My shotgun condenser

Anything cooling/condenser related.

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solartje
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My shotgun condenser

Post by solartje »

I'm new here, and i have no experience in distilling, Metalworking or anything related to this new hobby, and i'm short of fancy machienery, but what i lack there i make up with a healthy appetide, a big wish to learn and two good pair of hands. Being a civil engineer helps. I already have made plans for a special condenser i haven't seen but thats for later.

So, as the cooler is the piece every still needs, i decided to start with that part and make it interchangable so i could use it for a pot still stripping at full power as for a vm , flute, etc. And go from there. First will be the pot still for heavy rums to learn the art

I have a 15g keg and as i have a 20amp max fuse i'll go for a single 4500w wave form heater on a controller.

Ok that's the background. After reading about 10 pages, searching for scrap i'll be making a 2" shell condenser with 4x 1/2" innertubes and due to a measuring mistake i cut my pipe at 46cm instead of 57cm giving me 45cm of effective cooling length. Should stil be ok for full power 4500w at 1 to 2l/minut water. ( in the calculator it's not clear if i should use the 4500w or the effective heat +- 3000w? And if i should use ID or OD)

Some pictures. I cut the endplates and 3bafles from a 2" pipe. Put them in a vice for day to flatten them.
I should be ok except i'm scared of the soldering part.
Plan is: step a: solder 1/2" water pipe and triclamp errule, step b solder the vapor tubes to the plate and c: the endplate to the shell.
BUT my endplates are very thin and i'm scared of leaks..

Idea is dubbel solution: make a 'easy flenge' on the innertubes, and behind the endplates put a ring of copperwire to give more place for the solder. I'll be using lots of flux obv.

I'll be drilling the holes when i found a stepdrill.

Any more advice or errors before i continue?

Question: what is the ideal ID for the cooling tubes for a regular pond pump? 16mm or 10mm that's the options i have.
Attachments
Here the options to reduce the risc on leaks. Do both? Just one? Neither. I'm open for sugestions before i start my first solder test
Here the options to reduce the risc on leaks. Do both? Just one? Neither. I'm open for sugestions before i start my first solder test
This is the prepping of the parts. I'm not sure how tight the endplates needs to be. I'm in the 1mm ballparc. They are very very thin. I don't have anything thicker atm
This is the prepping of the parts. I'm not sure how tight the endplates needs to be. I'm in the 1mm ballparc. They are very very thin. I don't have anything thicker atm
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still_stirrin
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Re: My shotgun condenser

Post by still_stirrin »

It looks like a great start. Whenever a new build is started, there are always lessons learned which would make the "next" build easier/smoother. It's all a part of the learning curve. But you've got to start somewhere, so good for you.

One tip I would have for you is to solder your tube bank complete with the endplates before sticking it in the shell. And when you do that, build up the solder a little bit thicker on the ends. Then you can grind the surfaces down slightly, making them flat as possible. But the extra solder should add some mass (for heatsinking) for the next step.

Also, be sure to brush a little flux and solder the baffles in place too. It doesn't have to be pretty....there will be some drips. Keep a cool, damp cloth handy to wipe the solder after its has "taken" and you've pulled the torch away. Cooling the joint will keep it from dripping too much.

Then, when you insert the tube bank into the shell, dab some flux around the endplates perimeter. I'd also recommend sticking a cool, damp rag into each of the vapor tube outlets. This will help keep the solder from melting around the vapor tube to endplate joints. Use your torch on the outside of the shell directly adjacent to the endplate. Be patient, it will take a while to heat up the solder to melt on the inside. Since you added a little extra inside, you may not need to add more. But be prepared to add a touch to help fill your gap. Once the shell is heated enough, the solder will flow quickly. Don't panic, just be prepared for it.

Finally, once the tube and shell case is done, you'll be ready to add the bell reducer ends or triclover ferrule (if that is how you plan to attach to the vapor input). I use a C-clamp or 2 as a heat sink at the common intersection line of the shell and the tube bank endplates. This reduces the likelihood of melting that joint when you solder on the reducer/TC ferrule. Again, keep a cool, damp cloth handy to help control the direction and speed of heating and cooling, and the drip runs of solder. Remember, the solder will flow where the flux is, so make sure you have it properly fluxed.

