Ammo reloading

[T-Pee]

Since there's been a pistol thread, a rifle thread, a bow hunting thread and even an airgun thread (I think), seems to me that we should have a place to discuss my favorite part of the shooting sports and that's reloading ammunition. You can do it cuz yer cheap, cuz yer a prepper, cuz you enjoy it or cuz you want control over what you feed your guns or all the above.
Share recipes, techniques, opinions, facts or anything else related to this aspect of the shooting sports.

I'll start the bar high (imho) by showing a pic of my reloading bench where it all happens.

tp

[corene1]

I have to agree with you on reasons why to reload but, I don't know if cheap qualifies. Just bought a box of the new lead free bullets at the local gun shop to try. $67 dollars a 100 for the .25 cal 117 grain boat tails. Makes me want to be an outlaw and shoot my old lead bullets. Wait! I am an outlaw already! . I like to reload just because I am maybe a little OCD and I like accuracy above all and it is relaxing. Current load. Matched Winchester cases trim to 2.490 neck turned and primer pockets squared with flash hole sized and deburred. 50.7 grains of IMR 4831 with federal match primers. Nosler 110 grain accubond bullet set at.012 off the rifling at 3120 FPS. Shoots consistent 1/2 minuet of angle groups or better under 200 meters. Longer distances it opens up a bit but I think that is the shooter. My most impressive group so far is 2.70 inches at 400 meters. Really want to get new glass but don't have the extra money to upgrade right now. Happy shooting!

[robb]

Yes T-Pee, the bar is high. Impressed and feel inadequate. But am glad you started this thread as I am in need of some quality advice. I have a M&P AR15 .223/556. Been playing with military ammo just funnin'. OK with Golf at 50 yds, plinking. But will want to do some coyote reloads and would like some suggestions on starting powders, grains,; bullets, weights etc. Probably 100-150 yds. Thanks
Corene1 LOL, I agree, when I was even poorer I started reloading to save money, found I didn't save but I sure got to shoot a lot more!

[corene1]

Yes T-Pee, the bar is high. Impressed and feel inadequate. But am glad you started this thread as I am in need of some quality advice. I have a M&P AR15 .223/556. Been playing with military ammo just funnin'. OK with Golf at 50 yds, plinking. But will want to do some coyote reloads and would like some suggestions on starting powders, grains,; bullets, weights etc. Probably 100-150 yds. Thanks
Corene1 LOL, I agree, when I was even poorer I started reloading to save money, found I didn't save but I sure got to shoot a lot more!

Not really up on those weapons but have a friend that I talk with a lot. First for accuracy , what is the twist rate in your barrel? When the original M16 first came out they used a slower twist 1-14 or 1-16 I think ,for accuracy , but found that the more stable bullet only poked holes in the body so they went to a faster twist 1-9 some as fast as 1-7 . the bullet was still accurate enough but was on the high side of unstable so when it made contact it would tumble and do more tissue damage. In my tinkering with my 22-250 I have found that a slower twist likes a lighter bullet and a fast twist likes a heavier bullet. Expansion of the bullet is not a problem since we don't have to adhere to the regulations of war that disallow the use of fragmenting bullets. I used to shoot 52 grain Hornady SX ( super explosive) for small varmints at 3750 FPS with IMR 4320 and their 60 grain round nose for larger game with the velocity slowed down to around 3400 FPS with IMR 4064. The 1-14 barrel kept both bullets stable. It seem a little less speed will help a heavier bullet in a slow twist barrel. You also need to check the bore on your rifle as .22 caliber bullets come in diameters from .222 to .227. Also Is it chambered for .223 or 556 Nato there is a slight difference in the 2 chambers. To my under standin you can run a .223 round through a 556 chamber safely but a 556 round into a .223 chamber can cause interference problems. I believe the 556 chamber has a bit more freebore before the bullet contacts the rifling. While a 556 round into the .223 chamber can actually cause the bullet to contact the refiling when chambered causing a big pressure spike. Just some stuff to think about.

[robb]

16" barrel, 1:9 twist and 5.56 chamber. You are correct on the chambers. I don't have high expectations. Nor ability. Seems coyote hunters like in the 60 grn range. And I do like ballistic tip or hollow point. I was actually surprised at 3/4" groups with military ammo. It is kind of a funky weapon for someone that likes fine machined steel and walnut. My TIKKA .243 shoots one hole groups if I don't get in the way.

