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you could pressurize the keg with a co2 bulb keg charger and push the liquid out
that would also seal up the keg like when using with beer.

or the SS jerry is a great idea

so quick question...do you guys pitch the first 100ml of your birdwatchers as well?? just wondering if I should pitch 50ml or just go 100ml on a 6.5 gal run... i chuck about 100ml of fores from every 45L boil up at least then i collect in small amounts at the beginning say 200ml lots X 5 then as i ...

depending on your keg this idea is free and comes with the keg
it's an A type keg and australian 50mm tube (usa tube is diff ID or OD, but not sure)

a lot longer but you will have WAY more stock in the cupboard

if you take the packing out you then dont have to clean it after stripping
stripping can really stank it up ....

and it would be a good chance to clean it anyway from normal runs

well thats my opinion

It is a VM column double coil in the top with a collection plate at the arm. Ball valve on the arm leading out (also a condenser on the arm). The unit was built by Rainier Distillers, this bit might be an issue, why does VM have a collection plate ? or does it have a LM point as well to pull off he...

I should have mentioned I'm in Australia. I found a diagram on another site for Australian wires but it's for wiring up the parts from scratch, I'm hoping it's usable. http://www.stilldragon.org/uploads/FileUpload/95/fed0f51d6c79bb63f6721bd9058810.jpg I did find some power controllers kits but don'...

I don't know about you fellas, but I can't find a keg for less than $100 around here. I spent about $45 on my 20Q stock pot. It has an encapsulated bottom and is a sturdy gauge as well. Don't skimp on the build quality. but a keg is going to save you in build costs and time... + they are so easy to...

it will work but you will likely need some sort of heat control as well i find it does not take much heat to flood a 2" deflag / shotgun condenser when used like your suggesting if you made it a little more modular you could swap the position of the shotgun and turn you CM into a VM pretty easy

throw it away and start a fresh

it's likley to be laced with flux and other muck.....

start looking for a keg as well...

you cannot stablise temps on a strip run as it pretty much running like a pot still next :) have you insulated the column ? and yes going to 2" is better.... and a KEG i dont bother controlling "cooling" run enough water to knock down all vapour + some and then focus on the output adj...

the valve controls the outflow you need to work out what rate off outflow is best for the still (by running it under diff valve settings and heat settings etc) you then open the vlave to X rate and you get X % product this creates a reflux ratio = for every X in output X goes back down the column as...

use Microsoft picture manager to open the pic
select edit
then select resize pic
make it "web large" save it (.jpg)
up load it (or host it on photobucket etc and ad the link)

= we see your pics

I personally think the easy flange is to much work and prefer just a simple hammered flange. +1 with a triclover seal (or home made one) they work great drill a 50mm hole in some hard wood anneal your pipe 3.jpg work around the pipe slowly 5.jpg once your here flatten it right out 7.jpg and you don...

you could use the plastic barrel and make a herms set up

have a google of ( herms beer )
the idea is to run the liquid from the mash and pump it through a coil immersed in heated hot liquid and back to the mash to keep the mash temp stable

it's too late.....

you could spend say $25 on carbon / filters etc or just do some birdwatchers etc and forget the turbo

persoanlly i would "dump" it unless you already have a filter otherwise not worth the expense

Maheel, have you ever had a wash get infected? . i have never EVER had a BW get infected :) had one get a little funky after i took 40L out of the 80L barrel and some fruit flies made it in there... but it was not "infected" just a bit funky to check the FG i just lift the lid and "d...

see this thread it might give you some ideas

http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopi ... 50&t=31681

but.....
a tri-clamp is like $10

those old stills you used were likley made with lead solder... and i would not worry to much about silicon if your drinking the liquor made....

i dont bother with airlocks and bubblers or a sealing lid.... about 3 hours after picthing the yeast i lift the lid and have a look if there is a foam in there it's working i drop the lid back on and leave it alone for a few weeks if nothing has happend i have a look after a couple more hours... the...

imo the join from the coil to the coldfinger is a PITA.... i hate making them

i reckon a double wound coil is so much easier to make

for 2" column i use a keg spear for the inner mandrel and 3 bits of paper for the outer mandrel

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/140730716566 ... 1423.l2649" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

there you go $8

it's also very easy to use 3/4 over 1/2 a you can use 1/2-1/2-3/4 tee's (file or drill out the end to pass the 1/2 through)

and there so many standard fittings for these sizes you can attach it to anything

i think 1/4 is way to small a take off and will really be restive on vapour flow

i found the slow and steady approach worked well and it would not rub off.

try multiple light plating sessions and good cleaning between coats

imo it's not a one quick thick coat trick...

heres a easy way to do a shotgun no ferrules needed as the ends of the shotgun become the ferrules it happily knocks down 3600w (240v) making 6L -8L an hour if your end plates are thin copper then you might need to wrap a ferrule gasket in teflon tape to make it a little bigger if it's "thick&q...

your right Goose eye a hydro's not the only way but it's one of the easiest i reckon i check my wash a couple of times in the 1st few days by just looking in and listening if it's fizzing like lemonade sounds i no its working then normally i just wait 3 weeks or more till it's very clear then i know...

could you try it with a test tube of 40% in that demi in the middle and then when you pull a vacuum you will also visually see it boil and decrease ? it would be like building a boat in a bottle but :mrgreen: edit: maybe hang it from the bung.... i thought it would take a lot more vacuum than you ha...

some washes will ferment without making any sort of cap

buy a hydrometer

here is a pic of what i build and they make 800-1000ml of 95% per hour no drama thats a fairly fast trickle that i describe as a "just broken stream" the product is better in the 700-800ph range as you can see it's nearly the same as yours but mine are a 1" takeoff and valve then into...

if your getting vapor out the top you either have WAY to much heat or not enough cooling length or liquid do you have any scubber in the coil it will help knock down vapor ? your going to need a bigger water tank for a proper run i reckon two good links http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f...

how many lb / kg's of vacumme do you need for it to boil at 20"c

i dont think you could do it by hand ? (even if you could build it and make it work)