Temperature of product coming off a liebig

[piperdave]

I have just recently acquired a system that uses a liebig condenser. Previously I was using a pot with a worm and flake stand. With my initial runs with the new system my output was hot. No vapour escaping but hot. With my worm system this was never the case.

My cooling water was from a faucet so the temp going into the liebig wasn't the issue. I guess I want to know if this is normal?

24 in SS 3/4 over 1/2

[still_stirrin]

How much heat going into your boiler? What is your product collection rate? Is this a Liebig on a pot still, or a reflux head? We need more info on your system.
ss

[bearriver]

24 inches isn't very much length. Warm/hot distillate sure doesn't surprise me. I'd consider you lucky that no vapor is slipping past it also.

Googe started a recent thread on this topic a few days ago, and the parent site has calculators for approximating the required size for a liebig.

[HDNB]

i found i like the product better that comes off at 120*F. any hotter than that i get nervous though. i'd be real cautious at approaching 140*

seems to air out nice as it cools in a wide mouth jar. also on electric so no open flames around...i'm on 24" of 2" over 4 x 1/2"...have to really slow the water to raise the temps of output.

[still_stirrin]

i found i like the product better that comes off at 120*F. any hotter than that i get nervous though. i'd be real cautious at approaching 140*

Agreed, the warm distillate allows the heads (residual volatiles) to continue to effervesce off. It helps the initial airing out cycle.

...i'm on 24" of 2" over 4 x 1/2"...have to really slow the water to raise the temps of output.

That is a good design...a shotgun product condenser. Your 24" shotgun equates to nearly 7 feet of Liebig (3/4" or 1" over 1/2") with very good efficiency. Not much water is needed to remove the required heat flux. And I bet the coolant water comes out at 120-130F as well...where you want it for maximum efficiency.

The shotgun design is a great way to add conduction surface area without adding length (due to still house physical constraints).
ss

[Bushman]

I wished I had a video as with my shotgun condenser on my CM I throw very little water at it as the water comes out actually still cold with not much more than a trickle. Of course my condenser is long with MR's twisted design with 4 half inch tubes.

[piperdave]

I was doing a strip so I had the 1500 w electric on my 8 gal. pot up to max.....better yet I will post some pics of the setup. At work right now so later today. I appreciate your input to my output dilemma.

[still_stirrin]

...I was doing a strip so I had the 1500 w electric on my 8 gal. pot up to max...

Slide1.jpg

Something like this might help since your factory condenser can't handle the factory induced heat load.
ss

[DAD300]

The simple answers are increase coolant flow and turn down the power if necessary.

A small bit of scrubbie or a small wad of gauze lightly placed in the end of the leibig, will slow the flow and keep it in contact with the leibig longer.

Check the temperature of the coolant water at the outflow. Never let it exceed 140F.

Product condensers tend to be the weak link in early rigs.

[piperdave]

...I was doing a strip so I had the 1500 w electric on my 8 gal. pot up to max...

Slide1.jpg

Something like this might help since your factory condenser can't handle the factory induced heat load.
ss

[piperdave]

Woops...that is my set up sorta....i can rig a thumper in between. I should a built my own...that looks very interesting Still-stirrin. I agree, i can send too much heat at the condenser. Crap. Guess I go back to stripping with my old rig and then spirit runs with the new rig with the thumper. It seems to be able to take the heat with the thumper

[Danespirit]

Running with a thumper will draw some heat, but is no substitute for adequate cooling..
+1 Bearriver... Look for Googes thread about Liebig here.. : http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopi ... 87&t=56307

Don't rely to much on the calculator on the parent site, it is somewhat overdimentioned.
Anyway...rather a bit more than to little..

[cranky]

I have a 36"liebig 3/4 over 1/2 and it can handle anything the 5500W element throws at it. I also have a 24" extension for it that I never use. It's similar to the one still_stirrin shows but without the bend. I think that's a pretty good and simple solution and would be pretty cheap and fast to build.

[Bull Rider]

I keep the distillate temp between 120 and 125, with 130 as a "do not exceed, turn down the heat" event. That's for stripping, for a spirit run I keep the temp under 120, and shoot for 110.

[BentJar]

A1 on the warm distillate. It should come out warm but not hot enough to steam up the collection jar. Then you have a accident waiting to happen.
We try to push the still power up until a little at a time until the product is warm. Its makes a better likker and cleans up in the airing out process better. As stated earlier.

[Antler24]

I have a 36"liebig 3/4 over 1/2 and it can handle anything the 5500W element throws at it. I also have a 24" extension for it that I never use. It's similar to the one still_stirrin shows but without the bend. I think that's a pretty good and simple solution and would be pretty cheap and fast to build.

Same here, 36" long 3/4 over 1/2". Spiral wire, scrubbing in the vapor path. Handles 5500w with ease

[Truckinbutch]

I have 51" x 1" over 1/2 " . Heat with a 70k btu propane burner . No 2 runs are the same . Just play with heat and coolant flow during the entire run . You have to learn how to drive evey rig you use . The more uou run the better you will get at it .