My name is Brian I am from Yorkshire and I have been reading this site for a few months and have gained a lot from it. I would really like to thank all those who have contributed and especially the creators of the Wiki and the associated information on Bokakobs.
As I said, I have got a lot out of this site so I thought it was time I put something back. Here goes. I hope you think it was worth the effort.
I have read a lot of ideas, seen a lot of ideas and had a lot of ideas myself. I believe that some of the ideas here are mine; your ideas may have sown the seeds in my mind, for that I thank you. If you think that I have copied or stolen your idea then let me know and I will gladly credit you with the original thought.
Due to the limited number of pictures that you can have in one post, I have split the build down into several pieces.
Introduction
I like making fruit flavoured vodka based liqueurs / infusions and wanted to find a still that would produce high quality, high % ABV, neutral alcohol.
I have done a lot of reading and looked at many designs available and decided that a reflux column was what I was looking for, with the facility to easily detune it for stripping runs with a removable column and a condenser sized to suit..
At the moment I am one of the statistics of the economic downturn. As a result I have time on my hands but not much disposable income, so I decided to build a still, doing as much of the work myself as possible.
I looked at the various column designs and opted for a Liquid Management (LM) type as there is a lot of information available for building and operating these devices. I considered cost, material availability, my capabilities and workshop facilities which are strictly limited to a hacksaw, round file, hand held drill and a blowlamp.
After weeks of reading, research and indecision I finally committed to build a 50mm (2") x 1200mm (4'-0") packed length, Copper, In-line, Dual Slant-Plate, Single Column with a double coil / cold finger condenser LM still ie a Bokakob – I have a few variations that I intend to incorporate, some of which are due to substitutions from American to UK availability, others are purely Bling.
Brian's Bokakob
Moderator: Site Moderator
Re: Brian's Bokakob
Welcome to HD Brian... Got any photos?
♦♦ Samohon ♦♦
Beginners should visit The New Distillers Reading Lounge and the Safety and Related Issues among others...
Beginners should visit The New Distillers Reading Lounge and the Safety and Related Issues among others...
Re: Brian's Bokakob
Welcome to HD, probably should have been posted in the Welcome Center but please post pictures of your still here!
Re: Brian's Bokakob
MOD EDIT:
I Agree, moved to the Welcome Center...
I Agree, moved to the Welcome Center...
♦♦ Samohon ♦♦
Beginners should visit The New Distillers Reading Lounge and the Safety and Related Issues among others...
Beginners should visit The New Distillers Reading Lounge and the Safety and Related Issues among others...
-
Bayou-Ruler
- Distiller
- Posts: 1703
- Joined: Sun Jun 06, 2010 4:50 pm
- Location: SW Louisiana
Re: Brian's Bokakob
welcome aboard
Bayou Ethanol
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YHB
Re: Brian's Bokakob
Condenser Coils
I had no experience of working with copper and the thought of winding condenser coils was to say the least - off-putting. I decided to make the coil first, using the logic that if I failed to make a coil then I had not wasted the effort or the cost of making the rest of the still that would be useless without a coil.
I am now addicted to making coils – it’s relatively easy, entertaining and satisfying. They are very straightforward and if you follow a few simple rules, turn out well and when you polish them up they are very impressive.
A lot of the instructions on the web and this forum are American and based on a double coil, wound in one go. Unfortunately they seem to use a size of copper pipe that I have not been able to locate locally. The nearest I could find was 1/4 “gas piping from caravan shops.
I eventually opted for standard 8mm copper tube, sold for central heating that I can buy at the local plumbers for £3.00 a meter. Unfortunately, I cannot get this larger / thicker material to bend to the shapes required for the inner portion of a double coil, so I had to use a different configuration.
It appears that 5m is more than enough to make a large condenser for strip and spirit runs, 2m for one to use for spirit runs only. – If you are like me and have never done this type of work before – buy a couple of meters extra to make a sample and get some confidence.
