Home Distiller

Thanks for sharing the recipe! I picked up all of the ingredients today, I can't wait to try it out! I have to clean my still out real well before I run this mash though. Definitely excited, seems like everyone loves it!

Pita wrote:Looking good! The water in/out nipples - were those hard to attach? Do they screw in or did you solder? It's very clean looking.

Pita

Anyone?

buy a 1.5" end cap and a .5" end cap, solder them together then drill a few holes. Something like this? 1.5" cap -------| .5" cap ||--- ||--- -------| I know that someone used a similar idea as a column to lid attachment. Hm. That's a creative idea. I found a suitable solution e...

Are the two mating surfaces of your union copper? If so, you don't need to treat the nut (Which may be bronze and not brass) Yea, they are. I thought they were all like that, I guess not. I was kinda wondering why you guys were making such a stink about it :lol: Ive got all the parts for my pot sti...

I have what was called a copper union. the nut is what looks to be brass. When I put the brass nut in the solution, it starts to turn blue immediately. So I am confused. Since if it turns blue that means the copper is desolving..and the lead is exposed. So then do I just keep soaking it (in new batc...

I understand how to step down to the desired diameter. However, it seems needlessly long, thus why I was looking into the practicality of shortening the reducers by chopping off the part that fits on the larger diameter of the two (like my picture). I would need to buy 1" for the step down othe...

Hmmm...that's a good point! I could probably do with the circular saw, it's just mighty awkward to use on something that small. It's what I used to cut all of my pipe to size, so it should work. Would using only the reducing part of the reducers and soldering them in place work and be sturdy enough?...

Hey guys. I just put out an order for 3' of 1 1/2" copper for my column. I visited a couple stores to find reducing tees for that size, but the only one I could find was all 1 1/2" openings. Could I buy some reducers an grind off the larger part on them and solder em all together and be da...

instead of wasting a piece of my expensive 2 inch pipe and sacrificing a few extra inches of column height, i got one of the 2" coupling fittings and cut that in half, worked great and only like a dollar How I wish I lived somewhere that I could buy a 2" copper fitting for one of your dol...

I already have my liebig half together. I am, however, positioning the union in such a way that I'll be able to run a thumper into a worm/bucket condenser in the future if I ever feel like it. Any suggestions for column length? Is the 1 1/2" column a good size or would I be just as good with a ...

........My sugar wash is still fermenting...It's starting to confuse me. It's room temp this time though, so that is probably why. Smells very alcoholic. For my pot still, I have my 3' liebig mocked w/o water in and outs. I got a nice looking union and a 45*. I'll have the 1 1/2" column, T and ...

Oaty wrote:A ton might take the whole weekend. Don't ya think?

Then we could have a homedistiller.org BBQ and see if we can't make it disappear just as fast!

Eaarlier you had mentioned getting cracked corn for $10 for 10 lbs. Find a Feed Store. You should be able to get 50 Lbs. for under $10. For instructions on winding a coil read this Sticky http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=6140 . Don't wind without it. Haha, I didn't think anyon...

Im curious, you've mentioned using a water-heater element internal to you boiler. What's the best way to install something like that (especially given your lack of welding equipment)? Also, once its physically installed, how do you setup power to it - in such a way as you can regulate temperature (...

Looking good! The water in/out nipples - were those hard to attach? Do they screw in or did you solder? It's very clean looking.

Pita

I posted this in one of my previous posts, but since I was the last reply prior, I doubt anyone would notice there's a new post (I sure wouldn't!). It's better suited in here anyways. Pretty much a direct quote. What do you guys think? http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v213/pitabread112/PtStl/sidevi...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v213/pitabread112/PtStl/sideviewstilltransparent.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v213/pitabread112/PtStl/sideviewstill.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v213/pitabread112/PtStl/transparentstill.jpg I'm going to use Hawke's suggestion on the sizing. Everyt...

I finally found a place that I can buy by the foot for tubing. :shock: They would have to order it, but they'll still sell it to me by the foot. It was 6 or 8 bucks a foot for 1 1/2" pipe. I have two questions regarding that - Which class do I want? I think they said the could get L or M. Also,...

at least this one will actually pay for itself - and very fast. :twisted: ) Yeah good luck with that :roll: Agreed, the only ones who will end up ahead are youre friends and family who no longer have to buy piss. You will end up spending more and more on your little 'hobby' in search of perfection ...

So, would I be able to do a single coil by bending 1/4" tubing around a 3/4" pipe? Any specific reason that you should use salt instead of anything else? Hopefully I don't need any expensive equipment as I am a poor med student! :cry: I should really set up my scanner so I can post up some...

Hawke wrote:Doing a double coil for the 1 1/2" column does take some patience. 1/4" tubing will need to be salted to make that tight of a coil.

hmm...would I need a mandrel to bend that? Am I better off with a cold finger? Or a coil/coldfinger hybrid?

Use a file, drill or moto-tool to grind out the stops. slide the 1/2" inside the 3/4" then slide the reducing T's over each end. Use a 45* ell and a union between the liebeg and column. You can use 1 1/2" to make a Bokakob 'mini' or a VM for that matter. Wow, I really should have tho...

With a 20qt I would go 1 1/2" into 1/2" use about 3 feet of 1/2" inside 3/4" for the liebeg. If they have them, use 3/4x1/2x1/2 T's to build the condenser. If not, use 3/4x1/2x3/4 T's with a 3/4x1/2 reducer on each end. Add a 1/2" union and 45* bend at the top of the Liebeg...

A pot still is the cheapest to make, add a reflux column when you have more cash. The only thing to remember is that you will use the same boiler for both so make sure you buy the biggest and best you can afford. Also the column connection will be the same. Cheers. You're right, pot stills are defi...

Well guys, money that was supposed to make itself to me is yet to show, so I've yet to make me a still :evil: I did make myself a sugar wash last night though. I don't know how well it will work. I basically took 3 gallons of water, 4lbs of sugar (someone stole a lb from me :( ) heated it up slightl...

They're compression fittings; at least that's what they're called in England (I'm pretty sure it's the same in Canada and the US). Basically you undo one end, slide it onto the tubing and then screw it back together and crank it really tight. The tubing gets squished together with the fitting perma...

Hey man, great still. I have a question about the connectors that you have. I went to home depot and there was only one kind of connector that was solderless, the "Shark Bite" connectors that are only available from 1/2" and up. What kind of connectors are those? They look soldered; a...

punkin wrote:Where abouts in the world are you?

I'm in the US.

I made mine out of this: http://www.kommercialkitchens.com/Optio-38-Qt-Stock-Pot-with-Cover.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow This is an excellent stainless stockpot for a boiler and it is as cheap as it's going to get for a nice sturdy boiler. It...

I made mine out of this: http://www.kommercialkitchens.com/Optio-38-Qt-Stock-Pot-with-Cover.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow This is an excellent stainless stockpot for a boiler and it is as cheap as it's going to get for a nice sturdy boiler. It...