Well, those are my soldering tips. You'll manage just fine because you'll learn a skill as you progress. And then, you'll be ready for more builds!
ss
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Re: My shotgun condenser

Post by solartje »

Thx for the very detailed help s.s.
I'll read it several times to be sure i'm getting every part. It reminds me of what i've read but having it all written down in details helps making it clear.

Any oppinion on:
- the ring + flange on the vaportubes? Is it unnecessary as long as i follow your plan?
- diameter for the watertubes/inlet tubes? 10mm or 15mm (is there something like to small ID as to cause damage to the pump because of flow restriction)
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still_stirrin
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Re: My shotgun condenser

Post by still_stirrin »

solartje wrote: - the ring + flange on the vaportubes? Is it unnecessary as long as i follow your plan?
I don't think you'd need the wire ring. Keep the hole snug to the tube and swage (expand) the tube a little so it fits tight. Use your sanding cloth to rough up the endplate and around the tubes where you'll solder. You can extend the tube past the endplate a little so you can get a good solid solder joint. Then, when its cooled down, you can grind the ends down so they're flat/flush.

Again, the mass of the solder and copper will help keep the solder from melting when you solder the tube bank into the shell.
solartje wrote: - diameter for the watertubes/inlet tubes? 10mm or 15mm (is there something like to small ID as to cause damage to the pump because of flow restriction)
Because of the efficiency of a shotgun, you won't need a lot of water flow. I would use 7-10mm ID tubing for the water inlet and outlet, or what ever size your water control valve is. It certainly doesn't need to be 15-18mm ID (huge).

Remember, the water should be "counterflow"...cold in at the product outlet and warm water outlet where the vapor enters.
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Re: My shotgun condenser

Post by StillerBoy »

solartje a few extra soldering tips..

The flux and solder size you use is important in making some nice solder joint, and eases of making the joint.. some very good solder flux are Superior 71 and Harris Stay Clean are two of the best, Superior 71 is both a copper and stainless steel flux and water washable, and it is one of the best on copper.. Harris is best for stainless steel to stainless steel..

Yours solders quality and size is important is detailing area such as condenser building.. try to buy solder which has some silver content to it, usually stated on the round.. sizing the solder down makes it easier in the application.. usually solder size is 1/8", you can get small size but pay much more for it, and one can make some.. just take the 1/8", cut a piece of 12"in length, take a hammer and flatten it some, then cut it in half.. make some of varies sizes.. by using smaller sized solder, much less heat application is required to do the soldering..

Another tip is cut yourself what I can water rags.. they nothings more than 1" wide by 6 - 12" long rags, which when wetted and wrapped around an area previously solder, that soldered area will not unsolder itself..

Soldering is learning how to apply heat, and using the best flux for the application, a good flux makes the job so much easier..

Mars
Attachments
Here's what can be done with resized and wet rags
Here's what can be done with resized and wet rags
Resized solder
Resized solder
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Re: My shotgun condenser

Post by piperdave »

This thread totally reminds me to get off my ass and finish my shotgun build. Thanks for the additional soldering tips. I think that was why I was delaying. Fear of f-ing up the end plates. Thanks again.
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Re: My shotgun condenser

Post by solartje »

Lol piperdave. You welcome. Be sure to share the experience.

Stillstirin: ok. Roger !

Mars: i already bought the solder setup. I'm from europe so it's hard to buy the exact same brand. I'll atach a picture. The shop told me this is what i needed. Lead free (97% tin, 3% copper and some silver) for drinkable copper piped. The flux is for copper, brass and steel. Hope i got it right. The solder is 1/10th " or 2,7mm. Thick enough to cut in two like you sugested?


Anyway: i wanted to drill my five endplates, so i bought a conical drill (expensive!!) and i f#@&! Them up. I spend two days making them, sanding etc and all for nothing. Maybe good enough for the baffles?

I tried different things. With wood backing, without, slow speed, fast speed, pressure, no pressure. Nothing works... It starts ok (first 4mm) but very soon it doesn't cut anymore and the whole only gets bigger once the plate is hot and the drill 'pushes' the copper out instead of cutting 'rings' off.
Sight. Guess this is al part of the 'learning' proces but i was swearing as a drunken sailor. Any idea what i'm doing wrong or what to do?
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My big mess :'-(
My big mess :'-(
My flux and solder
My flux and solder
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Re: My shotgun condenser

Post by StillerBoy »

Here is how I've done the holes, used a piece of plywood elevated by 3/4" with a 3/4" hole in the middle, used a step bit which I think is something like you call conical drill bit.. pre-drill holes in 2 or 3 steps up to 1/4" first, then use the step bit.. will make clean holes..