My first effort was a condenser using a half inch “Cold Finger” down the centre with a single coil that was formed around a piece of 20mm copper pipe.
To make the coil I packed the coils tube with salt – do this carefully - the only failure I had was when, a loosely packed piece of tube creased when I tried to bend it. Straighten the tube fill it with salt, shake it tap it and shake it some more. To fill a 4m piece of tube I did it from the upstairs window and spent 20minutes tapping every inch with the back of a spoon. When the salt does not settle anymore, hammer the ends flat to seal the tube.
Copper “work hardens”, the more you bend it the harder it gets. After you have bent it two or three times (straightening the tube off the roll counts as bending it at least once) it becomes just about impossible to bend again, unless you “anneal” it.
As soon as you feel the tube stiffening up – stop – heat the tube up with a blow torch until it glows a dull red then either let it cool slowly or quench it in cool water. I find it difficult to see the copper glowing red hot in the daylight so I tend to do this operation at night in the dark, and then it is easy.
In addition to never having formed a coil I had never done much soldering, I initially struggled with soldering the joint at the bottom of the cold finger, having to take it to pieces and re-solder the joint three times before I got it right. I then had a look at the problem and tried to find a way to eliminate the need for a joint altogether.
If I had to make another coil with a cold finger I would make one like this.
An 8mm coil with a 15mm cold finger over an 8mm centre tube and no joint between the two elements, this a short coil made for a friend. I used compression fitting because that is what he wanted I think soldered fittings would be nicer.
The coil and cold finger can be hooked up either in parallel or series.
To be continued next post
I had no experience of working with copper and the thought of winding condenser coils was to say the least - off-putting. I decided to make the coil first, using the logic that if I failed to make a coil then I had not wasted the effort or the cost of making the rest of the still that would be useless without a coil.
I am now addicted to making coils – it’s relatively easy, entertaining and satisfying. They are very straightforward and if you follow a few simple rules, turn out well and when you polish them up they are very impressive.
A lot of the instructions on the web and this forum are American and based on a double coil, wound in one go. Unfortunately they seem to use a size of copper pipe that I have not been able to locate locally. The nearest I could find was 1/4 “gas piping from caravan shops.
I eventually opted for standard 8mm copper tube, sold for central heating that I can buy at the local plumbers for £3.00 a meter. Unfortunately, I cannot get this larger / thicker material to bend to the shapes required for the inner portion of a double coil, so I had to use a different configuration.
It appears that 5m is more than enough to make a large condenser for strip and spirit runs, 2m for one to use for spirit runs only. – If you are like me and have never done this type of work before – buy a couple of meters extra to make a sample and get some confidence.
My first effort was a condenser using a half inch “Cold Finger” down the centre with a single coil that was formed around a piece of 20mm copper pipe.
Copper “work hardens”, the more you bend it the harder it gets. After you have bent it two or three times (straightening the tube off the roll counts as bending it at least once) it becomes just about impossible to bend again, unless you “anneal” it.
As soon as you feel the tube stiffening up – stop – heat the tube up with a blow torch until it glows a dull red then either let it cool slowly or quench it in cool water. I find it difficult to see the copper glowing red hot in the daylight so I tend to do this operation at night in the dark, and then it is easy.
In addition to never having formed a coil I had never done much soldering, I initially struggled with soldering the joint at the bottom of the cold finger, having to take it to pieces and re-solder the joint three times before I got it right. I then had a look at the problem and tried to find a way to eliminate the need for a joint altogether.
If I had to make another coil with a cold finger I would make one like this.
The coil and cold finger can be hooked up either in parallel or series.
To be continued next post
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frozenthunderbolt
- Distiller
- Posts: 1417
- Joined: Tue Apr 19, 2011 3:01 am
- Location: North island of New Zealand
Re: Brian's Bokakob
Nice work, cant wait to see your next post 
Where has all the rum gone? . . .
