testing, after the build
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- frodo
- Distiller
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testing, after the build
you made it, now you need to test it for leaks.
you can fil it with water, that is messy as hell.
or you can test with air.
i made a test port, i will share ,
it is a round piece of copper with a hole drilled in it
a shrater valve from a old inner tube
round piece of innner tube
gasket
you can fil it with water, that is messy as hell.
or you can test with air.
i made a test port, i will share ,
it is a round piece of copper with a hole drilled in it
a shrater valve from a old inner tube
round piece of innner tube
gasket
- Edwin Croissant
- Swill Maker
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Re: testing, after the build
Never test with compressed air
If you equipment fails you might get hurt or worse!
If you equipment fails you might get hurt or worse!
"In all affairs, it’s a healthy thing now and then to hang a question mark on the things you have long taken for granted.”
Bertrand Russell
Bertrand Russell
- frodo
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Re: testing, after the build
LOL>>> I test with compressed air all the time.
what "equipment" are you referring to ?
if you are worried about injury, do not pump it up to 100 psi.
all you need is 20 psi to find a leak.
what "equipment" are you referring to ?
if you are worried about injury, do not pump it up to 100 psi.
all you need is 20 psi to find a leak.
-
- Rumrunner
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Re: testing, after the build
I got a funny story about that mate, I will fill you in on the thread when I get a chance
- Edwin Croissant
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Re: testing, after the build
With "equipment" I was refering to the vessel you are going to presurise. And even 20 psi can cause considerable damage if your vessel fails. And the bigger the vessel the bigger the bang
"In all affairs, it’s a healthy thing now and then to hang a question mark on the things you have long taken for granted.”
Bertrand Russell
Bertrand Russell
Re: testing, after the build
I made something like that a little while back. The only difference is that mine was a brass shrater valve I had on hand, and soldered it in.
Life is a journey you take alone. Make sure you do what you what makes you happy
- Danespirit
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Re: testing, after the build
Nice frodo..just remember to be very carefull with the airpressure...don't want any accident to happen there..
- frodo
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Re: testing, after the build
I am being careful 2 things I do not want.
a fugged up thumper
and my ugly mugg any ugly er
filling with water was not gett'n it
I had about 10 leaks in them folds and crevices
a fugged up thumper
and my ugly mugg any ugly er
filling with water was not gett'n it
I had about 10 leaks in them folds and crevices
Re: testing, after the build
A valid concern. I wonder what PSI levels would be considered safe or unsafe to test at...Edwin Croissant wrote:Never test with compressed air
If you equipment fails you might get hurt or worse!
Re: testing, after the build
That's a good question. I've always been very wary of pressure because of the flammable vapor and boiling fluid inside. Doing this in a controlled environment with no flammable contents sounds oddly OK to me right now.bearriver wrote:A valid concern. I wonder what PSI levels would be considered safe or unsafe to test at...Edwin Croissant wrote:Never test with compressed air
If you equipment fails you might get hurt or worse!
Steam injection rig http://tinyurl.com/kxmz8hy
All grain corn mash with steam injection and enzymes http://tinyurl.com/mp6zdt5
Inner tube condenser http://tinyurl.com/zkp3ps6
All grain corn mash with steam injection and enzymes http://tinyurl.com/mp6zdt5
Inner tube condenser http://tinyurl.com/zkp3ps6
- frodo
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Re: testing, after the build
JUST my opinion, because of the annealing. I would not go any higher than 10-15 psi
all you want to do is find and fix leaks. 10 psi and a spray bottle of soapy water
.
all you want to do is find and fix leaks. 10 psi and a spray bottle of soapy water
.
-
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Re: testing, after the build
We usually test low pressure natural gas piping at 3 PSI. That's more than enough to find a leak. Pump it up, watch for 1/2 hour. If pressure holds, you're good to go. If it drops, get out your spray bottle of soapy water and soak your joints. Bubbles will indicate location of your leak(s).
- frodo
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Re: testing, after the build
3 psi, sounds good to me also,
Re: testing, after the build
LP gas lines in RVs are tested at the working pressure, 11 inches of water column. Which is probably pretty close to the pressure in a still. A manometer is easy to rig up.
Distilling at 110f and 75 torr.
I'm not an absinthe snob, I'm The Absinthe Nazi. "NO ABSINTHE FOR YOU!"
I'm not an absinthe snob, I'm The Absinthe Nazi. "NO ABSINTHE FOR YOU!"
- frodo
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Re: testing, after the build
I am mo curiouser than a cat after a bug, i gotta know
Filled thumper till it deformed the bottom {pooched it out}
this happened around 25 psi. no worries, just hammer it back flat
NOW, I know, what I know, you know?
Filled thumper till it deformed the bottom {pooched it out}
this happened around 25 psi. no worries, just hammer it back flat
NOW, I know, what I know, you know?
