SAFETY

This hobby is fun & enjoyable, but it is not tiddlywinks. Be safe!

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hstuurman
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Re: SAFETY

Post by hstuurman »

I just don't read one of the most important rules, and I've read question's about it to often:
NEVER RUN YOUR STILL WITH A WASH ABOVE 45% ABV!
Henk

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rtalbigr
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Re: SAFETY

Post by rtalbigr »

Uncle Jesse, I give up. I googled several different ways and I cna't find Connie Kegs. What are they?

Big R
"Necessity is the plea for every infringement of human freedom. It is the argument of tyrants; it is the creed of slaves." William Pitt
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Re: SAFETY

Post by blind drunk »

Try corny, corney or cornelius keg.

bd
I do all my own stunts
rtalbigr
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Re: SAFETY

Post by rtalbigr »

OK, Thx bd.

Big R
"Necessity is the plea for every infringement of human freedom. It is the argument of tyrants; it is the creed of slaves." William Pitt
american road iron
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Re: Safety Pledge

Post by american road iron »

hoochinoo wrote:For safety,

p.s., I think there should be a safety pledge taken to become a member of this forum!

I think this is really a good idea. It is evident by the number of us noob's and the trial and error with the different issues we contnually bring up. Mine, turbo yeast. And there is plenty of posts describing why not to do something.

I have read all post and responses on safety and feel like I am ready to make my first run this weekend. Thank you all for taking time to post your bad and good.
ninjasword71
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Re: SAFETY

Post by ninjasword71 »

Always being one with the still. Checking email or doing facebook is a bad thing. Leaks can happen anytime. You need to inspect all connections for leaks water and the good stuff. I have a fire extinguisher close by and use a fan for circulation. Always remember to have anything ready for any needed emergency. Screw driver for water fitting clamps, quick shut-down method, ventilation, no plastics in contact with hi alc. Never assume and be there during the whole process. Never let confidence fool you!
chris69ca
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Re: SAFETY

Post by chris69ca »

just letting people know my safety set up i have a charged hose sitting right next to the door (outside 1) as im not staying inside if it gets bad im getting the fuk out its a outside shed so it is piratical for this and the door is wide open and the roof has lots of ventilation so the shed has quite a bit before i do anything i never leave i all ways have flour paste pre prepared and my gas supply is a few mitres away from the shed so i can cut the gas and kill fire at the same time in worst case scenario

yes im paranoid
Australian made and Australian owned that the way i want it
Squint
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Re: SAFETY

Post by Squint »

5 killed

http://uk.news.yahoo.com/five-die-myste ... 05783.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
chris69ca
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Re: SAFETY

Post by chris69ca »

Squint wrote:5 killed

http://uk.news.yahoo.com/five-die-myste ... 05783.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
that is bad as but does show how dangerous it can be
but i do not agree to selling for profit of our product
btw i have friends that buy me corn and a few other things and i give them a couple of bottles but that is more for the stuff it takes then anything else by no reason would i accept money for the stuff
Australian made and Australian owned that the way i want it
Ayay
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Re:

Post by Ayay »

goose eye wrote:i would check an see how yalls homeowner insurance policy deals with illegal activeitys. what they gonna see after a fire is a excellarent was involved. that could means arson an insurance fraud to some districk aturnee. mostly it means alot of money an some time.
Insurance policy is only clear when a claim is maid.
cornflakes...stripped and refluxed
bob007
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Re:

Post by bob007 »

Flash Clampet wrote:safety question:
whats a safe and enviromentally friendly way of disposing of heads?
Let the wife use it as nail polish remover
frozenthunderbolt
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Re: Re:

Post by frozenthunderbolt »

bob007 wrote:
Flash Clampet wrote:safety question:
whats a safe and enviromentally friendly way of disposing of heads?
Let the wife use it as nail polish remover
burn them
Where has all the rum gone? . . .

