Adding still to homebrewing setup
Moderator: Site Moderator
-
- Novice
- Posts: 27
- Joined: Mon Mar 15, 2021 5:16 am
Adding still to homebrewing setup
I am excited to get in to this craft! I have been home brewing for 15 years and 10 of those have been all-grain brewing (mashing grains to make wort). I have found a lot of similarities with homebrewing and distilling, but I’m looking for some feedback on the equipment I want to purchase.
I really like modular and flexible systems and am looking to add this on to my current setup. I want to make sure I’m not forgetting anything so I don’t have to pay shipping more than once.
I want to be able to make vodka (for my wife who gave the blessing to buy the equipment), but I really want to make some whiskey. I’m very intrigued by the different techniques of finishing and aging whiskey.
Here is my current equipment:
Spike CF 15 conical fermenter
Glycol chiller/pump to control fermentation temps
Robobrew 65l boil kettle
Various 1.5” and 2” triclover parts with clamps and gaskets
Here is what I would like to purchase:
The lid to add on still- https://www.kegland.com.au/65l-distilla ... -hole.html
This still package from NorCal brewing solutions. (I’ve always been a fan of his awesome brewing gadgets) it comes with Dephlegmator, Lyne Arm, sight glass with perforated disk, 31” x 1.5 condenser, and all needed clamps and gaskets.
Still Spirits Turbo 500 Jaybird Ultimate Reflux Kit, NorCal Brewing Solutions https://www.norcalbrewingsolutions.com/ ... x-Kit.html
And a parrot with alcometer - https://www.kegland.com.au/kegland-dist ... steel.html
Questions:
Do I need to worry about the silicon gaskets for triclover clamps?
Can I use my glycol chiller and re-circulate through the condenser?
Anything else I should consider?
I really like modular and flexible systems and am looking to add this on to my current setup. I want to make sure I’m not forgetting anything so I don’t have to pay shipping more than once.
I want to be able to make vodka (for my wife who gave the blessing to buy the equipment), but I really want to make some whiskey. I’m very intrigued by the different techniques of finishing and aging whiskey.
Here is my current equipment:
Spike CF 15 conical fermenter
Glycol chiller/pump to control fermentation temps
Robobrew 65l boil kettle
Various 1.5” and 2” triclover parts with clamps and gaskets
Here is what I would like to purchase:
The lid to add on still- https://www.kegland.com.au/65l-distilla ... -hole.html
This still package from NorCal brewing solutions. (I’ve always been a fan of his awesome brewing gadgets) it comes with Dephlegmator, Lyne Arm, sight glass with perforated disk, 31” x 1.5 condenser, and all needed clamps and gaskets.
Still Spirits Turbo 500 Jaybird Ultimate Reflux Kit, NorCal Brewing Solutions https://www.norcalbrewingsolutions.com/ ... x-Kit.html
And a parrot with alcometer - https://www.kegland.com.au/kegland-dist ... steel.html
Questions:
Do I need to worry about the silicon gaskets for triclover clamps?
Can I use my glycol chiller and re-circulate through the condenser?
Anything else I should consider?
Re: Adding still to homebrewing setup
chapelhouse wrote: ↑Wed Mar 17, 2021 7:42 pm This still package from NorCal brewing solutions. (I’ve always been a fan of his awesome brewing gadgets) it comes with Dephlegmator, Lyne Arm, sight glass with perforated disk, 31” x 1.5 condenser, and all needed clamps and gaskets.
Still Spirits Turbo 500 Jaybird Ultimate Reflux Kit, NorCal Brewing Solutions https://www.norcalbrewingsolutions.com/ ... x-Kit.html
That package is obscenely over-priced. Not only that but the column is far too short to reflux effectively. Go ahead and buy the lid adapter but slow down, do a little more research on column design, and spend a little time comparison shopping.
For example, many of the components (less the condensers) can be found here: https://www.glaciertanks.com/
If the wife wants vodka then you'll want a CCVM head. Starting with that configuration, you can strip out a few pieces and you'll be ready to run for whiskey. Oh yeah, I'd highly suggest you forget the parrot. A test jar and proof-and-tralle hydrometer will do just fine.