[T-Pee]

robb:

Right now my plinking load for the AR is 25 grains of IMR 4895 seated .0030" off the rifling. Simple Hornady 55 grain FMJ boattails. Fun, cheap and reasonably accurate.
Once I burn this 8# keg I'm going back to using Alliant Varmint. Meters a LOT better through the Dillon 550.
I normally know better than to run stick powders through a progressive and I got the IMR4895 with the intent of using it in the .30-'06 but I get better velocities at lower pressures with Hogden H414. I have a keg of that too.

tp

[jedneck]

I also reload. When I buy a rifle I get dies for it at the same time. Currently load for
7mm-08
8x57 Mauser
223
44mag
38spl
And have dies for more.
Corene what glass are you wantin.?

[corene1]

I also reload. When I buy a rifle I get dies for it at the same time. Currently load for
7mm-08
8x57 Mauser
223
44mag
38spl
And have dies for more.
Corene what glass are you wantin.?

I am saving for a Leopold FX-3 12x40 with the adjustable objective target model with a Long range duplex reticle in matte finish. I have always shot fixed power scopes. The sight picture never changes. Only problem is I keep buying more archery stuff. Just found a pristine 1997 Hoyt Avalon plus that a guy had in storage in a box. Never been shot no scratches or wear marks. Best recurve riser Hoyt ever made. Guess what I am shooting tomorrow at the range.

[T-Pee]

Addict. Do they have a 12 Step program for archers?

The answer is NO. They don't WANT to recurve...uhhh...recover.

tp

[corene1]

Addict. Do they have a 12 Step program for archers?

The answer is NO. They don't WANT to recurve...uhhh...recover.

tp

But it is sooooo pretty!

[Appalachia-Shiner]

T-pee, your reloading bunker is much neater than mine.
While we are discussing AR-15 ammo, I will give my favorite go to load for ARs.
25g of H-335 under either a 50 or 55 g V Max. This load always runs well. It meters extremely well in a powder drop, usually within a tenth of a grain with a HARRELS drop. ..you can get it hotter, but you may have extraction issues due to neck expansion. Loading for ARs necessitates case trimming due to the large chambers typically found on most ARs. The cases grow each time and you can get only about 3 firings without trimming....and I hate trimming Brass.
I load several other calibers also and my favorite Varmint round is the .204 Ruger.

[T-Pee]

If you use the brass in the same gun that fired it you can simply neck-size negating trimming due to stretching, no? Or doesn't that work with semi-autos?
The AR15 is my first semi so I don't know. Usually shoot a bolt or lever action.
I know it works in my -'06 like that.

tp

[contrahead]

I'll start the bar high (imho) by showing a pic of my reloading bench where it all happens.

Nice setup, looks like ample space. I had a dedicated reloading room a few years back but lost it to domestic sprawl & family growth. The essential equipment like powders, bullets, primers and dies, is tucked away in metal boxes. Cardboard boxes hold bags of tumbling and polishing media, bags of shotgun hulls, new shotgun wads, lead shot, bags of empty rifle and pistol brass, bullet molds, lead melting pots, swages, etc. It’s been a few years since I’ve done any reloading, but I stocked my ammo supply up pretty well back then when I did. I recently acquired a nice “Israeli Mauser” so I anticipate buying .308 dies soon.

In addressing “robb’s” coyote reload question, I have a little free advice. Get a good reloading manual if you don’t already have one. Two or three manuals would be even better. I like Hornady, Lyman and Speer manuals (although my copies are somewhat dated). The Lyman manual for instance offers much cast bullet data that the others don’t have, but it also offers pressure data for most of its ‘jacketed’ loads – a feature that other reloading manuals do not offer either.

Hogden’s H380 powder is a ball powder that flows easily and consistently through the powder measure. When reloading for my 22-250 I remember selecting that powder based on collected datum from 3 or 4 manuals. That powder seemed to drive my choice of bullet at a desirably high velocity by creating a low chamber pressure at the same time. I am not saying that this is the best powder for your 223; just suggesting you do your research first.

[Hank Reardon]

Yes T-Pee, the bar is high. Impressed and feel inadequate. But am glad you started this thread as I am in need of some quality advice. I have a M&P AR15 .223/556. Been playing with military ammo just funnin'. OK with Golf at 50 yds, plinking. But will want to do some coyote reloads and would like some suggestions on starting powders, grains,; bullets, weights etc. Probably 100-150 yds. Thanks
Corene1 LOL, I agree, when I was even poorer I started reloading to save money, found I didn't save but I sure got to shoot a lot more!

