Phase Angle Control modules

[Pamulli]

--Mod Edit--
This topic explains different phase angle control module builds. Please read and understand what you are doing before attempting a build like this. Loss of life or property can result from improper use of electric circuits.

Original Topic:http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=3342

OK so here are the parts list for my PSR-25 based controller and pics. I got everything except the on/off switch from Newark since Mouser doesn't carry the PSR-25 and didn't have the Pot I wanted. You can see how it's wired in Snideman's previous post. http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopi ... 0#p6842835

PSR-25 SSR - Newark # 97K7822 $44.65 http://www.newark.com/united-automation ... tt=97K7822" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
Honeywell 2W 250Kohm Pot - Newark # 04F8770 $6.61 http://www.newark.com/honeywell-s-c-cla ... tt=04F8770" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow (Note that the picture on Newark is wrong, but you can see an accurate picture by clicking on the data sheet info)
Big Heat sink - Newark #93K7581 $18.29 http://www.newark.com/crydom/he-54/rela ... tt=93K7581" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow There is some debate whether one this big is really needed, but since the documentation on the PSR-25 makes it sound like you need a good one, I didn't want to chance it.

Another source for custom quality heat sinks - HERE

That's all that is absolutely required however I added a few parts.
Knob for Pot with 1-10 markings - Newark #94F9955 $7.25 http://www.newark.com/tyco-electronics- ... tt=94F9955" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
Leviton 30Amp Double Pole AC Switch from HD $10 Note that a 20amp off the shelf AC switch isn't big enough since most are actually rated around 16amps max and with a 4500w element you are around 19amps.

Here are the pictures of the final build.

The Pot, AC switch and PSR-25 are all grounded, but it's hard to tell in the pic.

I used the old mounting plate from the dimmer in my previous failed attempt to hold the new Pot.

It's in a plastic box since I couldn't find a metal junction box big enough for that heatsink, but I'm fine with that. As you can see I added an off the shelf AC switch so I can cut the power without unplugging.

I just did a cleaning run with plain water and it worked great. Brought about 5gal to a boil in 25 minutes and I could easily back it down below boiling. Now I need to do another cleaning run with some actual alcohol.

Overall I'm very happy with the final product although this took WAY too long and ended up costing a lot more than I had planned. The PSR-25 build is a whole lot easier than the other builds in this thread and there is a lot less you have to understand to get it working. I would definitely recommend this to anyone who is like me and has very little knowledge of electrical circuits and diagrams.

Thanks to everyone on this forum that answered all my newbie questions over and over again.

[MuleKicker]

What is phase angle control? Phase angle control, also called phase cutting, is a method of pulse width modulation (PWM) for power limiting, applied to AC voltages. Phase angle control is often used to control the amount of voltage, current or power that a power supply feeds to its load. It does this in much the same way that a pulse width modulated (PWM) supply would pulse on and off to create an average value at its output. Here is a diagram of Phase control in action.

MOTORPACIMG.gif (34.88 KiB) Viewed 44315 times

Why is this important for heat control to my boiler? Most hotplates, electric stovetops, and waterheater controls cycle. Meaning, they turn completely on, or completely off at a slow rate. This causes surging in the boiler. Imagine you're driving your car, to maintain a speed of say 30mph, you dont floor the accelerator, let off, floor it again, and so on. You ease into in, varying the amount of power to the wheels. The same principle applies to providing power to your boiler. Phase Contol offers you the smooth power to the boiler, instead of the full on, full off method.