As for the solder and flux, not familiar with the brand, but try soldering two piece of scrap copper, and see how the flux work, does it burn once it is heated and blacken, and how well does the solder flow, and after how easy is it to clean, should be able to clean just using warm water and dish soap..

As I stated before, make different sizes for the solder, you will see how much easier it is to work with..

Mars
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end result, plate for flute
end result, plate for flute
setup for step bit use
setup for step bit use
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Re: My shotgun condenser

Post by Lyonsie »

97 + 3 = 100 theres no silver in your solder. Iv never seen a stepped bit f up that badly. Drill slowly with even pressure and that should help.
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Re: My shotgun condenser

Post by solartje »

It's not a stepbit as those i found would jump from 14 to 16mm so i imagined it would be hard to get the 15mm i needed. Mine is same principle but the angle is in a straight line and costed 15€ instead of 70€. It's visible in the picture i posted. Maybe that's the problem. I did use a wood underneath it but didn't predrill.
I'll try again tomorow, slow speed, add oil to cool the endplate. I think the bit is the problem...


The solder mentions on the back it has silver, but after some resaerch you are right it's not the one i need. This 93+3cu and i need the 97+3ag and the fluid flux not the paste! I haven't opened it so i'll bring it back :roll:

I'm loosing a bit of faight, maybe i'm over my head, but it's called learning and i should embrace the f#ckups as part of the process. Thx for the help and pray for me :crazy:
Last edited by solartje on Wed Feb 15, 2017 3:09 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: My shotgun condenser

Post by StillerBoy »

solartje wrote:I'll do a test tomorrow. I'm loosing a bit of faight, maybe i'm over my head, but it's called learning and i should embrace the f#ckups as part of the process. Thx for the help and pray for me
Stay with it, it will all come together.. :thumbup:
Been there, today it a different story.. took lots experiements to get to be somewhat able to do nice work.. but I still screwup ever so often.. thanks to files and being able to restart over..

Mars
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Re: My shotgun condenser

Post by Lyonsie »

Id definitely advise buying a new bit. Try a flea market. I got mine for four euro second hand. Its easy to tell are they worn beyond use or not.
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solartje
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Re: My shotgun condenser

Post by solartje »

Thx stillerboy.
Good news is. If i can do a condenser the rest of the potstill will be easy but my dream is a flute.
I'll try my first easy flanges 2.0 tests tomorrow. Decided to not use ss ferrules but stay diy and copper all the way. Can't wait ! (Unless i f#ck again obv :twisted:
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Re: My shotgun condenser

Post by still_stirrin »

solartje wrote:It's not a stepbit as those i found would jump from 14 to 16mm so i imagined it would be hard to get the 15mm i needed. Mine is same principle but the angle is in a straight line and costed 15€ instead of 70€...I did use a wood underneath it but didn't predrill...I think the bit is the problem...
That's a reamer tool...not a drill bit. It's made to enlarge holes, primarily in wood.

You definitely need to use the right tools to do the job right. A stepped drill bit increases the hole diameter a little at a time. You'd be better off with a series of high speed drill bits with a close gradient in sizes. It takes more time to change bits frequently, but you'll be in better control of the machine process.

I suggest drilling a couple of small indexing holes in the plates and screw them to a block of wood. You can always plug the holes with solder or even riveted copper wire and then solder once you've managed to drill your vapor tube holes.

Almost always, I have to make tools to help in the construction process, be it drilling, soldering, support, or whatever. Tool design is just as fundamental as the parts you're building.

Don't give up. You're making progress....
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Re: My shotgun condenser

Post by solartje »

They are the same as a step bit, but without the step but it mentioned to cut holes in metalsheet. I'll ad a better picture. How do you get 15mm holes if all stepbits i found go from 14 straight to 16mm?
Image

Thinking:
1/ why not hardsilversolder the tubes and softsolder the endplate? The hardsolder won't meld
2/ why not flange the vaportubes and solder from the inside to the endplates so no solder is visible ( less risk to melt, and more space for the solder to stick too)?
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Re: My shotgun condenser

Post by Lyonsie »