________________
I drank fifty pounds of feed-store corn
'till my clothes were ratty and torn
I drank fifty pounds of feed-store corn
'till my clothes were ratty and torn
- still_stirrin
- Master of Distillation
- Posts: 10344
- Joined: Tue Mar 18, 2014 7:01 am
- Location: where the buffalo roam, and the deer & antelope play
Re: Adding still to homebrewing setup
+1 to what greggn said.
And if you could get some copper into the stillhead, you’ll be glad you did. Copper helps reduce sulfurs from the ferments.
Question: did you make any of your brewing equipment, or did you buy it all? Here we’ve found it easy to build much of our equipment, for three reasons:
1) it helps keep your name off of a “distiller list”, and
2) it will keep the marketeers out of your pocketbook. It is much more economical to build (copper is expensive, so it is not “free”). But why pay someone who is in business to capitalize on the new trend of home distillation? And
3) you can build a system that will meet your requirements, beit neutral spirits or brown liquor.
The condenser controlled vapor managed (CCVM) reflux stillhead can be adapted to run neutrals and also be configured as a potstill for stripping and making full flavored spirits. With “modularity, it is very “future-proof”.
Hang around and read for a while to better understand your requirements. Then, make your purchase. In the meantime, start some ferments to get some “distiller’s beer” ready for the still. It sounds like your experience there will have your ahead of that game.
ss
And if you could get some copper into the stillhead, you’ll be glad you did. Copper helps reduce sulfurs from the ferments.
Question: did you make any of your brewing equipment, or did you buy it all? Here we’ve found it easy to build much of our equipment, for three reasons:
1) it helps keep your name off of a “distiller list”, and
2) it will keep the marketeers out of your pocketbook. It is much more economical to build (copper is expensive, so it is not “free”). But why pay someone who is in business to capitalize on the new trend of home distillation? And
3) you can build a system that will meet your requirements, beit neutral spirits or brown liquor.
The condenser controlled vapor managed (CCVM) reflux stillhead can be adapted to run neutrals and also be configured as a potstill for stripping and making full flavored spirits. With “modularity, it is very “future-proof”.
Hang around and read for a while to better understand your requirements. Then, make your purchase. In the meantime, start some ferments to get some “distiller’s beer” ready for the still. It sounds like your experience there will have your ahead of that game.
ss
My LM/VM & Potstill: My build thread
My Cadco hotplate modification thread: Hotplate Build
My stock pot gin still: stock pot potstill
My 5-grain Bourbon recipe: Special K
My Cadco hotplate modification thread: Hotplate Build
My stock pot gin still: stock pot potstill
My 5-grain Bourbon recipe: Special K
Re: Adding still to homebrewing setup
agree with greg, i could buy a better modular system at half that price.
i don't see how it's going to reflux much either, (produce neutral).
the defleg only has 3 tubes, is that enough?
for good reflux on a 2", i think there should be at least 1m of column between boiler and deflag?
have a think before parting with your hard-earned
if you go for a parrot, you can get one that tri-clovers to the bottom of the product condenser. i have one that has a valve on the bottom so i can just let product drip through on spirit runs or close the valve and monitor the abv on strip runs. i find it quite handy (but not essential obv).
i don't see how it's going to reflux much either, (produce neutral).
the defleg only has 3 tubes, is that enough?
for good reflux on a 2", i think there should be at least 1m of column between boiler and deflag?
have a think before parting with your hard-earned
if you go for a parrot, you can get one that tri-clovers to the bottom of the product condenser. i have one that has a valve on the bottom so i can just let product drip through on spirit runs or close the valve and monitor the abv on strip runs. i find it quite handy (but not essential obv).
- rubberduck71
- Site Donor
- Posts: 743
- Joined: Sat May 30, 2020 11:22 am
- Location: Eastern PA
Re: Adding still to homebrewing setup
Completely agree with greggn & ss's comments above, but if you're hell-bent on building upon your current Robobrew pot, check out the pot still & reflux still conversion kits avail for it. Cheapest I've found for them is Williams Brewing out of California. Free shipping over orders of $100. Each of those conversion kits is in the $150 range. You'll want both types, as stripping runs through just the reflux head is very slow in comparison to the pot head. Plus you can use the pot head to make whiskeys.
