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would annealing after hammering flat help? it would be softer making it easier to drill

i want a flute, lol so many talented ppl here

i was lookin to make a copper pot when i started lookin into this. I also looked at flashing but its soft. I was going to build a couple rollers to run it through to work harden it some. I found a cheap keg to use instead though. i still look at this from time to time. could be nice to make cone red...

Prairiepiss wrote:

BentJar wrote:I beleive he said stream .....

Your right my fault. My apologies.

i read steam also lol

For a true pot still the size of the pot column is not overly important as has been discussed many times... The smallest restriction in the vapor circuit is the most crucial point because that is where the vapor speed will be the greatest... As the vapor collapses it should help to pull the vapor i...

for 190 proof your gonna need to go with a reflux system. Pots will get you in the 120-160 proof range.

on controlling the temperature i am planning on putting 1 thermometer in the mash and 1 measuring the vapor from my studies you cant control the temps, there are to many variables. It will boil at the temp it boils at. Any confirmations that it wont be the end of the world if it cycles on and off a...

Very similar but at the top of the column it is usually called a dephlagmater and I would guess 6-8" would knock down any vapors you throw at it during reflux. I have a 4" column with a 6" long dephlagmater with 5 holes 3/4" and can get 100% reflux. You will want a longer produc...

disregard my post i thought you were talking about a pot still whats the shotgun going on top of ? a VM a LM or ? how tall is the reflux column etc ? planning a 3" boka, 3' tube for packing. want to add 1 or 2 perf plates below the packing. Trying to make it modular so it can be used in differ...

sambedded wrote:

buckwild1 wrote:would i have a problem with vapor and condensation on the top of a column?

what is your heat source wattage?

going with gas.
just wondering if the condensate will close off the tubes to much as it rolls back down during reflux

Right now the plan is a 2"x2' shot gun condenser for the top of a column and as a product condenser on a pot. Was planning on 7 3/8" ID tubes. With the length and I.D. of the tubes, would i have a problem with vapor and condensation on the top of a column?
hope this Q makes since to ya.

anyone know how to login here from a tablet? got a kindle fire and it wont let me login to the forums

Restarting mid-run has been covered as research would have proven... :idea: I quit reading the novice section to try to get away from all the repeated Qs and lack of reading/research. I know i did it too when beginning, but now I thank you for forcing me to read and research and learn. Now they hav...

yeah thats where i went, I was looking for something saying food grade. Or at least what they were made of other than just "Polyethylene Drums
All drums and covers are made of FDA-compliant resins"

SanDiegoShiner wrote:Just as an FYI, I buy brand new food grade barrels from McMaster Carr online. They show up the next day. They are cheap. 15 gallon $40. 30 gallon $60. Brand new.

They have a lot of useful supplies and parts also.

I must be using the wrong search terms for finding them at McMasters. got a link?

all we used to do with them was rinse them out and give them away. My thoughts are the hypochlorite could be. Its just a strong chlorine. maybe rinsing and airing it out would be fine. Was just hoping someone had tried these before, other than horse troughs The hydroxide is a strong base. caustic so...

i read it wrong on mcmaster cars site, my bad

can barrels that contained sodium hypochlorite or sodium hydroxide be cleaned out well enough to be used for fermenting? I have seen some use them for watering troughs for their horses after a good washing. But im not sure if it will work.

c&c is where the pipe slips into both ends of the fitting. Street or FTG has 1 end that the pipe slips into and 1 end that slips into the pipe

try using just the coals from a fire rather than the flame from the wood. Should be more consistent heating. It will still need to be raked forward and back to get the heat you need.

heres another one. I've been reading here a lot. Was thinking about a thumper myself, now not so much.
http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopi ... it=thumper

heres one good read on thumpers. There is another one better. I keep looking for but cant seem to find it
http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopi ... ge+thumper

flour paste.

Stainless wrote: use flour paste as a gasket, 2 shot glasses of flour ,,,,little bit water, mix it till quite stiff,

Stainless

think its time for me to take a break away from here

if you tried a quick search you would find a multitude of posts for this exact same question. all answered very well

good reads there

been thinking on this some. The area I said to solder, it isn't soldered for structural support. If you angled the condenser and just soldered through the opening of the tee it would fill the small cavity and slope the solder. basically making it a 90.

IDK why you would even want to. part of the hobby is the tastes you will get from the different ferments you make. For me I look forward to graduating to all grain ferments, as I think this is how its meant to be.....

bellybuster wrote:Allot of folks go runnin with their tail between their legs after what they call here "tough love".

my momma taught me tough love. what they show here is pretty mild to what i grew up with. And it just shows they care and have a lot of passion for what they do

I see your pain Rad, been reading almost every new post for weeks.