220v dryer outlet for running the element.

Post by **Cashjon** » Sat Apr 16, 2016 12:19 pm

Would a dryer outlet that is run a 240v 45-5500w element? Was thinking on just using dryer plugs on the controller box instead of installing another breaker and wire-plug etc. I was confused about the 110v vs 120v and the 220v vs 240v but online articles I read say they are the same. Thanks in advance

Post by **UnSub** » Sat Apr 16, 2016 12:46 pm

That depends on how your controller is wired. I use a 4 wire 220 system for my controller and my dryer is a 3 wire 220 line. I'm sure someone will correct me (because I'm NOT an electrician) but I believe you also need to have a breaker that is rated for the appropriate load and not extraordinary over rated. A 5500w element draws (I believe) about 23 amps depending on the length (and gauge) of wire. Mine is on a double 20amp and have not had any issue but have yet to run it for an extended period (over an hour).

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Post by **pfshine** » Sat Apr 16, 2016 12:47 pm

Yes they are perfect for this.

Post by **Cashjon** » Sat Apr 16, 2016 5:03 pm

UnSub wrote:That depends on how your controller is wired. I use a 4 wire 220 system for my controller and my dryer is a 3 wire 220 line. I'm sure someone will correct me (because I'm NOT an electrician) but I believe you also need to have a breaker that is rated for the appropriate load and not extraordinary over rated. A 5500w element draws (I believe) about 23 amps depending on the length (and gauge) of wire. Mine is on a double 20amp and have not had any issue but have yet to run it for an extended period (over an hour).
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Ya I might have to rethink this, My cords are 3 wire 10ga 2 hots and a ground. But I'm sure that can just be changed out completely to a new 4 wire dryer cord which is on the wall. I believe 4 wire is 2 hots 1 neutral and 1 ground. The L shape is Neutral, 2 sides are hot1 and 2 and bottom D shape is ground. Should be no problem I guess, will make sure it is rated high enough thou. Thanks because I never even thought of 3-4 wire plugs. I was thinking on changing end of cord but the whole cord has to be rerun off box. Thanks very much.

Post by **pfshine** » Sat Apr 16, 2016 5:38 pm

Two hots work just fine.

ShineRunner · Post by **ShineRunner** » Sat Apr 16, 2016 6:18 pm

Works just fine. I run a 5500 ULWD element from my dryer outlet to my brewing setup. It's a 3 wire outlet. I have 3 wires running to a gfci spa panel. I think a GFCI is important since it's actually meant to save you- not your equipment. From there, it's split to 4 wire for the control panel.

It works really well. I can try to find a wiring diagram of how it's set up if you want.

Post by **skow69** » Sat Apr 16, 2016 8:21 pm

ShineRunner's wiring is technically illegal (although it should work properly) because he is using the equipment ground to carry current. Your situation would be much simpler. You would only need to run a 4 wire cable IF you need 120v for something in your controller. The heating element is 240 only, so you could use the 3 wire cord you already have and put a 4 prong plug on it. Just leave the neutral open.

ShineRunner · Post by **ShineRunner** » Sat Apr 16, 2016 9:19 pm

I don't want to derail the thread, but I want to clarify that the only thing that is illegal about my setup is that the ground wire and neutral are connected in the spa panel. And it's only technically against code if it's hard wired, which it is not.

So, in the main breaker box, the neutral wire connects to the ground on the same bus terminal. Then that same neutral wire runs out to my spa panel, where it becomes a separate ground and neutral wire. Yes, that's really only necessary for an "unnecessary" GFCI panel. But, I would much rather have an "illegal" GFCI in the circuit that will actually protect me. A regular breaker will likely stop a shock, but probably only after it's too late.

Yes, you can just run the 3 wire from the dryer outlet, and no you don't need a GFCI panel in there. But, it makes it much safer for a hobby where I find myself regularly standing in water. Frankly, as big as we are on safety with everything else, I'm surprised it's not more strongly recommended around here.

Off my soapbox now.

Post by **skow69** » Sun Apr 17, 2016 12:35 am

ShineRunner wrote: the only thing that is illegal about my setup is that the ground wire and neutral are connected in the spa panel.

Correct. Neutral is grounded at the generator, the transformer, the pole outside your house, and the service entrance, but never after the load center.

Not trying to be a jerk, but if we are publishing wiring that violates code, it's only fair that we be clear about it.

Post by **bitter** » Sun Apr 17, 2016 4:16 am

If you are using the 2 hots and the ground, not any different than running l6-30's Thats all they are. I know first had finally got my setup running and used l6-30 for the plugs.

B

ShineRunner · Post by **ShineRunner** » Sun Apr 17, 2016 7:54 am

skow69 wrote:
Not trying to be a jerk, but if we are publishing wiring that violates code, it's only fair that we be clear about it.

Agreed. I should have clarified that. I was planning to do so when/if the wiring diagram was requested.

ddizzle22 · Post by **ddizzle22** » Sun Jul 24, 2016 7:32 pm

I plan on doing the same and setting up a controller for my keg next to the dryer. I'm not to sure how the gfci works with a 240v hook up? Can anyone touch on this and if it is actually needed.

aircarbonarc · Post by **aircarbonarc** » Fri Feb 03, 2017 9:40 am

I had issues with running my setup on the dryer plug, it seemed to burn out my potentialomiter and SSR. The oven plug works better.

Post by **skow69** » Fri Feb 03, 2017 8:52 pm

ddizzle22 wrote:I plan on doing the same and setting up a controller for my keg next to the dryer. I'm not to sure how the gfci works with a 240v hook up? Can anyone touch on this and if it is actually needed.

Yes it is. GFCI is required for wet locations. They make 240 v GFCI ckt bkrs, but they are pretty spendy. Then again, so are spa packs.

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