All that said, I don't see conversion kits for the 65L Robobrew, but they must have them as they sell the 65L DIgiboil unit (basically same as Brewzilla, but less bells & whistles) with both attachments. You can make it modular by using the 2" weldless bulkhead triclamp attachment which fits on the lid hole. Then get some 2" extension tubes (aka sanitary spools) that can be placed between that bulkhead & the still heads. Pack them with copper mesh, marbles, saddles, prismatic packing, etc... for your neutral runs. Copper mesh for whiskey runs always a good thing too...
There are threads on here detailing how to hook up a variable voltage regulator to the higher wattage heating coils on the underside of Brewzilla/Digiboil units. But it IS possible to get a controlled run on the existing equip (I've done it). Heat up with both elements on, then just before take-off switch off the higher one (in my 120V that's the 1000W element, leaving 500W on).
Enjoy, explore, & research.
Duck
All that said, I don't see conversion kits for the 65L Robobrew, but they must have them as they sell the 65L DIgiboil unit (basically same as Brewzilla, but less bells & whistles) with both attachments. You can make it modular by using the 2" weldless bulkhead triclamp attachment which fits on the lid hole. Then get some 2" extension tubes (aka sanitary spools) that can be placed between that bulkhead & the still heads. Pack them with copper mesh, marbles, saddles, prismatic packing, etc... for your neutral runs. Copper mesh for whiskey runs always a good thing too...
There are threads on here detailing how to hook up a variable voltage regulator to the higher wattage heating coils on the underside of Brewzilla/Digiboil units. But it IS possible to get a controlled run on the existing equip (I've done it). Heat up with both elements on, then just before take-off switch off the higher one (in my 120V that's the 1000W element, leaving 500W on).
Enjoy, explore, & research.
Duck
There are two times of year: FOOTBALL SEASON and... Waiting For Football Season
-
- Novice
- Posts: 27
- Joined: Mon Mar 15, 2021 5:16 am
Re: Adding still to homebrewing setup
Thank you for the feedback! I’ll continue my research before pulling the trigger. One of the reasons I started looking at NorCal is I have used them for some brewing equipment so I trust the product and company and the other is most of my equipment already has triclover fittings with stainless steel. But I have no problem shopping around and finding a good deal.
Is there an exact part that puts me on a “distiller list” like the condenser or the defleg? Or is it a combination? Most of the other parts can be used in standard homebrewing equipment.1) it helps keep your name off of a “distiller list”,
It comes with copper to put on the sight glass.And if you could get some copper into the stillhead, you’ll be glad you did.
Until last year I built or pieced together my own equipment, but I finally pulled the trigger on the upgraded equipment. When I added in the “cost” of my time, the learning curve, and materials of my projects I found there was a negligible difference in price. I also really liked the convenience and ease of the new equipment.did you make any of your brewing equipment, or did you buy it all?
Re: Adding still to homebrewing setup
It comes with copper to put on the sight glass.And if you could get some copper into the stillhead, you’ll be glad you did.
it says 3ft of copper mesh, that probably wouldn't touch the sides.
for example, i have 9m of copper mesh in 400mm of a 2" column.
-
- Novice
- Posts: 27
- Joined: Mon Mar 15, 2021 5:16 am
Re: Adding still to homebrewing setup
I wouldn’t say I’m hellbent on using it, but I’d rather not buy another boiler and take up more space if I don’t have to.
I’ll definitely check them out, I’m already looking at doing the modification to move the control panel up higher. It frustrates me that they put the damned thing on the bottom. The 65l runs on 220v so it has 3 elements; 2000w,1000w, and 500w. Which is super handy for brewing because I can get 12 gal of wort to a boil in under 30 minutes.
Would it help control the temp of the boil by recirculating the wash in the boil? I recirculate the during mashing and boiling when I’m brewing beer to keep a steady temperature.
I was able to find the 65l lid by itself and it fits both the reflux and pot still heads available from Williams brewing/ more beer etc.All that said, I don't see conversion kits for the 65L Robobrew,
I’ve looked at those, but if I buy 2 different heads I’m already in the $300 range and those don’t seem to be as modular. Plus I’d have to buy the extra connection parts.Each of those conversion kits is in the $150 range. You'll want both types, as stripping runs through just the reflux head is very slow in comparison to the pot head. Plus you can use the pot head to make whiskeys.