20170212_234330-450x800.jpg
20170216_110400-450x800.jpg
They certainly are not the same as a step bit. On a step bit. The main cutting edge is the step itself. There's a picture of mine. It has no 15 mm either and yet theres also a picture of the holes you want to drill.
You have the wrong tool for the job. To get a 15mm hole is easy, you simply take it to 14mm and then proceed cautiously flipping the work peice and drilling slowly whilst all the time checking with a peice of your pipe. It will get you a snug fit every time. Hope this helps answer your question.
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Re: My shotgun condenser

Post by solartje »

Lyonsie. You are correct :-) i found out the same thing trying and trying. I read your comment to late :lolno: Mine has a step to go from 0mm to 4mm and that part cut perfect at very slow speed, the rest was doing all the harm. Guess that's what happens when you try to outsmart a prooved method :roll: at least the piece is usefull. It makes very good 10° pipe-ends angler so the pipes are just slightly <1mm larger and can be hammered a perfect fit and flush in the holes :twisted:

Has anyone tried to shape the vapor pipes to increase turbulence? I've read some put things like a coiled strip in the pipe but i don't think it's the way to go. I think it could block the air entering the pipes to replace the vapor volume...
How about just making these bends with a vice. The baffles will need to be drilled bigger to go over them, but nothing a wire or small plate can't help. You can't press the vice in both directions when assembled. I tried that. Looks like a easy way to get inside turbulence. At perfect vertical position the vapor might fall straight down ( like i read in some posts). Putting the condenser at a slight angle will cause smearing. So this idea crap? :thumbup:
Attachments
Made a jig to get the curve on the fittings. Was expecting hell, but it was actually super easy. Gives hope :-)
Made a jig to get the curve on the fittings. Was expecting hell, but it was actually super easy. Gives hope :-)
Bought the parts for the cooling. 15mm to 1/2&quot;  , 1/2f to 1/2f valve, 1/2&quot; to nipple (usef for gas, but fits perfect inside a 10mm ID reinforced pvc. The clamps where promo (5€ for 6 hose clamps, 2 for the potstill 4 for the future vm, and 6 big clamps perfect to make flanges for the tri clamp. GOOD deal &lt;3 ).   Not sure if i'll go 15mm copper tube before the fitting, or solder the brass fitting straight on the 2&quot;. I supose both options work, but let me know if one option is better.
Bought the parts for the cooling. 15mm to 1/2" , 1/2f to 1/2f valve, 1/2" to nipple (usef for gas, but fits perfect inside a 10mm ID reinforced pvc. The clamps where promo (5€ for 6 hose clamps, 2 for the potstill 4 for the future vm, and 6 big clamps perfect to make flanges for the tri clamp. GOOD deal <3 ). Not sure if i'll go 15mm copper tube before the fitting, or solder the brass fitting straight on the 2". I supose both options work, but let me know if one option is better.
IMG_20170216_141639_617.jpg
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Re: My shotgun condenser

Post by solartje »

Some updates.

Did my first soldering :clap:

As i didn't had the correct bit or wire gauge, i thought it was better to experiment on scrap i have laying aroundbbefore i mess up the real pieces.

Ok, good news: the easy flange soldering went very well :eugeek: . The bad news, only half is well done :roll:
The hardest part is to actually keep the wire perfectly flat. As soon as i tighten the clip it wants to move. I also think it's easyer to make the flange larger and just cut it to fit. Need to find a way so that copper wire is perfect flat for the TC to give even pressure. I'm not sure saving 6€ or 20€ for a copper flange is worth all the trouble. Maybe when my skills get better the flange will be perfect flat and leakfree. Maybe the thicker gauge will be easyer.


Then i tried the gas 1/2" npt and that failed. The copper did stick to it. So the material is not the problem. I think i burned the flux, causing the solder to blob.

Ah well, i'll clean it and retry untill i can do it eyes closed i guess. I do neex to buy some gloved, all this copper make my hand black.
Attachments
My testing. It looks almost like a condenser but i'm far from it yet. I think i underestimated this. A shotgun is hard. Simple 90° bends etc should be fine.
My testing. It looks almost like a condenser but i'm far from it yet. I think i underestimated this. A shotgun is hard. Simple 90° bends etc should be fine.
The brass nipple didn't work. The flux got red, i guess that means i burned it? Or what is wrong?
The brass nipple didn't work. The flux got red, i guess that means i burned it? Or what is wrong?
The bad side :-)
The bad side :-)
The good side with angled flange. Not bad for my very first solder. My hearth was pumping. Lol
The good side with angled flange. Not bad for my very first solder. My hearth was pumping. Lol
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Re: My shotgun condenser

Post by StillerBoy »

solartje wrote:Then i tried the gas 1/2" npt and that failed. The copper did stick to it. So the material is not the problem. I think i burned the flux, causing the solder to blob.
As I see it, your copper and brass fitting were still to cold, and your putting your heat directly at the solder area, which in turn burned your solder flux..

