Hey guys im toe just showin off my first few builds

Many like to post about a first successful ferment (or first all grain mash), or first still built/bought or first good run of the still. Tell us about all of these great times here.
Pics are VERY welcome, we drool over pretty copper 8)

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Toe
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Hey guys im toe just showin off my first few builds

Post by Toe »

http://i1378.photobucket.com/albums/ah8 ... 5dezi.jpeg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow. my first pot still

http://i1378.photobucket.com/albums/ah8 ... ab5v34.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

My controller I built for 30 bucs has pid and manual overide and scrs can handle 14a 240. Thats about 4500watts. Im a wizz with electronics

Building it http://i1378.photobucket.com/albums/ah8 ... rh3vem.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow


My first boka 5ft 2in pipe. Havent used yet but thats what the pid in the controller is for will regulate temp to .1degree http://i1378.photobucket.com/albums/ah8 ... t9max.jpeg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

Even got the template from this forum thankyou
http://i1378.photobucket.com/albums/ah8 ... whqwu.jpeg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

And the most rewarding part http://i1378.photobucket.com/albums/ah8 ... lnykx.jpeg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

Sorry uncle jhon it just went missing vanished I swear
:roll: :roll: http://i1378.photobucket.com/albums/ah8 ... qgrrf.jpeg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
StillerBoy
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Re: Hey guys im toe just showin off my first few builds

Post by StillerBoy »

Toe.. if you want some members to comment of your build, you should re-post your pictures into this forum.. off site posting of pictures is not welcome for possible virus nor will the pictures follow the posting..

Mars
" I know quite certainly that I myself have no special talent. Curiosity, Obsession and dogged endurance, combined with self-criticism, have brought me to my knowledge and understanding "

– Albert Einstein
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Yummyrum
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Re: Hey guys im toe just showin off my first few builds

Post by Yummyrum »

Toe wrote:
My controller I built for 30 bucs has pid and manual overide and scrs can handle 14a
My first boka 5ft 2in pipe. Havent used yet but thats what the pid in the controller is for will regulate temp to .1degree
Toe
Adjusting boiler power is the wrong approach to running your Boka . You run it by setting the amount of takeoff with the needle valve ( and indirectly the reflux ratio )

Sure it is handy to run at reduced power ( note I did not say temperature ) while equalizing and drawing off fore shots . But acter that you want to be running as much power as you can before the thing floods or you might find yourself sitting in theshed for days while the run finishes
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still_stirrin
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Re: Hey guys im toe just showin off my first few builds

Post by still_stirrin »

Toe wrote:...My controller I built for 30 bucs has pid and manual overide and scrs can handle 14a 240. Thats about 4500watts. Im a wizz with electronics...My first boka 5ft 2in pipe. Havent used yet but thats what the pid in the controller is for will regulate temp to .1degree...
Can't see your pictures because they're externally hosted. That's not how we do it here.

But the temperature controlled PiD is not what you need for a still. What you need is proportional control....% total power. With some PiDs, you can set it to manual and then set the % power. But you don't need a thermocouple to do that. In fact, if you think you can control it by setting a desired temperature, you'll be "chasing your tail" all night long.

A Bokakob is a liquid managed (LM) reflux still head. You regulate the reflux ratio by the rate of liquid you draw off of the collection cup. What you don't draw off spills back down the column for additional reflux. Closing the LM valve results in 100% reflux, that is, all the condensed vapor will be sent back down the column for reflux (and additional purification).

The heat input simply adjusts the rate of vapor production, not the purity. Purity is increased by the reflux ratio, or number of cycles the vapor is condensed and reboiled. More heat in conjunction with more reflux increases the rate and purity of the collected spirit. If you modulate the heat input lower, your vapor production will slow, and the number of reflux cycles will diminish, resulting in lower purity.

For more knowledge on how the still head operates and how distillation processes work, I suggest reviewing Cranky's Spoon Feed thread hotlinked in my signature. There's a lot for you to learn yet.
ss
My LM/VM & Potstill: My build thread
My Cadco hotplate modification thread: Hotplate Build
My stock pot gin still: stock pot potstill
My 5-grain Bourbon recipe: Special K
Pikey
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Re: Hey guys im toe just showin off my first few builds

Post by Pikey »

Here's a link to how to post pictures :-

http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopi ... =7&t=66849 :)
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nuntius01
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Re: Hey guys im toe just showin off my first few builds

Post by nuntius01 »

nice pid set up. i too run a pid set up that i built. they are essential right that you need to look at it as power and not necessarily temp.. when you run your rig, run it full out when it's full of water. this should give you a rough indication of the max setting your boiler can go. i run a 5500w element. at max power it takes me 1 hour for a raging boil of 13 gallons of water. that being said, the thermocouple shows the pid to max read 103 degrees c. bottom line, don't rely to solidly on the temp setting on the pid as a temp. but understand what it means as to how much heat your element is adding to your boiler.
I'm just the bank and the mule

post your still pics here
http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopi ... 16&t=66917
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