testing, after the build

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frodo
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testing, after the build

Post by frodo »

you made it, now you need to test it for leaks.

you can fil it with water, that is messy as hell.

or you can test with air.

i made a test port, i will share ,

it is a round piece of copper with a hole drilled in it
a shrater valve from a old inner tube
round piece of innner tube
gasket

testing 001.JPG
testing 002.JPG
testing 003.JPG
testing 004.JPG
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Edwin Croissant
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Re: testing, after the build

Post by Edwin Croissant »

Never test with compressed air :shock:
If you equipment fails you might get hurt or worse!
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frodo
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Re: testing, after the build

Post by frodo »

LOL>>> I test with compressed air all the time.

what "equipment" are you referring to ?

if you are worried about injury, do not pump it up to 100 psi.

all you need is 20 psi to find a leak.
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Re: testing, after the build

Post by InglisHill »

I got a funny story about that mate, I will fill you in on the thread when I get a chance :-)
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Edwin Croissant
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Re: testing, after the build

Post by Edwin Croissant »

With "equipment" I was refering to the vessel you are going to presurise. And even 20 psi can cause considerable damage if your vessel fails. And the bigger the vessel the bigger the bang :lol:
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frodo
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Re: testing, after the build

Post by frodo »

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pfshine
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Re: testing, after the build

Post by pfshine »

I made something like that a little while back. The only difference is that mine was a brass shrater valve I had on hand, and soldered it in.
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Danespirit
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Re: testing, after the build

Post by Danespirit »

Nice frodo..just remember to be very carefull with the airpressure...don't want any accident to happen there.. :!:
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frodo
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Re: testing, after the build

Post by frodo »

I am being careful 2 things I do not want.
a fugged up thumper
and my ugly mugg any ugly er

filling with water was not gett'n it

I had about 10 leaks in them folds and crevices
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bearriver
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Re: testing, after the build

Post by bearriver »

Edwin Croissant wrote:Never test with compressed air :shock:
If you equipment fails you might get hurt or worse!
A valid concern. I wonder what PSI levels would be considered safe or unsafe to test at...
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Brutal
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Re: testing, after the build

Post by Brutal »

bearriver wrote:
Edwin Croissant wrote:Never test with compressed air :shock:
If you equipment fails you might get hurt or worse!
A valid concern. I wonder what PSI levels would be considered safe or unsafe to test at...
That's a good question. I've always been very wary of pressure because of the flammable vapor and boiling fluid inside. Doing this in a controlled environment with no flammable contents sounds oddly OK to me right now.
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frodo
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Re: testing, after the build

Post by frodo »

JUST my opinion, because of the annealing. I would not go any higher than 10-15 psi

all you want to do is find and fix leaks. 10 psi and a spray bottle of soapy water

.
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Re: testing, after the build

Post by palinkagus »

We usually test low pressure natural gas piping at 3 PSI. That's more than enough to find a leak. Pump it up, watch for 1/2 hour. If pressure holds, you're good to go. If it drops, get out your spray bottle of soapy water and soak your joints. Bubbles will indicate location of your leak(s).
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frodo
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Re: testing, after the build

Post by frodo »

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005.JPG

3 psi, sounds good to me also,

005.JPG
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skow69
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Re: testing, after the build

Post by skow69 »

LP gas lines in RVs are tested at the working pressure, 11 inches of water column. Which is probably pretty close to the pressure in a still. A manometer is easy to rig up.
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Re: testing, after the build

Post by frodo »

I am mo curiouser than a cat after a bug, i gotta know

Filled thumper till it deformed the bottom {pooched it out}

this happened around 25 psi. no worries, just hammer it back flat

NOW, I know, what I know, you know?
bulge pressure 002.JPG
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frodo
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Re: testing, after the build

Post by frodo »

skow69 wrote:LP gas lines in RVs are tested at the working pressure, 11 inches of water column. Which is probably pretty close to the pressure in a still. A manometer is easy to rig up.

