Better Method if you absolutely HAVE to use Turbo Yeast

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Re: Better Method if you absolutely HAVE to use Turbo Yeast

Postby Monkeyman88 » Mon Dec 07, 2015 1:07 pm

Both my father and grandfather have been using turbo yeast for almost 15 years and I've never seen blue distillate. However I've had blue distillate from bakers yeast.
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Re: Better Method if you absolutely HAVE to use Turbo Yeast

Postby FtW » Mon Dec 07, 2015 1:15 pm

If the turbo package is used following the directions the resulting alcohol makes Everclear look like great stuff. It probably is much better if the recommended amount of water is at least doubled, I have some fermenting now, but made a 10 gallon batch from the packet made for a 5 gallon batch & skimped on the sugar a bit. Came out to 1.072 before pitching the package.

Planning to use the turbo for a sacrificial run though, new shotgun PC is incoming.
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Re: Better Method if you absolutely HAVE to use Turbo Yeast

Postby cranky » Mon Dec 07, 2015 1:28 pm

Monkeyman88 wrote:Both my father and grandfather have been using turbo yeast for almost 15 years and I've never seen blue distillate. However I've had blue distillate from bakers yeast.

Guess that puts you in that rare 1% but I bet it wasn't the bakers yeast that caused the blue, it is usually the nutrients that do it. I believe in the right tool for the job, I also believe in low and slow ferments and think for making a good drop turbo yeast is not the right tool for that job. Others are welcome to their own opinions of what they are willing to do and that's fine, If they are happy using a hammer instead of a screw driver that's fine but I stand by what I said that 99% of the people getting blue distillate get it from the excess nutrients from the turbo yeast and I will continue to tell people to use the right tool for that job.
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Re: Better Method if you absolutely HAVE to use Turbo Yeast

Postby Monkeyman88 » Mon Dec 07, 2015 1:44 pm

My blue distillate was from a first gen UJ. Made as per t&t recipe. Now I've moved to rum. Fermented at 40°c for 1-3 days.
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Re: Better Method if you absolutely HAVE to use Turbo Yeast

Postby thecroweater » Mon Dec 07, 2015 1:59 pm

Oh c'Mon monkey there are literally thousands of people here that regularly use bakers yeast. The turdbro packs are or recommend 8 kgs of dex turbo and water to make up around 25 ltrs. Then 48 hrs later you mix part A to part B of the clearing agent (that smells like off prawns). The turbo smells like a mix of baked arse and baby spew before you add the krill extract. So this done you run this stuff and oh wow man triple the yield of any other yeast (joy joy) so a sipped later you shudder and dry reach but it doesn't matter because days of carbon filtering is still to come. Okey dokey so ya done all that but it's got so weird bitumenous flavour from the carbon and a hint of the spew taste not a big issue for the stuff destined to get cordialed up but what about that bottle of vodka. Well hell they even got a flavour for no flavour, of cause its not no flavour nor is it nice but it sure is better than straight spirit made from stressed yeast developed for fuel production. What you will find is most ppl have tried it or or got offered a drink by ppl who have. Like I said everyone only has themselves to please but the reason turdbro is dumped on on pretty much every forum is because it is friggen shit and not some weird conspiracy by makers of bread yeasts :thumbup:
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Re: Better Method if you absolutely HAVE to use Turbo Yeast

Postby Monkeyman88 » Mon Dec 07, 2015 2:46 pm

I know it's not the best to use. But every bit of it I've had has still been better than store bought stuff.
I wasn't trying to up turbo yeasts status, just pointing out that most that say don't use it. Haven't actually used it.
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Re: Better Method if you absolutely HAVE to use Turbo Yeast

