Finished Proofs

[Whitecap72]

Hi gang, hope this is the right spot for my topic. So I have ran many different recipes from fruit sugar shine to all grain whiskeys. It seems no matter what the recipe, I always end up with a max proof of 110 to 115. Is it just what my still will produce? It's a 15.5 gallon converted keg with a 5 gallon copper worm condensor. I mean it's way strong enough to get friends and family drunk,lol!! But I always read about others getting 120 plus proof out of a distillation. Thanks.

[OtisT]

Are you doing single runs? i.e. Running your ferment through only once.

Rule of thumb is the higher the ABV of your wash, the higher the ABV you get out. If you have only been doing a single run, try putting your low wines back into the boiler, diluted to a safe ABV (less than 45% is my recommendation), and re-run for a higher proof.

This double run is referred to as a Strip Run (Ferment to Low Wines) and a Spirit Run (Low Wines to Spirit.)

To keep more flavor, try diluting your low wines with fresh ferment.

Otis

[acfixer69]

In a simple pot still such as yours it is ABV out of the worm is dependent on ABV that went in the boiler. The accuracy of the hydrometer is a factor also speed of run. 5 proof is not much to consider as a comparison. Sound as thou you are doing fine.

posted with Otis

[Whitecap72]

Yes, I'm doing single runs. The still starts producing at 190 degrees. I takes about an hour to reach the temp, so I don't think I'm rushing the distillation. I keep it at 200 degrees throughout. The first 2 gallons take just over an hour to produce, and I think I kind of strain the still to get the third gallon, which I re distill with the next run anyway.

[bluefish_dist]

Your output rate will be determined by the heat input. More heat in, liquor out faster.

If you like what you make, no need to do two runs. There are some whiskeys that barrel as low as 100 proof and up until the late 60's the limit was 110 proof for barrel entry. Now it's 125 proof.

[Whitecap72]

Thanks, I just never wanted to reach the boiling point. Isn't distilling, steaming then condensing? Or is it ok to boil? I filter the mash as I pour it into the still, so it's clean of solids so there will be no scorching if it happens to boil.

[bluefish_dist]

You are boiling the wash/wort the whole time you are distilling. The boiling point changes with the amount of alcohol. It will start lower due to alcohol being present and slowly raise to 212 as the alcohol depletes.

For me on today's run, I started at 185 and ended at 200, but my boiling points are lower due to elevation.

[Whitecap72]

I'm at sea level. Wish I could squeeze out more than 2 drinkable gallons per run, but I'll take what I can get. I love thi s hobby as it's been a tradition for the last 3 generations.

[Pikey]

Yes, I'm doing single runs. The still starts producing at 190 degrees..................... I keep it at 200 degrees throughout..............

Wrong ! - You let the temperature rise from the 190 - up to 211 or so ! - You'll get a lot more out !

The "Heads and tails" - you chuck into the next boiler full and you get mre "Hearts out that time - can be quite a lot more !

I run in Centigrade and this is what I got holding the teperature at 85 (I think, it was a long time ago)

And like you say it took forever !

Then I went looking for the rest of the alcohol and let it run right up to 99.8 C

Guess what I do now ?

[Edit - & THAT is from a 25 litre urn, which I think is about 6 of your gallons ! ]

[Edit 2 - And this is what my offtake stream looks like - so adjust your heat when it starts to deliver - I wouldn't want to run much faster then that - for a single run !

[Edit 3 - I think my starting abv might be a little higher than yours - it's about 10-11% abv before adding "feints"

- Do let us know how you get on

[Whitecap72]

That's about what my stream looks like out of the worm. It of course slows down towards the end of the run. Thanks for the advise.

[Almtngoat]

Get a thumper, put some mash and feints in it and it will up your abv about 20%.