First SS to SS solder + check out this weld spud

[humbledore]

These guys showed up today!

[Jimbo]

spud envy

[S-Cackalacky]

Let us know how it goes with the spud installation. Some pics would be nice.

S-C

By the way - Nice pic of the spuds. You could be a professional spud photog.

[humbledore]

Hah! yeah the sexy spuds of 2013 calendar will be released soon.

it was just on my desk, I shoved my keyboard out of the way. The back light is from my monitor.

[humbledore]

OK time to revive this thread. The update is after using the test keg for a couple of runs (yes, vinegar + sac run first) I realized that the bumps on a 1/4 barrel keg forced the heating element to be located almost halfway up the keg. Four gallons barely covered it, five gallons still didn't leave much to spare, depending on how much would distill out. I wanted to be able to do smaller runs, plus bigger runs. So I got a sweet 1/2 barrel decommissioned keg from the same guy I got the above 1/4 barrel. I decided to put two heating elements into it, if I upgrade to 240V later I may only use one. But for now I am on 110V so two elements it is. Today I took the drill to it, using bi-metal hole saws the size to fit the sexy spuds. 1.5" for the 1" spuds, and 1.375" for the .5" spud (drain port). Here are some shots.

keg1.jpg

Spud in place, I had to file the 1.5" hole down a bit to get it to set in there.

keg2.jpg

Edit: it really helps to have someone assist you to spray WD-40 or some other lubricant on the keg/hole saw while you are cutting it. it will start smoking and heating up right away. Keep it cool or it will become work hardened, make sure to use low RPMs. Slower is better for SS cutting. Anyway those are the tips I have picked up from others and it worked.

[humbledore]

I sanded both the keg and the spud, although the spud was 316 SS, hard as a rock. I'm using Harris Sta-Brite #8 solder and Stay-Clean flux as recommended by others (I think bellybutton did, for sure on the flux). I cut a ring of solder. In hindsight, I should have cut two rings, the flange is pretty wide on the spuds.

keg3.jpg

I heated it pretty much as bellybutton showed on his thread, first the keg area around the hold then the spud itself. I was using MAPP gas, in less than a minute the spud settled. OK not the cleanest solder but it was the first one.

keg4.jpg

[corene1]

Looks really good to me! The 8% solder and good flux really makes a difference doesn't it!

[humbledore]

Yes it sure does! The total time to do this today was about an hour to drill three holes (including removing the retaining clip and keg spear, and hunting down some tools). Then about 45 minutes or less of sanding, fluxing and soldering plus some clean up. The right materials and prep are key. It also helped me to do a practice run even if it wasn't with the best materials. And these spuds were great. Although one advantage of the locknut was straight pipe threads...you could screw the element all the way in. With these spuds you need to apply PTFE tape liberally before screwing it. But it works fine and IMO looks nicer than the locknut.

By the time I got to the third hole, the half-inch one, I added some extra solder on the sides where the curve of the keg would cause some gaps.

keg5.jpg

This was the cleanest solder joint I think.

keg6.jpg

And here's the keg after soldering. I have one heating element in there, one 1" plug, and a ball valve for draining. For my setup I didn't want the drain on the bottom just for moving and storing the keg. These fittings are all temporary, I am missing a couple of SS parts right now.

I would like to add that this thread is aimed at people that are not 100% handy, if I can do it you can do it.

[S-Cackalacky]

Nice work Humbledore. Thanks for posting pics of the process.

You mentioned earlier about installing 2 elements and maybe later converting to 240V. If you decide that you want to remove one of the elements, there are ss threaded plugs you can buy to fill in the hole. You would then have a spare element for another build.

S-C

Edit: I see that you're already onto the ss plugs. The completed job looks great.

[S-Cackalacky]

I would like to add that this thread is aimed at people that are not 100% handy, if I can do it you can do it.

That be me.

Just sayin',
S-C

[Halfbaked]

I like it Humbledore. Looks like a pro did it. I think you should leave both elements in one keg whether you use them or not. Quick heat up and if one goes bad in the middle of a run then you don't have to drain the keg to fix it. I looked at the bargainfittings and could not find them. Do you have a couple of links?

[bellybuster]

Those spuds are a really clean looking install. Really wish I had those instead of half couplings.
Looks great, a drain is next on my upgrade list. Don't need to buy parts but can't seem to buy the time.

[humbledore]

Thanks S-C, appreciate your help on the controller, without that this wouldn't run. Belly your solder thread was the inspiration. And halfbaked check the first post, I got those at brewhardware.com.

[humbledore]

And even though this is more of a keg soldering thread also thanks to Jimbo for his electric conversion thread, super helpful.

[jarheadshiner]

Excellent job humbledore! I just recently added a thumper and used the same solder and flux to join a 2" copper dip tube to the top of the keg. Drilled the hole, slid the tube thru and made a ring of solder that slipped over it and laid on the top of the keg. Solder filled the gap beautifully! Thanks to bellybuster for his vids too and for not busting your chops for referring to him as bellybutton a few times in this thread

[humbledore]

Oops! I'd like to blame spellcheck for that, but I think it was just my own mistake, sorry bellybuster.

