Making a keg still

Fittings, parrots, packing, tooling and so on.

Moderator: Site Moderator

Post Reply
speedfreaksteve
Swill Maker
Posts: 352
Joined: Mon Oct 30, 2006 12:26 pm
Location: Ontario, Canada

Making a keg still

Post by speedfreaksteve »

I'm tired of doing 20L at a time so I'm going to turn my 48L SS keg that I have here into a strip run pot still.

I got a good sized copper bowl, now I just need to figure out a way to cut a hole in the top of the keg to closely match the size of the bowl.

I have a reciprocating saw, but I dunno if that is strong enough to cut it that easily. I guess I could try drilling a couple holes in it and see if it will cut with a bi-metal blade.

Also I need to figure out a way to clamp down the upside down bowl to the keg during my runs.

Any suggestions on these two problems?
User avatar
Husker
retired
Posts: 5031
Joined: Thu Aug 17, 2006 1:04 pm

Re: Making a keg still

Post by Husker »

speedfreaksteve
I'm tired of doing 20L at a time so I'm going to turn my 48L SS keg that I have here into a strip run pot still.

I got a good sized copper bowl, now I just need to figure out a way to cut a hole in the top of the keg to closely match the size of the bowl.

I have a reciprocating saw, but I dunno if that is strong enough to cut it that easily. I guess I could try drilling a couple holes in it and see if it will cut with a bi-metal blade.

Also I need to figure out a way to clamp down the upside down bowl to the keg during my runs.

Any suggestions on these two problems?
Use either a angle cutter (small circular grinder), or a plasma cutter. I have learned from experience, if you use a plasma cutter (works great), then be SURE to fill the keg about 2/3 full of water. Otherwise the plasma stainless steel vapors will "stick" to the inside of the keg, discoloring it and are tough to remove. The plasma cutter does make a nice "clean" cut, and you are done in about 2 minutes though.

H.
pintoshine
Distiller
Posts: 1132
Joined: Sun Aug 20, 2006 1:30 pm

Post by pintoshine »

http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopi ... 77&start=0
This one looked like a robust clamp.
rangaz
Swill Maker
Posts: 382
Joined: Wed Aug 09, 2006 1:29 am
Location: Perth, Aust.

Post by rangaz »

angle grinder (be sure to cut less than you need to because it will not even be close to a circle, then grind it back to the right size), jigsaws with metal blade, plasma, mill piece on a drill etc...
pintoshine
Distiller
Posts: 1132
Joined: Sun Aug 20, 2006 1:30 pm

Post by pintoshine »

Are you sure that is not a 58liter keg?
Mine is a 15.5 gallon or 58.66 L
Ofcourse I am not one to do anything the traditional way. Ido as little fabrication to the kegs as possible.
I usually get a 6" x 1 1/4" threaded 304 pipe. I cut it in two and weld one on the outlet and I cut a hole and weld the other over the hole. I screw copper reducers to the out put and a ball valve on the other with a 2" x1/4 extension to hold on to my funnel on top the valve.
On the bottom I weld a 3/4 inch half coupler for the drain.
It has taken me a considerable amount of time to learn to tig weld that thin keg stuff but I am getting better.
Image
Image
olcarguy
Swill Maker
Posts: 179
Joined: Mon Nov 20, 2006 2:02 pm
Location: Ontario

Post by olcarguy »

Your reciprocating saw will do a good job, just take your time, don't rush, use lots of coolant ( kerosene, cutting oil, liquid bacon grease etc. ) Mark the outline of your bowl on the keg, then mark a 1/2 inch smaller circle inside. Drill starting hole for blade and have at it.
I don't care if you lick windows,
take the special bus
or occasionally pee on yourself..
You hang in there sunshine, you're friggin' special
Uncle Remus
Trainee
Posts: 787
Joined: Tue May 03, 2005 8:38 am
Location: great white north

Post by Uncle Remus »

