Flux and Solder Question

[tzzler44]

I've already done a couple joints so this might be a day late and dollar short, but I want to be sure I"m being safe:

Does it matter what solder or flux I use so long as both are leaf free? For example, some flux specifies that it's water soluble.... and as luck would have it that's not the flux I used. I used the flux that came with the bernzomatic plumbing torch kit because it's what I had laying around.

Am I good to go or am I gonna end up poisoning myself?

[MichiganCornhusker]

You want water soluble flux.
Even lead free flux contains nasty chemicals that need to be cleaned away.
Switch to the water soluable now and physically clean the joints you have already done if you can reach them with a brush or rag.

The pasty stuff is just much more difficult to wash out with cleaning runs.

[tzzler44]

Alright, I'll do the rest with water soluble. Would the vinegar cleaning run and sacrificial alcohol run take care of the nasties that might be present? I'll get to what i can with a rag and some dawn.

[rad14701]

Alright, I'll do the rest with water soluble. Would the vinegar cleaning run and sacrificial alcohol run take care of the nasties that might be present? I'll get to what i can with a rag and some dawn.

It may take several cleaning runs to remove non-water based flux... Regardless of what you use, it ain't clean until it's clean... Several members have had to do two or three cleaning run sequences to get out stubborn contamination that ended up tainting spirits, rendering them undrinkable...

[jedneck]

It may take several cleaning runs to remove non-water based flux... Regardless of what you use, it ain't clean until it's clean... Several members have had to do two or three cleaning run sequences to get out stubborn contamination that ended up tainting spirits, rendering them undrinkable...

that be me. if i remember right it was 4 each.
dont waste your time with paste

[HDNB]

It may take several cleaning runs to remove non-water based flux... Regardless of what you use, it ain't clean until it's clean... Several members have had to do two or three cleaning run sequences to get out stubborn contamination that ended up tainting spirits, rendering them undrinkable...

that be me. if i remember right it was 4 each.
dont waste your time with paste

i stepped in that pile of poo too. (that was after much steaming, water an vinegar and gallons of distilate collected...it still had flux) what worked for me was a 14 hour soak in 7%pickling vinegar, undiluted...then another steam, water and vinegar and (yet) another sac.

[tzzler44]

How does one know for sure when it's clean?

I only used the non water soluble Flux on the bottom of the column and where the coil goes though the cap. I can soak those in vinegar.

[jb-texshine]

How do you know that a dish is clean... visually if you can see to inspect.
Otherwise, steam, vinegar and water,then alcohol until the sacrificial alcohol is clear. Clean is clean.

[Hound Dog]

You may want to use a little acetone and a long handled brush to get to areas with the regular flux. Get everything you can phisically clean before doing the sacraficial runs for cleaning.

[tzzler44]

Just started 15 gallons of sugar wash fermenting, I'll let it ferment out then clear up for the sacrificial run. In the meantime I still need to build the liebeg condensor and add that and a needle valve to the boka.


I'm thinking i'll go with this for the valve https://www.amazon.com/Trerice-735-2-Ne ... edle+valve" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

[Hound Dog]

Look on line for copper mesh instead of scrubbies. It is usually sold as a pest control barrier. Snails won't cross it for some reason.

Also your valve is chrome plated brass. Look on ebay and find a stainless one for 20 bucks or just get a lead free brass one from Home Depot if you don't worry about the brass thing. Getting my flame suit on now.

[tzzler44]

Damn Hound Dog, you replied before my edits took place haha. I'm going with Mesh instead of scrubbies. Does the valve HAVE to be a needle valve or would a small ball valve be ok? Apparently the needle valve is better for precise adjustments?

***EDIT**** I'll just go with this valve, look ok? http://www.ebay.com/itm/CARBON-STEEL-NE ... OSwwE5WVf6~" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

[Hound Dog]

Gotta be quick! That valve is steel and will rust. Type stainless steel needle valve in at eBay and you will get a bunch. Or use a lead free brass valve, it will work better than chrome or carbon steel.

[Deerhunter]

If its not to late I would change your take off tube to 3/8" instead of 1/4". Also would go with a 3/8" Stainless Steel needle valve with PTFE packing/seat. Your link on ebay shows a carbon steel valve.

[Hound Dog]

If its not to late I would change your take off tube to 3/8" instead of 1/4". Also would go with a 3/8" Stainless Steel needle valve with PTFE packing/seat. Your link on ebay shows a carbon steel valve.

+1 on the 3/8".

[tzzler44]

Ah, good look on the carbon steel. Why the 3/8" tubing? I've already soldered on a 1/4" take off tube, but I suppose I could replace it if 1/4 will give me flow issues

[Deerhunter]

Depending on your column Dia. (assuming your going with 2") 3/8" would be a plus. Especially when doing stripping runs, and running in pot still mode. As far as solder go with Harris Stay-Brite 8 and there liquid flux Stay Clean.

[tzzler44]

Affirmative on the 2" column. I messaged you back, deerhunter