induction heating ss keg...
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induction heating ss keg...
looking through the forum, found a few references to induction heating...
found questions on use of inductive heating ss kegs twice, but no answer...
has this be resolved as good or bad practice...?
william...
found questions on use of inductive heating ss kegs twice, but no answer...
has this be resolved as good or bad practice...?
william...
tell me how hard it is to do... tell me how expensive it will be... just don't tell me what i can not do...
lead, follow, or get out of the way... ankle biters will be kicked...
•*´¯)¸.•*´¯)¤ª"˜¨¯¯¨˜"william..."˜¨¯¯¨˜"ª¤(¯`*•.¸(¯`*•
lead, follow, or get out of the way... ankle biters will be kicked...
•*´¯)¸.•*´¯)¤ª"˜¨¯¯¨˜"william..."˜¨¯¯¨˜"ª¤(¯`*•.¸(¯`*•
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Re: induction heating ss keg...
I too have looked into induction heating. The cheaping induction burners (sub $100) usually have a glass top and will crack under the weight of keg. Commercial induction cooktops, while they are fantastic are quite expensive and require pro installation.
Re: induction heating ss keg...
I dont beleve it works with a keg.it has to be magnetic for induction stoves/hot plates to work.
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Re: induction heating ss keg...
Neither my 15.5 USG SS keg nor my Brewhaus Premium Kettle are attracted by/to a magnet. Induction heating would not be possible for these. In addition to the weight, the curved shape of a keg within the base would also present a problem for flat induction surfaces. The cost of getting a curved arrangement (like my Induction rice cooker has) would be prohibitive. I think it would need to be custom built.
On the other hand, Winware produce these induction-compatible stockpots from 8 to 80 qts ($44-$197):
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001AS81CA" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
The smaller sizes might be good for a stove-top still used on an induction cook-surface. One possibility might be to have a large grid or support with an opening for an induction hotplate to be spring loaded against the base of the pot/boiler. Many/most/all(?) induction burners have "size recognition" issues - they will not work with pots outside their sensing range. As much as the idea appeals, it might be cheaper to buy premium booze for the rest of my life than to seriously explore induction heating with keg-sized boilers (and I wouldn't consider that option!)
Somewhat off-topic:
Needing indoor stilling (Canadian winters mean gas/propane is not an option!!!) I've taken this route:
My 1500w cast iron hotplate works well with the flat base of the BH kettle for "dirty"washes, . It takes 90+ minutes to get the first drops of distillate.
I'm using internal elements for all cleaner/clear washes washes. Two of these 1650w/120v extra-low watt density elements work well in my BH 8usg kettle. (each element actually draws 117v/1500w (120 to 122v measured at the receptacles with no-load ):
http://www.amazon.com/RELIANCE-WATER-HE ... 324&sr=8-1" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
I get my first drops of distillate at about 35 minutes, Power control is by means of 2 router speed controls:
http://www.amazon.com/MLCS-9400-Standar ... 077&sr=8-1" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
I have these extra-low watt density elements waiting to be fitted to my keg:
http://www.amazon.com/Reliance-9000396- ... 880&sr=8-2" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
Preheat with lower element only at 5500w/240v for first drips in 30 to 40 minutes (or use both at 240v for a 15 - 20 minute warmup if power is available) then switch to both at 1375w/120v - each using the router controllers.
I have fairly good, inexpensive heat control. For better control the long-term plan is, eventually, to replace the router controllers with one MK-5500.
To return to topic:
While I favour tech/gadgets, for our purposes I'm not convinced that induction offers any significant advantages/savings/efficiencies over internal electric elements, where close to 100% of electrical energy is converted to useful/useable heat. Further I would suggest that heat control, especially with the MK-550 (or MK-1100) might well be significantly superior.
BUT..... I'm open to persuasion
On the other hand, Winware produce these induction-compatible stockpots from 8 to 80 qts ($44-$197):
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001AS81CA" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
The smaller sizes might be good for a stove-top still used on an induction cook-surface. One possibility might be to have a large grid or support with an opening for an induction hotplate to be spring loaded against the base of the pot/boiler. Many/most/all(?) induction burners have "size recognition" issues - they will not work with pots outside their sensing range. As much as the idea appeals, it might be cheaper to buy premium booze for the rest of my life than to seriously explore induction heating with keg-sized boilers (and I wouldn't consider that option!)
Somewhat off-topic:
Needing indoor stilling (Canadian winters mean gas/propane is not an option!!!) I've taken this route:
My 1500w cast iron hotplate works well with the flat base of the BH kettle for "dirty"washes, . It takes 90+ minutes to get the first drops of distillate.
I'm using internal elements for all cleaner/clear washes washes. Two of these 1650w/120v extra-low watt density elements work well in my BH 8usg kettle. (each element actually draws 117v/1500w (120 to 122v measured at the receptacles with no-load ):
http://www.amazon.com/RELIANCE-WATER-HE ... 324&sr=8-1" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
I get my first drops of distillate at about 35 minutes, Power control is by means of 2 router speed controls:
http://www.amazon.com/MLCS-9400-Standar ... 077&sr=8-1" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
I have these extra-low watt density elements waiting to be fitted to my keg:
http://www.amazon.com/Reliance-9000396- ... 880&sr=8-2" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
Preheat with lower element only at 5500w/240v for first drips in 30 to 40 minutes (or use both at 240v for a 15 - 20 minute warmup if power is available) then switch to both at 1375w/120v - each using the router controllers.
I have fairly good, inexpensive heat control. For better control the long-term plan is, eventually, to replace the router controllers with one MK-5500.
