Element Height/Location

[MoonBreath]

Noticed most are all pretty close, but really not noticing any standards or preferences for actual location of element assembly ...Would like to know the industry standard on home distillation sizes of 15-25 gal boiler.
Knowing the exact center from bottom would give a preference point for anyone starting their boiler build...Saw a newbie build picture where the element appears to be setting rite on bottom pan...Somewhere I read to keep it 4" or so for performance and life basically.

[Fredistiller]

I struggle with the same problem, making plans for my own boiler. I find nowhere an answer, that should maybee be putted in the "new to destillation" part of this forum....

[frunobulax]

A buddy and I have 2 elements each in a couple 55 gallon SS drums for making beer. They're about 3-4" high and the placement is all about the convenience of getting to them, location
in regards to the panel and not interfering with the other equipment. YA want them as low, so they can be fired up as soon as possible.

[DBCFlash]

I haven't drilled the hole for mine yet, so I'd love to get a solid answer to this question. I've read that running the elements dry is bad, but having them to high up leads to a lot left in the bottom.

I also wondered if at the end of the run when the element is starting to become exposed, could you just shut it off and finish with a hot plate under the pot? There would be a lot less to heat at the end so you wouldn't need the massive powah of the main element, you wouldn't risk running it dry and you could run well after the element was completely uncovered.

Just spit-balling an idea.

[frunobulax]

You should NEVER run them to the point where they may be dry, that's a sure way to burn them out. You should maintain a few inches over them, especially distilling, where you're
boiling off liquid and not able to see the element. Another reason to keep them low.

[der wo]

The lower the better for an even temperature in the mash. But of course there is a "too low" because of safety.
To finish the run with less power (hotplate) is not a good idea. It gets incredible slow. I use the same or more power at the end.

[bilgriss]

The lower the better, but not so low that you will nearly touch the bottom. With most elements that isn't really a problem, since the base is wider than the element itself.

On the other hand, the majority of your wash/mash is not alcohol. There's always enough in the boiler when I'm done that I think there's more margin for error than people think. I wonder if the element life is longer with a little more space below.

Nothing like a few conflicting observations!

[Opdog]

What der woo said. I mounted my second element too high and as a result i can't do batches smaller than 10 gallons without turning off the top element. It was not well thought through.

It I were to do it over again, I think the simple solution is to find the bottom of the keg measure about 4" up and drill my hole, then measure 5" up and drill another hole on the opposite side of the keg. The key is to space the elements so that they do touch and there is space for the liquid to circulate, but are still low enough that you don't need a huge charge to run both elements.

As a case in point, I did a cleaning run last week and did not follow my normal procedures. The top element was not covered and blew out. Fortunately, it was just a water run, but now I'm sitting on 10 gallons of Birdwatchers that I can't run until my new element arrives.


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[Opdog]

That should say "do NOT touch"


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[rgreen2002]

I agree. As low as you can safely get them so you can use the boiler for smaller batches if you like. I drilled a hole and then turned the boiler 90 degrees for the next hole just an inch or 2 higher. The elements sit perpendicular and just above each other.

[GrassHopper]

Was wondering the same thing Moon. I have not yet drilled my hole and am still waiting for my controller parts. I suppose the main thing to consider is to allow enough room to be able to screw in your element due to the turn size of some of these low watt density units without hitting the bottom for those with a screw in element. I won't have that issue though due to the fact that I went with an adapter with a tri-clamp from Still Dragon.

[still_stirrin]

The bottom dish on a keg is not flat, so when you mount the element as low as you can on the cylinder, the element will always be in liquid. The lowest you can go will still result in about a gallon of liquid remaining.

When you get it installed, slowly pour water in, measuring what you add. Then, when the element is covered is the absolute minimum liquid you should always have in the boiler (at the end of the run) to avoid a burnout. So when calculating how much wash to use, always figure the wash initial volume - alcohol removed (at an average %ABV) and ensure that it will always be more than your "minimum" liquid level to keep the element immersed.

It takes a little math, but you will soon know what you'll typically leave behind (backset).

Bottomline...install it as low as possible.
ss

[squeezins]

I put the first one 3" off the bottom and 4" apart if using multiple. My boilers are flat bottom and 3" gives me plenty of clearance when screwing the element in .

[Badmotivator]

My boiler's element location is a little unorthodox. I went up through the bottom of the keg and then bent the elements down to a flatter posture. I have a very low minimum charge, though probably not much less than a low-on-the-side orientation. I have been very happy with the results. The advantage is that the element guard and cord stuff is out of sight. The disadvantage is that there are two small wells that do not drain, but I find them easy to rinse them out.

There is a trick to bending copper-jacketed elements without breaking them: anneal with a torch, bend a little, repeat as needed.

[Skipper1953]

I had a 2" sanitary ferrule welded to the side of my 11 gallon stock pot. This arrangement allows me to use a curvy element very close to the bottom. It cost a bit more than other ways but that is what I wanted. I have the option of switching to a different element or attaching my steam injector fitting.

For those interested in actually mounting their element in the bottom of a kettle or a keg, try Googling "hot tub heating element". You should find several element options. I used a flow-thru type hot tub heating element in a BIAB kettle with very good results.

[rad14701]

The elements in my two current electric boilers are mounted fairly close to the bottom so I can do lower volume runs in them safely... One is 1.5" on center from the bottom and the other is 2" on center from the bottom... Both are flat bottomed stock pots... No problems whatsoever...

[MoonBreath]

Would be nice for anyone to measure the center from bottom of any store-bought hobby boilers, to note any differences, if much.
Thinkn also, I wouldn't want my element touching anything, or having it bent.
Some folks say theres a cold spot under the element, but I don't see how ifn an element glows 360° all around ..

[Skipper1953]

I would think that any cold spot, if there actually is one, would be eliminated once the convection current starts to move the mash/wash.

My elements are between 1.5" and 2" from the bottom of the pots.

[DBCFlash]

I used a 5500 watt hot tub element and it mounts through the bottom. Looks like about a half inch from touching the bottom.