Every new member should read this before doing anything else:
chris69ca
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Re: Re:

Post by chris69ca »

bob007 wrote:
Flash Clampet wrote:safety question:
whats a safe and enviromentally friendly way of disposing of heads?
Let the wife use it as nail polish remover
my partner does this and good stain remover for the bench tops bloody red cordial
Australian made and Australian owned that the way i want it
seaguy
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Re: SAFETY

Post by seaguy »

Making your own controller with a high current solid state device? Most electronics people already know that these devices almost always fail in a "shorted" condition. That is a good reason to fuse the high current component and never leave it own and unattended for very long. What I am saying is: when a solid state relay, scr,triac, diac,mosfet or what ever shorts this means the power to the heater stays ON if the fuse or circuit breaker doesn't blow or trip. I have been "electrical/electronic" for many years and my advice to noob's in this area is: Protect your circuit using the correct wire,fuse, and breaker sizes. Power your rig with a cord and plug. "Unplugged" means dead circuit. No shock hazard. Amen. :thumbup:
2" x 5' Boka, 3/8" coil on 3/4" cold finger, SS 15gal 240v 5.5kw sand element, Tincup's NE555 controller.
E85andtonic
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Re: SAFETY

Post by E85andtonic »

seaguy wrote:...my advice to noob's in this area is: Protect your circuit using the correct wire,fuse, and breaker sizes. Power your rig with a cord and plug. "Unplugged" means dead circuit. No shock hazard. Amen. :thumbup:
Seaguy - thanks for the advise. I'm in the process of having electric run to my shed and I'm following your prescription for safety. Running 8 gauge wire, dual 40amp circuits, 220V, installing a dedicated outlet and plug. 2 additional items:
1 - Following code for wire depth - first guy put it in shallow. Digging it up and going >24"
2 - Installing a 'quick disconnect' on the outside of my house for the electric line to the shed. So if my shed is on fire, the Fire Department doesn't have to break down the door to my house to kill power to the shed before they spray water on it...

I'm still a long way away from my first run, but I'll take the safety pledge!
Stay tuned... I'll post something clever in my signature at any moment.
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GuyFawkes
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Re: SAFETY

Post by GuyFawkes »

When checking for leaks, I recommend a mirror. I keep one outside my condenser, if there is vapor not knocked down it will fog up.

As a firm rule, I never store short term or long term in glass. Always stainless steel water bottles, I get them from the dollar store. Plain 24 oz SS bottle, no lid. If it needs a lid I use a PTFE stopper (just a metal pipe or bolt wrapped in tape until it fits snug).

I am paranoid when it comes to fire, I run my still in the garage with the door open, a side door open, three fans circulating air through the openings, and a fire extinguisher at every door as well as a charged hose and a bucket of water. Recently I have been replacing the bucket of water with a bucket of sand in an attempt to waste less water. Should fire occur, I'll dump the sand on top and immediately go for the nearest extinguisher or bail out the open garage door.

As for heads, I save them. They're useful for many things: cleaning runs, paint thinner, sterilizing, fuel, etc. Never know when you can use it, a big aluminum can stores them nicely. If I go through it faster than I use it I pour it in the rocks as weed and ant killer.
Experience is what you get right after you need it.
WV Shine
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Re: SAFETY

Post by WV Shine »

Guy, careful those stainless bottles don't have a plastic lining... most don't but I'd check. :thumbup:
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GuyFawkes
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Re: SAFETY

Post by GuyFawkes »

WV Shine wrote:Guy, careful those stainless bottles don't have a plastic lining... most don't but I'd check. :thumbup:
They don't, they were actually made to use for camping to use to make soup over campfires. They do have plastic lids that I immediately toss after buying, currently searching for metal lids that fits them....
Experience is what you get right after you need it.
Resasi
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Re: SAFETY

Post by Resasi »

As a newbie, delighted by all this great information. In Saudi people kept very hush hush about their activities so it was all by guess and by God.

Done the spilling boiling hot liquid down the leg and over my foot, that kept me amused for months.

Great site, great thread, and great advice.
bruvvamoff
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Re: SAFETY

Post by bruvvamoff »

It may have been mentioned before but I'd like to stress the dangers of smoking around the still.
And if you must do a flame test, do it in the next room. :)
Also if you are using a fan for ventilation, make sure it isn't blowing on or near a naked flame.
Remember ethanol is heavier than air so it will sink to the floor.
However as mentioned earlier, a good still shouldn't leak.
I don't argue, I debate.
Arkanshine
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Re: SAFETY

Post by Arkanshine »

I never distill inside, my rig is parked out behind the barn against a tin wall. I got a jack ass for an alarm, very dependable. He sounds off if anything approaches. And I can hear the rocks crunch before anybody gets down the driveway.
Copper is the new chrome, I like the way it "shines"
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GuyFawkes
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Re: SAFETY

Post by GuyFawkes »

Arkanshine wrote:I never distill inside, my rig is parked out behind the barn against a tin wall. I got a jack ass for an alarm, very dependable. He sounds off if anything approaches. And I can hear the rocks crunch before anybody gets down the driveway.
I see you havent been hit with the curse of suburbia..... color me jealous, someday Ill convince the lady to let us move where we can have some land
Experience is what you get right after you need it.
willsrn2000
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Re: SAFETY

Post by willsrn2000 »

Resasi wrote:As a newbie, delighted by all this great information. In Saudi people kept very hush hush about their activities so it was all by guess and by God.