[MuleKicker]

Heat control by phase angle control. This set of direction is designed for United states electric setup. Other countries may vary. For this setup you will need a few components. They will all be explained. The main part of this controller is the phase angle control module. This attaches to the Solid state relay to turn the relay on and off at precise times to control current to your boiler
Here is the data sheet for the phase module:

SSRMAN-1P_manual_rev8.2.pdf

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Solid state relay. You need a special solid state relay for this module to work correctly. It needs to be a 'burst fire' or 'random turn on' relay. A zero cross relay will not work. Random turn on relays will turn on and off exactly when you command them to. A zero cross relay, does exactly that, turns on only when the AC wave crosses the zero point. Crydom makes a line of random turn on relays. The one I used is a 220v 25A. Part number D2425-10 or CWD4825-10. You can use a smaller one if you like, but make sure to get one rated for the load you plan on controlling. 220v, 25a is good for a 5500w element.
(V x A = W)

relay.jpg (14.49 KiB) Viewed 44314 times

Next you will need a 25K ohm potentiometer. You can easily get these on ebay, along with all the other parts mentioned here.

pot.jpg (10.46 KiB) Viewed 44314 times

[MuleKicker]

24VAC transformer. You need one of these to power and time the phase module. It needs to be an AC transformer.
Depending on the size of your element, you will need either 12g or 10g wire. Also keep in mind the length of your cord. If your going over 10-15ft, I would go with 10g if your close to 20A. Otherwise 12g will handle 20A fine.
Heat sink. You will need to fix your solid state relay to a heat sink. This is a must do, as solid state relays make alot of heat during operation. If you do not do this it will dramatically shorten the life of your relay. As in, you wont make it through a run with out a heat sink. I used a 2x4x6 aluminum heat sink, they are available for a good price on ebay.
The data sheet for the phase module gives the schematic for wire hook ups. It should look something like this. I fit mine inside a 6 inch outdoor junction box. drill a couple holes and fasten your cable clamps in. Strip and feed your cables in and fasten them down. Take the black wire from both cables and fasten them to the 2 load lugs on the relay. Now you have 2 line wires from your transformer and 2 load wires. The load wires go to the phase module. one line wire goes into the connection with the 2 white wires from your cables. the other goes into the connection with the 2 green wires from your cables. Your transformer must be hooked up to one of the 220v wires (black or white) and the other to ground (green). Unless you have a 220v transformer. This is done to get 110v to the transformer and not the full 220v. The 2 load wires go into the small lugs labeled on the phase module. The 3 pot wires go into the 3 labeled lugs on the phase module. Check to make sure the dip switches on the phase module are in the right position for potentiometer use. This is covered on the phase module data sheet.

Picture of the heat sink attached. Keep in mind there is a hole cut in the plastic box and the relay is mounted directly to the heat sink, with di-electric grease in the union to help dissapate the heat.

You should have something like this when you are done.

Get yourself a pair of plugs, one male and one female, that are rated for your load. Most 3 prong 220v plugs have a gold/silver/green screw. Black wire goes to gold, white to silver, and green to ground.
There you have it. You turn the knob one way for more heat, and the other for less. The center lug on the pot goes to the center lug on the phase module. the 2 outer wires can go either way. One way, clockwise for more power/CCW for less. If you reverse the 2 outer wires, CCW will give you more power, CW less. Minor details.
Congrats, you have just built yourself a Phase angle heat controller.

[MuleKicker]

Here is the schematic of a PSR25 (MK5500) build. I have added an optional 25A current meter into the schematic. The white / black wires are interchangeable, meaning the white may go through the meter, and black through the module. Or vise versa. Green is ground. Keep in mind if you install the meter, it must be rated for at least 25A A/C current.

Picture inside completed unit with amp meter installed.

GOOD PLACE TO BUY CUSTOM HEAT SINKS

TIPS:
*Make sure you ground your PSR module / heat sink, or it will not work correctly.
*Make sure you cut a hole in the back of the plastic box, so the heat sink mounts directly to the module. Dielectric grease, or heat sink compound is needed between the module and the heat sink to ensure good heat transfer.
*The potentiometer has 3 terminals. You will use 2 of them. The center terminal, and one of the outside terminals. Which one you choose will determine if the power ramps up when the dial is turned clockwise, or counter clockwise. The unused terminal can be clipped off.
* If you are using a current meter in your build, make sure the lugs are not too long, or the placement of your module does not interfere with them. If one of the live lugs on the meter come into contact with one of the live lugs on the module, you will let the smoke out of your module. Trust me, you will know this the second you plug it in.