Next time apply heat the brass fitting, and to the copper about an inch or so away from the joint, and don't heat directly at the area to solder, but mainly heating the fitting... the brass will change colour slowly, when that starts to happen, pull the heat away, and check with the solder and see if it start to melt, if not continue to heat and check.. when it does start to melt, keep the heat to the fitting and move the heat ahead of the area to solder..

Also you a smaller size of solder for that size of job.. and never apply heat directly to the solder..

Mars
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Re: My shotgun condenser

Post by StillerBoy »

solartje wrote:The hardest part is to actually keep the wire perfectly flat. As soon as i tighten the clip it wants to move.
Your parts where difficult to work with and solder only because they were not perfectly flat, both pieces need to flat.. also when you use the screw clamp to hold them in place, the gap was to tight thereby cause the ring to fold/push up..

When use the screw clamp to hold everything in place, use a screwdriver to tap down the ring once the unit is tighten.. also solder that type of joint on a fire brick.. it well be much easier to work with..

Mars
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Re: My shotgun condenser

Post by solartje »

Greath !! Thanks mars. I can work with that help.
At least i learned how not to do it. :lol:
Try 2 tomorrow. :twisted:
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Re: My shotgun condenser

Post by still_stirrin »

Two more hands certainly would help when trying to solder the flange. Got any helpers around you?
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Re: My shotgun condenser

Post by solartje »

Sure, but no idea how she could help though? I always use my vice as my second pair of hands.

I need to build a jig to hold the brass fittings in place though. Remembered i saw that somewhere.
Maybe just puting a short 15mm pipe inside the fitting and all the way inside the 2" pipe without flux to keep the hole and fitting centered would work too. Gonna try that too


Ps: thanks for all the help and fast responses. Without the support of this form i don't think i would make it , so thanks for everything !


Edit: the pipe method was to much work. So i made this jig. 1min work, and works absolutly perfect ! I use two hollow wall 'plug' , i remove the rod of one, i spread the legs, cut two legs of one of them so it fits on the curved surface of the shell, mount it and voila. I can position the nipples 100% perfect and i can tighten it has hard or soft as wanted. When its fitted it's impossible to move the nipple. Perfect to solder !
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My nipple jig :-)
My nipple jig :-)
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Re: My shotgun condenser

Post by still_stirrin »

solartje wrote:I need to build a jig to hold the brass fittings in place though. Remembered i saw that somewhere.
Maybe just puting a short 15mm pipe inside the fitting and all the way inside the 2" pipe without flux to keep the hole and fitting centered would work too. Gonna try that too
Bend up a wire clip (I used solid copper wire stripped of its jacket) and pull it in place. You could wrap all the way around the 2" pipe and over the threaded fitting. Just stay clear of the place you want to solder. Stainless wire would work too.
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Re: My shotgun condenser

Post by StillerBoy »

solartje wrote:I need to build a jig to hold the brass fittings in place though. Remembered i saw that somewhere.
Maybe just puting a short 15mm pipe inside the fitting and all the way inside the 2" pipe without flux to keep the hole and fitting centered would work too. Gonna try that too
The idea of using the item in the pictures for holding the fitting, in my view will not work, solder will get to it and solder itself to the fitting.. first thing is to make sure the fitting fit tightly into the hole, if not, then it needs to be held in place by wrapping a very small strand of wire long enough to wrap around the 2" pipe and fitting and twist lock the fitting in place.. that should do the trick..

