Has some of the info in it.
Basically, I attached a 90 degree compression union to the end of the coil (I think it was 3/8 inch). This fits perfectly in the plastic nose area. Then I cut the bottom of the plastic nose out with an Xacto knife so I could attach a small length of 3/8 inch copper tube to the other end of the compression union and have room for it to exit the bottom. I angled/bent this tube slightly so that it angled out..away from the body of the distiller and into the top of a collection jar.
Husker used a 3/8 copper tube with a flared end...to sit up against the end of the coil. Either way, the point is to fix it so you aren't running your distillate through all that plastic/silicone.
Disassemble: Take off the grommet that seals the head to the pot (make specific note of the position/angle of it so you can put it back on correctly...or it will leak). Loosen the screws and separate the plastic shroud on top from the head/motor/coil assembly. If you look under the bottom, where the coil enters the body of the pot from the top lid, there is a small rubber silicone grommet that holds the coil in and seals it from the pot. Push the coil up slightly from there, and lift it straight up, wiggle a bit. And the coil will come up/off. When putting it back...note that some of the fins straddle the plastic frame at key points. Careful not to bend them. Work slowly.
I believe Husker had a mod of soldering a small deflector next to the exit hole in the top to act as a splash shield. The thing was/is, we were using the water distiller versions of the modified easy stills. It required an additional mod of soldering up the chlorine vent hole. It also had higher wattage (temps) so it tended to boil more vigorously. Worked fine for stripping wash, but I sure wouldn't want to try and do cuts on it (although I guess it might be possible). Distillate came out hot.