Take a look @ Hodgdon Varget, and you will be able to build a very accurate load for your scavenging friends. Good luck hunting those mangy beasts.

[Hank Reardon]

I'll start the bar high (imho) by showing a pic of my reloading bench where it all happens.

tp

The Benchr.jpg

Mr. Mike Dillon would be proud.

Well done.

[rubber duck]

I know nothing about reloading but it kinda seams like distilling.... you need to read a lot or you blow your face off.

Where is a good forum to start with reloading?

[GrassHopper]

I'm with Duck. I don't know crap about reloading and I'm too old to start a new intense hobby. I was at a yard sale yesterday, and some guy bought a bunch of reloads. That would scare the s**t out of me buying reloads from someone I don't know. I would buy a still for the right price, but not reloads. I only trust my grandson to load my AR 15's.

I spent a lifetime learning the skill of archery, but it won't cut it when the s**t hits the fan. I've got a lot of respect for those of you that have learned the craft of reloading.

[jedneck]

If I buy somebody else's reloads it it for the components. The powder gets dumped and burnt. There is very few people that I would trust reloads from.

[T-Pee]

Here's some good links for getting started:
https://www.gunsamerica.com/blog/how-to ... mmunition/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
http://handloads.com/articles/default.asp?id=33" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
http://www.ammoland.com/2012/09/how-to- ... z484tf6JUO" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

There are plenty of reloading forums to find too.

If you live anywhere near Gardnerville, NV one of my old school chums owns an ammo store called Bear Bullets where you can get training on any press that been built and components at a good price.
Contrahead is right. Get a bunch of reloading manuals and all the compiled data you can. I take an average of all that and start low/middle of the road when working a new load. The information is out there all over the internet too. You can hit all the powder manufacturers sites and there's good info on their specific lines.

To be honest, the act of reloading is actually very simple and straightforward with just a few basic steps. Like anything else, it's the details that'll getcha. If you have a handle on distilling, you can reload. Learning is easy. Mastering takes years but we can help. Hence the purpose of this thread.

tp

[FullySilenced]

Reloading is really easy clean, inspect, size, inspect, weigh and measure each load... inspect... been doing it since i was 15... started with 30-06... prolly 20+ die sets and a shotshell loader in 12 ga.

if you have nothing else a Lee Loader for your calibers ... bullets and powder on hand and you will be at least shooting with something...

save your brass and save the world...if need be

happy stillin and loading

FS

[T-Pee]

They don't call it "reloader's gold" for nuthin'.
Those ammo boxes on the bottom shelf of my bench are literally FULL of .223, 9mm, .38sp, .44mag, .45acp and assorted rifle cases.
I'm rich.

tp

[T-Pee]

Okay. Now that I have your attention to this thread, I want to share one of those truly omg moments in reloading I recently discovered.

Have you always wanted to be able to know exactly how long a cartridge needs to be with regards to just where the bullet seats in the case to the rifling in a given barrel but don't want to invest the considerable $$$ in a Stony Point cartridge gauge and the adapters for every one of your gun chambers? This is one of the greatest and cheapest tips that I've gotten in reloading. You'll have to sacrifice one case for each caliber but it'll be worth it. I promise. You can do this.

Take a deprimed case and cut four slices in the case mouth using a Dremel and a thin cutting disk. If you don't have a Dremel, get one. It works out to the same price as one Stony Point gauge and adapter. Here's my .223 and 30-06 cases:

Now, squeeze the case neck segments gently so that there will be sufficient tension on the bullet when it is inserted in the case mouth. Insert a bullet of your choice so that the bullet is just held by the case mouth with the base of the bullet visible through the neck cuts thusly:

Chamber the round and ease the action closed. Gently open the action and carefully remove the now-seated round. The bullet won't stick in the barrel because the bullet hasn't been sufficiently engraved into the rifling and the neck tension is stronger that what little pressure the chambering placed on the bullet. You can now take that round, measure it with your micrometer and you will now know exactly how long that round is to the rifling. To shorten to the length you want, just leave the round in the micrometer and shorten until the mike reads the proper length and you're done. You've now turned a spare case into a valuable tool for almost free!