Mars
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Some thing like this, remembering to apply heat only to the fitting
Some thing like this, remembering to apply heat only to the fitting
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Re: My shotgun condenser

Post by googe »

nice work on the jig mate :thumbup:
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Re: My shotgun condenser

Post by solartje »

Thanks googe, gonna try it today

Mars: i'm not getting why the jig would get soldered. It's not touching any fluxed parts? On the inside only the top of the legs touch the shell 1" away from the fluxed hole, and on the top there will come no solder. The rod is 2mm thick and no where near the fitting. Only one way to find out 8)

Any reason why your fitting is inside the tube (hole in shell bigger then OD fitting) VS shaped? (Like in mine where the hole is the size of the ID of the fitting). Is it pure a visal choice or a strength reason? In my codenser the tubes are close to the wall. I'm not even sure i could push the fitting in like in your deplagh. I'll post some solder pics later today :mrgreen:
StillerBoy
Master of Distillation
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Joined: Thu Dec 01, 2016 6:27 pm
Location: Ontario

Re: My shotgun condenser

Post by StillerBoy »

solartje wrote:i'm not getting why the jig would get soldered. It's not touching any fluxed parts? On the inside only the top of the legs touch the shell 1" away from the fluxed hole, and on the top there will come no solder. The rod is 2mm thick and no where near the fitting. Only one way to find out
Reason being that the jig will be heated before the other parts will, because the jig parts are much smaller in size than the rest, and will warm up faster.. and flux and solder will travel there first, if not it will.. whatever part gets hotter first that where the solder will go.. but like you said, give is a try..
solartje wrote:Any reason why your fitting is inside the tube (hole in shell bigger then OD fitting) VS shaped? (Like in mine where the hole is the size of the ID of the fitting). Is it pure a visal choice or a strength reason? In my codenser the tubes are close to the wall. I'm not even sure i could push the fitting in like in your deplagh.
Both.. trim the fitting so it is even with the inner side of the tubing..
" I know quite certainly that I myself have no special talent. Curiosity, Obsession and dogged endurance, combined with self-criticism, have brought me to my knowledge and understanding "

– Albert Einstein
solartje
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Re: My shotgun condenser

Post by solartje »

Ah both. I see. I guess putting it over the hole or in the hole is just a matter of preference.

Ok so i tried it again. The jig works perfect. Like i said there is no contact so the solder can't touch it. It got red faster then the messing but it didn't influence it in any way. Stayed very strong , and i got it off without a problem. I usef it several times as the soldering wasn't working and the jig itself worked every time. Not sure if it would work with the fitting inside the hole vs outside over it like i did

Now the hard part, the soldering. I messed up first try. The fitting did change colour but it didn't transfer the heat fast enough to heat the copper, making the flux on the fitting burn before the copper was ready.

Removed it, cleaned and new try. This time i heated the fitting, when flux on fitting boiled i started heating the copper, untill both sides where ready and then it worked. The silver didn't flow as well as copper on copper, so i had to touch the joint in 3different places to get the silver all around ( maybe i'm not using enough flux? I wanted a small line of silver so i used only a tiny circel of flux around the hole) but hey it worked.

After cleaning it even looked very well ! And it's not leaking. I'm a proud mofo :twisted:
Attachments
My 2th attempt. Woop woop :-)
My 2th attempt. Woop woop :-)
My failed attempt. I heated only the fitting, hoping it would transfer the heat to the 2&quot;.
My failed attempt. I heated only the fitting, hoping it would transfer the heat to the 2".
StillerBoy
Master of Distillation
Posts: 3387
Joined: Thu Dec 01, 2016 6:27 pm
Location: Ontario

Re: My shotgun condenser

Post by StillerBoy »

Solartje: congratulation on figuiring out some of the point required in soldering, making your jig work.. your first picture, second attempt look good.. did you test it for strength..
solartje wrote:Now the hard part, the soldering. I messed up first try. The fitting did change colour but it didn't transfer the heat fast enough to heat the copper, making the flux on the fitting burn before the copper was ready.
Here is why in part it didn't work out.. the fitting is not touching the other surface properly, less than half of the fitting surface is touching the copper, heat can not transfer if not touching.. whereas in the second attempt you help the solder to transfer to the two surface by applying heat to the solder.. this does work ok, but it does make a weaker joint..

With the fitting not making proper contact all around, using a wire to hold the fitting in place will not work, as it is very hard to hold the fitting in place by itself.. for the wire setup to hold, the fitting has to have full contact with whatever it is to be in contact with..

Other issues could be the size of the solder used, how the heat from the tip was applied, and what tip you are using.. all these have a bearing on the end result..

Your are learning which is very good.. soldering is more of an art than a task, many factors come into play, and all have to be balanced, it just take time and practice..

Mars
" I know quite certainly that I myself have no special talent. Curiosity, Obsession and dogged endurance, combined with self-criticism, have brought me to my knowledge and understanding "

– Albert Einstein
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