Thinking 4 plate modular 4" flute on the cheap thoughts?

[bitter]

All this flute talk lately has me thinking....

X
t4x4x2ss1
SPECIAL SHORT TEE
Sizes:
4" x 4" x 2" Special Short Tee
$31.50
-
4
+ $126.00
X
re5x4b
REDUCER BOWL SHAPE
Size:
4" x 2" Reducer Bowl Shape
$17.25
-
2
+ $34.50
X
clamps304CS
STANDARD TRICLAMP
Size:
4" Stainless Steel TriClamp
$7.25
-
6
+ $43.50
X
2bend180
180° BENDS
Sizes:
2" 180° Bend
$22.00
-
1
+ $22.00
X
teflongasket
TEFLON GASKET
Size:
4" Teflon Gasket
$1.35
-
6
+ $8.10
X
teflongasket
TEFLON GASKET
Size:
2" Teflon Gasket
$0.50
-
10
+ $5.00
X
clamps304CS
STANDARD TRICLAMP
Size:
2" Stainless Steel TriClamp
$4.25
-
6
+ $25.50
X
sightglass
SIGHT GLASS LENS
Size:
2" Sight Glass Lens
$2.25
-
4
+ $9.00
X
triclamppipes
4" TRICLAMP PIPES
Sizes:
4" x 4"
$20.00
-
1
+ $20.00
X
tc2
2" TRICLAMP PIPES
Sizes:
2" x 20"
$19.50
-
1
+ $19.50

So about $315Us plus shipping

Not sure about plates but will make the. Wonder what is better seen great success with both perforated plates and bubble caps. Leaning towards bubble caps myself.

Instead of a Dephlegmator thinking of doing a copper coil like pfshine did use the 4" x4" section. Might have down a little into top plat section.. but I'm ok with that if I need a longer coil

For product condensor do a similar thing to the 20" 2" tube. Or doing like DAD did using the flexible stainless.. Might work for above also.

This will connect to my 15g keg that has 2 220v 5500 watt elements. Most likely run 1 the elements on 110v to help heatup time and give a little extra if 5500 is not enough

What are peoples thoughts and comments on this. any parts I am missing? Other than water plumbing and the soft copper for coils?

Darn Yak I blame you... also ready all 80+ pages of the flute build thread....

Thanks,
B

[Euphoria]

One 240 volt 5,500 watt heating element works fine for me, and would give you more than enough heat for a 15 gallon boiler. I only use one element in my 25 gallon boiler, and wind up having to turn it down to about 2/3 power once it has heated up, which usually takes about 40~45 minutes with a full charge in the pot. It's not that it will hurt to have the second one, only that it isn't necessary unless you're in a really big hurry. You'll definitely want to do some research and pick a few brains here as to what kind of depleg, or alternative, will work to knock down your vapors properly. There's a lot more BTU's to knock back with a 4" flute than with a pot still. You'll want to have the capability to be able to go into full reflux.

[yakattack]

First the flute. Then the boiler :p I tell ya. I just spent 3 hours squeezing corn. I can't wait to not have to do that anymore.

[bitter]

Thanks,

I have 2 elements as I still need 220v and this was a temporary work around till I get 220v to were the still will be run.

This is the thread http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopi ... 2#p7344942 I was thinking. Since its working so well was thinking less height might work ok..... but 4" might be pushing it I wanted 8" but its outa stock so updated things to use a 12" section.

LOL @ the boiler... I would like to go 25g.. but the 15g will do for now.. I bet if you found an old stainless upright washing machine... could use the drum to make a nice grain spinner not like need any more projects do you Yak

B

[yakattack]

Haha there's never enough projects. Besides with the hybrid boiler I won't need a grain spinner.

[Yummyrum]

Bitter , Eff'n you are trying to save some money you don't necessarily need to make another PC ......whats wrong with the one you are already using ? So long as it can handle the power you already have , it will be fine ...Shotty , Liebig or worm .

Regarding Deflag , I would be hesitant about a single coil in a 4x4" shell....I have a 4 x4" shotty deflag and it suffers if I push too hard .I would think that a single coil might need considerably more than 4" ....perhaps 8" or more

There is a huge "gap " up the guts of a single coil and you might win by stuffing it with scrubbers but I doubt it especially with the power you are talking .
Perhaps a double coil might help or a coil and cold finger but you are on your own there . Might be best to stick with a standard shotty type deflag

[bitter]

I only have a boka and want to speed up runs. So like starting over...

B

[raketemensch]

The DAD-style stainless condenser works well for a dephleg too. I've got 48" of 1/2" in mine, and it knocks down all 5500 watts no problem.

[Oldvine Zin]

What is your plan for sealing those site glasses?

[bitter]

Thanks raketemensch!

Oldvine Zin I have tri clamps on the list to hold the glass. I also have PTFE 2" seals on the list for them. I will have to mod then by sanding 1 side flat I expect. My backup plan for if that does not work it PTFE tap and then the clamp.

Still not pulled the trigger on this negotiating with wife on $$$ expenditure.

B

[Oldvine Zin]

Oldvine Zin I have tri clamps on the list to hold the glass. I also have PTFE 2" seals on the list for them. I will have to mod then by sanding 1 side flat I expect. My backup plan for if that does not work it PTFE tap and then the clamp.