- frodo
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Re: testing, after the build
skow69 wrote:LP gas lines in RVs are tested at the working pressure, 11 inches of water column. Which is probably pretty close to the pressure in a still. A manometer is easy to rig up.
we used to use mercury manometers. to test gas lines in residential houses
if you look at the top of the column, the surface tension will let you know if you have a leak or not
nice round head, no leak
concaved head, leak
Re: testing, after the build
Well it's fugged up now!!frodo wrote:I am being careful 2 things I do not want.
a fugged up thumper
and my ugly mugg any ugly er
Steam injection rig http://tinyurl.com/kxmz8hy
All grain corn mash with steam injection and enzymes http://tinyurl.com/mp6zdt5
Inner tube condenser http://tinyurl.com/zkp3ps6
All grain corn mash with steam injection and enzymes http://tinyurl.com/mp6zdt5
Inner tube condenser http://tinyurl.com/zkp3ps6
- frodo
- Distiller
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- Joined: Sat Dec 07, 2013 11:55 pm
- Location: hiding behind a pine tree. bout 100 miles east of new orleans
Re: testing, after the build
NAH,, hammered it flat. surprised the solder is as strong as it is,Brutal wrote:Well it's fugged up now!!frodo wrote:I am being careful 2 things I do not want.
a fugged up thumper
and my ugly mugg any ugly er
I figured a joint would break before deforming
- shadylane
- Master of Distillation
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Re: testing, after the build
Frodo, you came close to a catastrophic failure.
I'm not bull shitting you, if you must pressure test with air use a bicycle tire pump.
It only takes 1 or 2 PSI to find a leak using soapy water.
I'm not bull shitting you, if you must pressure test with air use a bicycle tire pump.
It only takes 1 or 2 PSI to find a leak using soapy water.
Re: testing, after the build
Nah. Solder is strong as all hell. Annealed copper on the other hand is not. Not only that but the bottom of the thump at 25psi and 9.5" diameter has 70.88" squared. So that is a whopping 1772 pounds pushing on it.
Life is a journey you take alone. Make sure you do what you what makes you happy
- shadylane
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Re: testing, after the build
Now think what would happen if the copper piece hits you or a bystander with 1772 pounds of force
Now think about the legal ramifications of causing an injury will in the commission of a felony.
Now think about the legal ramifications of causing an injury will in the commission of a felony.
- frodo
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Re: testing, after the build
shadylane wrote:Frodo, you came close to a catastrophic failure.
I'm not bull shitting you, if you must pressure test with air use a bicycle tire pump.
It only takes 1 or 2 PSI to find a leak using soapy water.
Shadylane, I am crazy, not stupid.
my air hose has a clip on it.clip it on the tank, walk out the room.
set the regulator to shut off at 25 psi
their was no danger
Re: testing, after the build
I test piping at well above 25psi all the time for work. Should an newb that has never worked with pipe or metal do it? Probably not. Their best bet would be either very low pressure and hope for the best or fill it with water then hook it up to a hose at city or well pressure to find leaks.
Life is a journey you take alone. Make sure you do what you what makes you happy
- cranky
- Master of Distillation
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Re: testing, after the build
I did a quick search on city water PSI and found where San Diago's municipal code requires unregulated water to be less than 80 PSI. Des Moines Iowa can be as high as 100 PSI. Which means it is entirely possible to have up 100 PSI water pressure so maybe low pressure air is the way to go. Not saying all city water is 80 PSI but I know my own city water is between 80 and 90 PSI.pfshine wrote: hook it up to a hose at city or well pressure to find leaks.
Re: testing, after the build
I'm just saying with hydro testing highish pressure isn't bad. Your sink isn't exploding everyday at 80 psi neither is your water heater with flame on it besides your residence should have a prv to regulate to 40-60psi. Water being nearly incompressible does not store energy the way air or gas does. Now, I know most people don't have a spare hydrostatic pump laying around that is why I suggested a hose. We do it all the time here on the site, think leibig. Say you pump a compressor up to 60psi and and a small tank say a water heater to the same with no air in it. You open the quick valve on the compressor and you will be blowing air for a long time. Now do the same with water and you might get an ounce out of it depending on the tanks elasticity.
Life is a journey you take alone. Make sure you do what you what makes you happy
- frodo
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Re: testing, after the build
look guys, testing with air is nothing new to plumbers and pipe fitters
100psi is typical testing pressure. we do it day in and day out.
most engineers spec out 100 --150 psi air test for a 24 hour duration with zero drop in pressure
and as pfshine mentioned hydrostatic is also used.
the reason we test with air is simple, we are looking for leaks.
and you cant flood a new building testing. would not be a good move.
test with air, make sure your system is tite.
then fill with water.turn on pumps and circ the system
I have no reservations testing a thumper with air what so ever
100psi is typical testing pressure. we do it day in and day out.
most engineers spec out 100 --150 psi air test for a 24 hour duration with zero drop in pressure
and as pfshine mentioned hydrostatic is also used.
the reason we test with air is simple, we are looking for leaks.
and you cant flood a new building testing. would not be a good move.
test with air, make sure your system is tite.
then fill with water.turn on pumps and circ the system
I have no reservations testing a thumper with air what so ever