Postby sungazer » Mon Dec 07, 2015 3:12 pm

I have never used the Carbon clean or whatever they are selling now that they say you have to add to the ferment to clean it. It wasnt around when I started and I am not going to spend money on something that is not needed. As for cost I can get a Still Spirits Classic 8 for $6 Aus I am using half of it if you like for a 25L wash so we are down to $3 for the 25L wash I don't think I could buy the EC1118 Dap, Citric acid Tartic Acid, Malic acid, Bentonite, Cerivit, Go Ferm for that price. Again the way I see it 100g of the nutrient blend in the pre packaged stuff is equal to the 100 G of stuff I would normally put in there. But as you say you only have to please yourself and be happy with your own results. I do both and am happy to experiment after all if it wasn't for that I wouldn't have got into it. In fact the driving factor for me was that I could do it myself from scratch if you like. Like I say after a while you get a bit lazy esp when you realize it may even be cheaper and is certainly more reliable using the packaged yeasts. PS not all of them are marketed as Turbo. I don't use the one that is marketed as turbo nor do I use the one that is marketed as slow.
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Re: Better Method if you absolutely HAVE to use Turbo Yeast

Postby cranky » Mon Dec 07, 2015 6:34 pm

Monkeyman88 wrote:I know it's not the best to use. But every bit of it I've had has still been better than store bought stuff.
I wasn't trying to up turbo yeasts status, just pointing out that most that say don't use it. Haven't actually used it.

I was pointing out that if you read and help people on this website and dozens and dozens of them have the same problems and those problems are so often related to turbo yeast, you don't have to have ever actually tried it to know it is crap and advise people not to use it. I am actually capable of learning from other mistakes, that's part of the reason for this forum.

You want a fast ferment, a pack of 1118 and $5 worth of plums will do anything a turbo yeast can do.
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Re: Better Method if you absolutely HAVE to use Turbo Yeast

Postby Headache Rob » Sun Mar 27, 2016 6:04 am

I'm new to the game so when I bought 5 lbs of turbo yeast with the enzymes already in it I thought yup gonna be a good time. I sure wished I found this site sooner. The way I'm mashing in is 2 5 gal buckets and putting cheese cloth over it.
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Re: Better Method if you absolutely HAVE to use Turbo Yeast

Postby JWP1979 » Fri Apr 08, 2016 4:25 am

I use turbo pure yeast which used to be still spirits triple distilled. I follow the pack instructions exactly, used the pack of yeast and nutrients, 21L of water as well as a pack of turbo carbon and 6kg of regular table sugar. This ferments in 7 days, I clear with turbo clear for 24 hours then I filter with a wine filter and the activated carbon pads and let the filtered wash run right into my boiler. This has really cleaned up the wash and has pretty much eliminated any off tastes or smells.
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Re: Better Method if you absolutely HAVE to use Turbo Yeast

Postby cranky » Fri Apr 08, 2016 12:46 pm

JWP1979 wrote:I use turbo pure yeast which used to be still spirits triple distilled. I follow the pack instructions exactly, used the pack of yeast and nutrients, 21L of water as well as a pack of turbo carbon and 6kg of regular table sugar. This ferments in 7 days, I clear with turbo clear for 24 hours then I filter with a wine filter and the activated carbon pads and let the filtered wash run right into my boiler. This has really cleaned up the wash and has pretty much eliminated any off tastes or smells.

Seems like a lot of work and extra ingredients to get rid of what won't be in a proper ferment with a proper yeast.
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Re: Better Method if you absolutely HAVE to use Turbo Yeast

Postby der wo » Fri Apr 08, 2016 1:32 pm

I have tried out this product. It is not a typical turbo like the ones for 8kg sugar in 25l. It's really a good product for neutrals. I don't believe in treating a mash with carbon, but who cares. It seems, that it is a good yeast and a good composition of nutrients. And the clearing agents are ok too (of course clearing agents are not mandatory for a good neutral).
But a tpw is cheaper and has the same quality.

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Re: Better Method if you absolutely HAVE to use Turbo Yeast

Postby rad14701 » Fri Apr 08, 2016 1:59 pm

cranky wrote:
JWP1979 wrote:I use turbo pure yeast which used to be still spirits triple distilled. I follow the pack instructions exactly, used the pack of yeast and nutrients, 21L of water as well as a pack of turbo carbon and 6kg of regular table sugar. This ferments in 7 days, I clear with turbo clear for 24 hours then I filter with a wine filter and the activated carbon pads and let the filtered wash run right into my boiler. This has really cleaned up the wash and has pretty much eliminated any off tastes or smells.

Seems like a lot of work and extra ingredients to get rid of what won't be in a proper ferment with a proper yeast.

+1... That was my take on it as well...
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Re: Better Method if you absolutely HAVE to use Turbo Yeast

Postby GrassHopper » Fri Apr 08, 2016 3:57 pm

rad14701 wrote:
cranky wrote:
JWP1979 wrote:I use turbo pure yeast which used to be still spirits triple distilled. I follow the pack instructions exactly, used the pack of yeast and nutrients, 21L of water as well as a pack of turbo carbon and 6kg of regular table sugar. This ferments in 7 days, I clear with turbo clear for 24 hours then I filter with a wine filter and the activated carbon pads and let the filtered wash run right into my boiler. This has really cleaned up the wash and has pretty much eliminated any off tastes or smells.

Seems like a lot of work and extra ingredients to get rid of what won't be in a proper ferment with a proper yeast.

+1... That was my take on it as well...

Are you feeling well Rad? :moresarcasm:

I wouldn't recommend that whole complicated process to anybody. My God people, don't complicate what has already been demonstrated ad nauseum. Cranky has beat his head against the wall, and some of you don't yet get it......"it's NOT the Turbo yeast", it's what people are doing with it. Don't you all get it? It's the recipe/wash/ferment/mash....hello. Turbo is designed to push that process to the limits of the yeast (producing alcohols other than ethanol) bad shit. Not good likker to drink for most unexperienced distillers. Does that mean Turbo should not be used? No. But you MUST understand why and what your are using it for. Nuff said.....hop down of my toad stool now.
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Re: Better Method if you absolutely HAVE to use Turbo Yeast

Postby thecroweater » Fri Apr 08, 2016 4:10 pm

Der wo has put it in a nut shell :thumbup:
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Re: Better Method if you absolutely HAVE to use Turbo Yeast

Postby cranky » Fri Apr 08, 2016 5:07 pm

GrassHopper wrote:Cranky has beat his head against the wall,

Way too many times. Maybe that's what's wrong with me :crazy: Seriously tho, when I was young I slept in the top bunk and fell out on my head a lot :roll:
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Re: Better Method if you absolutely HAVE to use Turbo Yeast

Postby Cheersbigears » Tue Jun 14, 2016 8:40 pm

G'Day All
Still new to this but got a T500 kit before finding this site and used the yeast that come with it than went to the Sam Willards 48Hr for a long time was great so I thought which is the same as the Alcotec 48 hr in a different packet I was told that a rep said this but not sure if that's correct anyway. Than I used the Super 6 yeast which was better again so stocked up but then found this site and I went to the TPW and it great so I got a drum about the 130 lts to stock up before winter. But as I don't want to throw the super 6 out. Could I put down a 100 lt tomato paste wash and change out the yeast for one packet of super 6 would this be the same as using 1/4 of a packet in a 25 lt wash. When i used this yeast before I used the hole packet per 25 lt wash 6 kgs of sugar. The end result would have to be better than the straight wash with no paste or am I at the wrong tree altogether.

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Re: Better Method if you absolutely HAVE to use Turbo Yeast

Postby Hound Dog » Fri Jul 01, 2016 1:15 pm

Cheersbigears wrote:G'Day All
Still new to this but got a T500 kit before finding this site and used the yeast that come with it than went to the Sam Willards 48Hr for a long time was great so I thought which is the same as the Alcotec 48 hr in a different packet I was told that a rep said this but not sure if that's correct anyway. Than I used the Super 6 yeast which was better again so stocked up but then found this site and I went to the TPW and it great so I got a drum about the 130 lts to stock up before winter. But as I don't want to throw the super 6 out. Could I put down a 100 lt tomato paste wash and change out the yeast for one packet of super 6 would this be the same as using 1/4 of a packet in a 25 lt wash. When i used this yeast before I used the hole packet per 25 lt wash 6 kgs of sugar. The end result would have to be better than the straight wash with no paste or am I at the wrong tree altogether.

Cheerbigears

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Re: Better Method if you absolutely HAVE to use Turbo Yeast

Postby Spriit Tisler » Fri Jul 22, 2016 10:47 am

Turbos are shit. I tried them and did everything to purify them and even 2 meters of active carbon will not get rid of all the off flavors.

Blue distillate can be avoided by adding acid (citric, for example) to cleared batch before distilling it. I add it when inverting and prior to that before distilling. Excess is not bad.
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Re: Better Method if you absolutely HAVE to use Turbo Yeast

Postby magnuson25 » Sat Sep 24, 2016 8:33 pm

Hello,
I see everyone stating that they are going to add extra nutrients. My question is, what "nutrients" would you add? purchased a 1 pound bag of distiller's yeast for making a corn mash with, but I am unsure what to use for nutrients so that my yeast doesn't die off.
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Re: Better Method if you absolutely HAVE to use Turbo Yeast

Postby der wo » Sun Sep 25, 2016 1:20 am

In turbo yeast all nutes are included normally. But your distillers yeast is no turbo yeast probably. At least "a 1 pound bag of distiller's yeast" doesn't sound like turbo yeast. So you post in the wrong thread. Nevermind. When I researched about nutrients, the huge thread about the birdwatchers recipe helped much. Member rad14701 posted much info about plant fertilizers and other stuff.
But anyway, a corn mash or a corn sugarhead too doesn't need adding nutes. At least when you stay in the normal range of 7-12%abv. I normally add a little fertilizer (because of the nitrogen), but it's not really necessary.
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Re: Better Method if you absolutely HAVE to use Turbo Yeast

Postby Hound Dog » Sun Sep 25, 2016 6:37 am

Like Der Wo says, you really don't need much of a nutrient. A sugar wash can use some tomato paste (no you won't taste the tomato) or the fertilizer as Der Wo suggests would be DAP or diammonium phosphate. Look it up on Amazon. You can pick up a pound for 8 bucks.

You should check if you are using live yeast also. What is often referred to as distillers yeast is dead yeast used as a nutrient itself. Yeast can be canibals.

Since you are unsure of nutrients, I might also suggest using a recipe from the Tried and True section of this forum. Follow a simple one and it will work. Do you know what you want to make? You say corn, do you know if you like corn liquor? If you like something more like commercial whiskey, make some sweetfeed. If you really want corn make UJSSM. Either will need good cuts and a little aging to really be good.
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Re: Better Method if you absolutely HAVE to use Turbo Yeast

Postby still_stirrin » Sun Sep 25, 2016 7:10 am

der wo wrote:...I normally add a little fertilizer (because of the nitrogen), but it's not really necessary.

Agreed.

Fertilizer is NPK...nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium. The yeast use the nitrogen for metabolism, helping to consume/reduce proteins for energy. And the phosphorous acts as a catalyst, energizing cell activity by balancing the osmotic pressure on the cell walls. This is fundamental to the budding/reproduction process.

Another mineral nutrient that yeast use for metabolism includes magnesium, often carried by sulfates, i.e.- epsom salts (magnesium sulfate). But be gentle with this as it will introduce sulfurs into your ferment which can react with the copper in the still. Also, sulfur compounds have a low threshold of our olfactory sensations....we're very sensitive to them...stinky!

Turbo yeast packages often include large doses of some of these vital minerals to activate the ferment processes. But aggressive fermentations can produce negative congeners in the product. So, this is the consideration to be made.
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Re: Better Method if you absolutely HAVE to use Turbo Yeast

Postby thecroweater » Sun Sep 25, 2016 7:21 am

If the nitrogen is in the form of urea it should not be used as it forms compound that are considered unsafe
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Re: Better Method if you absolutely HAVE to use Turbo Yeast

Postby IslandBoy » Thu Jan 05, 2017 4:09 am

I am using this method for my first wash in order to work through the Turbo I already purchased. I live in a tropical climate and the wash has stayed mostly at 34* down to 32* in the night. From what I have ready higher temperatures could lead to faster ferments but also washes going to crap faster. I am 48 hours into this wash and its bubbling away like I think it is supposed to but wanted to get your guys thoughts on the temp. My goal is to try Birdwatchers sugar wash after this one. Do I need to figure out some way to cool the wash or is 32* to 34* ok?

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Re: Better Method if you absolutely HAVE to use Turbo Yeast

Postby homebrewer007 » Wed Jun 14, 2017 6:25 pm

I would like to start by saying I am ecstatic that folks are leaning away from the use of Turbo Yeast. I literally have at least two customers a day coming into the shop asking for Turbo Yeast, and I always do my best to discourage the use of the product. I don't even stock it in the shop. We carry over 55 strains of yeast in our yeast fridge, and Turbo Yeast is not one of them.

Let's first look at the strain itself and break down its history. It was created for the bio-diesel industry as a way to ferment unmodified grains very rapidly. Being that it was never designed for human consumption, not much thought went into the characteristics of fermentation according to the pallet. It is a low flocculating highly attenuation yeast that will indeed break down more complex chains of sucrose and dextrose than that of a typical Sacramyces strain. That being said it also creates a very high level of DMS and Dyacital. It does like to ferment hot (80 plus degrees F) but with the higher temps come fussel alcohols. Now it is rated at 18% ABV in solution, but just because it can perform that high does not mean it is ideal. Alcohol above 13% is considered a toxic environment for any yeast strain, and will stress out the cells as they strive to attenuate and survive. Through yeast stress comes even more off flavors and defiantly a culture you will never be able to salvage and slant for future use.

We see the same type of consequences when using bread yeast as well. Bread yeast, while it will create alcohol and C02 as a byproduct is not genetically created to do so. We see the same signs of stress in these strains as well. I know your argument on that is "but people have been using it for centuries!" You're correct and they have also used unmalted unmodified corn for centuries as well. The reason our elders did this was during prohibition and even until recently the prohibition of homebrewing (prior to 1978) those were the resources we had to rely on to make any type of liquor. Now we are spoiled with highly modified barley, corn, wheat, and rye as well as so many strains of high performing yeast that we can't count them all. Take a look a professional distilleries and see what they are using to create fantastic 100.00 bottles of whiskey and you will see that you can find the exact same ingredients for sale in any local homebrew shop.

Now that I have ranted I will get back on topic. Let us take a look at very reputable whiskey yeasts on the market today. I prefer Liquor Quick personally, but there are many products that are just as good and are similar strains. They are designed to digest maltos which is extracted from malted barley and corn and covert it to alcohol. Yes, it still creates an undesirable environment for itself, but it also ferments at a slow pace and happily at 65* F. This controlled fermentation creates subtle flavors and soft properties that we consider appropriate for the style. Many professional distillers who are in the same professional circle as me say they really only want fermentation to reach 13% then they can run off the still at 80 proof or higher and cut the product down to specifications. I guarantee the 200.00 bottle of artisan whiskey I am enjoying as I type this was not created with Turbo Yeast at 18%. I don't know about you, but I did not enter this hobby to create a high octane product that would just get me lit fast and taste horrible. I got into to recreate the 200.00 bottle of whiskey I so enjoy.

As I tell my customers, my personal opinion is if you got into this hobby to save money and make a hot liquor that does nothing but blow your hair back you got into for the wrong reasons. yes, you will save money when it is all said and done, but when you look at equipment, ingredients, and especially time spent, you might as well go to Bevmo and buy a bottle of Johnny Walker Blue. I use the analogy that I did not spend 60k on a bass boat and tackle because I was hungry; it is a hobby and a craft I enjoy.

Kudos to those discouraging those new to the hobby from using Turbo Yeast. One of the best things you can do to improve your product is improve yeast health and use the proper ingredients for the job.
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Re: Better Method if you absolutely HAVE to use Turbo Yeast

Postby der wo » Thu Jun 15, 2017 12:51 am

BTW. Do we really have a proof, that Turbo yeast is originally designed for the fuel industry?
I often have mashed with turbo yeast. It is possible to get something like 18-19%, but it is not possible to get this in a few days. To push a birdwatchers with nutrients up to 10% is much faster. Time is money. I think they are more happy with 10% in 36h than with 18% in 5 days. Probably they use a special strain and perhaps this is the strain in turbo yeast, I don't know, this whole story doesn't match for me.

homebrewer,
did you try out bakers yeast once? For Whisky or for beer?

homebrewer007 wrote:Let's first look at the strain itself and break down its history. It was created for the bio-diesel industry as a way to ferment unmodified grains very rapidly. Where do you know? Being that it was never designed for human consumption So what? ... That being said it also creates a very high level of DMS and Dyacital. Where do you know? It does like to ferment hot (80 plus degrees F) but with the higher temps come fussel alcohols. If it likes to ferment hot, why it produces more fusel oils then? Now it is rated at 18% ABV in solution, but just because it can perform that high does not mean it is ideal. Sounds logical... Alcohol above 13% is considered a toxic environment for any yeast strain, and will stress out the cells as they strive to attenuate and survive. ...but can only proofed if you try it out. Or is there a study?

We see the same type of consequences when using bread yeast as well. Where do you know? Who is "we"? Bread yeast, while it will create alcohol and C02 as a byproduct is not genetically created to do so. Where do you know? We see the same signs of stress in these strains as well. Who sees exactly what? I know your argument on that is "but people have been using it for centuries!" No. The argument is: Did you try it by yourself? You're correct and they have also used unmalted unmodified corn for centuries as well. The reason our elders did this was during prohibition and even until recently the prohibition of homebrewing (prior to 1978) those were the resources we had to rely on to make any type of liquor. Now we are spoiled with highly modified barley, corn, wheat, and rye as well as so many strains of high performing yeast that we can't count them all. You mean mainly highly modified for beer? Did you try once something like cracked corn chicken feed or COB horse feed for Whiskey? Take a look a professional distilleries and see what they are using to create fantastic 100.00 bottles of whiskey and you will see that you can find the exact same ingredients for sale in any local homebrew shop. Because they sell better?

I guarantee the 200.00 bottle of artisan whiskey I am enjoying as I type this was not created with Turbo Yeast at 18%. Wrong argument. At least in my country it is not allowed to use Turbo yeast for commercial spirits. For tax reasons, not helath or quality. A mashing up to an OG for 18% alcohol would be not easy. And the fermentation would need much time. All in all not economic I don't know about you, but I did not enter this hobby to create a high octane product that would just get me lit fast and taste horrible. How do you know a well mashed Whiskey mash fermented with turbo yeast tastes horrible?

As I tell my customers, my personal opinion is if you got into this hobby to save money and make a hot liquor that does nothing but blow your hair back you got into for the wrong reasons. Show me a picture :D
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Re: Better Method if you absolutely HAVE to use Turbo Yeast

Postby thecroweater » Thu Jun 15, 2017 5:21 am

OK a few comments got me interested enough to find and dust off and old book by Mike Rodgers-Wilson printed in 2004 called Brewing Crafts. The guy mainly writes about brewing but when discussing stilling he is a complete still spirits fanatic. I see since this book the ss turbo stable has dropped from a range of 8 to five with some of the more ghastly strains dropped like the turbo extra for making ultra high abv washes by their own admission at the cost of quality and likewise the express 24 hr shit. The nearly as bad 48 hr stuff is still around and is probably the main one discussed here along with the high temp one, all these come from the turbo classic strain that was developed for a fast high yield result and not specifically for flavour qualities. Its a very robust and aggressive strain of yeast and these characteristics perfectly suited biofuel and other industrial ethanol production. It was from these the turbo and alcotec strains were developed for the hbs reflux distiller. The guy happy to chuck in his 8 KGS of dex in his 23 litre fermenter fill with water and carbon shit. Two days later turbo clear it running chucking out the first 50 ml carbon filter that with the supa doopa plastic Z filter throw in some "vodka" essence and Bobs ya aunties live in lover :sick: .
Bottom line is there are so many better options I don't get why you would want to use this crap, its not great its not cheap, I guess it is fast got to give it that but is a couple of days worth the trade off? Personally I'd say nup not a chance others will disagree and that's fine. All we can do as members is inform folks so they can go away and make their own informed decisions. There are worse things you can do to a mash than use turbo and there are some tricks around like under pitching that minimize the production of off flavours for those with a need for speed, me I'll just chug along with my bread ale and wine yeasts thanks very much :thumbup:
Those who would give up essential Liberty, to purchase a little temporary Safety, deserve neither Liberty nor Safety. Benjamin Franklin
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Re: Better Method if you absolutely HAVE to use Turbo Yeast

Postby homebrewer007 » Thu Jun 15, 2017 4:09 pm

To answer the questions about the studies done on the attentuation, flocuation, and performance of Turbo Yeast and other products I can say as a professional in the industry this is a topic I've studied in depth almost my entire adult life. As a brew master most of my time is spent in the lab as a microbiologist plating and studying the behaviors of each strain we may potentially use in production. I also understand I am not the sharpest tool in the shed, but luckily I happen to have the phone numbers of very intelligent people in the industry. For instance: Chris White of White Labs yeast has taught many classes on the subject, and is someone I can rely on for sound information. John Palmer, Jamil Zainachef, and Wyeast Labs are also colleagues who's research and findings I trust very much. The American Brewer's Academy and The Brewer's Guild at UC Davis have done very in depth studies on yeast performance and how each strain effects the final product.

It was Chris White who drafted many papers to include a thesis concerning how each yeast strain was cultured from wild samples breweries and distilleries used around the world. For example WLP001 is a CA Ale yeast cultured for Sierra Nevada and is considered a proprietary yeast. We can use the culture and sell it to the public under its scientific name, but can not call it CA Ale yeast or Sierra Nevada's Strain. Same goes for Dog Fish Head's strain Wlp East Coast Ale, WLP070 which is Jack Daniels Yeast, and Wyeast Scotch Strain which is Johnny Walker's yeast.

On top of my professional contacts and the countless seminars I've attended on the subject, part of graduating the Brewer's Guild is a microbiology course with a lot of tests surrounding what each culture is, what it does, its function in the industry, and its history.

To answer the question about the use of feed corn, I assure you I have never used it in the creation of an alcoholic product nor would I. Again, too much research and hard work has been done to provide the industry with high quality malted grains which are designed to produce a professional product. Even on the homebrew side brewers strive to use only the best ingredients mirroring what the professional brewers use. Using substandard ingredients will leave you with a substandard product. Professional distillers use the exact same distributors and ingredients as brewers to make a wonderful product. A professional whiskey maker would never consider using feed corn to make his product that is aimed to hit the shelf at the local grocery store. It is also illegal to use non food grade materials in the brew house or distillery.

Pre 1978 homebrewers would have to resort to using malt extract and bread yeast because they had no other choice. Since the AHA fought to legalize homebrewing in 1978 we have now at our disposal the same resources professional brewers use and can in turn create equally good products. Those beers being brewed prior to 1978 were not exactly something that would cleanup at NHC. The same goes for home whiskey production. Yes it's still illegal, but getting the ingredients needed to produce a product that is comparable to a professional sample is as easy as a trip to your local homebrew shop and some time invested in research and studying proper documentation. Every professional distiller I talk to tells me the same thing; making a high quality whiskey is no different than brewing a beer for competition with the exception of one added step on the back end.

So, I totally understand that you question my personal knowledge on the subject since I'm just some dude on the interwebs, but the sources I've cited above are reputable well known professionals in the industry who dedicate their lives to this passion. I ask you to please not take my word on this info, but read the published papers written by people who study this exact thing everyday.
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Re: Better Method if you absolutely HAVE to use Turbo Yeast

Postby ShineonCrazyDiamond » Thu Jun 15, 2017 4:30 pm

Spoken like a true HBS owner with everything to gain.

I discredit not, your expertise on making beer. It most certainly isn't based on whatever name drop makes you feel more relevant, though.

But your post above shows that you have zero true knowledge on distilling a great product. You have me at a disadvantage, because I can't quote medals won for my whiskey making due to the illegal nature. But mind you, I make a better whiskey than you can find from any of your friends, and for sure better than you can make. Your brewing knowledge is superb, but your arrogance reeks.

Please, stop giving your customers advice on liquor making and just send them here. They deserve better.
"Come on you stranger, you legend, you martyr, and shine!
You reached for the secret too soon, you cried for the moon.
Shine on you crazy diamond."
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