There are threads on here detailing how to hook up a variable voltage regulator to the higher wattage heating coils on the underside of Brewzilla/Digiboil units. But it IS possible to get a controlled run on the existing equip (I've done it). Heat up with both elements on, then just before take-off switch off the higher one (in my 120V that's the 1000W element, leaving 500W on).
I’ll definitely check them out, I’m already looking at doing the modification to move the control panel up higher. It frustrates me that they put the damned thing on the bottom. The 65l runs on 220v so it has 3 elements; 2000w,1000w, and 500w. Which is super handy for brewing because I can get 12 gal of wort to a boil in under 30 minutes.
Would it help control the temp of the boil by recirculating the wash in the boil? I recirculate the during mashing and boiling when I’m brewing beer to keep a steady temperature.
Last edited by chapelhouse on Thu Mar 18, 2021 11:11 am, edited 1 time in total.
-
- Novice
- Posts: 27
- Joined: Mon Mar 15, 2021 5:16 am
Re: Adding still to homebrewing setup
I think this design is very close to CCVM. I would just need to make a coil to put in the top of the T instead of the thermometer and add a valve before the condenser. It would also be easy to add length to the column for better reflux.The condenser controlled vapor managed (CCVM) reflux stillhead can be adapted to run neutrals and also be configured as a potstill for stripping and making full flavored spirits. With “modularity, it is very “future-proof”.
The current column 2” in diameter. And I understand 21’ is a very short column, but it has a 6.5” sight glass -> 7” Delphegmator (3 x .49 ID tubes) -> 8” lyne arm. Both the sight glass and lyne arm are each stuffed with 3’ of copper mesh and have perforated disks on the bottom to hold the mesh.
I do have a glycol cooling system would allow me to very precisely control the cooling in the delphlegmator and the condenser. It recirculates and is very efficient. Currently I recirculate sub freezing liquid through a coil in my fermenter and can keep 10 gal of beer at 34°F in a stainless steel fermenter, in my garage, in Texas, during the summer(100° temperatures)
-
- Site Donor
- Posts: 1817
- Joined: Wed Dec 30, 2020 10:17 pm
- Location: Northwest France
Re: Adding still to homebrewing setup
Keeping already cool beer cool requires relatively low energy, even if you have to cool it from room temperature. In a still you are trying to "overcome" the heating element (or gas burner). Given 1500W input (which is not unreasonable for a 2" column I think) you need to be able to knock down all of it, essentially providing 1500W of cooling (if you're just talking about product condensing, you could get away with a little less possibly if you accept warmish product coming out). I would be terribly surprised if your glycol cooler were up to the job.chapelhouse wrote: ↑Thu Mar 18, 2021 9:51 am I do have a glycol cooling system would allow me to very precisely control the cooling in the delphlegmator and the condenser. It recirculates and is very efficient. Currently I recirculate sub freezing liquid through a coil in my fermenter and can keep 10 gal of beer at 34°F in a stainless steel fermenter, in my garage, in Texas, during the summer(100° temperatures)
"I have a potstill that smears like a fresh plowed coon on the highway" - Jimbo
A little spoon feeding *For New & Novice Distillers
A little spoon feeding *For New & Novice Distillers
-
- Novice
- Posts: 27
- Joined: Mon Mar 15, 2021 5:16 am
Re: Adding still to homebrewing setup
Alrighty, back again after more reading.
I’m leaning towards purchasing a still vs making my own because:
-I’m ok with being on a “distillers list” (especially since I’m only going to be distilling water to brew with )
-I know it’s more expensive to pay someone, but I feel their expertise in welding and braising is worth the extra cost.
-I know there will be modifications that will need to be made, but with a modular system i can add on.
I’m really vacillating between mile hi and NorCal, it still open to other suggestions.
https://milehidistilling.com/product/2- ... pro-tower/
https://www.norcalbrewingsolutions.com/ ... x-Kit.html
I would have to modify or add on to either system. I would need to extend the tower on both systems, and definitely add more copper to the NorCal system. With NorCal I would easily be able to add a CCVM coil in the top.
While I have found that NorCal is definitely on the high end of prices, I’m having trouble finding comparable parts at half the price.
Especially when I start looking and comparing the individual parts.
