No pic's.....just a buch of tapa-frickin-talk.piperdave wrote:...Here's some more pic's...
Resize and post on the site, or don't promise pic's.
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No pic's.....just a buch of tapa-frickin-talk.piperdave wrote:...Here's some more pic's...
I would strongly advise NOT to use this method...!craftsman wrote:Piper, I did some testing with a heavy clay since its inert and don't seem to melt. I thought about this for a long time, so I did a test on some scrap pieces. It just might work. It will be a really slow process since each tube will need to be wrapped with a bead of clay after soldering. My trial seems to prove this at the moment, but remember I only did a few tubes in a scrap part I had made in the past. I let you know after I tackle the real project.
Ok.. I see no other way, you will have to hard solder your end caps and tube section to the 2" all in one shot.. so that you can solder your water inlet/outlet fitting so you can check for leaks before moving soldering the reducer and the elbow on.. just lots more work, that all.. once you solder have solder the inlet/outlet and check for leaks, then wrap them with a small wet rag, before soldering your fittings..piperdave wrote:the end caps are the sticking point in my build. I'm going with silver solder and acetylene and regular lead free for the other joints. I will update this thread as I (hopefully) make progress. There are some excellent shotgun build threads here that I have taken inspiration from. Here's some more pic's. still working on the end caps.
Soldering SS to copper is quite easy, especially a ss ferrule to copper.. you need Harris Stay Clean liquid flux, it is available in 1 oz for about $12 at welding shops or on ebay.. you make a circle with 1/8" solder so it fits just tight inside the copper pipe, depending on what size pipe you are using may need to make 2, and apply heat just to the ss ferrule, it help if you do the work on a fire brick or something like it.. and watch for the solder to start soften, then work it around use heat.. you solder the ferrule first to the copper pipe, then solder to the elbow after with the ferrule wrapped with a small wet rag..piperdave wrote:By the end I WILL have learned how to solder SS to copper
I paid ~$6.00 with tax for a 4oz bottle at the local welding supply house about a year ago... Paid about ~$12 and change for 4oz of the liquid and 4oz of the paste... Haven't even opened the paste yet... Lifetime supply if not wasted...StillerBoy wrote:Soldering SS to copper is quite easy, especially a ss ferrule to copper.. you need Harris Stay Clean liquid flux, it is available in 1 oz for about $12 at welding shops or on ebay..
That is what the US citizen have over us Canadian..rad14701 wrote:I paid ~$6.00 with tax for a 4oz bottle at the local welding supply house about a year ago... Paid about ~$12 and change for 4oz of the liquid and 4oz of the paste... Haven't even opened the paste yet...
Another option is to construct ferrules using #4 gauge solid wire.. not all that hard to, and work good for product condenser..piperdave wrote:Adding ferrules between the 90 elbow and the shotgun makes too much sense (cleaning storing, maintenance, etc.) so, since I have the parts, I will do that.
No.. used #4 gauge solid wire, formed into a ring off 1 1/4" plastic pipe, then fitted to the 1 1/2 copper pipe, cut and fitted using a screw clamp until tight fit, then soldered..solartje wrote:- did you flatten the wire on the contact surface between shell and wire and/or bottem surface?
Once the ring is fitted properly, it is held in place with a screw clamp, making sore than the is square with the pipe base, then placed upright on a fire brick and heated.. heat some then apply flux at the point the ring and pipe make contact and continue to heat until when the solder meld when touched, working the solder around..solartje wrote:- where did you aply the solder? From the bottem or from above or both?