B

Bitter that's what I thought you were going to do, curious how well that tri clamp will seal on the flat glass. I'm about to try the same on a gin head that I'm building, my fall back plan is to use one of the brass sight glass kits although I don't care for that look or maybe machine up some holders that fit the tri clamp

ovz

[Badmotivator]

I experimented with glass-on-ferrule and had to give it up. Here's my story. Hope this helps: http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopi ... 88&t=54925

[bitter]

Badmotivator, Did you try everlast seal? I think that might be my first try.`

B

[Badmotivator]

Badmotivator, Did you try everlast seal? I think that might be my first try.`

B

Nope. My experiments got too expensive and I retreated to the safety of the brass sight glass kits. I've been very happy with those.

[bitter]

What seal do the brass sight glass kits use?

Thanks!

B

[Badmotivator]

What seal do the brass sight glass kits use?

Thanks!

B

<cough>silicone<cough>

I imagine that if that bothers you, you could easily and safely replace the inner (product-facing) gasket with a shaved PTFE gasket. But I don't have any experience with that.

[bitter]

Yeah the silcone thing is my problem...

The BRASS SIGHT GLASS KIT increases the cost by $68.00 Hmm maybe can fine ptfe gaskets for it.... Could make ever last seals though.

B

[Swedish Pride]

would you not be able to wrap the silicone in PTFE tape, that way you have the flexibility of silicone but no silicone exposed to the likker, three wraps or more should do it

[bitter]

I'd rather use an everlast than risk the silicon... Just me better safe than sorry.

B

[corene1]

Have you considered wrapping the perimeter of the sight glass with several wraps of Teflon tape to create the gasket? You may also need to put a taper on the outside edge of the sight glass to prevent the clamp from putting excessive pressure on the square edge of the glass. Also curious about the thickness of the glass . Will it fit in the clamp without machining a pocket in the flange? Just asking as the glass I have is about 1/4 inch thick.

[Oldvine Zin]

Yeah the silcone thing is my problem...

The BRASS SIGHT GLASS KIT increases the cost by $68.00 Hmm maybe can fine ptfe gaskets for it.... Could make ever last seals though.

B

I'm going to try a SD type sight-glass on my new gin head, I have a great resource for ptfe o rings here in Seattle ( Omni Gaskets) They buffed me out with ptfe o-rings for my trap adapter sight glass holders. my other option was McMaster Carr http://www.mcmaster.com/#o-rings/=1166bsx" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
Hope that helps
ovz

[Oldvine Zin]

Have you considered wrapping the perimeter of the sight glass with several wraps of Teflon tape to create the gasket? You may also need to put a taper on the outside edge of the sight glass to prevent the clamp from putting excessive pressure on the square edge of the glass. Also curious about the thickness of the glass . Will it fit in the clamp without machining a pocket in the flange? Just asking as the glass I have is about 1/4 inch thick.

P2070010.JPG

corene lots of options on glass thickness here at McMaster http://www.mcmaster.com/#sight-glass/=1166ggs" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

ovz

[corene1]

Have you considered wrapping the perimeter of the sight glass with several wraps of Teflon tape to create the gasket? You may also need to put a taper on the outside edge of the sight glass to prevent the clamp from putting excessive pressure on the square edge of the glass. Also curious about the thickness of the glass . Will it fit in the clamp without machining a pocket in the flange? Just asking as the glass I have is about 1/4 inch thick.

P2070010.JPG

corene lots of options on glass thickness here at McMaster http://www.mcmaster.com/#sight-glass/=1166ggs" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

ovz

That is a great link for glass. When I was tinkering with my sight glasses I found that the thinner ones were much more sensitive to any misplaced pressure, I broke a few in testing . The surfaces had to be perfectly flat but I was using a bolted flange to press it against the housing face. So I am watching this to see how the tri clamp system works. It would certainly be simpler than all the drilling, threading and machining.

[Oldvine Zin]

That is a great link for glass. When I was tinkering with my sight glasses I found that the thinner ones were much more sensitive to any misplaced pressure, I broke a few in testing . The surfaces had to be perfectly flat but I was using a bolted flange to press it against the housing face. So I am watching this to see how the tri clamp system works. It would certainly be simpler than all the drilling, threading and machining.[/quote]

Yea I was thinking about machining a beveled holder for the glass sort of like this one with out all the tricks http://www.rubberfab.com/products/sight ... view-ports" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

[Oldvine Zin]

Picked up a SD style sight glass and some PTFE o-rings. One o-ring and a sanded flat on one side PTFE tri gasket might seal it up nicely

[bitter]

Oldvine Zin, I m leaning towards spending the few $ extra on the SD style sight glass also.

B

[heartcut]

Keep in mind you really only need a top and bottom sight glass for monitoring your run. The middle ones are just bling.

[heartcut]

+1 on the Teflon tape on the edge of the glass, did that a year ago and it's still solid.

[bitter]

Thanks for all the comments. Still working on the wife... Want to make the order but have to have the wife buy in on the purchase.

As for plate. Done a bunch of reading and not convinced one way or the other on perferated plates vs bubble caps... Main benefit of the perforated plates is they make the tails cut for you I have read but also seen people using the steamed up glass in the bottom plate as an indicator... so no big difference really...

I like the perforated plates are self draining..... but could drill a small hole for bubble cap plates to do the same thing.

I like that the bubble caps are not a power sensitive.

What is peoples opinions?

Bubble caps are hard to make than perforated plates...

I was thinking go 4 plates for now all with site glassses, then later could goto as many plates as could fit in height I have for a vodka run. For the extensions I was thinking using 4" x 4" pipe sections for the center so have 2 plates top and bottom could see.

Also thinking about a gin basket for later after have good bunch of neutral made to make some Gin but whisky is my main link.... so might even try 2-3 plate runs for a more interesting whiskey that will get some age on it. and 4 plates for something cleaner that ages faster.

B