Done the spilling boiling hot liquid down the leg and over my foot, that kept me amused for months.

Great site, great thread, and great advice.
I was a blue flame operator in Saudi.
What years you there?
Sold my still to a pilot when I left and he made more money with it than he did flying.
Until he blew the door of the garage off.
Left his still running unattended and went to sleep. When he went out to check it and switched on the lights, BAM!
ELT
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Re: SAFETY

Post by ELT »

What is the highest aBV you should charge a boiler with? I have heard no more than 40%. For example would you water down an all feints run to less than 40%?
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Bushman
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Re: SAFETY

Post by Bushman »

ELT wrote:What is the highest aBV you should charge a boiler with? I have heard no more than 40%. For example would you water down an all feints run to less than 40%?
If your doing an all feints then yes it should be 40% or less, the other option is to add it to your next run.
thomasedwin
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Re: SAFETY

Post by thomasedwin »

I purchased a 15 gallon stainless steel stock pot, (ballington brand) to convert into a boiler. The sales ad claimed that it's made from commercial grade stainless steel so I figured it was 18/8 or 18/10 and safe for use as a boiler. I understand that a good test to tell that it's quality stainless steel is to see if a magnet sticks to the metal, If a magnet sticks to it it's low grade stainless steel like 18/0 and may or may not be safe to use as a boiler. I went over this new stockpot with a refrigerator magnet and I found that the handle on the lid would attract the magnet and stick to it but not very strongly but the magnet had very little or no attraction at all to the lid itself. Then I checked the rest of the pot with the magnet, there was no attraction at all to the sides, rim, bottom or the double riveted handles on the pot. The only place the magnet was attracted to or would stick to was the welded handle on the lid. I don't know what to think about this. Does this mean the pot and the lid are made from good quality 18/8 or 18/10 stainless steel but they used some low grade 18/0 or lower to make the handle on the lid??? I have read that 18/0, 18/8 and 18/10, stainless steel is good and safe to use as a boiler but I have also read that the lower grade 18/0 that has 18% chromium and 0% nickel is much lest corrosion resistant and will rust after some use when the 18/8 and 18/10 grades will not rust at all and last for many years. So what's the deal with this???? Is the lower grade 18/0 stainless just as good and safe as the higher grade 18/8 or 18/10 stainless????? I want to be absolutely sure of what I'm doing when I fire this thing up.
goose eye
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Re: SAFETY

Post by goose eye »

If it as it's ok.
use to use magnet test to. was schooled here that if as has been
worked it can attract magnets

So IM Tole
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LWTCS
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Re: SAFETY

Post by LWTCS »

Yes 304 is noted to be found in 90% of all ethenol plants here in the US.
And if cold worked, , 304 can attract a magnet.
Trample the injured and hurdle the dead.
cob
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Re: SAFETY

Post by cob »

aluminum rivets are common with riveted handles on stainless stock pots.
rivets should be checked for aluminum and replaced, they will leak sooner or later.
fill the pot with water and leave it for a week, if the rivets change color or look chalky they are aluminum.
be water my friend
Black Eye
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Re: SAFETY

Post by Black Eye »

LWTCS wrote:Yes 304 is noted to be found in 90% of all ethenol plants here in the US.
And if cold worked, , 304 can attract a magnet.

+1 on that. I do a lot of aerospace work and materials have to be certified. I had certs on some 300 series stainless and after simply turning on a lathe it got magnetic. I was surprised how strong that magnetism was so I sent it out for testing and sure enough it was the 321 stainless I ordered.

This really won't apply to kegs or anything but 400 series stainless is magnetic. If you are building something from scratch and you happen to use it, don't be surprised to find that it attracts your magnet.
Only way to drink all day... is to start in the morning
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