2” x 24” TC at Glacier is $49.35 https://www.glaciertanks.com/tri-clamp- ... 0-024.html
And the same at NorCal is $58.39 https://www.norcalbrewingsolutions.com/ ... Spool.html
Much higher in price, but much more equal in price when I add in the price of shipping when ordering from several different sites.
2”x7’ dephleg 3 .5” inner tubes $89.99 https://www.norcalbrewingsolutions.com/ ... mator.html pretty sure this one would be more efficient.
2” (I think this is just a jacketed 2” tube) $105 https://milehidistilling.com/product/2- ... condenser/
I have looked at:
Still Dragon, Mile Hi, claw hammer, and brewhaus.
And there any other good places to look?
With the setups listed above would I be able to make a decent product and learn the ropes?
With a shorter tower, is the main drawback lack of efficiency and causing the run to take longer?
I’m leaning towards purchasing a still vs making my own because:
-I’m ok with being on a “distillers list” (especially since I’m only going to be distilling water to brew with )
-I know it’s more expensive to pay someone, but I feel their expertise in welding and braising is worth the extra cost.
-I know there will be modifications that will need to be made, but with a modular system i can add on.
I’m really vacillating between mile hi and NorCal, it still open to other suggestions.
https://milehidistilling.com/product/2- ... pro-tower/
https://www.norcalbrewingsolutions.com/ ... x-Kit.html
I would have to modify or add on to either system. I would need to extend the tower on both systems, and definitely add more copper to the NorCal system. With NorCal I would easily be able to add a CCVM coil in the top.
While I have found that NorCal is definitely on the high end of prices, I’m having trouble finding comparable parts at half the price.
Especially when I start looking and comparing the individual parts.
For instance:
2” x 24” TC at Glacier is $49.35 https://www.glaciertanks.com/tri-clamp- ... 0-024.html
And the same at NorCal is $58.39 https://www.norcalbrewingsolutions.com/ ... Spool.html
Much higher in price, but much more equal in price when I add in the price of shipping when ordering from several different sites.
2”x7’ dephleg 3 .5” inner tubes $89.99 https://www.norcalbrewingsolutions.com/ ... mator.html pretty sure this one would be more efficient.
2” (I think this is just a jacketed 2” tube) $105 https://milehidistilling.com/product/2- ... condenser/
I have looked at:
Still Dragon, Mile Hi, claw hammer, and brewhaus.
And there any other good places to look?
With the setups listed above would I be able to make a decent product and learn the ropes?
With a shorter tower, is the main drawback lack of efficiency and causing the run to take longer?
Re: Adding still to homebrewing setup
the Distillex Store stuff i have bought has all been very good quality (so far )
- Saltbush Bill
- Site Mod
- Posts: 9750
- Joined: Thu Mar 17, 2011 2:13 am
- Location: Northern NSW Australia
Re: Adding still to homebrewing setup
Be aware that the mile high pro tower isn't a great reflux design...........home builders stopped making those over 10 years ago because there where more efficient designs.
Mile high and others still make and sell them because they look like a bargain to a newbie.
Mile high and others still make and sell them because they look like a bargain to a newbie.
- Deplorable
- Site Donor
- Posts: 4000
- Joined: Thu Jun 25, 2020 12:10 pm
- Location: In the East, (IYKYK)
Re: Adding still to homebrewing setup
Why not just buy the lid for your boiler, and make a CCVM? You'll be money ahead and learn something while you build it.
Get you 6 feet of 2", a 2X2X2 T, a 2" 90 elbow, a 2"X1/2 reducer, 7 feet of 1/2" copper, and a 10' roll of soft 1/4 inch copper tubing, 11 ferrules, and 7 tri clamps, and you'll have everything you need to build a solid performing modular still from knowledge laid out here in these forums.
Oh, and dont forget the PTFE gaskets.
Get you 6 feet of 2", a 2X2X2 T, a 2" 90 elbow, a 2"X1/2 reducer, 7 feet of 1/2" copper, and a 10' roll of soft 1/4 inch copper tubing, 11 ferrules, and 7 tri clamps, and you'll have everything you need to build a solid performing modular still from knowledge laid out here in these forums.
Oh, and dont forget the PTFE gaskets.
Fear and ridicule are the tactics of weak-minded cowards and tyrants who have no other leadership talent from which to draw in order to persuade.
-
- Novice
- Posts: 27
- Joined: Mon Mar 15, 2021 5:16 am
-
- Novice
- Posts: 27
- Joined: Mon Mar 15, 2021 5:16 am
Re: Adding still to homebrewing setup
Ahh gotcha, then you end up paying more to upgrade or end up scrapping it all together.Saltbush Bill wrote: ↑Mon Mar 29, 2021 7:20 pm Be aware that the mile high pro tower isn't a great reflux design...........home builders stopped making those over 10 years ago because there where more efficient designs.
Mile high and others still make and sell them because they look like a bargain to a newbie.
-
- Novice
- Posts: 27
- Joined: Mon Mar 15, 2021 5:16 am
Re: Adding still to homebrewing setup
One thing I liked about NorCal is it comes with ptfe gaskets.Deplorable wrote: ↑Mon Mar 29, 2021 7:47 pm Why not just buy the lid for your boiler, and make a CCVM? You'll be money ahead and learn something while you build it.
Get you 6 feet of 2", a 2X2X2 T, a 2" 90 elbow, a 2"X1/2 reducer, 7 feet of 1/2" copper, and a 10' roll of soft 1/4 inch copper tubing, 11 ferrules, and 7 tri clamps, and you'll have everything you need to build a solid performing modular still from knowledge laid out here in these forums.
Oh, and dont forget the PTFE gaskets.
I like this idea, especially learning it from the inside out by building, but I’m worried about braising the Cooper to Stainless Steel. And the cost will significantly rise if I screw up a have to replace/redo the work. The cost of silver solder looks pretty high.
Building most of my homebrewing equipment when I started gave me tremendous understanding of the craft, but 12 years in I was able to afford really nice equipment that added a lot of convenience (and it’s really shiny and pretty).
Re: Adding still to homebrewing setup
I am 100% in favor of building what you can but if you live in NorCal you have a great brewing supply store that also carries distilling supplies in NorCal Brewing Solutions.
https://www.norcalbrewingsolutions.com/store/index.html
https://www.norcalbrewingsolutions.com/store/index.html
- rubberduck71
- Site Donor
- Posts: 743
- Joined: Sat May 30, 2020 11:22 am
- Location: Eastern PA
Re: Adding still to homebrewing setup
Chapel, you could "build modularly" starting with that 65L cap & the 2" weldless bulkhead triclamp attachment which fits on the lid hole. From there, it's just spools, dephlags, sight glasses, & so on...
There are two times of year: FOOTBALL SEASON and... Waiting For Football Season
Re: Adding still to homebrewing setup
My info might be outdated, but at the time I read about this (a few years ago) the TTB could request sales records from vendors for sales of complete stills. There is a thread somewhere here about it. "Complete still" could mean a lot of different things. Build what you can in my opinion.chapelhouse wrote: ↑Thu Mar 18, 2021 7:14 am Is there an exact part that puts me on a “distiller list” like the condenser or the defleg? Or is it a combination? Most of the other parts can be used in standard homebrewing equipment.
Plain ole pot rig.
- Twisted Brick
- Master of Distillation
- Posts: 3798
- Joined: Sat Mar 09, 2013 4:54 pm
- Location: Craigh Na Dun
Re: Adding still to homebrewing setup
It's been a few years, but I called a couple/three big distilling shops and spoke to either the owner or a manager. At that time I was informed that the original TTB requirements to make the list were to purchase a column. I was also told that it had been a year that the TTB had followed up on receiving the list, essentially dropping the exercise, presumably because it was too much work for too little reward.chapelhouse wrote: ↑Thu Mar 18, 2021 7:14 am Is there an exact part that puts me on a “distiller list” like the condenser or the defleg? Or is it a combination? Most of the other parts can be used in standard homebrewing equipment.
There's a thread here where I originally reported my discussions. If I search/find it, I'll post a link.
“Always carry a flagon of whiskey in case of snakebite, and furthermore, always carry a small snake.”
- W.C. Fields
My EZ Solder Shotgun
My Steam Rig and Manometer
- W.C. Fields
My EZ Solder Shotgun
My Steam Rig and Manometer
Re: Adding still to homebrewing setup
Alright, we need an update. What did you buy/build?
- Deplorable
- Site Donor
- Posts: 4000
- Joined: Thu Jun 25, 2020 12:10 pm
- Location: In the East, (IYKYK)
Re: Adding still to homebrewing setup
I know the answer, but I'll wait and see if Chapelhouse posts pictures.