we used to use mercury manometers. to test gas lines in residential houses

if you look at the top of the column, the surface tension will let you know if you have a leak or not

nice round head, no leak

concaved head, leak
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Re: testing, after the build

Post by Brutal »

frodo wrote:I am being careful 2 things I do not want.
a fugged up thumper
and my ugly mugg any ugly er
Well it's fugged up now!!
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frodo
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Re: testing, after the build

Post by frodo »

Brutal wrote:
frodo wrote:I am being careful 2 things I do not want.
a fugged up thumper
and my ugly mugg any ugly er
Well it's fugged up now!!
NAH,, hammered it flat. surprised the solder is as strong as it is,

I figured a joint would break before deforming
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Re: testing, after the build

Post by shadylane »

Frodo, you came close to a catastrophic failure. :esurprised: :esurprised: :esurprised:
I'm not bull shitting you, if you must pressure test with air use a bicycle tire pump.
It only takes 1 or 2 PSI to find a leak using soapy water.
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Re: testing, after the build

Post by pfshine »

Nah. Solder is strong as all hell. Annealed copper on the other hand is not. Not only that but the bottom of the thump at 25psi and 9.5" diameter has 70.88" squared. So that is a whopping 1772 pounds pushing on it.
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Re: testing, after the build

Post by shadylane »

Now think what would happen if the copper piece hits you or a bystander with 1772 pounds of force :cry:
Now think about the legal ramifications of causing an injury will in the commission of a felony.
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frodo
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Re: testing, after the build

Post by frodo »

shadylane wrote:Frodo, you came close to a catastrophic failure. :esurprised: :esurprised: :esurprised:
I'm not bull shitting you, if you must pressure test with air use a bicycle tire pump.
It only takes 1 or 2 PSI to find a leak using soapy water.

Shadylane, I am crazy, :crazy: not stupid. :eugeek:


my air hose has a clip on it.clip it on the tank, walk out the room. :thumbup:
set the regulator to shut off at 25 psi
their was no danger
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Re: testing, after the build

Post by pfshine »

I test piping at well above 25psi all the time for work. Should an newb that has never worked with pipe or metal do it? Probably not. Their best bet would be either very low pressure and hope for the best or fill it with water then hook it up to a hose at city or well pressure to find leaks.
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Re: testing, after the build

Post by cranky »

pfshine wrote: hook it up to a hose at city or well pressure to find leaks.
I did a quick search on city water PSI and found where San Diago's municipal code requires unregulated water to be less than 80 PSI. Des Moines Iowa can be as high as 100 PSI. Which means it is entirely possible to have up 100 PSI water pressure so maybe low pressure air is the way to go. Not saying all city water is 80 PSI but I know my own city water is between 80 and 90 PSI.
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Re: testing, after the build

Post by pfshine »

I'm just saying with hydro testing highish pressure isn't bad. Your sink isn't exploding everyday at 80 psi neither is your water heater with flame on it besides your residence should have a prv to regulate to 40-60psi. Water being nearly incompressible does not store energy the way air or gas does. Now, I know most people don't have a spare hydrostatic pump laying around that is why I suggested a hose. We do it all the time here on the site, think leibig. Say you pump a compressor up to 60psi and and a small tank say a water heater to the same with no air in it. You open the quick valve on the compressor and you will be blowing air for a long time. Now do the same with water and you might get an ounce out of it depending on the tanks elasticity.
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Re: testing, after the build

Post by frodo »

look guys, testing with air is nothing new to plumbers and pipe fitters
100psi is typical testing pressure. we do it day in and day out.

most engineers spec out 100 --150 psi air test for a 24 hour duration with zero drop in pressure
and as pfshine mentioned hydrostatic is also used.

the reason we test with air is simple, we are looking for leaks.
and you cant flood a new building testing. would not be a good move.
test with air, make sure your system is tite.
then fill with water.turn on pumps and circ the system

I have no reservations testing a thumper with air what so ever
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