Every new member should read this before doing anything else:
Every new member should read this before doing anything else:
-
YHB
Re: Brian's Bokakob
Condenser Coils Part 2
Fitting my coil / cold finger in a 2” column left a gap of about 8mm that I originally intended filling with copper pan scrubbers but, as I said earlier, I now like making coils and it seemed that squeezing another coil in was a good excuse to make another one and the end result should making stripping runs a lot faster.
I intend to plumb the coils in parallel with a separate valved feed to each coil.
I am thinking that I will be having a 3kW element for start up and stripping Approx 1.2kw for spirit runs.
I am anticipating that for column mode I will only need to have the valve to the centre coil open, whereas when I use it in stripping mode, with additional heat input, I may need to open the valve to the outer coil as well. Time will tell which coil or coils to use for which operation, but with having the balancing valves all I have to do is close one, open the other and see which works best.
Fitting my coil / cold finger in a 2” column left a gap of about 8mm that I originally intended filling with copper pan scrubbers but, as I said earlier, I now like making coils and it seemed that squeezing another coil in was a good excuse to make another one and the end result should making stripping runs a lot faster.
I am thinking that I will be having a 3kW element for start up and stripping Approx 1.2kw for spirit runs.
I am anticipating that for column mode I will only need to have the valve to the centre coil open, whereas when I use it in stripping mode, with additional heat input, I may need to open the valve to the outer coil as well. Time will tell which coil or coils to use for which operation, but with having the balancing valves all I have to do is close one, open the other and see which works best.
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YHB
Re: Brian's Bokakob
Slant plates
I have seen many remarks in various forums and threads about the Slant Plates in a Boka being difficult to install. They are not that bad at all.
Firstly make a mitre block out of timber. The mitres should be at 30 degrees both horizontal and vertical. Once you have cut the first angle in the first piece of wood, use this as a template for all the other cuts in the wood, this will ensure that all cuts are parallel – it does not matter if they are not exactly 30 degrees but it looks nicer if they are all the same.
Buy a couple of metres of 2” plastic drain pipe and have a play using the mitre block to cut the slanted slots in that before you start on the expensive stuff.
Another Alternative ( and I think a lot better one )
After I had bought my piece of 2” copper pipe, I talked to a couple of winemakers, who have a combination of limited workshop resources and a lack of confidence with regard to their metal working capabilities but wanted to make a still (they live in a country where you cannot buy one).
I convinced them that I would be able to come up with a design that they could put together with an electric drill and a spanner and no soldering.
The design revolves round pre-made fittings, we have come to call them “cassettes” that the builder can either make themselves or have them supplied depending on capabilities or resources. I am supplying the cassettes to my winemaking friends.
Slant Plate cassette.
This allows the 2 slant plates of a Bok to be inserted into the column. Then the take off and thermometer points are bolted through the wall of the column into the cassette using standard 8mm compression fittings.
I think that:
1) Building the cassette was easier than slotting the column was going to be,
2) If it leaks what will happen? – condensate will run down the inside of the column for additional refluxing – is this an issue, I don’t anticipate it will be?
3) The cassette can be taken out for modification or be easily moved should the need arise.
4) It looks neater - all the gonky soldering is in the inside the ccolumn and can't be seen.
5) Can be used on any tube, one of the cassettes I am supplying is destined to be inserted into a mirror finished stainless tube. – I think this is brilliant and wish I had thought of it earlier, if I had, my still would now be stainless.
6) The cassettes fit in my mate’s suitcase for going through customs.
7) If it does not work what is the worse thing that can happen ? – I will have to cut two slots for the traditional plates.
I have seen many remarks in various forums and threads about the Slant Plates in a Boka being difficult to install. They are not that bad at all.
Firstly make a mitre block out of timber. The mitres should be at 30 degrees both horizontal and vertical. Once you have cut the first angle in the first piece of wood, use this as a template for all the other cuts in the wood, this will ensure that all cuts are parallel – it does not matter if they are not exactly 30 degrees but it looks nicer if they are all the same.