Steve,

I used a sabre saw with a metal blade. It cut it like cheese, a perfect hole in less than a minute. A keg isn't very thick, it will cut easily.
Give a man a fish and he will eat for a day. Teach a man to fish and he will sit in a boat all day and drink beer.
pintoshine
Distiller
Posts: 1132
Joined: Sun Aug 20, 2006 1:30 pm

Recently complete and out the door

Post by pintoshine »

Image
Image
I have refined the keg a bit. This is my sixth one this year.
It has my variable 240V 4.5KW control on it.
The owner of this one requested extra long legs. That is what the bolts at the top and bottom are for. This makes it free standing and tall enough to empty into a 5 gallon bucket.
He gets to polish it himself.
User avatar
Tater
Admin
Posts: 9678
Joined: Mon Oct 25, 2004 9:19 am
Location: occupied south

Post by Tater »

I went at it using the plug. http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f136/ ... 0012-1.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
I use a pot still.Sometimes with a thumper
Ricky
Swill Maker
Posts: 459
Joined: Fri Jan 13, 2006 2:38 pm
Location: Gods Mtn

Post by Ricky »

i agree with the use of a plasma cutter if you have access to one. if you use a saber, jig, or reciprocating saw be sure to wear hearing protection. makes an awful lot of racket.
Day Late;Dollar Short
Red Neck City Boy
Novice
Posts: 16
Joined: Sat Nov 18, 2006 7:35 pm

Post by Red Neck City Boy »

Here is my solution... works pretty good!

Image

Also, I've cut out the lids of a whole lot of kegs for homebrewers. I've found that an angle grinder with a metal cutting blade will cut through it in about 10 minutes just be sure to finish the edges or you are sure to cut yourself.
speedfreaksteve
Swill Maker
Posts: 352
Joined: Mon Oct 30, 2006 12:26 pm
Location: Ontario, Canada

Post by speedfreaksteve »

Nice but I want something I can clean easily, so I want at least a 5" hole.

To me if I can't get things extremely clean then it's not worth doing.
Rudi
Rumrunner
Posts: 518
Joined: Mon Nov 06, 2006 3:27 am
Location: 50 miles past kikatinalong up that dirt track

Post by Rudi »

I just recently cut the top out of my keg the sabre saw wouldnt cut a tight enough circle wanted to go in a straight line my metal blade may have been too thick. I ended up using an angle grinder with one of those 1mm thick metal cutoff wheels just went nice and slow and finished with a round file.used a stainless bowl and sink drain 8 bolts 1/4" by 1 " drilled 3/16 holes ran a 1/4 tap through used some ptfe tape on the thread srewed the bolts in from the inside and put nuts on the out side got them as tight as i could then used the old mudguard washers and wingnuts to grab the lip of the bowl and a gasket paper gasket 1 run no leaks :)
[img]http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q226 ... C_0360.jpg
[/img]
Such is life
junkyard dawg
Master of Distillation
Posts: 3086
Joined: Fri Feb 03, 2006 11:40 am
Location: Texas

Post by junkyard dawg »

That triclamp is a good simple way to attach the column, but I'd only do it if you run a waterbath or steam jacket. its easy to keep spotless.

even better maybe welding a half a stainless 2" nipple to the neck of the keg.
Then a threaded copper union on the column connects with no gaskets and zero leaks.
Fretman124
Novice
Posts: 63
Joined: Wed Nov 08, 2006 10:23 am
Location: North of the border, near the ocean

Post by Fretman124 »

I used an angle grinder with the very thin cutoff discs. Put the bowl on top, centered it, made a mark. Made another mark 1/2" inside of that and cut. Took 15 minutes, including chucking a small grinder wheel in the drill and smoothing it out. use ear protection because is very loud, high rrequency sound. I have a 7 " hole in the top of the keg, now. I drilled 8 11/32" holes spaced equally around the big hole and installed 5/16" stainless bolts with jam nuts. Got some large fender washers, bent them in half and use wing nuts to hold the bowl on with a cork gasket.