Remember, every type of bullet has a different ogive characteristics. You need to repeat this to get each bullet/chamber leade combo just right.

For my '06, Barnes recommends seating .050" back from the rifling.
For everything else, I shorten .020" just because that's where I've found good accuracy across the board.
I'm not exacting as far as cartridge length goes. I leave that for long distance and bench rest guys. If I can get 1.5 moa accuracy at a given distance, I'm happy.

tp

[contrahead]

Okay. Now that I have your attention to this thread, I want to share one of those truly omg moments in reloading I recently discovered.

Have you never smoked your bullets?

Over the years I've picked up my reloading skills from several old timers so these tricks don't belong to me. One old timer in particular taught me one day how to seat a bullet right up there practically touching the lands. This method is easy and doesn’t cost $36.00.

Assuming the bullet seating die is set to the length of a standard factory cartridge, one begins by advancing the length of the die and testing with a clean hull and new bullet until that bullet contacts the rifling lands. If the bullet is shinny and new then it can be held over a burning cigarette or candle flame until it tarnishes. When the lands contact the end of the olgive you’ll see some tiny little bright scratches around the bullet. Re-smoke that bullet or use another to back the adjustment off of any contact – but just barely. I usually use an empty case for this operation, and have a bullet puller handy. A magnifying glass might be handy too.

[T-Pee]

A bullet puller is a must ojn any reloading bench anyway.

I'd heard the smoked bullet method quite a while ago but haven't thought about it until now. My eyes aren't up to seeing scratches.

tp

[cob]

I know nothing about reloading but it kinda seams like distilling.... you need to read a lot or you blow your face off.

Where is a good forum to start with reloading?

it depends what you want to reload.

I read at http://www.castboolits.gunloads.com/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow . I'm not a member.

I load for everything I own, have for 42+ years.

for the most recent project I made an expander die for 303 brit to size the brass up to fit a .410 shotgun.

"brass" brass for the .410, loadable in any rifle press, and no 209 primers.

some of my reloading is as simple as pouring powder down the barrel, sliding a patched ball down after it

and priming the pan or capping the nipple.

[Jhawker56]

Do any of you mess with anything as small as 38 or 357 in the mag or the Sig??? I've been hooked on them for a longtime..

[T-Pee]

Do any of you mess with anything as small as 38 or 357 in the mag or the Sig??? I've been hooked on them for a longtime..

I load lotsa .38sp for my S&W M14. Useta load a lot of .357mag. Tried to blow up a nice 6" SS S&W M686 once with an accidental 2x charge.

.357mag Crowd Pleaser = 13.7 grains of Blue Dot under a 125 grain JHP with most of the cannelure showing and a medium crimp.
Bring it out around dusk with a 4" or 6" barrel revolver.
Loaded some for a Fed cop that had a .357mag Desert Eagle. Bet me $5 it wouldn't cycle the gun. It did. Vigorously.

Got a question? Fire away.

tp

[contrahead]

Do any of you mess with anything as small as 38 or 357 in the mag or the Sig??? I've been hooked on them for a longtime..

I've had a S&W mod 66 for many years and it goes with me on every camping trip. Two years ago up near Owl Creek, Colorado I almost used it on a bear that persisted in invading our site in the middle of the night. That revolver travels with me more frequently and gets used more often than any of my other revolvers or pistols. I've loaded about six types of powder with about a dozen different types of bullets for that pistol. Also have 3 different bullet molds that fit that caliber. Use birdshot for the occasional grouse that scares up. I buy my birdshot rounds but could easily make my own with .357 gas checks if I had any. Pretty much plink only with moderate .38 special rounds or mild .357 rounds; don’t use the hot magnum loads that frequently.

* Had to send my Berretta 9mm back to the factory to get it fixed – after sending some experimental, heavy 158 grain semi wadcutter loads through it. From now on those wadcutters only get used in the S&W.

[T-Pee]

[Had to send my Berretta 9mm back to the factory to get it fixed – after sending some experimental, heavy 158 grain semi wadcutter loads through it. From now on those wadcutters only get used in the S&W.

Didja resize 'em first? If not, I imagine the recoil got your attention seein's how 147 grains is considered a heavy bullet in 9mm.

tp

[T-Pee]

Found a comprehensive source for load data on The Firing Line forums: https://thefiringline.com/forums/showth ... p?t=435562" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

tp