Buy a couple of metres of 2” plastic drain pipe and have a play using the mitre block to cut the slanted slots in that before you start on the expensive stuff.
Another Alternative ( and I think a lot better one )
After I had bought my piece of 2” copper pipe, I talked to a couple of winemakers, who have a combination of limited workshop resources and a lack of confidence with regard to their metal working capabilities but wanted to make a still (they live in a country where you cannot buy one).
I convinced them that I would be able to come up with a design that they could put together with an electric drill and a spanner and no soldering.
The design revolves round pre-made fittings, we have come to call them “cassettes” that the builder can either make themselves or have them supplied depending on capabilities or resources. I am supplying the cassettes to my winemaking friends.
Slant Plate cassette.
This allows the 2 slant plates of a Bok to be inserted into the column. Then the take off and thermometer points are bolted through the wall of the column into the cassette using standard 8mm compression fittings.
1) Building the cassette was easier than slotting the column was going to be,
2) If it leaks what will happen? – condensate will run down the inside of the column for additional refluxing – is this an issue, I don’t anticipate it will be?
3) The cassette can be taken out for modification or be easily moved should the need arise.
4) It looks neater - all the gonky soldering is in the inside the ccolumn and can't be seen.
5) Can be used on any tube, one of the cassettes I am supplying is destined to be inserted into a mirror finished stainless tube. – I think this is brilliant and wish I had thought of it earlier, if I had, my still would now be stainless.
6) The cassettes fit in my mate’s suitcase for going through customs.
7) If it does not work what is the worse thing that can happen ? – I will have to cut two slots for the traditional plates.
-
YHB
Re: Brian's Bokakob
Needle Valve
I started to look for a suitable needle valve and found many varieties, with some costing more than my budget for the entire project.
I remembered that at one stage during my research I had read an article in this Forum about the possibility of manufacturing a needle valve based on a "bicycle spoke". At the time I did not give the article much thought. However, after establishing how much needle valves cost, I now realized how this concept was more in keeping with my philosophy rather than simply throwing money at the problem. I found the thread again and gave it some more consideration.
Although I found the discussion about the valve I was unable to find any examples of a working model, They may be there but I could not find them, so I had to make one of my own.
I invested the sum of £1.00 in two stainless steel spokes complete with threaded nipples and dug out the box (that my wife can never understand why I keep) of "really useful bits" and started to see what I could come up with.
The following sketch indicates my first efforts at utilizing parts that I already had, as opposed to designing a set-up that was more efficient but required me to spend money on additional items.
Mark 1.
I have been told that one problem with the Slant Plates of a Bokakob is the size of the pool of distillate trapped between the lower slant plate and the needle valve and that this pool should be as small as possible to reduce contamination of the hearts with any tails that may be prematurely produced due to incorrect operation of the still in the later stages of the run. (that’s what I have been told and have not got the experience to contradict it – if you have， please let me know.
I had a play with the design and came up with this configuration which greatly reduces the amount of distillate trapped.
Re-visiting this set up, I am now thinking that the result of taking the condensate out of the still and back in again may result in the distillate cooling down too much and making it travel too far down the column before boiling again. – Anybody got any opinions?
The valves are easily changed so I will be able to try both and see which one works best.
I have tried the valves by pouring water down the column and they seem very controllable with a range of 1 drip every 20 seconds to a very thin continuous stream, it takes 14 turns of the turn-barrel to take the valve from fully closed to fully open.
Time will tell if they work in service but I am quietly confident that they will do the job and they are a lot cheaper than anything that you can buy off the shelf.
If anyone has experience of needle valves and has any comments or concerns about the designs then please feel free to comment.
I started to look for a suitable needle valve and found many varieties, with some costing more than my budget for the entire project.