[bellybuster]

Haha

[Jimbo]

Nice thread humblebutton good details and pics. I really do have spud envy. Those look perfect for this gig.

[Halfbaked]

Humbledore apparently you are causing all kinds of trouble. You have given lots of others spud envy. Your company has sold out of the 1 inch spuds thanks to you. You should get a commission check.

They are 1 in npt not nps. When you put your element in would you let us know if you have any trouble with it. Or at least in your Humble opinion.

[googe]

Nice job mate, I really like the look of them.spuds!. Gunna have to get some!.

[humbledore]

Halfbaked, are you sure? I just went to the site and put one in my cart, it didn't stop me. But I didn't check out. Hooked it all up today and ran a heat up test. For the elements, I just wrapped extra PTFE tape around them, worked fine with no leaks. Here they are in action, just starting to warm up:

double-element.jpg

So far so good!

HD

[humbledore]

Thanks googe! I'm not at your level of making stuff but I'm working on it!

[S-Cackalacky]

Humbledore, I know we've talked about this before, but how did you end up securing (enclosing) your wiring connections on your elements?

BTW - really nice job on your build so far. You've come a long way in a very short time. Man, I'm impressed.

S-C

[S-Cackalacky]

Humbledore apparently you are causing all kinds of trouble. You have given lots of others spud envy. Your company has sold out of the 1 inch spuds thanks to you. You should get a commission check.

They are 1 in npt not nps. When you put your element in would you let us know if you have any trouble with it. Or at least in your Humble opinion.

I was watching Fox Business News a couple days ago and they were talking about their surprise at the sharp spike in weld spud stocks.

Just sayin',
S-C

[humbledore]

Thanks S-C. I looked at Mr. P's heat shrink tubing, but as for now they are heavily wrapped in electrician's tape. They are just short pigtails with a male plug on the end, so I do not have a strain relief as of yet. The 12g wire is pretty hefty so I have not had a problem as of yet. Any suggestions on a good solution would be great too. I have seen a few where they took a PVC tube, fit it over the back of the element and filled it with silicone. I don't want to do that. There is also the theelectricbrewery.com solution, but man that guy spent some bucks to make those housings. That punch alone is probably $80.

http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/heating-elements" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

[S-Cackalacky]

Thanks S-C. I looked at Mr. P's heat shrink tubing, but as for now they are heavily wrapped in electrician's tape. They are just short pigtails with a male plug on the end, so I do not have a strain relief as of yet. The 12g wire is pretty hefty so I have not had a problem as of yet. Any suggestions on a good solution would be great too. I have seen a few where they took a PVC tube, fit it over the back of the element and filled it with silicone. I don't want to do that. There is also the theelectricbrewery.com solution, but man that guy spent some bucks to make those housings. That punch alone is probably $80.

http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/heating-elements" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

I did a kind of subset of the electric brewery build. At the time I needed a weldless solution for my ss stock pot boiler. I use the spacer washer and rubber o-ring (wrapped in PTFE tape) and the 1" ss locknut on the inside. I fashioned a ss washer from a blank faceplate with a tab coming out of one side for something to attach my ground wire to. The whole thing is wrapped in some self-bonding rubber electrical tape I found at Lowe's. For stress relief I fashioned a coil using a wire coat hanger, put this around the cable and end of the element and then wrapped the whole thing with the rubber tape. Looks a little sloppy, but works OK I guess. I'm looking for a cleaner solution.

S-C

[Halfbaked]

Thanks S-C. I looked at Mr. P's heat shrink tubing, but as for now they are heavily wrapped in electrician's tape. They are just short pigtails with a male plug on the end, so I do not have a strain relief as of yet. The 12g wire is pretty hefty so I have not had a problem as of yet. Any suggestions on a good solution would be great too. I have seen a few where they took a PVC tube, fit it over the back of the element and filled it with silicone. I don't want to do that. There is also the theelectricbrewery.com solution, but man that guy spent some bucks to make those housings. That punch alone is probably $80.

http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/heating-elements" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

YUP sold out. You can put them in your cart but check out and then you find out they are sold out. I didn't check anything but 1 inch. The only thing they have is 1/4 inch. I think I am going to buy welding spud stock. I have some inside info.

[midwest shinner]

I've gotta say, i appreciate the inspiration and knowledge. gained from this thread. I may have to give serious thought to going electric. then i wouldn't always have to still out in the frigid ass garage...

[humbledore]

Got that right, it's 10 below right now here. Nice and toasty indoors.

[Chroi]

great thread, very helpful.

A bit off topic, but I have a question regarding the heating elements:

Is there a particular brand that is favored due to having a non toxic threaded section that holds/secures the element, since it comes into contact with the mash?

All the ones I've seen locally are either bronze or galvanized steel.....what gives?

Would this be acceptable? Can't really tell if the material is stainless or not...looks iffy...can someone clarify if the threads on these are stainless?

http://www.amazon.com/Camco-Screw-In-Fo ... +ultra+low" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

http://www.amazon.com/Camco-02963-Screw ... d_sim_hi_4" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow