Stripping & Spirit run or just spirit run on a reflux still?

[bastardbrewer]

Hi guys,

I am the proud (although less proud upon reading most of you run a pot still and don't seem to like the T500 ) owner of a T500 SS reflux fractional column still.

My question is: Most of you explain how you do a stripping run before a spirit run. Is this only (or mostly) applicable for the potstill users, and not (or less so) for the reflux still users?

On my reflux still, could I simply run it once with the coppers saddles/rashers in the column and produce a decent or good?) product, providing cuts are made and only hearts are used (possibly small amount of heads / tails to be used if I believe they will add to the flavour of the product)?

Would it be best to do a stripping run by taking out the saddles and effectively do a stripping run first to extract all alcohol, to follow up with a spirit run to extract the cleanest, neatest, purest alcohol? Or is the fractional working sound enough so that it won't make a difference?

Additionally, I assume cuts will still need to be made, however may be different as described in the novice guide for cuts?

Last but not least, I will be using botanicals to make gin. From combining other users advice with my common sense (that may only be common sense to me) I think I would do the stripping run, followed by a spirit run where I add botanicals in the botanical basket in the bottom of the column.

Last but not least 2, I am making both a turbo wash and a birdwatcher wash to experience the difference myself. Ill run both through the same process, based on the best (or my own "common sense") advice and inform you all of the results.

Advice, suggestions, and any input would be much appreciated!

Regards,
Bjorn the bastardbrewer.

[Yummyrum]

First off , you are one lucky son of a bitch to be born a bastard brewer

Stripping a wash prior to reflux stilling it will always give a purer spirit with a higher AVB ..significantly better than just refluxing a wash .
Normal procedure is to strip a few washes 2-4 then do a reflux run . This will net you a huge amount of good stuff .

Reflux runs take time. Stripping runs can be done hard and fast . ... you can fit them in when time is precious . Save the stripped stuff until you have a day free then bang out a whole lot of quality .

I don’t own a T500 but over the years of reading and listening , they aren’t good at running as a stripper even with the saddles out . Seems the higher temps that are experienced during a stripping run cause issues with the plastic bits in the T500.

Maybe you should investigate getting a dedicated Pot still head that fits your boiler .

If you are doing a Gin then again , a dedicated pot still would be a better option .

[still_stirrin]

T500, huh?

The goal is a gin, right?

Here’s what I’d do:
1) Forget the Turbo yeast. Make a Rad’s All Bran recipe using baker’s yeast. Make it with an OG = 1.075 (10%ABV potential). Make enough for three charges of your boiler.
2) Remove the packing and run the T500 in potstill mode, that is, without water flowing to the reflux condenser, only cooling the product condenser. Run it fast and collect the 3 stripping runs down until the collection is at 30%ABV (without making cuts). You could collect and discard a small foreshots cut if you’d like. But, no other cuts.
3) Configure the T500 for reflux but adding the packing and connecting the reflux condenser coolant lines. Charge the boiler with the low wines (the collection from the combined stripping runs). Collect the product in 20 to 24 appropriately sized jars, enough to allow a fine degree of cuts.
4) Cover the jars with a coffee filter and let them air for 24 to 36 hours at room temperature. You will lose a little of the spirit, but it will also help eliminate the higher alcohols and volatile constituents, cleaning up the remaing product.
5) Make your cuts....see Kiwistiller’s Guide to Cuts for instructions on how to do this. I suggest starting at the middle jar and working down first. Then, from the middle jar upward. Record your perceptions...smell and taste, etc. Be very descriptive with your notes...it’ll help you make better cuts. Oh, and be sure to water each sample down to 40-45%ABV before tasting...it’ll save your taste buds. And always rinse your mouth with water between each taste...it’ll help your senses.
6) Once you’ve decided what jars are your best (cleanest) neutral product, then you can use those to macerate your juniper and botanicals. Some put the citrus into the maceration...I prefer to put it into the vapor path of the still instead. The citrus can overpower the gin otherwise.
7) Reconfigure the T500 for a final gin run...as a potstill again. Charge it and run it as advised in Odin’s EZ gin recipe (see the T&T forum). You collect and discard the very first 10ml from the run. Then collect the next 800 ml per liter of the charge. It’ll make a delightful gin for you.

Again, this is all explaned at length in Odin’s recipe. Go read and reread it. It’ll help you.

Oh, and I always follow the strip + spirit run protocol, even for flavored spirits. It makes a better product. The T500 can be a useful tool....if you learn how to use it. Read and learn from other users on the strengths and weaknesses.

Good luck. Be safe, responsible, and discrete.
ss

[bastardbrewer]

Thanks gents for your feedback,

I will be doing a stripping run first then, without the saddles and see how it holds up before doing the spirit run. I seen a video on youtube from Barley and Hops Brewing, showing how they use the T500 in pot still mode (still with all cooling hoses connected, see my request for clarification on cooling below though). Do you know any forum users who run with a T500? I'd be keen to get in touch with them for some first hand experiences. There is a copper alembic with condenser available for the T500 but I just forked out for the column so want to give that a go first , but depending on the column experience I may buy the alembic in a couple months.

@yummyrum, what plastic bits may cause issues? I'm thinking only the lid seal and short hose connecting the condenser to the column are plastic? But surely these should be designed for steam temperatures? If not, I will try and source them fit for higher temps.

T500 users, please share your "pot still mode" experience with me!!

@ still_stillin:
At your point 2, how do you mean only cooling the product condenser? The only cooling water connection in is at the bottom of the condenser and the only out is at the base of the column? Or do you mean no cooling at all? sorry, i'm confused would you mind explaining?

At you7 point 7, I Read into Odins gin and will certainly follow that. Question, what do you mean with "Then collect the next 800 ml per liter of the charge"? Odin explains: Discard the first 10 mls, collect the next 400 mms; You will end up with 400 mls at around 70 to 80%; Dilute to 45%.

Looking so forward to doing my firs runs and hopefully ending up with a quality product, at least after a couple runs .

Again any additional advice is appreciated! I will certainly share the result of the first runs here!

Regards,
Bjorn the Bastard (currently only wine brewer but distiller brewer to be)

[still_stirrin]

At your point 2, how do you mean only cooling the product condenser? The only cooling water connection in is at the bottom of the condenser and the only out is at the base of the column? Or do you mean no cooling at all? sorry, i'm confused would you mind explaining?

Obviously you’ll need pc cooling water. But, at the top where the water loops back to the column (and the internal reflux condenser), simply route the water to the drain or your reservoir, rather than back through the reflux condenser.

At you7 point 7, I Read into Odins gin and will certainly follow that. Question, what do you mean with "Then collect the next 800 ml per liter of the charge"? Odin explains: Discard the first 10 mls, collect the next 400 mms; You will end up with 400 mls at around 70 to 80%; Dilute to 45%.

Yes, good catch.

I typically charge my boiler with 2 liter charges, so I collect 2x400=800ml according to Odin. The product comes off the still at close to 180 proof (+/-) and when tempered back to bottle strength at 90 proof, it nets me roughly 800 ml/liter of charge. Sorry for the confusion.
ss

[NZChris]

Before you run your good product through it, be sure to do a vinegar run and a sacrificial alcohol run to clean out any residual toxins from it's manufacture.

[bastardbrewer]

Thanks Chris, will do