I remembered that at one stage during my research I had read an article in this Forum about the possibility of manufacturing a needle valve based on a "bicycle spoke". At the time I did not give the article much thought. However, after establishing how much needle valves cost, I now realized how this concept was more in keeping with my philosophy rather than simply throwing money at the problem. I found the thread again and gave it some more consideration.
Although I found the discussion about the valve I was unable to find any examples of a working model, They may be there but I could not find them, so I had to make one of my own.
I invested the sum of £1.00 in two stainless steel spokes complete with threaded nipples and dug out the box (that my wife can never understand why I keep) of "really useful bits" and started to see what I could come up with.
The following sketch indicates my first efforts at utilizing parts that I already had, as opposed to designing a set-up that was more efficient but required me to spend money on additional items.
Mark 1.
I have been told that one problem with the Slant Plates of a Bokakob is the size of the pool of distillate trapped between the lower slant plate and the needle valve and that this pool should be as small as possible to reduce contamination of the hearts with any tails that may be prematurely produced due to incorrect operation of the still in the later stages of the run. (that’s what I have been told and have not got the experience to contradict it – if you have， please let me know.
I had a play with the design and came up with this configuration which greatly reduces the amount of distillate trapped.
The valves are easily changed so I will be able to try both and see which one works best.
I have tried the valves by pouring water down the column and they seem very controllable with a range of 1 drip every 20 seconds to a very thin continuous stream, it takes 14 turns of the turn-barrel to take the valve from fully closed to fully open.
Time will tell if they work in service but I am quietly confident that they will do the job and they are a lot cheaper than anything that you can buy off the shelf.
If anyone has experience of needle valves and has any comments or concerns about the designs then please feel free to comment.
-
YHB
Re: Brian's Bokakob
Boiler Connector
My next item on my build program was a 2" boiler connection.
I have looked at 2” compression fitting tank connectors, I know many people have used them and I am sure they are happy with them, but:
a) In my opinion they do not look as though they will give much lateral support to the column.
b) I would have to buy it.
c) I would also have to buy some form of wrench(es) to install it
d) It is a big chunk of Brass, something that people keep telling me I should avoid.
So it seemed logical that I should make one in copper.
I do not have a workshop access to lathes, drill presses and the like or the equipment for silver soldering, I needed a build that could be made with my hacksaw, hand drill and rat-tail file, so I came up with this one.
The material all came from a 2 foot length of 2” pipe, that I split and flattened. The flange (4" Diameter) is made up of 4 ply of copper and the backing ring 2 ply. Still some cleaning up to do – but as I said, I have lots of time.
Making the bits was relatively straight forward - soldering them was a bit of a learning experience.
Apparently, what I should have done was use solder that had different melting points for the different joints. I used the same soft solder for all the joints and it took a few attempts to get it to this state. A few times I was trying to make the last joint when all the previous joints melted and the whole thing collapsed.
I find that working with Copper and solder is very forgiving, make a mistake, heat it up wipe off the old solder and start again - I would say to anyone that would like to have a go at making something in Copper "give it a go" - this is my first copper project
My next item on my build program was a 2" boiler connection.
I have looked at 2” compression fitting tank connectors, I know many people have used them and I am sure they are happy with them, but:
a) In my opinion they do not look as though they will give much lateral support to the column.
b) I would have to buy it.
c) I would also have to buy some form of wrench(es) to install it
d) It is a big chunk of Brass, something that people keep telling me I should avoid.
So it seemed logical that I should make one in copper.
I do not have a workshop access to lathes, drill presses and the like or the equipment for silver soldering, I needed a build that could be made with my hacksaw, hand drill and rat-tail file, so I came up with this one.
The material all came from a 2 foot length of 2” pipe, that I split and flattened. The flange (4" Diameter) is made up of 4 ply of copper and the backing ring 2 ply. Still some cleaning up to do – but as I said, I have lots of time.
- tank conn.jpg (9.91 KiB) Viewed 13075 times
Making the bits was relatively straight forward - soldering them was a bit of a learning experience.