Fear and ridicule are the tactics of weak-minded cowards and tyrants who have no other leadership talent from which to draw in order to persuade.
-
- Novice
- Posts: 27
- Joined: Mon Mar 15, 2021 5:16 am
Re: Adding still to homebrewing setup
Update:
Huge thanks to this forum and especially Twisted Brick for building this work of art! The lid on my boiler was a little too weak for this amazing hunk of copper, so I had to fashion a support apparatus. Tomorrow is the cleaning run with vinegar, then the sacrificial run.
Huge thanks to this forum and especially Twisted Brick for building this work of art! The lid on my boiler was a little too weak for this amazing hunk of copper, so I had to fashion a support apparatus. Tomorrow is the cleaning run with vinegar, then the sacrificial run.
-
- Novice
- Posts: 27
- Joined: Mon Mar 15, 2021 5:16 am
Re: Adding still to homebrewing setup
My coil is a little rough, but has good flow through it. I was able to use some of my brewing cam lock fittings for the water connections.
Until I get a good recirculating system I’ll be using my waste water to clean my other equipment and I also have a hose hooked up to a sprinkler for my yard.
-
- Novice
- Posts: 27
- Joined: Mon Mar 15, 2021 5:16 am
Re: Adding still to homebrewing setup
I also have all ptfe gaskets on TC fittings. For the boiler I was able to just wrap the top of boiler with ptfe tape. I also wrapped the silicone gaskets in the TC bulkhead for the lid and the re-circulating pump. (I’m not going to use the pump for distilling, but it does have a silicone gasket in the boiler)
- Twisted Brick
- Master of Distillation
- Posts: 3798
- Joined: Sat Mar 09, 2013 4:54 pm
- Location: Craigh Na Dun
Re: Adding still to homebrewing setup
.
I think your coil will do the job nicely. You might add some scrubbie to aid in condensing, but one other member felt his coil worked better without it.
Looking forward to hearing how she runs!
I think your coil will do the job nicely. You might add some scrubbie to aid in condensing, but one other member felt his coil worked better without it.
Looking forward to hearing how she runs!
“Always carry a flagon of whiskey in case of snakebite, and furthermore, always carry a small snake.”
- W.C. Fields
My EZ Solder Shotgun
My Steam Rig and Manometer
- W.C. Fields
My EZ Solder Shotgun
My Steam Rig and Manometer
- BlueSasquatch
- Site Donor
- Posts: 407
- Joined: Mon Sep 14, 2020 6:00 am
- Location: Midwest
Re: Adding still to homebrewing setup
That's a nice looking shotgun! I am going backwards from you as I am looking to modify a 13.2 gal keg into an electric all-in-one BIAB for beer this fall. Going to be blown away when 5 gallons of wort makes 5 gallons of beer, there is -considerable- reduction in volume through distilling.
"In the silence of the study one can discuss theories, but only in practice one becomes an artist" - Meunier
- rubberduck71
- Site Donor
- Posts: 743
- Joined: Sat May 30, 2020 11:22 am
- Location: Eastern PA
Re: Adding still to homebrewing setup
Yeah, I noticed that also. I added a 36"x2" spool/riser on mine, and when you add in the torque of the water cooling lines at that height, I had to fashion some support via bungee cords onto my basement joists. Works just fine now!chapelhouse wrote: ↑Tue Jul 13, 2021 1:02 am The lid on my boiler was a little too weak for this amazing hunk of copper, so I had to fashion a support apparatus.
That's a great looking mancave-ish set up in the background! Can I stop by???
Duck
There are two times of year: FOOTBALL SEASON and... Waiting For Football Season
-
- Novice
- Posts: 27
- Joined: Mon Mar 15, 2021 5:16 am
Re: Adding still to homebrewing setup
I’ve got a scrubbie for it, just didn’t have it for the picture. I’m going to also try packing the column with scrubbies, but I’ve also got some lavarock coming in that I want to experiment with later.Twisted Brick wrote: ↑Thu Jul 15, 2021 6:46 pm .
I think your coil will do the job nicely. You might add some scrubbie to aid in condensing, but one other member felt his coil worked better without it.
Looking forward to hearing how she runs!