file could be $26. (I didn't look for bargains.) So you'd have to figure how many tri clamps you can buy for that. http://www.icscuttingtools.com/catalog/page_359B.pdf
Distilling at 110f and 75 torr.
I'm not an absinthe snob, I'm The Absinthe Nazi. "NO ABSINTHE FOR YOU!"
stringman
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Re: Threaded copper fitting

Post by stringman »

To be hones its not the cost of the thread file as such, more my fear of not being able to create my own tri clamp flange.

If I can manage to create the flange myself then great.

If I had to buy them pre made then the threaded option would be much better .

I am in the situation where time is precious and costly. so, much as I want to (try to ) make it all myself, I have to be realistic with my time and skills

I shall investigate more
cob
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Re: Threaded copper fitting

Post by cob »

Stringman preserving boiler sounds like a pressure cooker.

gaskets, and seals are an issue and if its aluminum it's not recommended.

Skow69; do you know what the carrier agent is that is used in liquid Teflon ?
be water my friend
stringman
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Re: Threaded copper fitting

Post by stringman »

Pretty sure its a cheap stainless steel item ( mor like a 30l drink urn) and it is German jah??
reslly sorry about that too little sleep, too much wine, too much good cider
Gaskets and seals WONT be a problem
I post one problem at a time so I can fix one problem at a time.
I know everyone is helping but I hat the people that ask 30 questions and expect other people to help them on 30 answers.
I plod through 1 at a time, so often I have answered questions already or the next batch aren't important yet. so when people answwr 3 questions in advance it just huts my head.
My engineering background has to me to do no more and no less that was asked- I can neither disappoint or irritate (so long as I do well on my task)
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skow69
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Re: Threaded copper fitting

Post by skow69 »

cob wrote:Skow69; do you know what the carrier agent is that is used in liquid Teflon ?

I do not. And I won't bother to make the point that, if applied properly, it would never make contact with vapor.

Rules is rules.
Distilling at 110f and 75 torr.
I'm not an absinthe snob, I'm The Absinthe Nazi. "NO ABSINTHE FOR YOU!"
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der wo
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Re: Threaded copper fitting

Post by der wo »

I would use normal ptfe tape for it. That's what ptfe tape is made for originally, to seal threads. I don't think you have to use each time new tape and one roll costs here 1€. I have connected a few times a 1" threaded gate valve to a VM, it worked perfectly.

But anyway, perhaps triclamps are cheaper all in all.
I have simple copper fittings without clamps or threads. Probably the cheapest solution.
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DBCFlash
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Re: Threaded copper fitting

Post by DBCFlash »

I use a 2 inch threaded fitting to attach my column to my pot-lid. Teflon tape seals it quite well. I have to crank it down pretty tight to make a perfect seal, but it works just fine.
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cob
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Re: Threaded copper fitting

Post by cob »

skow69 wrote:
cob wrote:Skow69; do you know what the carrier agent is that is used in liquid Teflon ?

I do not. And I won't bother to make the point that, if applied properly, it would never make contact with vapor.

Rules is rules.
interesting I could not find a single MSDS for liquid PTFE that DID NOT contain some warning.

avoid skin contact, do not inhale, not for use in confined space, flammable.

so if you actually know of a liquid PTFE product that is safe to use could be

that you should BOTHER posting a safe product name with it's MSDS so that others

don't use a toxic product.

"Rules is rules " what is the meaning of this ?
be water my friend
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skow69
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Re: Threaded copper fitting

Post by skow69 »

Just like I said in the last reply, I do not actually know of a liquid PTFE product that is safe to use. I was mistaken and I should have never mentioned it. Thank you for correcting me before any serious harm was done.
Distilling at 110f and 75 torr.
I'm not an absinthe snob, I'm The Absinthe Nazi. "NO ABSINTHE FOR YOU!"
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Yummyrum
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Re: Threaded copper fitting

Post by Yummyrum »

stringman wrote:To be hones its not the cost of the thread file as such, more my fear of not being able to create my own tri clamp flange.

If I can manage to create the flange myself then great.

If I had to buy them pre made then the threaded option would be much better .

I am in the situation where time is precious and costly. so, much as I want to (try to ) make it all myself, I have to be realistic with my time and skills
If this is the only still you will ever make then go the Threaded copper fitting ......it will solder on in a jiffy .
If there is any possibility that you will have other still heads then I beg you to go tri-clamp . I am still using the first still components because they are tri-clamp and I can interchange bits . It is the default distillers coupling and by using something else , you are making future problems for yourself .

Have faith in yourself . The very first dealings I had with copper was to pound out a huge flange over 4 inches in diameter to couple my 2" column to my boiler lid . It was a complete success .
Making a 2" tri-clamp flange after that was a doddle .
Flange.jpg
Now days I can't be bothered making flanges , I just buy them and solder them on .
Seriously , the price of tri-clamps and flanges is nothing in the big picture ..... and as you say time is precious .

If you want copper triclamps that are as easy to solder on , there are these https://www.stilldragon.eu/en/ferrules/ ... opper.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
or lead free brass ones are cheaper https://www.stilldragon.eu/en/ferrules/ ... brass.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
Good luck with the build
stringman
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Re: Threaded copper fitting

Post by stringman »

cob wrote:Stringman preserving boiler sounds like a pressure cooker.

gaskets, and seals are an issue and if its aluminum it's not recommended.

Skow69; do you know what the carrier agent is that is used in liquid Teflon ?
Its not a pressure cooker at all.
Its more like a large hot water urn with a heater below.
the lid fits it the container so I am hoping some pfte tape and flour paste will do the job
stringman
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Re: Threaded copper fitting

Post by stringman »

Yummyrum wrote:
stringman wrote:To be hones its not the cost of the thread file as such, more my fear of not being able to create my own tri clamp flange.

If I can manage to create the flange myself then great.

If I had to buy them pre made then the threaded option would be much better .

I am in the situation where time is precious and costly. so, much as I want to (try to ) make it all myself, I have to be realistic with my time and skills
If this is the only still you will ever make then go the Threaded copper fitting ......it will solder on in a jiffy .
If there is any possibility that you will have other still heads then I beg you to go tri-clamp . I am still using the first still components because they are tri-clamp and I can interchange bits . It is the default distillers coupling and by using something else , you are making future problems for yourself .

Have faith in yourself . The very first dealings I had with copper was to pound out a huge flange over 4 inches in diameter to couple my 2" column to my boiler lid . It was a complete success .
Making a 2" tri-clamp flange after that was a doddle .
Flange.jpg
Now days I can't be bothered making flanges , I just buy them and solder them on .
Seriously , the price of tri-clamps and flanges is nothing in the big picture ..... and as you say time is precious .

If you want copper triclamps that are as easy to solder on , there are these https://www.stilldragon.eu/en/ferrules/ ... opper.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
or lead free brass ones are cheaper https://www.stilldragon.eu/en/ferrules/ ... brass.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
Good luck with the build
Wow that flange looks great how did you manage to make a 4" flange? That's exactly what I need.
I'm a bit confused by your opening comment about it being the only still I make ( it probably will be) because the whole idea of screwed ends is that I can take them apart and rebuild them are you saying that its not a good idea to re use the connectors- I would seal them with pfte each time
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