Apparently, what I should have done was use solder that had different melting points for the different joints. I used the same soft solder for all the joints and it took a few attempts to get it to this state. A few times I was trying to make the last joint when all the previous joints melted and the whole thing collapsed.
I find that working with Copper and solder is very forgiving, make a mistake, heat it up wipe off the old solder and start again - I would say to anyone that would like to have a go at making something in Copper "give it a go" - this is my first copper project
-
YHB
Re: Brian's Bokakob
Slip JointsHaving made the tank connector, I now needed to connect the connector to the column.
There are a few off the shelf solutions. If you are looking for a permanent solution then the easiest way would be a standard 54mm Yorkshire type soldered connector these vary between £15 and £20 per joint. I want to be able to remove a 1 meter section from the length of the column to detune it for stripping and maybe pot-stilling in the future, for this I need two demountable connectors. The home distillation fraternity seem to have adopted the cloverleaf clamps and easy flanges as standard, these work out at about 60 USD per joint – carrying on with my philosophy of why buy it if you can build it, I opted to make a couple of slip joints – the material is all from 54mm stock tube and it takes about 16” (400mmm) to make one joint – at today’s prices that works out at £7.50 a joint.
The commercial clamps should guarantee a leak-proof joint，my slip joints are a bit of an unknown factor but if I was a gambling man I would bet that these joints will be just as leak free, time will tell.
The first Sketches are something I knocked up for discussion purposes with a couple of friends.
These are obviously pictures of the first joint - the second one looks neater.
Thats all for now add more soon
There are a few off the shelf solutions. If you are looking for a permanent solution then the easiest way would be a standard 54mm Yorkshire type soldered connector these vary between £15 and £20 per joint. I want to be able to remove a 1 meter section from the length of the column to detune it for stripping and maybe pot-stilling in the future, for this I need two demountable connectors. The home distillation fraternity seem to have adopted the cloverleaf clamps and easy flanges as standard, these work out at about 60 USD per joint – carrying on with my philosophy of why buy it if you can build it, I opted to make a couple of slip joints – the material is all from 54mm stock tube and it takes about 16” (400mmm) to make one joint – at today’s prices that works out at £7.50 a joint.
The commercial clamps should guarantee a leak-proof joint，my slip joints are a bit of an unknown factor but if I was a gambling man I would bet that these joints will be just as leak free, time will tell.
The first Sketches are something I knocked up for discussion purposes with a couple of friends.
These are obviously pictures of the first joint - the second one looks neater.
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frozenthunderbolt
- Distiller
- Posts: 1417
- Joined: Tue Apr 19, 2011 3:01 am
- Location: North island of New Zealand
Re: Brian's Bokakob
Now that is an inspiration Brian, if you find you are having a problem with cooling at your valve it should be a simple matter to insulate it, ideally along with the rest of the column up to just under the take off point
Where has all the rum gone? . . .
Every new member should read this before doing anything else:
Every new member should read this before doing anything else:
Re: Brian's Bokakob
yes nice job
Re: Brian's Bokakob
YHB wrote:Slant plates
This allows the 2 slant plates of a Bok to be inserted into the column. Then the take off and thermometer points are bolted through the wall of the column into the cassette using standard 8mm compression fittings.
GJ!
But there is one question.
I think that this fitting from a brass. This fitting will touch hot spirit. It isn't good.
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YHB
Re: Brian's Bokakob
Well spotted - I am currently experimenting with hard copper plating the brass fittings - if this fails then my current fall back option is to use the same fitting but made from stainless steel, these are readily available but cost 15 pounds each.
Re: Brian's Bokakob
YHB wrote: cost 15 pounds each.
It is very expensive!
Simply and low-cost to cover this fitting with tin (Stannum; Sn).
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Old MacDonald
- Novice
- Posts: 53
- Joined: Sat Dec 24, 2011 7:06 pm
- Location: ...not in this country you can't!
