Home Distiller

Looks great!

I really don’t know. I would think it has a high chance of plugging.

Just curious is that a Clausen lathe. Looks to be a 1400 series.

I think the high rpm heats the hard copper enough to help anneal it. That seems to help the swaging process.

I have a set like Bushman posted that goes up to 7/8. Love it. works great on soft copper and with a powerful and fast drill I have used it on hard drawn copper. Its just tough to hold the pipe if it is straight. P.S. It gets hot as hell use caution.

Yes it is. But still cheaper than many others.

Thanks Chris. I have run it with the transfer fluid temp around 250-255 for two runs. Seems about like the output speed I like. I was not sure of others experience with it.

Thanks for the offer. Ha. I am stuck in Charlotte working for now so not sure I would hold my breath. I run the oil temp about 250 for now.

Can anyone tell me the temp that you normally run your heat transfer fluid in your Bain Marie? Trying figure out what’s hot enough without over heating it so as to not overheat the botanicals.

I am hoping to concentrate some juniper flavor to add to gins that are lacking. I hope this will work for several things that can be used for liqueurs. I think that I will try it with sage and basil and other herbs for cooking as well.

While I was home two days I did get a chance to run the little gin still. It was a simple run based on Odin’s easy gin but with a little Oris and Angelica. My only complaint is my juniper was not the most fresh and it was weak in the final product. The Bain Marie worked great. 58496021-9A4D-4033-B45...

I have a shellfish allergy and you have nothing to worry about. Use oyster shell all the time in ferments.

I keep beer in mine as well.

The smaller copper pipes have pretty thin walls, I have used some spare 3 and 4 inch pipe that was type L. I did make some of mine from 6 inch type L that I had laying around. I think that between 0.625 and .100 thickness copper to be easy enough to work and rigid enough to not deform latter when be...

Chauncey thanks I feel like I just get by. Otis if it ends up being a problem with heating the support frame to much I will build a new set of clamps maybe out of a phenolic material that should isolate it. When I mount the sight glass with floats I will take some detailed pics of the parts and wiri...

Still dragon has the fittings as well. Their 3/4 tri clamp ferrule can be purchased in three different pipe sizes.

Have you ran this any more and if so how’s it running? Any pics of it fully assembled?

Just a pick before the outer piece of the clamp was installed.

I just cut the radius of the tube on six pieces of 1/4 inch plate. Two are welded to the support frame top and bottom. I drilled one hole each side between the welded plates thru the square tube. The two other half circles have a threaded rod welded to them. The rod slides between the welded plates ...

I am not sure about the original. I made a new seal bushing from PTFE rod and I wrap ptfe tape around the thermo before putting the packing nut on. When the packing cap is tightened it squeezes the tape between it and the seal bushing sealing it off.

Good to know. I did one batch of citrus by soaking a couple hrs then throwing the zest in the basket. Turned out great.

Thanks Chris I have been reading that and your experience with heating the low wines to increase esterification in rums. I would think that would change the taste of many things. I am sure that Maseration of gin botanical at a slightly raised temp would shorten the time needed as well.

The slots are .250 tall and .250 wide. Or 6.35mm. I would keep the .250 tall and make them .125 wide if I was doing it over. I cut them with a pair of hand nippers.

Build has slowed a bit with other parts of this hobby fighting for attention. I did get the support frame for the boiler tube built with the clamps. 4266D542-BB5D-4E1F-A7C7-561FA192F8B0.jpeg The red line is the top of the 6.5kw element. D779BB06-23A8-43E9-AC4B-D22FC72538E3.jpeg The clamps and frame ...

I really think I would read up on some of the builds here on this site and buy the parts needed. You will save some bucks, learn a lot and have fun.

I guess the best part of it is that I already had almost all the parts and I can use them on the larger boiler if I worked out the perfect recipe. I look forward to learning some new things about flavor infusion.

Thanks Chris. I don’t have the option of using gas where I live and have to run everything from the basement. My direct immersion heated boilers are 15 gallon so a little large for one off tests. Most all the parts where on hand so that’s they way I went. It will take a lot of learning to understand...

Just finished running it and it is really different than direct heat. Sluggish acting as expected. Still figuring out what the right temp for heating the oil and finding that I may need to put a small agitator to more the oil around to stop stratification. Just had 2 liters of 49% with citrus peels ...

For the top hole and the rectangle bottom hole I used a jigsaw. Starret makes some curve cutting blades for stainless steel. They are a little pricey but do a great job if you don’t push them to hard. As a side note I just bought the house and don’t know why so many cracks in the basement floor. It ...

This what it looks like when finished.