Look at the thread "built it myself" for pics
Last edited by Fretman124 on Wed Jan 10, 2007 7:51 am, edited 1 time in total.
theholymackeral wrote
Learn to use the search function... intellectual laziness is frowned upon here.
speedfreaksteve
Swill Maker
Posts: 352
Joined: Mon Oct 30, 2006 12:26 pm
Location: Ontario, Canada

Post by speedfreaksteve »

Fretman, that's exactly the type of setup I'd like to go with.

How are those bolts attached that the wingnuts connect to? I can't imagine that they're not wedged in somehow so they don't move.
fahdoul
Bootlegger
Posts: 125
Joined: Tue May 02, 2006 5:02 pm

Post by fahdoul »

The slickest keg conversion I've seen was the one on a recent thread that used a 4" triclamp ferrule welded to the keg top.

Rugged, big enough hole to get an arm inside, quick and easy to open and close, and absolutely leakproof.
Froggy
Swill Maker
Posts: 245
Joined: Mon Nov 06, 2006 1:30 am
Location: South East Oz

Post by Froggy »

This place has an 8" clamp but no 8" ferrule:

http://www.stpats.com/sanitaryfittings.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
Here froggy froggy..
Shane

Our reading material:
The Compleat Distiller
Making Pure Corn Whiskey
Rudi
Rumrunner
Posts: 518
Joined: Mon Nov 06, 2006 3:27 am
Location: 50 miles past kikatinalong up that dirt track

Post by Rudi »

check out lhcb's thread here it is (pic) thats how i did mine he has a good description
Such is life
Fretman124
Novice
Posts: 63
Joined: Wed Nov 08, 2006 10:23 am
Location: North of the border, near the ocean

Post by Fretman124 »

[quotw]]Fretman, that's exactly the type of setup I'd like to go with.

How are those bolts attached that the wingnuts connect to? I can't imagine that they're not wedged in somehow so they don't move.[/quote]

I went to Ace hardware and picked up the 5/16" bolts and got "jam" nuts or "thin" nuts....(all stainless) can't remeber what they are called. They are half-height nuts, i.e., half as thick as regular nuts. I drilled the hole 1/32" bigger than the bolts. Makes the bolt slide in easier. put the jam nuts on and then crank them down. They wontt move after that. Being stainless, you can put a serious crank on them
theholymackeral wrote
Learn to use the search function... intellectual laziness is frowned upon here.
stil_chillin
Novice
Posts: 26
Joined: Fri Mar 24, 2006 11:50 am

Post by stil_chillin »

I used two kegs. the first one i cut like a 9 inch round hole out of the top. the second one i cut like a 12 inch hole in. i used the 12 inch top for the lid on the keg with the 9 inch hole, the keg that i cut the 12 inch hole in i cut the top off and use for cooking my mash. if you take a 1 1/2 slip coupling you can soldier it in the hole of the 12 inch lid. from there you can adapt it with any size fittings. i went from the 1 1/2 pipe with a 2 inch reducer. i have a pot still "head" and a reflux still "head" that i can just switch back and forth.
Image
my reflux column
Image
my pot still head
Image
the pot still in action
Image
alcohol kills brain cells......but only the weak ones!!!!
stoker
Distiller
Posts: 1093
Joined: Fri Dec 02, 2005 9:16 am
Location: not there

Post by stoker »

phoe, that's a huge condensor on your reflux still, is that a coil in there?
-I have too much blood in my alcohol system-
Rudi
Rumrunner
Posts: 518
Joined: Mon Nov 06, 2006 3:27 am
Location: 50 miles past kikatinalong up that dirt track

Post by Rudi »

My guess is its a liebig but cant see the top of it?
Such is life
stil_chillin
Novice
Posts: 26
Joined: Fri Mar 24, 2006 11:50 am

Post by stil_chillin »

It is a liebig on the reflux, it was originally built as a internal reflux but i was not happy with the lack of control
Image


so i cut the condenser off turned it upside down and added a couple valves and it works like a charm, always looking for a better mouse trap :lol:
alcohol kills brain cells......but only the weak ones!!!!
Post Reply