Re: Brian's Bokakob
Hi Brian,
Greetings from elsewhere in God's Own County
You have certainly acquired some skills... Mr Brunel would be proud of that boiler connection!
If it helps at all, here are some of the cheapest suppliers I have found so far...
BES ...for just about everything.
JTM ...for 1m/1.5m lengths of pipe.
Trading Depot
I'll be following your thread with interest!
ATB,
Mac
Greetings from elsewhere in God's Own County
You have certainly acquired some skills... Mr Brunel would be proud of that boiler connection!
If it helps at all, here are some of the cheapest suppliers I have found so far...
BES ...for just about everything.
JTM ...for 1m/1.5m lengths of pipe.
Trading Depot
I'll be following your thread with interest!
ATB,
Mac
-
YHB
Re: Brian's Bokakob
mjstorm wrote:It is very expensive!
Simply and low-cost to cover this fitting with tin (Stannum; Sn).
That raises a question that keeps crossing my mind, which is "Where is Tin on the approved / allowed list ? " all I ever see mentioned are Copper and Stainless.
Re: Brian's Bokakob
A lot of home made copper stills are put together with tin based low temp solder. My understanding is that this is acceptable but not optimal.YHB wrote:mjstorm wrote:It is very expensive!
Simply and low-cost to cover this fitting with tin (Stannum; Sn).
That raises a question that keeps crossing my mind, which is "Where is Tin on the approved / allowed list ? " all I ever see mentioned are Copper and Stainless.
The way we deal with this in general is that we have almost mind boggling difficulty clearing up the confusion between low temp "sweat" soldering and high temp "brazing" soldering and eventually give up and pretend that solder isn't part of the structure in contact with spirit or vapor and dont get too bent out of shape about it as long as it's lead free.
Tin probably isn't going to poison anyone but I expect it could make things taste funny. I would not count tinning a large section of the inside of your rig as a good solution.
There's a long standing bit of lore that if you "pickle" your brass with a soak in vinegar and hydrogen peroxide it will dissolve and remove any surface lead and make the fitting safe to use in your still. I know quite a few people accept this lore as canon and dont seem to be going mad from lead poisoning but as far as I know nobody has tested the effectiveness of this technique with surface lead test strips.
From the look of your work though I'd be very surprised if you aren't able to fabricate any part you need from acceptable materials... you have some skills.
"a woman who drives you to drink is hard to find, most of them will make you drive yourself."
anon--
anon--
-
YHB
Re: Brian's Bokakob
Thanks,
I raised the point because I have been looking at buying some new cooking pans and was attracted to the copper ones. There they made a statement something like - Copper is dangerous for your health and that is why we coat the inner surfaces with Tin.
I think I will work on the principle that the Alcohol is more dangerous than either the Copper or Tin dissolved in it. So if I really wanted to be safe I would ......................... Naw!!! that is not an option.
I raised the point because I have been looking at buying some new cooking pans and was attracted to the copper ones. There they made a statement something like - Copper is dangerous for your health and that is why we coat the inner surfaces with Tin.
I think I will work on the principle that the Alcohol is more dangerous than either the Copper or Tin dissolved in it. So if I really wanted to be safe I would ......................... Naw!!! that is not an option.
Re: Brian's Bokakob
Certainly, we will fast die of a cirrhosis from alcohol than from a poisoning with tin or copper
In the literature on distillation of grape spirit such norm is specified:
Copper - to 8 mg on 1000 ml(cm3)
Tin - to 5 mg on 1000 ml(cm3) of waterless spirit
In the literature on distillation of grape spirit such norm is specified:
Copper - to 8 mg on 1000 ml(cm3)
Tin - to 5 mg on 1000 ml(cm3) of waterless spirit
Last edited by mjstorm on Sun Jan 08, 2012 12:10 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Re: Brian's Bokakob
YHB wrote:Thanks,
I raised the point because I have been looking at buying some new cooking pans and was attracted to the copper ones. There they made a statement something like - Copper is dangerous for your health and that is why we coat the inner surfaces with Tin.