To return to topic:
While I favour tech/gadgets, for our purposes I'm not convinced that induction offers any significant advantages/savings/efficiencies over internal electric elements, where close to 100% of electrical energy is converted to useful/useable heat. Further I would suggest that heat control, especially with the MK-550 (or MK-1100) might well be significantly superior.
BUT..... I'm open to persuasion
LL
Having fun stillin' seriously..... This antique engine runs best on high octane.
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Re: induction heating ss keg...
What about tig welding a large disc of 1/2 - 3/4 inch steel/iron plate into the hollow bottom of your keg? The induction would (from my understanding of the description given) heat the steel which would heat the keg relatively effectively as the bottom skirt (rim) would encapsulate the heat and stop it escaping so much - Just my purely theoretical 2c
Where has all the rum gone? . . .
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Every new member should read this before doing anything else:
Re: induction heating ss keg...
thanx for all the replies...
looks like internal electric elements are the way to go for distilling indoors with a ss keg...
gotta look into if i can do the weld-less element install myself...
william...
looks like internal electric elements are the way to go for distilling indoors with a ss keg...
gotta look into if i can do the weld-less element install myself...
william...
tell me how hard it is to do... tell me how expensive it will be... just don't tell me what i can not do...
lead, follow, or get out of the way... ankle biters will be kicked...
•*´¯)¸.•*´¯)¤ª"˜¨¯¯¨˜"william..."˜¨¯¯¨˜"ª¤(¯`*•.¸(¯`*•
lead, follow, or get out of the way... ankle biters will be kicked...
•*´¯)¸.•*´¯)¤ª"˜¨¯¯¨˜"william..."˜¨¯¯¨˜"ª¤(¯`*•.¸(¯`*•
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Re: induction heating ss keg...
These work well:hackware wrote: ..... looks like internal electric elements are the way to go for distilling indoors with a ss keg...
gotta look into if i can do the weld-less element install myself...
william...
http://www.amazon.com/Universal-Water-H ... 166&sr=8-4" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
I used this (and olive oil as a lubricant) to cut the large holes:
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss? ... it&x=0&y=0" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
LL
Having fun stillin' seriously..... This antique engine runs best on high octane.
Re: induction heating ss keg...
cool...likkerluvver wrote:These work well:hackware wrote: ..... looks like internal electric elements are the way to go for distilling indoors with a ss keg...
gotta look into if i can do the weld-less element install myself...
william...
http://www.amazon.com/Universal-Water-H ... 166&sr=8-4" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
I used this (and olive oil as a lubricant) to cut the large holes:
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss? ... it&x=0&y=0" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
ummm... WHICH drill bit...? listed 9...
william...
tell me how hard it is to do... tell me how expensive it will be... just don't tell me what i can not do...
lead, follow, or get out of the way... ankle biters will be kicked...
•*´¯)¸.•*´¯)¤ª"˜¨¯¯¨˜"william..."˜¨¯¯¨˜"ª¤(¯`*•.¸(¯`*•
lead, follow, or get out of the way... ankle biters will be kicked...
•*´¯)¸.•*´¯)¤ª"˜¨¯¯¨˜"william..."˜¨¯¯¨˜"ª¤(¯`*•.¸(¯`*•
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Re: induction heating ss keg...
Oops
Correct link:
http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-Titanium-St ... 032&sr=8-1" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
Correct link:
http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-Titanium-St ... 032&sr=8-1" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
LL
Having fun stillin' seriously..... This antique engine runs best on high octane.
Re: induction heating ss keg...
thank you...
william...
william...
tell me how hard it is to do... tell me how expensive it will be... just don't tell me what i can not do...
lead, follow, or get out of the way... ankle biters will be kicked...
•*´¯)¸.•*´¯)¤ª"˜¨¯¯¨˜"william..."˜¨¯¯¨˜"ª¤(¯`*•.¸(¯`*•
lead, follow, or get out of the way... ankle biters will be kicked...
•*´¯)¸.•*´¯)¤ª"˜¨¯¯¨˜"william..."˜¨¯¯¨˜"ª¤(¯`*•.¸(¯`*•
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Re: induction heating ss keg...
This is the actual size bit (3/16" to 1-3/8" in 1/16" increments) I have:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000RP ... s=hi&psc=1" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
You might find it cheaper elsewhere.
A regular hole cutter might work OK too - kept WELL lubricated. Stainless is a PITA to drill.
I have bought 3/8" stainless bolts and food grade silicone o rings to hold the adapter in place. I also have food-grade silicone to help the outside gasket seal (because of the keg's curved surface). This will not be in contact with the wash. I'm working on a plan for a junction-box cover - the rubber plug covers I've fitted over my kettle's elements are not durable enough.
For my kettle (where I could easily get inside) I used a 1" NPT SS nut with 1" food-grade o-ring and Teflon/PTFE tape on the thread.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000RP ... s=hi&psc=1" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
You might find it cheaper elsewhere.
A regular hole cutter might work OK too - kept WELL lubricated. Stainless is a PITA to drill.
I have bought 3/8" stainless bolts and food grade silicone o rings to hold the adapter in place. I also have food-grade silicone to help the outside gasket seal (because of the keg's curved surface). This will not be in contact with the wash. I'm working on a plan for a junction-box cover - the rubber plug covers I've fitted over my kettle's elements are not durable enough.
For my kettle (where I could easily get inside) I used a 1" NPT SS nut with 1" food-grade o-ring and Teflon/PTFE tape on the thread.
LL
Having fun stillin' seriously..... This antique engine runs best on high octane.