I think I will work on the principle that the Alcohol is more dangerous than either the Copper or Tin dissolved in it. So if I really wanted to be safe I would ......................... Naw!!! that is not an option.
No this is an old old tired argument for using dangerous materials and is faulty logic and a terrible message for the hobby.mjstorm wrote:Certainly, we will fast die of a cirrhosis from alcohol than from a poisoning with tin or copper
Alcohol is proven safe and even beneficial in moderate use... copper is not a safe cooking medium for foods and you should never drink or eat anything that is stained or tinted green from copper.
copper has no such interaction with alcohol and in fact strips out sulfer based impurities in contact with vapor and liquid etoh.
We do not as a community cotton to the "well alcohol is poison anyway so I might as well use X" theory of materials risk assessment. That way lies madness... (also that way lies having your posts deleted and being placed on read only)
Remember, no matter how much or how little you know about this stuff you have a responsibility to be very clear about best practices for all the people who will come later and search the board and read what you posted.
"a woman who drives you to drink is hard to find, most of them will make you drive yourself."
anon--
anon--
Re: Brian's Bokakob
It agree, the joke was not so successful.
But using stainless steel and even glass in the columns we will receive their impurity in spirit.
Together with spirit they will get to our organism. Surplus
Iron, chrome or silicon too can damage to us, is not it?
Thus the most innocuous column is made of wood?
But using stainless steel and even glass in the columns we will receive their impurity in spirit.
Together with spirit they will get to our organism. Surplus
Iron, chrome or silicon too can damage to us, is not it?
Thus the most innocuous column is made of wood?
Re: Brian's Bokakob
There was a discussion here years ago about free arsenic in borosilicate lab glass... if I'm not mistaken the upshot was that the claim was groundless. If anything leaches out of glass it does not do so at levels that would cause alarm even to staunch believers in homeopathy.mjstorm wrote:It agree, the joke was not so successful.
But using stainless steel and even glass in the columns we will receive their impurity in spirit.
Together with spirit they will get to our organism. Surplus
Iron, chrome or silicon too can damage to us, is not it?
Thus the most innocuous column is made of wood?
People can taste iron at way below toxic levels... so that's not really a worry. I don't know about chrome... but I suspect stainless steel's rep as a safe material is well founded and deserved.
I realize that you are probably trying to be funny, but please consider the fact that you might confuse people.
"a woman who drives you to drink is hard to find, most of them will make you drive yourself."
anon--
anon--
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YHB
Re: Brian's Bokakob
I stand repremanded 
- my "Joke" was not very funny and out of place. Not that you need my permission but, please feel free to delete the offending posts.
Getting back to the important stuff - just started the Gin Basket, if I can convince my Mum to part with her tea strainer should have some pictures next week.
- my "Joke" was not very funny and out of place. Not that you need my permission but, please feel free to delete the offending posts.Getting back to the important stuff - just started the Gin Basket, if I can convince my Mum to part with her tea strainer should have some pictures next week.
Re: Brian's Bokakob
YHB wrote:I stand repremanded
Getting back to the important stuff - just started the Gin Basket, if I can convince my Mum to part with her tea strainer should have some pictures next week.
Hey, I just want to chime in with everyone else here to say that your work is really outstanding.
"a woman who drives you to drink is hard to find, most of them will make you drive yourself."
anon--
anon--
Re: Brian's Bokakob
Yes me too, Brian you have really come up with some incredibly creative ideas and executed them beautifully. 
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Uncle Lozza
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- Joined: Mon Feb 27, 2012 2:31 am
- Location: North Lincolnshire, U.K.
Re: Brian's Bokakob
Nice work Brian, i am in the middle of trying to make a Boka and have just about got all the copper together, Looking at your rig has got me thinking of some modifications to mine before the soldering begins. Well done Yorkie, you are an inspiration!